Sonata I45 (LF 2015+) :: Smart Cruise Control Not Slowing Down Early Enough For A Stopped Car Ahead?
Aug 2, 2015
I love the car and SCC is one of my favorite features. I've had good experience with the SCC most of the time - if car in front of me is moving and then stops, it reacts well. (Also was pleased to learn I can resume SCC from a stop by just tapping the accelerator, no need to hit resume like the LCD screen implies).
However, the one situation is when I'm going like 55mph, and up ahead there's a car stopped completely. I'll see a thing on the dash that the SCC recognizes there's a car ahead, but it won't hit the breaks till the last minute. Truthfully, I end up hitting the brakes myself in most of these situations.
I've got the longest distance selected (though i've tried it with short following distance too) and my car is a Limited 2.4 GDI.
SCC stops fine if slower car ahead stops. Seems a little risky when car ahead is already stopped (waits till the last second for brakes?).
I've also tried changing the setting for cruise control response from "normal" to "fast"...maybe i'll try "slow?"
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I have been using ACC a lot during my daily commute, it's really an effortless way to drive the car on a daily basis.
One of the issues I have been running into with it is that sometimes when the car in front (recognized by radar) accelerates and immediately decelerates to a quick stop my Sonata's ACC does not react and apply the brakes fast enough. The car will basically apply some braking power (~50%) while very quickly approaching the car in front, all the while triggering the rapid beeping of the Collision Detection system. Everytime this happens I have always had to manually intervene and apply the necessary braking power to stop short of hitting the car in front. This is pretty ridiculous to me since if the car KNOWS that it will crash without additional braking, and has the ability to apply the brakes, why doesn't it do so properly?
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The cruise control on my 2013 works as I expected.
However the cruise control on my 2016 Sonata does not.
When driving at highway speeds (65 to 70 mph) in cruise control and the shifter set on "D" (drive) the transmission will down shift to 4th speed whenever I go down hill.
This might be intentional as a way to keep the car from exceeding the set speed, but I have never heard of this and it would seem to place more wear an tear on the transmissions.
Do the down shifting is engineered in or if it is a service problem that I need to have addressed...
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I've been noticing this in the past week, when I'm driving about at around 5pm, the headlight would turn on if I leave the stalk on AUTO. Except it's BRIGHT daylight! Sure it's the beginning of sunset and the sun was to my side, but the amount of light is still extremely high. I see no visible difference between it and driving at noon in terms of the amount of light on the road.
Turning the lights off and on again doesn't work...The low beam does not come on when driving in the morning around 8 or noon, only in the afternoon. Even if the sunlight was shining right on the dashboard, the low beam would still be on in the afternoon.
Makes me wonder if this is a sensor calibration issue( I have nothing covering the sensor) or if it's like this by design. Making the headlight turning on extremely early so that Hyundai doesn't get sued by someone because the light "came on too late" and caused an accident. This is extremely annoying as it uses extra power to run the lights unnecessarily, and not to mention shortening the life of the bulbs. My current work around is just turning on the parking lights...sure the tail are still going to be illuminated, but better than the low beam at least.
I do want to keep the DRL on, but there is no "DRL on" option on the stalk, only "DRL off" to shut everything off. If I want DRL, but not automatic headlight, there is no way to do it, except turning on the parking lights instead.
I don't recall this issue on other brand vehicles I have owned...and about 95% of the vehicle I see coming the other way, under the same lighting condition, is running on DRL only(Assuming they have Auto headlights). What's the trigger condition for the low beam for hyundai..?
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The problem is that it appears the torque converter is locking up so early even right after getting into second gear at speeds between 20km/h and 40km/h. This causes shuddering/rattling coming from under the hood. If I am not mistaken a torque converter should lock up at speeds 80km/h+. I've never seen this behavior on any car before. I'm not sure what kind of damage is being done either by all this shuddering and rattling going on with the transmission. I feel that this should be something that needs to be addressed via some software update. Is there any software update in regards to this issue?
