Sonata I45 (LF 2015+) :: Shuddering When Downshift At Low Speeds
Nov 9, 2015
Is it normal for the car to shudder when downshifting at low speeds. I have had the computer "reset" once before when this happened and the dealer said I needed to drive more aggressively so the computer would "learn" my driving habits. I honestly am more interested in good gas mileage, so consequently I do not blast off from stops. Service manager said I needed to push it a little harder. Is this BS or is there some software adjustment that the dealer can make?
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So the problem is that I have a jerky downshift 3-2 and 2-1 that can be felt by everyone in the car (car pushes forward on downshift) until the car warms up. When the car is warm I can feel it slightly at times and feel a clunk when shifting down 3-2 and 2-1. On up-shifts at times the shifts are shaky from 1-2 and 2-3. I have brought this forward to my dealership as well as another one. They all performed software updates and reset the adaptive learning. However every time I got my vehicle back after this procedure I found the A/C was on full blast. So the initial drive by the tech after the reset was learning while the A/C was on. Would this be causing the weird shifting I experience while the A/C is off. I seem to notice a better shifting when the A/C is on but this may just be me trying to reason why my transmission is behaving this way. I drove other 2015 Sonata's and they have much better shifting than my car and no hard jerks on downshifts.
Both dealers have felt the downshifts and have come back and simply said "We've done all the updates and reset and learning. This may just be a normal characteristic of the car." I told them that a brand new vehicle in this day and age shouldn't be shifting poorly when compared to an older vehicle with 300,000 km (my old Honda Civic which are prone to transmission failures). They responded casually saying you can go and get a second opinion from another dealership if you like. I am furious with their responses and just left it at that. I need to know how to get this resolved and if this is indeed something I should expect from my Sonata.
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The problem is that it appears the torque converter is locking up so early even right after getting into second gear at speeds between 20km/h and 40km/h. This causes shuddering/rattling coming from under the hood. If I am not mistaken a torque converter should lock up at speeds 80km/h+. I've never seen this behavior on any car before. I'm not sure what kind of damage is being done either by all this shuddering and rattling going on with the transmission. I feel that this should be something that needs to be addressed via some software update. Is there any software update in regards to this issue?
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The cruise control on my 2013 works as I expected.
However the cruise control on my 2016 Sonata does not.
When driving at highway speeds (65 to 70 mph) in cruise control and the shifter set on "D" (drive) the transmission will down shift to 4th speed whenever I go down hill.
This might be intentional as a way to keep the car from exceeding the set speed, but I have never heard of this and it would seem to place more wear an tear on the transmissions.
Do the down shifting is engineered in or if it is a service problem that I need to have addressed...
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So about 5 months ago I started feeling vibrations in my seat and steering wheel. I got my tires road force balanced and it solved the issue. I just got back from a weeks long vacation in Maine. Before I left I had the tires road force balanced again to ensure a smooth ride up. I left some shaking in my seat so I wanted to get it ironed out.
While driving up my seat and the entire cabin shook when I exceeded 70 MPH, it got worse and worse the faster I went. The steering wheel didn't shake at all. I figured the tech balancing the tires did a bad job so I visited the BJ's in Portland. They re-balanced all my tires, I was present when the job was being done and noticed they were all out of balance.
The BJ's tech said it look like the shop that did the balancing over balanced each wheel (too much weight on each wheel). As soon as I hit the highway the same thing happened, shaking above 70MPH. At this point I determined it was probably a bent wheel. I visited a local wheel repair shop, they checked out both my rear wheels, since the steering wheel wasn't shaking I didn't bother checking the front ones.
It turns out both rear wheels are ever so slightly bent, they attempted the straighten out the more bent one. They tech repairing the wheel said he was surprised I even felt anything at all. So I had my hopes up that the problem would be fixed but as soon as I hit the road the same shaking returned. At this point, what's wrong with my car. I'm thinking of buying 4 new wheels, the car came from the factory with low profile 18 inch wheels which have been a curse.
A few more details about my car:
Toyo Proxes 4 Plus - Ultra high performance tires (Maybe contribute to harsh ride?) 20K miles on them
Installed thicker 20mm rear sway bar 6 months ago (But I never had shaking until now)
Installed front tower strut bar 6 months ago.
Total mileage 32K
I have hit lots of pot holes the past 2 winters lost 2 OEM tires and bent 1 wheel last year which was repaired.
Also I can't drive through it, the shaking doesn't stop with more speed it only gets worse. And the back end has started to feel squirrely over bumps.
