Sonata I45 (LF 2015+) :: Hesitation Upon Acceleration And Check Engine Light Came On
Mar 16, 2016
I bought a pre-owned 2015 Sonata Limited in November. I only had less than two weeks before the car hesitated upon acceleration and the check engine light came on. At the time, I thought it was a loose gas cap as I'd just gassed up. I took it to the dealership, they pulled the code and it said to replace the accelerator pedal. That required a second trip to the dealership 2 weeks later when they completed the work. Two weeks later and the light came back on. I took it back and asked them to keep it until they found and fixed the root cause while I took a loaner. They kept the car about 2 weeks and when I picked it up, I found that no work had been completed. Two days (!!) later the light came back on.
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I'm on my second '15 Limited Turbo. Only have 2k miles, but I've noticed an issue with acceleration. When under hard acceleration, especially in 3rd or 4th gear, around 5k RPM the engine starts hesitating. It feels like it runs out of steam. This feeling lasts through beginning of next gear, then the car picks up again. It is actually faster when applying less throttle.
What it could be? It did it since new, I took it to the dealer once, but got some stupid response that it was just rev limiter kicking in (at 5k, right), unfortunately had no time to leave it with them again/show it to them. I also thought it might just go away on it's own, plus I don't usually drive it that hard anyway...
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I have a 2015 Sonata 2.0T and I have noticed knocking noise when driving. I experience it more when on the highway/freeway. I mainly experience it during acceleration. Not hard acceleration but when I want to overtake or when the road curves and coming out of the curve -I step in the gas a bit, I hear the knock.
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Looking at an RC for the first time and don't know a thing. I saw one comment "about drive by wire". Is there hesitation on acceleration from a start on these cars?
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Check engine light came on momentarily, car had poor acceleration. Light went out and ESC light came on. When the car was turned off and restarted, the ESC light went out.
I scanned the engine, no codes, either open, pending or historical.
Question, could the issues with the two lights be related? Or is there anything else I should check?
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I just bought a used 2004 Elantra that has 97,000 miles on it. When I took the vehicle out for a test drive it was smooth and quite. That was on Monday its now Saturday less than 300 miles later and the check engine light came on and it is having serious hesitation issues?! I am going to take it back where I purchased it from on Monday when they open but in the meantime I would like to know if its could be something simple?
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I have been experiencing a slight hesitation when I accelerate from a stop. It almost feels like its going to stall for a brief second then it picks up and accelerates normal until I'm at a complete stop again. I have the 2016 sport with the standard 2.4L. I currently have 2200 miles on it now and when I go in for my initial suggested oil change at 3000 miles ...
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I have a 2008 Suzuki forenza, 125,000 miles. I commute 5 days a week one hour each way. The check engine light came on, then after a day it went off. I filled it up with gas and as soon as I started it up, the light came on again. Then an hour later, It went off. My brother came to pick me up from work, it was on (he notices nothing). Took it to Auto Zone and the code came up Throttle Body. Went to get a new gas cap & air filter, the code went off.
Changed both. (The gas cap was clicking but not staying on.) Drove to the mechanic. They said they cleared the code but do not see anything wrong and to bring it back if it comes on again. For 348 miles, it drove fine, parked it in the drive way. I went to start it this morning to move out of the driveway, the light is on again. There is a sight hesitation while driving; the mechanic thought it might be a spark plug. I have had the car a year. The hesitation comes and goes. I plan on getting the plugs changed next week. I started using Lucas with every fill up. So far have used it 3 times.
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I have a 2010 Sonata GLS 4-cylinder approximately 124K miles which has been hesitating on hard accelerations for about 8 months. It will usually do this when getting on an on-ramp for the freeway or if I need to do a U-turn and get up to speed quickly. What happens is I punch the gas and the vehicle acts as if it's not getting any gas and hesitates or stalls and then it finally takes off. Usually I see a cloud of grey/white smoke behind the car enough that I am unable to see any cars in my rear view mirror.
I do not seem to see a difference when the vehicle is warm/cold. I do not have a CEL nor have had one. I have replaced the MAP sensor, PCV valve and spark plugs (properly gapped). I have done a compression test and am getting roughly 180-185 psi per cylinder. I am not experiencing any oil loss/coolant loss, do not see any oil in the coolant or gummed-up or oily spark plugs. I have also replaced the transmission fluid, doing a drain and flushing the torque converter. I have also cleaned the throttle body, and am using a new air filter and the oil has been changed within the past 1000 miles.
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I have a 2011 GLS with about 47K.
There seems to be an issue with acceleration around 50-65MPH as the RPMs will jump as if to hesitate between gears (just my assumption). Maybe driving style/conditions as I live in West-Central Florida?
I'm the original owner and we have two of the same vehicles.
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Issues with check engine light coming on and staying on. The dealer says it is either a gas cap problem or the type of gas being put in the car. Dealer recommends only using Shell fuel. The car drives fine and am wondering if this might be sensitive fuel detection.
