Sonata I45 (LF 2015+) :: Shifter Has Been Acting Odd Recently / Restrictive
Feb 3, 2016
Any shifter that occasionally firms up in its movement? Mine has been acting odd recently. Sometimes it shifts normal; smooth and light as butter. Sometimes it's shifting action gets real restrictive, feeling as if I'm trying to guide a rod through some very thick molasses. One morning, it briefly refused to shift out of park and then felt real stiff between gates, but by the time I got to my destination it was sliding smoothly between gates with a mere fingertip. Frankly, I'm baffled as just as quickly as the stiff very restricted feeling starts, it will return back to normal. My original thought was a failing shift lock release, but I would think it would just refuse to move at all, rather than just firm up. 14k on my Eco.
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I have a 2015 is350 f sport. I don't know if this is normal, but my shift knob is very loose. I can literally take my thumb and pointer finger and turn it either way with almost any pressure. When I turn it, the leather seems to be attached, and turns with the shifter when I turn it to the right to tighten it.
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2015 F-250 4X4 CC gas truck. 6R140 Transmission..
My truck has 6500 miles on it and since day one when I put my shifter in (D) there is a 3-4 sec delay in the transmission to engage every morning when I start out, rest of the time there is no delay even when the truck sits all day at work (about 9 hours). I have read in 2011 (?) that the transmission was loosening it's prime and would cause this problem, so how it's got me thinking.
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OK, I recently noticed a fairly loud clicking noise coming from the transmission (or the gear lever?) when you hit the brakes and again when you release them (only when at or near standstill). I'm pretty sure that it's the lock for the transmission so you can't start it without hitting the brake, etc., but I never heard it before. Should it be that loud? At first I thought it was my CD's in the console hitting the side when I was braking, but realized it does it when standing still and you can feel it in the shift lever. Maybe I'm overly paranoid, but I've never noticed this in any other car.
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Well just as stated above...basically when I put my brakes on, my shifter will refuse to go from Park to Reverse. I have to open the little "Shift lock" cap and manually press that button to be able to go to reverse...or sometimes back from D to P. It just started doing this a week ago.
2006 Sonata
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I have a 2006 Hyundai Sonata, 2.4, 4-cyl automatic. While pulling into a parking space, the driver in the vehicle next to me threw her door open. I braked quickly (but did not slam on the brakes) to avoid hitting the door then continued into the space after she closed her door. I then tried to put my car in reverse to re-position it in the parking slot. The shifter on the console would not go into REVERSE and obviously not into PARK since PARK on the shifter is above REVERSE. The shifter will go into both DRIVE and NEUTRAL. I now have a car that will go only forward. Also, I cannot remove the key from the ignition switch since the shifter will not go into PARK. I've not had a problem like this with this or any car before.
I also noticed that my ABS/ESC has been coming on more frequently and staying on and I attributed that to a bad sensor since my brakes are in good shape and I have not had to rely on the ABS system. I don't believe that the ABS/ESC warning light and the shifter problem are connected but I'm not totally sure. Why my shifter won't go into REVERSE or PARK????
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I have a 09' 4cyl automatic engine with 54k.
About 30min ago when when I parked the shifter would not move past neutral into reverse and go into park. I can go from D into neutral or the next slot over for manual shifting. Naturally this causes a problem as you can't take the key out of the ignition if its not in park.
I took a screw driver and popped open the cap for the shift release button and used that to move it into park. Turned car off, back on, etc etc seemed fine. So when I tried moving it into reverse and it wouldn't budge. It instead would make a electronic click or snap coming form the steering column but more back toward the engine. Like more into the dash area but back in it. It would make this noise every time I attempted to move it but it wasn't a continuous sound. Just once with each jerk to the side to move it out of park.
So the car works fine except for this. I used it with the screw driver/shift release to unlock it and it drives fine. Goes into reverse and back in park but if I move it into neutral or drive it will not go back into reverse or park.
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recently the remote locking buttons have been acting weird. The locking system itself may be to blame but let me elaborate. Lately I've been trying to lock the car with the remote, but sometimes it will beep once, lock the car, then immediately unlock it. This will repeat if I try it over again. If the car is locked, the remote at times will not unlock the car and twice I've had to manually unlock it.
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My turbo is acting up intermitently, seems to work, then not work, then work again, while on the highway and without a restart that would reset anything. I get a CEL too, mechanic thinks its my actuator, says you can't buy one from VW, best to look for a used turbo.
The car has 270,000KM, I bought it new, it has an Upsolute chip since new.
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In my new to me 05 B5 we have a problem with the turn signals. When turning right the signal works fine but once you return straight and the lever returns to center the relay or something in the center console continues to cycle for 2-4 cycles afterwards. Also, if on cruise, and you activate the left turn to pass, it kicks off the cruise. I suspect it's either the lever or the slip ring on the column (if it has one like my 96 Passat).
