Sonata I45 (LF 2015+) :: Engine Starts Hesitating Around 5k RPM Under Hard Acceleration
Feb 7, 2016
I'm on my second '15 Limited Turbo. Only have 2k miles, but I've noticed an issue with acceleration. When under hard acceleration, especially in 3rd or 4th gear, around 5k RPM the engine starts hesitating. It feels like it runs out of steam. This feeling lasts through beginning of next gear, then the car picks up again. It is actually faster when applying less throttle.
What it could be? It did it since new, I took it to the dealer once, but got some stupid response that it was just rev limiter kicking in (at 5k, right), unfortunately had no time to leave it with them again/show it to them. I also thought it might just go away on it's own, plus I don't usually drive it that hard anyway...
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I bought a pre-owned 2015 Sonata Limited in November. I only had less than two weeks before the car hesitated upon acceleration and the check engine light came on. At the time, I thought it was a loose gas cap as I'd just gassed up. I took it to the dealership, they pulled the code and it said to replace the accelerator pedal. That required a second trip to the dealership 2 weeks later when they completed the work. Two weeks later and the light came back on. I took it back and asked them to keep it until they found and fixed the root cause while I took a loaner. They kept the car about 2 weeks and when I picked it up, I found that no work had been completed. Two days (!!) later the light came back on.
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I have a 2015 Sonata 2.0T and I have noticed knocking noise when driving. I experience it more when on the highway/freeway. I mainly experience it during acceleration. Not hard acceleration but when I want to overtake or when the road curves and coming out of the curve -I step in the gas a bit, I hear the knock.
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I've been noticing that when I need to make a hard stop, I will feel a sudden engine vibration for about 1 second as soon as it comes to a complete stop. The same feeling you might get when the RPM drops too low. It only does it for like 1 second though. I am not sure if it is the gears shifting down that is causing this. I won't feel it if I am making a gradual slow stop. Only fast sudden stops.
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I have a 2010 Forte EX with 47,000 on it. It seems to have a "cold start" problem when temps are cold. For the first 10-15 min. when on the highway the engine starts cutting out or hesitating and the check engine light flashes off and on. It also stalls on occasion at stop lights. After those 10 min. the car runs fine. I have taken it to the Kia dealer and they have re-created the problem but was told there was no codes for the check engine light. So, apparently the dealer can't do anything without a code and Kia Corp. doesn't know what to do either! What could be causing this "cold start" problem, such as fuel pump, fuel filter etc? The dealer said they checked those things and those components check out. Are there no mechanics anymore or just computer techs that run diagnostics and let the codes tell them what is wrong?!!
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My 2003 Honda Accord with 101,000 miles started hesitating on acceleration, and a day later my check engine light came on. I went to the auto parts store to borrow one of their diagnostic computers. The code I received for the engine light was from my O2 sensor. What can cause the hesitation and the O2 sensor to read faulty? I have had several O2 sensors go out on other vehicles, but that hasn’t caused any other symptoms before. I would like it to be that simple, seeing as how easy they are to replace, but I don’t want to get my hopes up. Anyway, the car is parked now and I am taking the bus because I can’t afford to take it to a mechanic. I don’t want to waste any money by starting to replace things without having better direction.
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I have been having a grinding/metallic sound when going up hills in 4th/5th gear. It sounds like if you threw metal into moving parts. I believe it's coming from my engine or transmission. When i was at the dealer last month for a campaign and ecm upgrade i mentioned this problem and they replaced the vcm motor assy, however the problem still exists. What could be causing this problem?
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I have a 2006 town and country with a 3.3 and 220,000 miles.
Last week I was having some hard starts and loss of power on acceleration. My check engine light flashed during one episode so I had autozone check the code and it showed a misfire. I changed out my plugs and wires and that solved my issue. It started and ran like new.
Yesterday, I was running errands and my charging light came on. I was about ten miles from home and I decided to go for it. It was night so the headlights were on. Along the way, everything started to dim. Headlights, dash lights, airbag indicator came on and then the van just died. I walked the final mile and we towed it home.
