Sonata I45 (LF 2015+) :: Engine Lost Almost All Power When Pushed The Accelerator At 30 MPH
Jun 15, 2016
I pushed the accelerator all the way to the floor at 30 MPH and the engine lost almost all power? As soon as I let up to about 9/10 throttle everything reverted to normal. Took it to the dealer and it showed no codes. The Tech and I took it for a road test and it did it only one more time. He said to keep an eye on it but was baffled. I tested it later in the sport drive mode and it would bog down every time if pushed hard to floor at about 30mph.
My best guess is that I got some bad regular low octane gasoline and the ECM is sensing a knock and retarding the timing or cutting off fuel flow similar to over revving condition. I will fill it up with 93 Octane Premium next time I get fuel and se what happens. Usually runs fine on 87 Octane but most of the time I don't floorboard the accelerator pedal. As I said at 9/10 throttle it runs fine.
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Just got into my 2006 Sonata V6 this morning. 120,000 miles. Drove last night, no problems. Started her up now this morning, noted check engine light and ESC lights on.
Pushed accelator pedal, no increase in RPMS at all. Put the car in gear (auto), car moves forward and backward, but pressing the pedal doesn't increase the rpms at all, so right now its not driveable. Luckily, its in the driveway so I know it could be worse. Took floor mat out, no interference issue there.
I changed the starter solenoid and that was over 45,000 miles ago. Never had that problem.
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Noticed that when drive Sonata cold without having it warmed up and you hit the accelerator even a little bit that it 'jerks' back a bit? Once the car is warmed up you don't feel it anymore.
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I drive a 2007 Sonata GLS with 54k miles on it. Recently, the engine has lost a lot of power and the fuel economy has gone down quite a bit. (20 mpg in mixed driving)
I replaced the engine oil; air filter & oil filter myself (Full Synthetic & FRAM filters). Engine is sounding and driving lot smoother now. However, the power & acceleration are still pretty bad. MPG is slightly better at 21mpg
I would like to change spark plugs myself and see if that will result in any improvements.
1. What spark plugs do you recommend should I use (there are too many brands out there)
2. How difficult is it to change them.
3. How I can get the car to perform better.
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I have a 2008 Hyundai Sonata Limited w/3.3 engine with 41414 miles. I was driving along and the car lost power but the engine kept running at idle. Check engine light came on so I took it to a shop.They said the throttle control showed up bad. The whole throttle control system has to be replaced. This would cost @$450.00 Does this seem right that a car with only 41 thousand miles would need a major part like this replaced? The bumper to bumper warranty ran out in Jan 2013.
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My problem is on wed I was driving my car,when I suddenly lost acceleration power, after pulling over to the side of the road I turned off the car and restarted it. However I still had the same problem with acceleration. After a while of trying to get the car to start I called a tow truck and got it towed to the dealer. When I got there they told me it was likely and issue with with a sensor on the gas pedal and the engine. At the dealership I started the car to show them the problem however the car drove perfectly and no engine light came on.
They told me it was most like what they said over the phone the sensors. However on xmas eve they called me and left a voicemail saying the rear cat had went out and taken out both rear exhaust manifolds and it would coast $3000 to fix. My question is how can all that happen without the checking engine light coming on in the car and the car showing no problems while i was driving it and how did they miss it when I had took the car in two weeks earlier for regular maintenance and to correct a drive belt issue due to it walking after I purchased a new drive belt and pulley.
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well I don't exactly know if that's what I should call it... I was driving last night around 10 and I pushed the gas down 3/4 of the way or so to pass around this car but instead of downshifting and accelerating, it just revved up all the way, i kept hitting the gas and it was like revving it in neutral then it kicked back into gear... should i be concerned? It was fine the rest of the night but I wasn't driving it hard.
