Sonata I45 (LF 2015+) :: How To Start The Vehicle If Key Fob Dies
Sep 8, 2016
Just as the title states, how do you start your vehicle if you are out and your key fob dies? Is there a method to start the vehicle without having the spare on you?
BTW, what is approximate battery life for the 2015 sonata key fob?
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Experienced an incredible failure this morning when I went out to start my 2015 2.0t Ultimate. Foot on brake, press start. Engine starts and the car icon in the middle of the instruments shows the system scan. Scan completes and all warning lights stay on. The LCD panel starts to report system after system has failed ... SCC, EPB, FCW, RPD, LDW, a veritable alphabet soup of abbreviations. Put car in gear and pulled out of space to see if that would have any effect. Turning wheel very heavy as if power steering has failed. No effect from moving a few feet. Couldn't get back directly to my parking spot so carefully around the block to get back to my space. Rear view camera came on when in Reverse but it remained on after shifting into Drive.
Back into park. Turned off engine. Tried to restart. No dice, won't even go through the start cycle. just all the warning lights on and LDW Failure on the LCD panel. Arranged a tow to the dealer and when the tow truck arrived we discovered the Electronic Parking Brake had automatically engaged even though I intentionally had left it off and there was no way to release it. Battery appears to have plenty of power so unlikely it is a low battery issue ... the two times it did start it turned over without hesitation. It's behaving as if the computer has been totally scrambled. There used to be a joke around that if Microsoft made cars, all the instruments and warning lights would be replaced by a single big red light in the middle of the dash reading "General Vehicle Fault" and it seems like that's what mine is telling me.
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Noticed the condensation from the exhaust seems to only exit on the left muffler when the vehicle is idling?
Is there an actuator that turns the right side unit on under heavier acceleration?
BMW uses an actuator on their exhaust system that opens up to create more airflow when above a certain RPM.
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I have about 3400 miles on my Sonata 2.0T, and I have experienced a long crank with (puttering in between), and does not start, twice occurrence thus far. I have no warning lights, no lamps (SES) that stay on afterward, nothing at all. I have had to press the "start/stop" button again to make it stop, then let it sit for a few seconds press the button again, re-cranks, and starts this time. I know that if take to the dealer they will not find anything wrong since most concerns they have to duplicate in order to diagnose. The SES light is not on, so I know we have no fault codes to go by. Sounds as if the fuel pump is crapping out, or no spark is being generated.
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Noticed that when drive Sonata cold without having it warmed up and you hit the accelerator even a little bit that it 'jerks' back a bit? Once the car is warmed up you don't feel it anymore.
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I've driven 32k miles now, and I'm having an acceleration problem. It does not happen everyday, maybe once a month. but once I start accelerating hard to merge onto highway, it shifts down and rpm goes up but the speed remains the same.
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I am a proud and recent owner of a 2015 Sonata Sport 2.0T!
Car looks amazing and am very happy with it.
But lately I have been noticing lots of drone noise coming from the engine, and a really loud cold start as well. The "cold start loudness" goes away after a little bit of driving.
Was wondering if this is just the way the 2.0T sounds, or should i get it checked?
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I've got this 96 neon. I can drive it to work and almost exactly 10 miles into the trip everyday I notice a subtle chug. Then it gets worst and within a couple of miles it chugs progressively worse until it dies. I pull over to the side of the road for 5-10 minutes. Then I can start it back up and run down the road another 3-5 miles before it happens again. I've changed the computer, coil, cam positioning sensor, O2 sensor, gutted the cat, changed plugs and wires. I'm to the end of my rope with this car. The codes that its throwing are no dice.
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My wife's 07 Camry cranks then immediately dies. I tried to crank it again and it want even start at all.
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2002 LeSabre Dies suddenly (usually or always at idle -- not 100% sure) and always restarts immediately. Not the fuel system - fuel pressure good, pump replaced. Already replaced the Idle air control (IAC) valve. Recent tune-up. No DTC codes. Should I suspect the crank sensor, or would that throw a trouble code? What else could cause this -- PCM?
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'97 dodge dakota engine starts and vehicle will move and then engine dies. Just bought it and it ran fine. Coil was replaced by previous owner four months ago. At times it will run fine but is not reliable and wife will not drive in it. Had it towed to dodge dealer and they said it needed a new coil which they installed and still have the same problem and now think it might be the ecm which is mine even if it does not cure problem. Truck has 145k miles and otherwise is in good shape. When it does run, engine is strong, automatic shifts good and all accessories work. But, it won't keep running.
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I just picked up a 2004 ford escape and information is difficult for me to obtain. Person I purchased from had all new suspension installed. Says it needs new transmission.
