Sonata I45 (LF 2015+) :: Engine Shudder At 108km/h Upon Accelerating
May 25, 2016
Well, my MIL came on, and hasn't left (yes, my gas cap was tightened). My bigger concern is that when I'm on the highway, if I have to slow down for traffic, upon accelerating again, when I hit 108km/h, the car does a crazy death shudder, and slows down...I have to release the pedal, let it slow to around 95, and then I can accelerate again. I'm gunna wait and see if the light goes off after a couple of days, but this is worrying.
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I have a 2015 Sonata SE 2.4L with 15k miles. Sometimes when accelerating, and almost always when accelerating uphill, the vehicle makes a noise that I can best describe as sounding like a grumbling or rattle from the engine. It almost has a "diesel engine" sound to it. I have noticed this going back to when the vehicle was brand new, but I have recently noticed it more.
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I've driven 32k miles now, and I'm having an acceleration problem. It does not happen everyday, maybe once a month. but once I start accelerating hard to merge onto highway, it shifts down and rpm goes up but the speed remains the same.
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This is a intermittent issue. While either parked but mostly at stop lights I'll notice the engine shudder and shake very hard. It's done it about a handful of times and sometimes the AC is on and sometimes it isn't.
I have a 2011 SE ...
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My car has developed a strange engine/transmission shudder that occurs only between the temps of 32-50F. It happens when the car is still warming up, when I pull up to a red light and put my foot on the brake pedal the front end makes a vibrating/shuddering noise. You can only hear it from the inside, it sounds like something under the hood or maybe dash is vibrating.
If I shift into neutral or park it goes away. It looks like the RPM drops in drive, but it won't happen when the car is warmed up or if its colder (20F) or warmer out (50F). I recently installed a front strut bar, but I'm not sure it's responsible for causing the vibration I'm hearing.
I checked the oil level this morning, it's right at the full mark. I might try some injector cleaner but it's worth noting Hyundai recommends frequent spark plug replacement in these engines. I believe the manual states to change the spark plugs at 45K, more frequently if the car idles or is driven at slow speeds. I've also seen the 2011 manual indicate to change the plugs out at 22.5K.
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I was driving and got off the freeway exit ramp and while I was waiting to make a left turn, the car all of a sudden started sputtering (RPM's were low up and down on idle) and eventually died while waiting to make a left turn.
Turned on the engine again.. same sputtering occurred and had to gas it so it wouldn't turn off.. Finally got to the side of the road.. turned the car off checked the oil.. no issues.. engine temperature was fine.. no check engine light.
After about 30 min later, turned the car on and it seemed to be normal again so I carefully drove to the dealer and encountered no issues. Took the car to the dealer and they couldn't find anything.
I drive a 2015 Hyundai Sonata Limited with about 19k miles now.
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Recently, my car (2015 Sonata GLS) has been making a long beep after shutting off the engine, similar to the beep you get if you exit the car and leave the smart key inside. The beep is outside the car, not inside. The beep happens immediately upon hitting the ignition button, before I even have a chance to open the door. There is no indication of anything on the LCD screen.
This is really annoying, especially when it happens in my driveway late at night because I'm sure the neighbors can hear that 5 second-long beep. What it means?
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Had driven about 3 miles, engine warmed up. Stopped at the store for about 5 minutes and cut motor off. I started engine, put in drive and after about 20 ft., the motor cut off. Luckily I was in a parking lot and coasted to a stop. Started up again and everything seemed ok. One thing I did notice was after the cutoff, all dash icons, (oil, brake, engine, etc) were on. I especially noticed the key icon, indicating key was not in car, was on. What happened? Is this something that I should have the dealer look at? I doubt they could ever replicate it.
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About 20000 miles on it, had dealer service a couple weeks ago. Going to a friends this evening. Stopped at an intersection when accelerating again, there was a shudder for a second, different than the normal motor start up. Then I noticed the CEL light and the Hybrid system light were on. No place to pull off the road so continued on about 1/2 mile to the friends condo and pulling in the parking lot it seemed like the engine was in safe mode, reduced power, so parked it there and got a ride home.
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2006 Prius ...
Symptoms: The shudder feels like going over a "washboard" dirt road. It mimics the normal "cough / hesitation" that occasionally happens when the MG2 switches to the ICE while accelerating, or vice versa at a stop light. However, unlike the normal switching, this is continuous. It ONLY happens when accelerating; as soon as I lift my foot from the gas, the shudder quits. Although it is worse in stop-and-go, it is also noticeable on a clear freeway. It is worse with a cold engine, but continues from speeds of 10 mph all the way up to 80 mph (and probably higher.) The shudder is slower at lower speeds, and faster at higher speeds. It is most dramatic when making a left turn from a dead stop - the whole vehicle shakes. Weather conditions vary, but usually it happens on dry, paved roads, anywhere from 30-degrees to 75-degrees (F).
Frequency: first noticed a few months ago, gradually becoming more frequent. Now, it is almost every time the car is started. (Sometimes it accelerates without any problem at all.)
Diagnostics: The "Check Engine" light has been on for about 5 years (dealerships couldn't find anything wrong and it turned out to be the MG1 battery.) But when this new shuddering happens, the "Check Engine" light blinks continuously until the shuddering quits (i.e. let off the gas or brake.) There are no other indicator lights on (no triangle of death). And the diagnostics mode tells me nothing.
Other Info: The MG2 battery has not been replaced in the entire life of the vehicle. The MG1 battery was replaced, however, about 2 years ago. Regular oil changes have been kept up, along with air filter replacements, brake pad replacements, tire rotations, and all the other standard maintenance. It has had one owner, and is at 255,000 miles. MPG is currently at about 44.4 and has not changed since this problem started.
