Sonata I45 (LF 2015+) :: Stalls Out And Died
Nov 16, 2016
Strange thing happened today. Sitting at a light today, the car started to stall out and no amount of gas kept it going and it died. Tried restarting twice, it started and stalled again. The third attempt I immediately put it in drive and hit the accelerator and it took off like normal.
Just under 24k miles, absolutely no signs of issues before or after. Had a little under 1/4 tank at the time and it was a cold humid morning after a very rainy day yesterday. Possibly water in the gas or a result of the damp weather? Always use top tier gas and no CEL's or hesitation
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98 Mazda B4000 4.0 4x4
I bought this truck about two months ago and it has been great no problems starts right up and runs like a top. I was installing a 4 channel amp yesterday on and off and the dome light was on all day as the doors would periodically be opened or closed so it never did that cycle of 10 min or whatever when the lights turns off. This is what killed the battery.
I had my neighbor jump me and after a few minutes of charging it started right up and idled for about a minute long enough he left and parked, then it stalled. I started it about another 6 times before the battery died again. Every time it started fine then would idle between 1-10 sec then start to sputter and eventually die. Pressing the accelerator pedal only killed it faster.
I got a new battery today as the other charges so that I could fix it today without missing work again tomorrow. Unfortunately it does the same thing I was hoping that the voltage was just low or the polarity flipped or something on the other battery.
To sum it up the truck never gave previous symptoms just simply ran too low (battery never DIED the lights came on just clicked when starting) on power and now stalls when started which it does immediately no long cranking.
The twist; truck has an aftermarket alarm by Python. Problem is I don't know anything about the alarm or if it comes with an immobilizer. I am in the process of trying to figure this out but need to pull dash or something to find the "brain"? Never had an alarm like this I disconnected the clear square that adjusts the sensitivity hoping that was it but I don't know where or what I assume the brain of the alarm is.
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I have a 2000 accent with 51000 miles on it. Since I bought it I have maybe put 75 miles on. The other day while going uptown to get lunch i was at a stop sign and i went to take off and it died. now all it does is fires for maybe a second and dies i have 50 lbs of pressure at the fuel rail. I dont have a scanner and i cant check it by jumping the pins under the dash because there is no. 15 pin.
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Right Front Seat Stopped Working. It was about 2 months after I got the car or 2 weeks after I had it hardwired for a Police Radar power source. I'm pretty sure it was working after the custom police radar power source. I haven't even used the power source since I'm still waiting for the radar to come. So, I don't think it was that or maybe yes.
I went to my dealer and it was there for about 2 days trying to figure out what went wrong. It turns out the 30 amp fuse blew up or died.
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I bought this 06 GLS 3.3l v6 and owned it a week. 96k miles on it. The car started displaying "random misfire" codes two days before it died. I was on the way to drop it off to a shop to have it looked at then it shut down and would not restart. Got under the hood checked all fuses/relays and everything was fine. I tried turning over and it will not even turn over. Fuel pump does not come on. Thought maybe dead battery but I replaced that after towing it home. Tried with the same result. Removed starter and had it tested at two stores to verify from multiple sources. Starter is good. Left battery in car for two weeks with car off and battery was drained to 0 CCA and 0.9vlts left in it. I troubleshoot with a test light to see if I have something drawing on the battery more than normal. 30amp fuse labeled I/P(B+)2 was causing a draw. What circuit is this and what may be causing my dead in the water symptoms?
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I have an 09 Sonata V6 3.3 W/ 13,000 miles.(yes) While driving ESC & CEL lights come on and car stalls. Pull over and it restarts. May do it one more time, or six times. Dealer gets no codes. They called Hyudai and they said that the ABS control module is not communicating and that why no codes. No ABS light on ever. Cost is 2,300 parts & labor! A lot of people have ESC & CEL lights come on but car doesn't stall.
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I was at a stop light. The light turned green and I let off the brake. Just then the car died while I was in drive. I couldn't put it in park. I was a little panicky. It broke down on a major road in morning traffic. I tried starting the car. Nothing. I think I managed to move the shifter into neutral and tried starting the car again. Not a problem this time. Maybe a few minutes had lapsed. It bothers me of course because I've only made 4 payments on it and I'm planning on a trip out of town this weekend. After I dropped my son off I made it home without incident. What caused this?
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I drove my 2012 Sonata GLS to work, when I left work the car lit up for a split second and then died. I thought the battery was the problem, swapped it out with a new one, nothing. Main fuse is good and all the fuses in the engine compartment are fine. Oddly the interior fuse box is not receiving power at all. Multi-meter shows life in the battery and engine fuses. There are no working lights of any kind, nothing happens when I turn the key, Key FOB not working, the whole nine yards.
The car has 63,000 miles on it, I purchased it 4 months ago from a dealership, declining bumper to bumper warranty. My sales rep and the warranty manager reassured me the 5 year, 100k powertrain would be transferred to me, and it wasn't. I'm currently fighting with the dealership over them covering it, but that's a whole other story.
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I've been driving this Sonata 2015 Limited and while going very light on the pedal in eco mode it is barely hitting 18 to 20mpg. I find that very odd, and presume something is either calculating wrong or the car has an issue.