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On the freeway tonight the engine was felt like it was losing considerable power. When I pressed the gas it wouldn't push you into the seat like usual and it shuddered a little. As I was pushing the gas the engine light came on for a couple seconds then turned off. After I exited the freeway, I tried pushing the gas and it wouldn't accelerate. It also seemed like it was limiting itself to 60mph and 4-5k rpm, even when the gas was fully down (not past gate though, I was afraid I wouldn't be able to make it home if I did so). I stopped and turned the car off and on again and the problems seemed to have disappeared. Acceleration came back, car went over 60 and I was able to get it a little past red line with gas pedal past gate.
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Here are the facts about my problem:
- 1996 Park Avenue 3.8 V-6
- 104,000 miles
Problem: When it warms up it begins to hesitate (at all speeds) when the accellerator is pushed s-l-o-w-l-y. It bucks and acts like it is kicking in and out. A typical example is rolling down a flat stretch of road at 65 mph with the cruise on. Here comes a small hill. As the vehicle begins going up the hill the cruise automatically tries to accellerate the engine to compensate for the hill. It begins to buck hard. I put my foot on the accellerator and can accellerate through the bucking and it smooths out. A few more facts.
- Problem ONLY happens when it warms up. Typicall this may be as much as 10 miles down the road.
- When it gets fully warm it will hesitate taking off from a stop light. Again, just small short hesitations. Even putting your foot into the accellerator it will not totally smooth it out.
- I have replaced all of the ignition coils, and the ignition module below the coils.
- One other very strange deal. When it was screwing up on me really bad and I was replacing the coils and the modules, I revved it up out of frustration. When I got to 4,000 rmp it began to cycle in and out. Almost like a 'whaaa whaaa whaaa whaaa whaaa and won't go beyond 4,000 rpm.
- The diagnostic guy at Autozone told me it may be the a MAP sensor, the throttle body sensor and my uncle suggested the crank sensor.
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I got into our car (2013 RX 450h) and the seat was completely pushed back. I had been the last (and only ) driver of our car and had not adjusted the seat. I managed to reach the brake pedal, started the car, pushed the L1 seating position and my seat re-adjusted. I then put the car into Drive and when I stepped on the accelerator, it would not move.
The parking brake was not on, there was nothing obstructing the car. I turned it off, turned it on again and it was then fine. I had last driven it 3 days prior, the battery was fine, the outside temperature was registered as 30 degrees, so not excessively cold. We park in a garage although it is not entirely closed off from the outside air.
Experienced this with the car no moving despite being in drive and stepping on accelerator?
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I have a 2010 Hyundai Sonata GLS 2.4L. This problem started several weeks ago. When I turn on the ignition on the car, I hear a squeaking noise coming from the engine initially. Once the engine warms up, the squeaking sound lessen but does not go away. When I shift my automatic transmission to DRIVE, and press the accelerator, I hear squeaking noise coming from the engine again. I stopped my car and opened the hood. I could hear the squeaking noise coming from the front left of my car, if you are facing forward the front of the car. I do not know much about cars but I think it is coming from the fan belt/serpentine belt, or possibly alternator but I am really not sure.
Presently, the sound has gotten worse so I want to fix this as quickly as possible. I am second owner and the mileage on the car is 45,550.
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Left for work yesterday AM on a "dark and stormy" morning. About 1/2 mile down the road lost my accelerator. Engine was running fine, but pushing pedal did nothing. Engine check light "ON". Opened hood and found a small mouse nest on top of throttle body. Came back after work. Looked for chewed cables, none found. Car started up and accelerator worked, drove home, hooked up code reader, P0138: downstream O2 sensor, high voltage. What could it be?Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor?
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I drove my 2012 Sonata GLS to work, when I left work the car lit up for a split second and then died. I thought the battery was the problem, swapped it out with a new one, nothing. Main fuse is good and all the fuses in the engine compartment are fine. Oddly the interior fuse box is not receiving power at all. Multi-meter shows life in the battery and engine fuses. There are no working lights of any kind, nothing happens when I turn the key, Key FOB not working, the whole nine yards.