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I pulled into my garage yesterday and when I tried to move the transmission into Park it would not move. I tried turning the engine off and nothing would allow the transmission selector to move. I thought I would have to push something into the transmission lock slot but the only thing I had that was close to being able to fit into the small slot was the key in the FOB but it would not fit. By pure chance I happen to push on the transmission selector to the right and it moved over and then I was able to push it forward into Park. I must have pushed the selector into the sport mode when I entered the garage.
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Eco model (1.6T/DCT). driven 17k miles.
My biggest concerns seem to be the DCT transmission. It's....rough to say the least. It jerks and makes terrible noises in parking lots, which can be quite embarrassing if someone else is in the car. Just today, someone said "is your car okay?" I understand that DCT's are different, but I have driven this car since brand new, and it was never this bad.
The car also seems to shift to a gear that is too high for the speed, making the engine vibrate and sound strained while cruising. This problem occurs around 1500 RPM with the gas pedal pressed and just driving along. I can easily reproduce the issue by putting the car in manual mode, selecting the highest gear possible and then trying to accelerate without hitting the kick-down on the accelerator.
I use synthetic oil from the dealer, changed the air filter already, did the fuel injector cleaner additive and also use ethanol free gas.
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I pushed the accelerator all the way to the floor at 30 MPH and the engine lost almost all power? As soon as I let up to about 9/10 throttle everything reverted to normal. Took it to the dealer and it showed no codes. The Tech and I took it for a road test and it did it only one more time. He said to keep an eye on it but was baffled. I tested it later in the sport drive mode and it would bog down every time if pushed hard to floor at about 30mph.
My best guess is that I got some bad regular low octane gasoline and the ECM is sensing a knock and retarding the timing or cutting off fuel flow similar to over revving condition. I will fill it up with 93 Octane Premium next time I get fuel and se what happens. Usually runs fine on 87 Octane but most of the time I don't floorboard the accelerator pedal. As I said at 9/10 throttle it runs fine.
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On the freeway tonight the engine was felt like it was losing considerable power. When I pressed the gas it wouldn't push you into the seat like usual and it shuddered a little. As I was pushing the gas the engine light came on for a couple seconds then turned off. After I exited the freeway, I tried pushing the gas and it wouldn't accelerate. It also seemed like it was limiting itself to 60mph and 4-5k rpm, even when the gas was fully down (not past gate though, I was afraid I wouldn't be able to make it home if I did so). I stopped and turned the car off and on again and the problems seemed to have disappeared. Acceleration came back, car went over 60 and I was able to get it a little past red line with gas pedal past gate.
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I bought a pre-owned 2015 Sonata Limited in November. I only had less than two weeks before the car hesitated upon acceleration and the check engine light came on. At the time, I thought it was a loose gas cap as I'd just gassed up. I took it to the dealership, they pulled the code and it said to replace the accelerator pedal. That required a second trip to the dealership 2 weeks later when they completed the work. Two weeks later and the light came back on. I took it back and asked them to keep it until they found and fixed the root cause while I took a loaner. They kept the car about 2 weeks and when I picked it up, I found that no work had been completed. Two days (!!) later the light came back on.
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I'm on my second '15 Limited Turbo. Only have 2k miles, but I've noticed an issue with acceleration. When under hard acceleration, especially in 3rd or 4th gear, around 5k RPM the engine starts hesitating. It feels like it runs out of steam. This feeling lasts through beginning of next gear, then the car picks up again. It is actually faster when applying less throttle.
What it could be? It did it since new, I took it to the dealer once, but got some stupid response that it was just rev limiter kicking in (at 5k, right), unfortunately had no time to leave it with them again/show it to them. I also thought it might just go away on it's own, plus I don't usually drive it that hard anyway...
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I have a 2015 Somata ECO, while backing out of the drive the mailman came so I stopped (car running) closed the door went got the mail returned to the car and the doors automatically locked. This is not the first time this has happened, lucky I was at home and went inside to get the other key. What did I do wrong or how can i prevent this from happening again?
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Just got a DSG 2015 GTI 2-DOOR, and after 2 days of ownership, there is suddenly a shudder/vibration when I start the car in the morning.
RPMs start at around 1000, then drop to 750, and then 650, and the car starts to vibrate/shake a bit, almost like a heartbeat...
After engine oil temperature goes to ~80 Celsius, the shudder becomes much less pronounced. This all happens in "P", and doesn't happen in "D".
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I cant recall if these sounds were there when i first bought the car, probably because i have the radio on most times. I think the buzzing sounds were present in the last month at least.
After i start up my car and even after idling for a while, i hear a buzzing sound coming from the engine. It gets louder when I accelerate. When I let go of the gas, the buzzing sound lags for a few seconds and then quiets down a little bit, but still can hear it in the background.
I lifted the hood up to listen more closely. I am not totally sure, but i think i can also hear a faint hissing sound ( sounds like leaking air?). I cant pinpoint where it is, but its around the engine.
I also notice that when I am idle, the MPG number in the dashboard is dropping fairly quickly. Like 0.1 mpg every 20 seconds. This is new and started today. I last drove it 4 days ago and didn't notice it happening then and i watch the mpg very closely every time i drive. Could there possibly be some gas leak?
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I've been noticing that when I need to make a hard stop, I will feel a sudden engine vibration for about 1 second as soon as it comes to a complete stop. The same feeling you might get when the RPM drops too low. It only does it for like 1 second though. I am not sure if it is the gears shifting down that is causing this. I won't feel it if I am making a gradual slow stop. Only fast sudden stops.
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I have a 2015 Sonata 2.0T and I have noticed knocking noise when driving. I experience it more when on the highway/freeway. I mainly experience it during acceleration. Not hard acceleration but when I want to overtake or when the road curves and coming out of the curve -I step in the gas a bit, I hear the knock.
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