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I have had my 8 month old Prius for a week. I have used cruise control fine before and after the incident. All of a sudden we started slowing down. Doing any thing on the cruise control had no effect. I canceled it. But every time I pressed the accelerator I just got the amber warning light come up and the car beeped at me and no acceleration. The cruise control didn't get the car going either. I had to stop on the motorway. Put the car into park then put it into drive and drove off fine and the car has worked fine since.
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My college son's 2014 Charger V6 has developed three issues since he purchased it used in late May. The cruise control has stopped working and the anti lock brake and traction control lights are constantly on. Any possible cause?
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I'm kind of up against the clock. I am sure this answer is in a book in the car. But that book looked pretty thick.
My husband just told me that he did not want to take my car to the ball game because he can't stand the cruise control turning off every time it gets even close to a car (yes, I understand what this may mean, but I'm not driving with him and he is a grown man).
Is there a way to disengage the automatic turn off on the safety cruise control feature? He likes to be the one in control I suppose.
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I just got a new 2015 Prius C Three and have been reading up as much as possible. I wanted to know if using cruise control would give me better MPG. If it's just a matter of 3/4 mpg difference, then I would use the cruise control to rest my feet. But if its a big difference, then I would avoid cruise control.
My daily commute from Germantown, MD to Alexandria Va and back is about 40 miles each way: total 80 miles. 90% of that highway on I-270 and I-495. I leave after morning rush hour and again drive back after evening rush hour.
Last couple of trips without cruise I have been getting around 50~52mpg.
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My 2002 Santa FE's cruise control has stopped working, light comes on but no hold or anything, any obvious faults they have that I can try. I checked the fuse, that's OK...
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The cruise control stopped working. The "Cruise" light comes on, but the speed does not hold.Where should I start looking? Where is the control module?
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On my 2002 Kia sedona mini van my CC has stopped working. How do they work and what should I look at as reasons why it just stopped? I just had all the belts replaced and crank shaft sensor replaced, could any of that have played a role?
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My cruise control all of a sudden stopped working today.
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Never had any issues with it before and was working fine on a trip a couple of weeks ago. On the way home I had it on, we stopped to get some food, and then when we started up again cruise control wouldn't turn on at all. I tried turning on and then setting, but nothing happened so I don't think it's the light. Checked the fuse and it looks fine (no noticeable distortion or break to the wire anyway) and brake lights all work.
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Is there a way to resume cruise control once it is stopped by braking or hitting the cruise button? My other vehicle saves it so that it can be resumed but I don't see this option in the Azera and have to set it up again every time.
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I have a 2004 Santa Fe GLS that the cruise control just stopped working. It will not turn on when I press the ON button. Could it be a blown fuse? I recently had a new AC compressor installed. Could it be related to that? Maybe something didn't get plugged back in?
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I have a 2003 F150 4x4. One day my cruise control was working fine and the next it wouldn't work at all. When I push the set button the little green light in the dash blinks on then off and the cruise won't set. Any way that I can check to see what it might be myself or am I going to have to pay a dealer to fix it?
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One day it work and the next day it didn't. I checked the 15a fuse and it was good. What else should I be looking at?
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My wife and I are on a 2400 mile cross country road trip road trip and we just got a check engine light about 12 hours away from home. The check engine light, VSC, and tons of other lights appeared. Shortly after our cruise control disengaged and then A/C stopped blowing cold air. We were cruising along in 100F degree weather at about 75-80mph climbing a 10-mile incline with the AC on full blast.
We got to a Toyota dealership but they are closed until Monday so we'd have to wait 2 days for them to check it out. We went to pep boys and they found the code to be "Drive Motor B" which they said should be fixed by Toyota dealership (but he said he didn't really know what the issue is).
I did a quick search and found this might be the inverter coolant pump. Like another poster, I found the car seems to work okay when the AC is off.
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I have a 1991 740 Wagon with ~153,000 miles. I say approximately, because the speedometer, the odometer, and cruise control stopped working. My mechanic says it is the sensor loctated on the differential, I believe he said.
2 questions: My local Volvo junkyard has gone out of business; where is a good place online to get used parts? and second, .is sensor difficult to replace? I can fix things that are easy.
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Cruise control and right/left brake lights have stopped working. Upper brake light still works.
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