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Our 05 Monterey has this problem at around 45-50mph speeds. At this speed when we step on gas the we feel the vibrations of slow jerking like misfiring and some rough driving experience. This does not occur when cruising around 60/70mph. But if you have to brake and the speed drops below 45, then while accelerating the above problem is experienced. The car also does not accelerate fast enough. The car has around 110k on it. What kind of maintenance does this need? Is it very serious and need repairs right away? It was not a daily driver car, but now has become one (30 miles) for work.
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I have a 2005 Toyota Corolla XRS with a manual transmission which has developed a shudder. When this shudder started, it only occurred when accelerating at highway speeds, or maintaining highway speeds. Now it happens at lower speeds if I give it gas without downshifting, but at reasonable RPM, 3000-5000. I cannot feel the shudder in the steering wheel, but the whole car shakes, and it definitely feels like it is coming from the front end. I have had the tires balanced and rotated. I also have replaced the IACV and MAF due to a CEL. These were replaced after the shudder started. For a few days after the replacement, the CEL returned, but now I am no longer getting it.
There are no visibly obvious issues with the suspension or the drive shafts or CV joints, and the motor mounts likewise look okay. I am not getting a CEL of any kind, and I replaced my plugs 6 months ago, but I pulled them anyway, and they are not fouled. I don’t think the issue is in my suspension, steering, or wheels because I cannot feel it in the steering wheel. I don’t think my half shafts are warped because the shudder happens at varying speeds, and the instant I let off of the gas, it stops. Though this doesn’t rule them out completely, there is no clicking from the CV joints. When I brake, the car slows smoothly, so the rotors are fine. I have run injector cleaner a couple of times, and octane boost once. These both seemed to solve the issue, but did not make it stop, and it has gotten worse lately. My wife did put low-octane gas in the car once, but it was weeks ago.
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So I've had my B6 7 months now with no major problems (other than a blown head light bulb, which was repaired under warranty) - until now....
So when I'm decelerating from higher speeds (55mph +)...say for a stop light or to turn....around 30mph....my car occasionally shifts down hard. Not enough to make me stop driving and call a tow truck but definitely enough to make me to notice.
It's only when shifting down and it's just started in the past month or so. Before that the car has performed beautifully...shifting like silk. My car is a 2007, auto 2.0T with almost 20k (had 4k when I bought it). It happens when I decel slow or have to stop real fast. It seems like there's no rhyme or reason to it.
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I have a 2007 Honda Element. When I am driving at slower speeds (<20mph) and turn sharply the vehicle shudders very hard. What is causing this?
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My truck is fairly new. Its a 2015 Ford F350 with 6000 Miles. I live on the east coast in a 4 seasons climate. Its summer the average temp. is in the lower 90's. Recently, I have noticed that my truck has been shuddering and shaking between 5th & 6th gear.
It started when I was changing lanes; I tried to accelerate going about 45mph, and shuddering real hard. It was difficult to maintain my speed on a level surface. It was almost a total loss of power with no trouble codes.
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My 2004 V8 egg is currently at 111,000 miles and I'm starting to have problems that are really cause for concern. Since the blue book value on the Touareg is worthless and I've got it paid off, I might as well keep it until the wheels fall off of it. Anyhow, on to the problem at hand ...
When driving on the interstate at high speed somewhere around 80 - 90 mph and you push the accelerator to get that extra bit of speed out of the downshift so you can pass or just for the heck of it, the transmission starts clunking, LOUDLY, which of course causes you to let your foot off the gas. The clunking continues for about 5 - 10 seconds until the car has slowed down a bit.
I can still get the car up to speeds of around 110 mph (my wife tried it just about 15 minutes ago on our way back from Florida), but it has to be done gradually as to keep the transmission from downshifting.
Around town the car responds fine. Occasionally it will have a hard shift, but I can't find a reason or pattern to that. Fifth gear also works fine in city traffic, I've used tiptronic to keep it in 5th and I've also watched the main display change from D4 to D5 to D6 and back again without incident.
I'm too afraid to take the car up to 90 and then engage tiptronic and downshift to 5th. This transmission has had its fair share of problems. I'm on my third stepper motor, the forward transmission seal had to be replaced and then later the hydraulic pump had to be replaced. There are no noticeable fluid stains on the belly pans and there are no stains on my garage floor, so I doubt its leaking fluid. Can you even check the transmission fluid level in this thing?
Other than the transmission problem, the Touareg is behaving fairly well. (Knock on wood) It still rides nice and I've learned to put up with the little electrical anomalies that happen like the blue strobe backlight compass (it's just dancing along with the music) and the lights switching ON in full daylight (with the euro switch installed).
