Sonata I45 (LF 2015+) :: How To Clean Spots / Cloudiness On Instrument Gauge Plastic
Aug 11, 2016
I just bought my 2015 Sonata a few days ago and tonight I noticed spots and cloudiness on the plastic in front of the gauges. I tried wiping it with a microfiber cloth, a magic eraser, and a piece of newspaper dipped in a mixture of vinegar and water, but nothing seems to get the spots/cloudiness to go away. It's really distracting, particularly at night. I plan on trying Meguiar's Plastx, and if that doesn't work, I'll probably have to take it to the dealership and see what they can do.
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Have probably 1500 miles on my '15 XSE. Got in the car today and noticed that there was a crack in the instrument cluster plastic shield. I just detailed the interior of my car 400 miles ago and it wasn't there and I've been the only person in my car.
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This happened around 3pm yesterday on Limited 2.0T.
I had Hyundai Navigation going to see what the 3D view looked like (8" display on map fullscreen), along with my iPod Classic playing music. On the instrument cluster, I started cycling quickly through the tabs on the center LCD starting from the MPG/speed page to the navigation page (via the menu button on the steering wheel). I overshot it and cycled through again.
I was doing this very quickly when the whole instrument cluster restarted as if the engine was off and turned back on. The LCD and numbers on speedo and tach completely went out, the needles on speedo and tach went to zero and returned (while cluster was still off), and the cluster did a system check, with all icons displaying for a second then turning off and the System Check screen displaying on center LCD.
In addition, I previously had AUTO HOLD on and when the instrument cluster restarted, AUTO HOLD was displayed in red and could not be turned off or activated (car would not auto hold) and the traction control icon (I believe) stayed on. The main 8" display was unaffected when all this happened.
I was able to turn the car off and back on later and everything seemed fine after. It freaked me out quite a bit, especially when all this happened while I was driving.
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Our 2004 RX recently developed white spots on the plastic part of the steering wheel. This occurred gradually and is only on one side. I've tried using an all-purpose cleaner but that did not work.
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I wanted to know what do you use to clean the interior of your GX? For example the wood, the chrome parts, the display, the plastic around the door switches? I am using the Meguiars Gold Leather spray for the leather which is doing a decent job, but I don't know what's best for the dashboard and the other parts.
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Took my vehicle into a dealership but they couldn't figure it out. Basically, I have a brand new 2015 Sonata 2.0T Limited. Car has been great but 2 months or so ago the gauge showed less and less fuel upon filling tank. If I go to really old pump stations it will fill up all the way but any of the new or majority of stations the tank shuts the pump off prior to filling to full. The dealership called Hyundai but no one seems to know and I'm worried that if they don't know what the cause is they won't repair it.
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1991 Buick Regal. I'm driving at night a few days ago and all of a sudden the lights on the instrument panel go out. The headlights are still on and the radio is still playing.
So I click the headlights on and off and the instrument panel lights come back on. The next night this happens again. This time I just give the headlight switch a little jiggle and they come back on. Tonight they go out again, jiggle the switch and they come back on. They go right back out. Jiggle the switch again and they're on.
I drive for another five minutes and now I smell plastic burning; it's the typical electrical/wire short smell. I turned the interior lights on and there was no visible smoke.
I'm going to try and pull the dash tomorrow and see what's going on in there, but they want $400 for an OEM replacement switch! I found some used ones online, but I'd have to get them mailed from a junk yard for about $50 bucks.
So I'm wondering, is there a easy/cheap way to rig a headlight switch in the interim so I don't have a fire in this thing? I don't understand why a headlight switch has so many prongs on the connector.
The only caveat is that the guy who had this car before me rigged the ignition through the headlights (I was told as some kind of security feature?) so that the car will not crank unless the headlights are on. Maybe/hopefully some shoddy wiring on that is just causing an arc.
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I have a 2010 2.4 with approx 36k miles on it. I started noticing oil spots in the garage so I got under the car and saw that the back of the pan was covered in oil. The oil was on the rtv gasket for the pan, the back of the motor was dry so I'm under the impression that the gasket has failed. I checked the filter, and valve cover, everything is dry, the motor is dry and clean.
My question is, is this covered under the 10yr/100k warranty? I would like to avoid having to pay the $110 diagnostic fee if its not covered, since it looks like a pretty simple job dropping the pan. But if its covered by the warranty, it would be nice not having to do the work my self.
I am the first owner, and I believe the 5yr bumper to bumper warranty has expired.
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I think the black comb looking things on the bumper look cheap.
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I recently traded my 2012 GS 350 for a 2015 GX 460. It's more my type of vehicle, and I am loving it except for a noise under the dashboard that seems to be somewhere behind the instrument cluster.
The noise is more of a ticking sound, and if I had to guess, it seems to be a wiring harness in that mesh-type wrapping that's moving around. I hear mostly over bumps in the road, but it also shifts when I accelerate from a stop. Unfortunately, the area where I'm hearing this is inaccessible without removing the dash.
Below is a link to a dash cam video I shot with the noise.