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my 06 gs 430 with roughly 55k and driven 1-2 times a week, if that, has an issue. While moving my car today my front sonar was indicating as if something was in front of it. Not sure why this is happening because everything is fine on the bumper. Is there anything I can do to resolve this issue?
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I have a 92 Celica ST 1.6L 5 speed with 175,000 miles on it. When should I consider getting the timing belt changed?
Also, several months ago the engine started acting up while I was on a long road trip, suddenly anytime I tried to accelerate the engine started sputtering / acting like is misfiring.. It got progressively worse during the trip, so I pulled over and to my surprise there was a significant amount of oil in one of the spark plug 'wells'. After soaking the oil up with a rag and cleaning the spark plug cable/connector the problem has only occurred one time since, and not nearly as much oil was present. It sound like I just need new spark plug cables.
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I'm wondering if the Fram Toughgard filter is the culprit. First time I'm using this brand. I know this car has had noisy lifter before, but it was all gone for a while, and mysteriously came back after the oil change. It's not the fluid level, which is fine. It should be noted that the lifter noise doesn't happen until the engine is warm and has been taken up to highway speeds.
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Well, two years after I replaced the pump bearing and the power steering is acting up like the belt is slipping. Sometimes it works fine, sometimes the steering gets jerky and hard.
The fluid level was fine, but I changed out the old stuff anyway, the belt is fine and not loose. I also pulled the pump apart to inspect it and it still looks as good as new.
When it acts up at a stop, it will squeal, but like I said, the belt is not loose. It's almost as if the rack is bottoming out against the bump stop (it's not) or the valve that lets excess pressure is dumping pressure randomly.
I took the valve apart with the pump and it looks fine, no scratches. Do the rack or valve go bad? If so, what was that like and could my rack have a seal leaking inside?
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My 2004 Santa fe speedometer is acting erratic almost all of the time , sometimes it works right. I have replaced on sensor that is easy to get too, right below the air filter and the other is below the cable, but the hard part is that in order to remove the 2 bolts holding the cable in place part of the frame or steering apparatus is partially blocking the bolt where a socket will not fit over...
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I've been driving this Sonata 2015 Limited and while going very light on the pedal in eco mode it is barely hitting 18 to 20mpg. I find that very odd, and presume something is either calculating wrong or the car has an issue.
2015 limited
Eco Mode
2.4l engine
City driving but very soft on the pedal.
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Seeing issues with A/C not getting cold? I thought it felt a little warmer than it should, and then my wife got in my car and instantly called it out, and now it is pretty close to room temp. air....Could it be low pressure in the lines? Or the fluid itself (freeon...? =s) ?
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Here is a quick video I shot the other day. This is the second time this has happened where the Cruise just won't engage. There is no error showing other than the message that comes up when I try to engage the cruise (Cruise on, press switch to the bottom to set.)
I've seen this same error if I try to Resume speed without having previously set the speed, but this was not the Resume being selected, but the Set.
[URL] .....
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Recently my clutch started acting strange, the pedal felt softer and eventually after I pressed it in it stayed on the floor. After pumping it, everything went back to normal. Next day, still same thing, no pressure in the clutch pedal. I checked the brake fluid and it's full. There is also no sign of any leak. Took the car to the mechanic, he recommended changing the master cylinder. I changed it but still nothing. I tried bleeding the slave but every time I bleed it, it has air in it. So I'm stuck and don't know what should I do next. I think it might be my slave cylinder but I don't have a place or tools to do it myself. I'm pretty sure the entire tranny needs to be pulled out to remove the cylinder. I also read that most people change the clutch when they replace the slave.
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2016 Hyundai Sonata SE
6000 miles, 3 months old
2.4 GDI engine, auto trans
Variable-Displacement Compressor (no clutch, anyway, so that's what I'm assuming)
Is it OKAY to drive the car without refrigerant to circulate lubricating oil, or am I going to be looking at a new compressor in a few years?
A week ago, a grasshopper put a hole in the condenser. Yes, a friggen BUG, complete with bug guts and wings stuck around the tiny dent and pinhole. I'm arguing with Hyundai over the warranty coverage, they say "outside forces" and I'm saying "defective part or crappy engineering"...
The dealer's service writer said there would be no problem driving the car while we wait for parts, as long as we didn't turn the AC on. Okay, it's not summer anymore, but doesn't the compressor want to be on in DEFROST setting? Supposedly the system won't try and turn on the compressor if it's low on charge, but...being a variable displacement compressor with no clutch...
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I bought some new bulbs for the headlights and tried to install them today. I couldn't get the bulb to come out. The manual doesn't really show how to get it out. I know how to take the wire out and that;s about it. How to take the headlight out.
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