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2002 Ford Escape. My car was sitting for a week in cold weather. I started it yesterday with no problem, but only waited for a minute or two before driving. I was driving at city speeds, and heard a knock. I was accelerating up a hill and it hesitated/ jerked once or twice. The check engine light came on, and now it knocks every few seconds when I am stopped at a light. It also doesn't seem to catch the highest gear (5?) when it shifts, making a constant knocking sound and vibrating. Letting go of the gas or accelerating so it shifts back down makes the noise go away. In other gears it seems fine, with an occasional jump... It is an Automatic V6. I am taking the car in Monday, but I would like to know possible causes.
This morning I let my car warm up for 40 minutes (15 minutes in park and 25 idling at the bus stop). The problem was no better. By knock I meant it feels like someone bumped the engine. My foot vibrates on the brake for a second. And when it changes into the highest gear, it shudders ( until I release or further press the gas pedal. The revs don't change while it is shuddering or knocking.
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Have a 2001 Corolla with 150k miles on it. It isn't straight up dying, but it is shuddering when driving at slower speeds or while stopped at a stop light. Have had the air intake looked at so that shouldn't be it. Sometimes the lights on the dash will dim when this happens but not sure if it might be a battery issue or that is just happening because the car is dying.
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2015 F-350 diesel purchased Sept 2104. When towing my 16,000 lb 5th wheel the 6 to 5 downshift seems to have gotten much harsher in the last few months. About 10,000 miles on the truck, much of it towing. Is this an indication of a developing problem?
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Recently my F350 has failed to downshift when the accelerator pedal is pressed to the floor to speed up in traffic. It will usually happen when traveling at speeds in the 30's-40's. It will shift quickly at slower speeds. I have a scan guage on it all the time and it is not throwing any codes.
The transmission has only been serviced by the dealer; last done about 24000 miles ago. No leaks or low fluids/no burned smells. Stock setup with no heavy towing use. Currently at 228000+ miles, this is the first issue with the transmission assuming I am looking at the right area for the cause.
2005 F350 XLT 4WD
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My 2010, 4 cyl. auto started giving me hard downshifts awhile ago, when cold. Mainly going from 4 to 3, and 3 to 2. I had the tranny fluid changed a few months ago at 56,000 miles, but no difference. So, that left me with the dealer and this is their diagnosis:
Updated ECM and TCM and hard shift still present. Vehicle will require new PCM (TCM?) to resolve problem.
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2011 Sonata Limited ... I have just under 60k miles and did a tranny drain and refill at 24k and 55k. Just had the brake light switch replaced. For some reason when cruising with the car in overdrive, if I let off the gas to decelerate and ease into the gas again, I get a real hard down shift and shift. So every time I get on the gas again it is either kicking out of overdrive or downshifting and shifting back immediately. 99% of the time it is a hard thump. When I have the cruise set I do not notice this at all. It does it in ECO or out of ECO. This is new and I started noticing this after the brake switch replacement.
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My car also had the hard downshift when engine was cold and under 30mph. I seen where Sbr 711 had posted the TSB 10-AT-007-1
I printed this and took to the local dealer & also showed where it was mentioned as a recall.. The advisor looked up on his computer and showed no recalls for the 09 sonata?
I went ahead and scheduled the reprogram update and was told the technician can pull up more info on recalls than the advisor can? Any way they did the reprogram today and $89. later still no recall? How do I prove that in fact this is a recall & get refunded?
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My 09' has developed the abrupt downshift issue at 20 mph when cold. Once the transmission is warmed up, the problem goes away. There is a Service Bulletin on this problem so it is known and a fix is in place. The fix according to the Service Instruction is to remap the transmission software.
How this remap affected their vehicle. My car has been returning great gas mileage, and I am concerned that this fix could hurt that. If mileage is adversely affected, I'd rather live with the downshift IF it won't hurt anything.
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My 09 Sonata GLS has 50k miles on it. I bought it as a demo model with 9k on it (regret that) as new ... who knows how it was treated.
at 40k miles I noticed that in the morning when I was braking the car would feel like it was slipping out of gear momentarily and it was pretty rough. After a few minutes it would stop and I could continue on my way. The car is an automatic. I noticed it if I let the car decelerate enough that it dropped into first on its own, or if I used the brakes. I figured it must be due to the cold weather or something and was hoping it would clear up. This was only happening after 8 hours of non-use, overnight in the cold.
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I just bought a 2009 Hyunda Sonata, 4 cylinder limited edition with 82k miles on it about a month ago. It was maintained to the suggested maintenance schedule by Hyundai dealers prior to me owning it.
after about 2 weeks, it started having issues when slowing down. I narrowed it down to being a harsh downshift from 4th to 3rd when breaking when cold. After driving for 10 minutes it doesn't do it anymore.
My temporary fix is to manually downshift it into 3rd when I have to slow down. It seems to be that it stays in 4th too long and shifts late into 3rd, but I wouldn't think downshifting late would really matter.
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