Lexus GX 460 Dash Rattle - YouTube
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I have a 2002 Accent GS. Their is fuel flow out of the fuel filter. I've changed out the spark plugs and sprayed starting fluid into the cylinders, and still will not start. So there is no electricity to the spark plugs. Replaced all of the ECU fuses in the engine compartment and under the dash, and still will not start.
Don't think it is the coil pack, because I can't imagine both coils failing at same time. Think it is a relay or sensor. Which relay or sensor would also prevent power from going to the instrument panel gauges but still allow the instrument panel warning lights? Main relay? Crankshaft position sensor? Throttle position sensor?
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I found a instrument gauge cluster out of a 2005 XLT that I would like to put into my 2005 XL. It has the tach that I miss. The mileage is less. Will I have any problems switching them - i.e.,: lights not working, etc? Will the onboard computer correct the mileage?
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The Oil Gauge on the Instrument panel of my '99 Jeep Cherokee Classic is pegged fully to the right (TWICE the normal reading) when the vehicle is Stopped at a Light or stop sign. As I accelerate the needle drops down to NEARLY normal but pegs again as I decelerate to a stop. The engine sounds normal, operates like normal, no smells, oil level on dipstick is OK. What's up with this?
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98 accord v6, when we first got it about a year ago the temp gauge was a little erratic. Sometimes it would stay all the way down (cold) after driving for awhile. You can take your finger and thump the plastic and it would jump up to normal. At first it was only temp, but now all gauges including gas level are not working. Odometer still works right but the speedo goes to about 45 and stays there. Thumping still makes the needles bounce around.
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For a while now, my coolant temp gauge in the instrument cluster would bounce according to the bumps on the road, only when engine is fully warmed up. So I disconnected the ECT sensor to see if there's anything unusual. Nothing suspicious found, so I plugged it back in. Now my temp gauge is at "Cold" all the time. OBD reader shows normal coolant temp rise.
I shorted the ECT connector to simulate a hot condition--gauge still shows Cold. Checked the yellow/red wire against ground--5 ohm. Disconnected battery for 30 minutes--no change.
Now, it looks like I'll have to pull the instrument cluster, which is not something I want to do since I don't really have a place to work on the car, but I take this drastic measure.
Mine is a 2001, with the analog cluster.
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I have a 1997 Ford Expedition, 5.4. My research indicates that fuses 2. 19. 29 are associated with the instrument cluster (IC), could you identify their specific function in relation to the IC? My IC gauge lights are not showing and my alternator is not consistently charging. The blinkers, battery, oil, brake, and ABS indicator lights are showing in start. Regarding the alternator, my research indicates that a failing alt light on the IC may cause the no charging condition? As a note, I have a brand new battery, brand new alternator, brand new 3 pin wiring harness. Also, when the alternator is not charging and I connect the a jumper from the exciter wire directly to the pos battery terminal, the charging starts.
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I have a 2007 Sonata V6 with 198,000km (123,000 miles) and when I was driving yesterday I smelt a burning smell like burning rubber or plastic. The smell seemed to go away after a while and I was wondering what could have caused it?
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I have a 2005 F 350 with a 6.0 Diesel! My heat quit on my wife and I the other night! I replaced some fuses and started the truck to make sure the heat was working and it was! So I thought while I am here I should replace some bulbs in the cluster that were out!
I took the cluster out, looked at the bulbs and they looked oK so I put them back in and put the dash back together! When I went to start the truck once I turned the switch on my gauges and lights started flickering on and off fast and all it will do is just click when I try to start it! I just had it running 15 minutes before this!
I went through all the fuses and if I take one of the relays out and turn the switch on all the lights and gauges seem to work right but when I try to start it, nothing! I replaced the relay and it starts flickering again! I had the relay checked at Napa and they said it was good! The relay was for the Powertrain module!
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This is for my gf's 2010 sonata. The instrument cluster stopped working but then after a couple days it started again. Once again it stopped working. This time I checked the fuse and it was fine, there was power going to it. I was able to get it to start working again by disconnecting the battery. I hate electrical shorts. I have done some research but haven't come up with anything other than re-seat the cluster or replace it. I plan on doing that the next time it stops working. I'm thinking it might have something to do with the ignition, but i really don't know.
Engine codes are P0011/P0014/P0462
The P0011/P0014 are, i think, the oil control valve. I ordered that.
The P0462 code has to do with low voltage to the fuel level sensor, but the gas gauge has worked fine, well other than when none of the gauges work. Still I don't think it relates to cluster problem.
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2006 Sonata 3.3 (NF series). A few days ago the instrument cluster and LCD odometer stopped working.
The dash cluster lights up, warning lights flash on at start up just no indication of speed, fuel level, tach, or temp.
Fuse is good & has power to it. I re-seated all the connectors under the dash. No luck.
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I have a 2007 sonata gls with 2.4l engine. The airbag light on instrument panel stays on. A code b1102 has been stored. The code description is low voltage. I've been told its a bad srs module under center console.
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