My indications: Vehicle starts right up dies/stalls with anything above throttle. Major lack of power. Was able to put in Reverse and it moved a bit and same as drive. Smoke from rear of engine. Seems like coolant dumping into exhaust. shake on exhaust you can hear slosh slosh in exhaust.
No engine trouble codes no lights on dash.
Am I looking at a headgasket? This has the 3.0 duratec v6 with the water pump belt driven by the cam on the driver side. Open up the oil cap there is the timing chain. serpentine belt is on passenger side of engine. There is no coolant/water in the engine oil but the coolant is disappearing FAST. no coolant on spark plugs that indicate its in the cylendars.
Was going to check compression but the compression tester I have only threads up to 14mm. to small for the hole. I can probably rent a tester with proper sizes if needed. Fuel pressure at the rail primes to 60 psi and stays there. Stays at 60 psi while running as well.
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Three days ago while stopped at a light the car creeped forward forcing me to press harder on the brake to keep vehicle from moving.
Next day drove for 100+ miles with some stop and go traffic no problems. Third day drove 50 miles and upon arriving at home brakes felt spongy and nearly hit the floor the dash illuminated "Check Brake System".
My Camry has 5437 miles on it.
The dealer just called and said they need to replace a "brake booster". They said there is a TSB that addresses this issue in a VIN range.
Image here : YouTube [URL].....
I'm glad I was only stopping to pull into my drive way and not the freaking stop and go freeway traffic on the way to work in the morning.
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if 08 factory running boards will fit on my 15? After ten weeks of waiting she finally in town but the dealer told me I never mentioned running boards so it's either swap my old ones or pay 600 for some after markets similar to the factory running boards.
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Tonight I got into my sonata and started it and went to put it in reverse and it just died. I put it back in park and went to start it and it wouldn't start, like the battery was dead. I found someone to jump me and when I had enough juice, I got it started again and immediately died and at the same time it died I heard a pop, I thought my belt had broke or something but it was fine. It won't crank at all now, just light dim and a click. The time before this incident it sounded really rough when I started it but it went away. The car has been idling rough right after start up then is fine and this has only been recently, just today it has sounded really rough during quick acceleration (I don't know if this has anything to do with it). I think it is the starter but I am not sure. The fuel pump was replaced several months ago so I am pretty confident it is not the fuel pump.
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I am experiencing a hard brake pedal about every other day if the car sits overnight. I know I am not depleting the vacuum supply before I exit the vehicle by pressing the brake pedal. Some mornings the pedal is very hard and barely moves and other mornings it's normal. My brake booster vacuum check valve hose assembly was replaced to try and fix the problem but it still does it. I also know my electric vacuum pump works correctly. Is it normal? Do I have a small leak in the brake booster vacuum diaphragm? I have no other brake feel issues.
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I have a 2014 Sonata GLS. This has happened 3 times so far. I often drive around looking at houses for sale etc. Sometimes I drive for 1 to 2 hours, usually low speeds under 20 to 30 mph.
So I come to a stop, start to accelerate and notice my transmission is having trouble engaging, I liken it to transmission slip, like winding up to get the vehicle to move. I also notice my dash gear indicator light is blank. No "D" in the display box, just empty. I stop at a safe spot, put the vehicle in park.
It will not release from park when I try to shift into gear again. I decided turn the vehicle off, re-start the car, and all is well, tranny works, dash indicator is back and all is good.
I drive the vehicle mostly at highway speeds to/from work with no issues. Each time this has happened its after driving at that low speed for at least an hour and a half or more. I haven't taken it to dealer yet.
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I have noticed what I can best describe as a squeaky noise that appears to be coming from the rear of the vehicle. At first I thought it was the breaks, (as most of the time when I left off the breaks after being stopped I hear the noise), but I also notice the noise while turning and also when getting into my car to sit in the seat (Or pushing down on the rear of the car). Almost sounds like something in the suspension needs to be lubricated (a bushing perhaps)?
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I have a 2011 Hyundai sonata and my steering wheel and body of vehicle vibrate either when I'm in idle or when I stop at a red light and once I let go of the brake and accelerate It stops. What can I do?
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I've been driving this Sonata 2015 Limited and while going very light on the pedal in eco mode it is barely hitting 18 to 20mpg. I find that very odd, and presume something is either calculating wrong or the car has an issue.
2015 limited
Eco Mode
2.4l engine
City driving but very soft on the pedal.
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Seeing issues with A/C not getting cold? I thought it felt a little warmer than it should, and then my wife got in my car and instantly called it out, and now it is pretty close to room temp. air....Could it be low pressure in the lines? Or the fluid itself (freeon...? =s) ?
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