The car has 63,000 miles on it, I purchased it 4 months ago from a dealership, declining bumper to bumper warranty. My sales rep and the warranty manager reassured me the 5 year, 100k powertrain would be transferred to me, and it wasn't. I'm currently fighting with the dealership over them covering it, but that's a whole other story.
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I recently changed my intake to Takeda and I am hearing squeaking noise every time I hit on the accelerator, but only when my windows are down. So I don't know if this is from the intake or something else is wrong.
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I was driving and got off the freeway exit ramp and while I was waiting to make a left turn, the car all of a sudden started sputtering (RPM's were low up and down on idle) and eventually died while waiting to make a left turn.
Turned on the engine again.. same sputtering occurred and had to gas it so it wouldn't turn off.. Finally got to the side of the road.. turned the car off checked the oil.. no issues.. engine temperature was fine.. no check engine light.
After about 30 min later, turned the car on and it seemed to be normal again so I carefully drove to the dealer and encountered no issues. Took the car to the dealer and they couldn't find anything.
I drive a 2015 Hyundai Sonata Limited with about 19k miles now.
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I have had JoeZ/PTS catback exhaust on my rc f for a few months. I recently put PPE headers on and when I rapidly accelerate in park/neutral I get a whistling sound especially when backing of the accelerator. What it is?
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Well, my MIL came on, and hasn't left (yes, my gas cap was tightened). My bigger concern is that when I'm on the highway, if I have to slow down for traffic, upon accelerating again, when I hit 108km/h, the car does a crazy death shudder, and slows down...I have to release the pedal, let it slow to around 95, and then I can accelerate again. I'm gunna wait and see if the light goes off after a couple of days, but this is worrying.
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Recently, my car (2015 Sonata GLS) has been making a long beep after shutting off the engine, similar to the beep you get if you exit the car and leave the smart key inside. The beep is outside the car, not inside. The beep happens immediately upon hitting the ignition button, before I even have a chance to open the door. There is no indication of anything on the LCD screen.
This is really annoying, especially when it happens in my driveway late at night because I'm sure the neighbors can hear that 5 second-long beep. What it means?
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Had driven about 3 miles, engine warmed up. Stopped at the store for about 5 minutes and cut motor off. I started engine, put in drive and after about 20 ft., the motor cut off. Luckily I was in a parking lot and coasted to a stop. Started up again and everything seemed ok. One thing I did notice was after the cutoff, all dash icons, (oil, brake, engine, etc) were on. I especially noticed the key icon, indicating key was not in car, was on. What happened? Is this something that I should have the dealer look at? I doubt they could ever replicate it.
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I pulled into my garage yesterday and when I tried to move the transmission into Park it would not move. I tried turning the engine off and nothing would allow the transmission selector to move. I thought I would have to push something into the transmission lock slot but the only thing I had that was close to being able to fit into the small slot was the key in the FOB but it would not fit. By pure chance I happen to push on the transmission selector to the right and it moved over and then I was able to push it forward into Park. I must have pushed the selector into the sport mode when I entered the garage.
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Eco model (1.6T/DCT). driven 17k miles.
My biggest concerns seem to be the DCT transmission. It's....rough to say the least. It jerks and makes terrible noises in parking lots, which can be quite embarrassing if someone else is in the car. Just today, someone said "is your car okay?" I understand that DCT's are different, but I have driven this car since brand new, and it was never this bad.
The car also seems to shift to a gear that is too high for the speed, making the engine vibrate and sound strained while cruising. This problem occurs around 1500 RPM with the gas pedal pressed and just driving along. I can easily reproduce the issue by putting the car in manual mode, selecting the highest gear possible and then trying to accelerate without hitting the kick-down on the accelerator.
I use synthetic oil from the dealer, changed the air filter already, did the fuel injector cleaner additive and also use ethanol free gas.
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