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I bought a used 2008 Sonata GLS with 65K miles 2 years ago. It's been a great car so far. For the first 25K miles that I drove it, it had good pickup and got ~30 MPG for my highway driving. In the last ~5K miles, the fuel mileage has dropped to 25MPG highway and it has some hesitation when accelerating, especially on lower RPM's. I changed the spark plugs with NGK Iridium, but it is still having the issue. What to check?
Some possibilities: ignition coils, sensors, timing belt, etc?
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Car has been running rough for a few days. Last night my engine light came on p0017. Called the dealer and they couldn't get it in until Monday. They said if the light wasn't flashing just bring it in then. So I disconnected the battery for a few minutes and the car started much smoother and the light went off. Drove into the city and once I got to my destination the light came back on and the car was running rough again. Decided to finish up and head home. However once I got in to make the drive home I could now hear a rattle when I accelerated coming from the engine. Then the oil light would come on every time I hit the gas to accelerate. I made it home as slow as possible but when I checked the oil it's not even reading on the dip stick and the dip stick smells burnt. No oil on the floor, oil filter and plug shows no leaks. I have noticed the past few weeks that my exhaust tips are dirtier than usual and black drops were all over the rear bumper and back of the trunk. Could this thing really have blown out that much oil. I just changed the oil less tHan 1000 miles ago.
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2010 Dodge Grand Caravan. On the way to work I was trying to accelerate from about 40mph to 50 mph and my van started to jerk a few times and then the check engine light immediately turned on. I only had a few more miles to work and it was fine the rest of the way.
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A couple of weeks ago, I went out in the evening after work, started my car and the CEL came on. It was fairly cold, probably 20 F. The car idled fine, but lacked power under acceleration. After the engine warmed up, it ran fine. The light stayed on for about a week, with the same symptoms. This week, we got a warm spell, 50s and 60s, and the light has gone out. This would seem to imply some malfunction of a temperature sensor, presumably coolant. It seems that when the engine is extremely cold, it is not adjusting the mixture appropriately, after it warms up, it is fine, or at least acceptable. I have an appointment to bring it in to the dealer. I assume they will be able to retrieve the code even if the light is not currently on.
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I have been having a grinding/metallic sound when going up hills in 4th/5th gear. It sounds like if you threw metal into moving parts. I believe it's coming from my engine or transmission. When i was at the dealer last month for a campaign and ecm upgrade i mentioned this problem and they replaced the vcm motor assy, however the problem still exists. What could be causing this problem?
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My wife called to tell me that her Camry would barely pull away from a standstill this morning. Very sluggish until about 2500 rpm, at which point she said it took off normally. This accompanied by the Check Engine light, which just appeared this morning. I haven't been home yet to check fluid levels or take a test drive. Anything in particular I should be looking for?
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During a hard acceleration to get on the freeway, the car "missed" and the check engine light came on. The shop said it was the fuel pump and replaced it. When I picked it up, they told me that I may need a new battery soon because the last start they did was hard. It worked well for me, but that day it was hard to start, but it did not seem like the battery. The shop checked the electrical system and all was good. They said the new fuel pump was faulty and replaced it. Since then, when it is over 70 degrees out (South Texas), and it is a hot start (I just drove it a while, turned it off, and try to restart within 30 minutes), it is hard to start. Could this be another faulty fuel pump? Is this some other problem? Could the shop have damaged something during the fuel pump replacement?
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My 2003 Honda Accord with 101,000 miles started hesitating on acceleration, and a day later my check engine light came on. I went to the auto parts store to borrow one of their diagnostic computers. The code I received for the engine light was from my O2 sensor. What can cause the hesitation and the O2 sensor to read faulty? I have had several O2 sensors go out on other vehicles, but that hasn’t caused any other symptoms before. I would like it to be that simple, seeing as how easy they are to replace, but I don’t want to get my hopes up. Anyway, the car is parked now and I am taking the bus because I can’t afford to take it to a mechanic. I don’t want to waste any money by starting to replace things without having better direction.
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New Sonata owner. Got myself a 2015 Ultimate. Is there much difference in acceleration between "Sports Mode", and just running the car in manual mode (shiftronic)?
I know my Elantra used to have a huge acceleration bonus if I ran it in manual mode. Not sure if that caries true here.
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My problem is this: if I accelerate quickly (either flooring it or close to it), then once I reach about 55-65mph the car suddenly jerks horribly. Sometimes it's one big jerk, other times it's several small jerking movements. ECO transmission ...
It's not a problem at speeds under 50mph, but it seems once I cross that 50-55mph threshold, I can't put my foot all the way down or I will get the jerking. It will also occur if I'm going say, 60mph and need to quickly get to 75-80mph. The first time this happened, I was accelerating onto a highway and the car jerked so badly that I thought I had gotten rear-ended.
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