The alternator and battery were both replaced last year in November making them both one year old. AC Delco battery 660 cca and I had a very reputable alternator shop rebuild the alternator.
So before I towed the van home, I hooked up some heavy duty jumper cables from a running chevy venture and let it charge 15 minutes. After the 15 minutes it was just clicks in rapid succession.
I hooked it up to a trickle charger overnight, 12v 2 amp setting. This morning, the van started, idled fine for about five seconds and then started trying to cut out. I kept it running by giving it gas but after about twenty seconds it stalled. I tried to restart and nothing but the rapid clicks. Three more hours on the trickle charger and the same exact thing happened. It started, began to stall, quit and then wouldn't restart.
I noticed today that the power steering reservoir was leaking a decent amount of fluid down onto everything around it including the coil pack. I replaced this today and used brake cleaner to clean all the surrounding components.
After doing some internet sleuthing, I found a thread with the same problem. For this guy, he had a disconnected ground from the negative battery terminal. I chased mine down (G101) disconnected and wire brushed it all clean. Put it all back together and still the same problem.
Here is what I have discovered:
Trying to jump it from another vehicle only results in the clicks. This is true whether the jumper cables on the dead battery are on both terminals or the negative is grounded on the motor. If the battery were the problem, I should be able to jump through it. If the alternator were the problem, I should be able to start with a jump.
After charging the battery, it will start once but then die soon after. Battery with the key off will read just under 12 volts (11.9, 11.6). With the key on, it will drop to the 8's (8.6, etc.) I have not yet had the battery or alternator bench tested. I plan to start with the battery in the morning.
It seems to me that the alternator wasn't charging the battery or it wouldn't have just killed the battery as those accessories should be powered by the alternator. It shouldn't be a starter issue since it will start after being on the trickle charger.
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New Sonata owner. Got myself a 2015 Ultimate. Is there much difference in acceleration between "Sports Mode", and just running the car in manual mode (shiftronic)?
I know my Elantra used to have a huge acceleration bonus if I ran it in manual mode. Not sure if that caries true here.
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My problem is this: if I accelerate quickly (either flooring it or close to it), then once I reach about 55-65mph the car suddenly jerks horribly. Sometimes it's one big jerk, other times it's several small jerking movements. ECO transmission ...
It's not a problem at speeds under 50mph, but it seems once I cross that 50-55mph threshold, I can't put my foot all the way down or I will get the jerking. It will also occur if I'm going say, 60mph and need to quickly get to 75-80mph. The first time this happened, I was accelerating onto a highway and the car jerked so badly that I thought I had gotten rear-ended.
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2016 2.4 limited. the trunk takes a lot of force to close....
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Noticed that the A/C blows harder when you are braking? Is this normal or should I take it in? I have a 2016 Sonata Sport.
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I've driven 32k miles now, and I'm having an acceleration problem. It does not happen everyday, maybe once a month. but once I start accelerating hard to merge onto highway, it shifts down and rpm goes up but the speed remains the same.
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Starts good cold and hot. Taking off like a grandpa on an evening drive don't notice a thing. Only codes that keep coming up are 2614 and 2617 which are cmp and ckp open curcuit codes and a software incompatibility code for FICM which is due to the updated software in the fresh FICM I installed. HPO pressures are good, has boost, idles smooth, revs nice when in park. New injectors (cause it was running rough especially cold before) and CMP and CKP (because of the above codes and didn't change)and ICP and IPR (last 2 installed because of HPO codes that are gone now with the IPR and ICP). Fuel pressure is 65psi (updated spring). When you step on it while driving it sputters and bucks like it's out of fuel, let off the throttle a bit and it purrs like a kitten. I'm a little stumped. I think it puffs a little white/blue smoke while it bucks.. not much tho. and it comes in little puffs. Took off filler cap and there is almost no blow by.