2015 limited
Eco Mode
2.4l engine
City driving but very soft on the pedal.
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Seeing issues with A/C not getting cold? I thought it felt a little warmer than it should, and then my wife got in my car and instantly called it out, and now it is pretty close to room temp. air....Could it be low pressure in the lines? Or the fluid itself (freeon...? =s) ?
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Here is a quick video I shot the other day. This is the second time this has happened where the Cruise just won't engage. There is no error showing other than the message that comes up when I try to engage the cruise (Cruise on, press switch to the bottom to set.)
I've seen this same error if I try to Resume speed without having previously set the speed, but this was not the Resume being selected, but the Set.
[URL] .....
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I just had a lower balljoint repaired on my 2006 hyundai Sonata. After 1 day, the battery dies. Had it jump started last night, and it's dead again this AM.
Could this at all be related to the ball joint repair? They don't seem related but it also seems like an odd coincidence since there were no other recent issues with my car. Thoughts?
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2006 Sonata GLS 3.3L v6 ... Vehicle has 192,000 miles and generally runs well but has started stalling out on the highway. Seems like it stalls more when turning on an exit ramp or after going over a rough spot or pothole on the road but not always. Not sure if anything in particular leads up to it. The car stalls, the power steering and brakes become unresponsive, all the dashboard lights come on, and I have to pull over and stop completely to try restarting. Usually starts right back up but sometimes it takes several tries. Took it to AAA auto care but since they couldn't recreate the problem, they weren't able to identify the issue. They did say that their diagnostic equipment was unable to access/communicate with the on-board computer for the engine if that makes any sense.
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2016 Hyundai Sonata SE
6000 miles, 3 months old
2.4 GDI engine, auto trans
Variable-Displacement Compressor (no clutch, anyway, so that's what I'm assuming)
Is it OKAY to drive the car without refrigerant to circulate lubricating oil, or am I going to be looking at a new compressor in a few years?
A week ago, a grasshopper put a hole in the condenser. Yes, a friggen BUG, complete with bug guts and wings stuck around the tiny dent and pinhole. I'm arguing with Hyundai over the warranty coverage, they say "outside forces" and I'm saying "defective part or crappy engineering"...
The dealer's service writer said there would be no problem driving the car while we wait for parts, as long as we didn't turn the AC on. Okay, it's not summer anymore, but doesn't the compressor want to be on in DEFROST setting? Supposedly the system won't try and turn on the compressor if it's low on charge, but...being a variable displacement compressor with no clutch...
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I bought some new bulbs for the headlights and tried to install them today. I couldn't get the bulb to come out. The manual doesn't really show how to get it out. I know how to take the wire out and that;s about it. How to take the headlight out.
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In the clock settings, GPS is on, Daylight Savings Time is on, but the time is incorrect. The only way to set the clock is to turn GPS off and then you can set the clock manually.
If the GPS is working properly in these cars, certainly the clock should be set correctly. Why this is happening.
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Has felt what seems to be a potential sticking gas pedal? When I floor the gas it clicks and almost feels like it wants to catch or snag. It hasn't yet but just curious.
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So I noticed that my interior lights do not come on at all when I unlock the car, stop the car, turn it off, etc. If I push the map lamps directly they come on and stay on but don't shut off when driving. I have the front door lamp set on the in and out positions but nothing makes the interior lights come on unless I push the map lamps or the front room lamp button. Am I missing something here? Or is it possible the front door lamp switch is not working?
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Trunk not open all the way when using the button on the remote, inside the car, or the smart sensor? It is pretty useless if your hands are full and the trunk opens a few inches and you still have to manually open it the rest of the way.
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I was driving my car on Sunday and twice within a span of 30-45 minutes the car stalled while I was driving and just shut off. I had driven 70-80 miles earlier in the day without stopping, and after about an hour, went back out to run some errands. After a light turned green, I proceeded through the intersection and made it halfway before the car stalled. Luckily, it was on an incline and I was able to coast to a parking lot out of the way of traffic. I tried to immediately restart the car, but the engine would attempt to start, but not fire, like the alternator was faulty.
After waiting 10 minutes, the car started up, and I immediately tried to make it to an auto part store. I made it about 10 minutes down the road and the car stalled again in front of the auto part store. They came out to check the battery, alternator, and started, and said all were fine and they were not showing any issues from their test. After waiting another 10 minutes, the car started up and I was able to make it home.
I dropped the car off at the local dealer on Monday and was told they are not able to replicate the problem, and the computer is not showing any codes, so they are not sure on what to do or fix.
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MY 2011 Sonata has 84K miles. Last couple of months, I've noticed it engine jerks / hesitates / stalls when going from 40 mph to 60 mph. Once it reaches 60 mph I can go 70mph or higher without any problem. I've made several visits to dealership without any success. First, they diagnosed as bad oxygen sensor and bad spark plugs. The problem did not go away after replacing both. According to them it does not give any error code. Now they're asking to perform fuel cleaning service. I feel they're shooting in the dark. Does it sounds like problem with the automatic transmission i.e problem shifting into higher gear.
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