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I have a 2010 Sonata GLS 4-cylinder approximately 124K miles which has been hesitating on hard accelerations for about 8 months. It will usually do this when getting on an on-ramp for the freeway or if I need to do a U-turn and get up to speed quickly. What happens is I punch the gas and the vehicle acts as if it's not getting any gas and hesitates or stalls and then it finally takes off. Usually I see a cloud of grey/white smoke behind the car enough that I am unable to see any cars in my rear view mirror.
I do not seem to see a difference when the vehicle is warm/cold. I do not have a CEL nor have had one. I have replaced the MAP sensor, PCV valve and spark plugs (properly gapped). I have done a compression test and am getting roughly 180-185 psi per cylinder. I am not experiencing any oil loss/coolant loss, do not see any oil in the coolant or gummed-up or oily spark plugs. I have also replaced the transmission fluid, doing a drain and flushing the torque converter. I have also cleaned the throttle body, and am using a new air filter and the oil has been changed within the past 1000 miles.
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Driving to lunch today I pulled out on the highway and accelerated hard. The Sonata didnt want to shift higher than about 4th gear (auto trans w/ the "slap stick" that comes standard. I laid off the gas and the car seemed to be running fine at that point. 1/2 mile down the road the car just died. I pulled over the car restarted fine. At this point it didnt want to shift well and died a couple times. I stopped for lunch. Afterwards I took it easy, car acted fine. Outside of work I accelerated hard again and the same thing started again.
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Still getting used to my 2010 2.4 Sonata>Seems hard to get gradual acceleration when I depress gas pedal,instead I get Jack rabbi t take offs ,I wonder if linkage needs to be adjusted.
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11' Non-Turbo 2.4 with 145k Full Synthetic every 5k (Done me or provided to the quicky lube) Around 80K about 2 weeks after taking it in for an oil change my wife heard a ticking sound coming from under the hood. Pulled over and there wasn't a drop of oil on the stick. It started with about a qt every 1000 miles or so, now it's to the point that I have to put a qt in about every 3 days (1-200 miles)
We cannot see oil anywhere, last I checked the plugs had carbon build up but were not wet. (Recently) We also hear a ticking sound during hard acceleration and a good bit of black smoke coming from the exhaust.
We still owe 5k on it, it's our first new car and I'm terrified the thing is going to blow up before I pay it off. Tonight as I was about to get in the car with her I heard the clicking sound again but this time it was full (just added some yesterday). I have compression and leak down testers, know a little bit but I am nowhere near a "mechanic".
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My car has been running great. It has 125,000 miles on it. A couple weeks ago I did a bunch of work. I changed the plugs, air filter, timing belt, ac belt, alt, belt, cooling flush, tranny flush and brakes. Everything was great until yesterday. I wanted to test the power so I was on the highway going up this long incline going relatively fast. As I get almost to the top of the hill, my car starts hesitating losing power and check engine light comes on. I make it off the exit and sputter to a commuter parking lot. I shut the car off, check under the car for leaks and check the fluids. Everything is ok. I start the car back up and its running fine again. I drive home then I drive to the parts store to have them check the codes. No codes found. He told me that the engine light needs to be on for them to find codes.
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I have an '03 Jeep Grand Cherokee that has twice had issues with hesitating while driving (like it's not getting gas--tank is full), then starts rattling, then dies. I had it towed to the shop 3 weeks ago. "loss of cam or crank sensor misfire codes found loose connection at pcm, connector 4, re-attach connector to lock position, erase codes". Picked it up after work was done. When driving it to work two days ago, the same exact situation presented. Had it towed again to shop. They're saying they ran it all day and cannot get any codes to come up and that 90% of the time it's the cam sensor. He also said 1/3 of the time (math issues) it's the computer. How can you know if it's the cam sensor or the computer?
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Ok my 2000 Toyota Celica GTS is having 2 very bad issues.
1st - It is hesitating very bad when doing "cold starts" and nearly dies when I turn the A/C on (engine code reads : Random/Multiple Misfires on all 4 cylinders)
2nd - I have to put in 1 pint of Anti Freeze every single WEEK! It is not leaking on the ground as far as i can tell too.
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