Sonata I45 (LF 2015+) :: ECO Transmission - Neutral At Stop Lights Save Gas Compared To Drive?
Sep 17, 2015
Eco Transmission. Neutral at stop lights save gas compared to Drive?
I almost feel like when I'm stopped in Drive it's actually in neutral. I'm curious if being in Neutral at really long red lights would save gas?
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Any potential issues to the transmission if always shifting the gearbox to "N" when waiting at a stop light? I noticed the car idles a lot more smoother when at N so would I'm hoping to to do this regularly if it won't hurt the transmission.
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Is it bad shifting from drive to neutral then back to drive going 40mph without pressing on the gas only coasting on a daily bases?
2008 Sonata GLS ... Automatic transmission ...
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08 Expedition... I drive an automatic and I frequently shift to neutral during down or cruise to a stop light. Does this affect the gear assembly, brakes, etc.
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I'm wondering what transmission fluid is the best to use for my 73' f100? Also wondering if changing the Fluid would stop the tranny from slipping. When i start her up reverse works great pops in every time quickly, but when i go into drive nothing happens like its in neutral?? after awhile of sitting and pressing on the gas a few times it pops in gear but very slowly and in stages.
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I drive a 1998 Ford Contour, the transmission goes into neutral on takeoff in drive, you can manually shift through the gears and get going, but not from drive.
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My fiancee has a 2005 base model and is out shopping today. She just called me and said that she is stuck in a parking lot.
She told me on the way off the highway today the "big and little" triangles came on, but the car drove fine. When she got back to her car to leave, the car would turn on presumably, but all the warning lights were on. She then said that the car would not go into drive and only into neutral.
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My 2011 Hatchback automatic has developed a whine in park, neutral and drive. ATF fluid level ok and changed by dealer every 25,000 miles. Seems to be coming from under the car. Could it be the transmission oil pump? If so, does it mean removing transmission to replace? I don't think it's the fuel pump. 62,000 miles.
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So I drive a 79' f-150 and my truck when I take left turns, start on a steeper incline or give it too much gas my automatic transmission tries to jump from drive to neutral. This only happens initially; if I'm on the free way and at a higher rate of speed it doesn't do this but it seems like when I give it any more than a little gas it tries to jump into neutral (it has once) it doesn't or hasn't really done this on right turns I don't know if that makes sense or not.
Why it may be doing this and if so what I might be able to do about it? I do have a book for my truck and I have done some small things but I don't really know a whole lot.
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Is there a bulb that lights up the shifter position on an auto transmission (floor shifter)? IF so... I have 2 that need it done but I can't find where the bulb is since it doesn't lite up any more.
The vehicles are -
1995 Geo Prizm automatic
1998 Corolla automatic
Both need to have the bulb that lites up the Park, Neutral, Drive positions of an automatic floor shifter center console. Both are similar but I cannot for the life of me find this light bulb to replace it.
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2009 Touring Dead at 55000... All lights on dash light up and won't shift to reverse or drive only neutral. Towed to dealer and they said it threw several codes and are replacing the tranny.
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I've got a 2006 F250 6.0 5R110W 4wd 220,000 miles It started getting a slight delay going into reverse and tow light flashing last week. all else functioning perfect Got a pending code P0700 and P0741 I stopped at NAPA when I was leaving no reverse checked every thing all was normal no leaks and fluid good color drove perfect in drive I got back to the shop [10 miles] put truck in park it was like its still in drive same with neutral, in reverse it wants to creep forward.
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I have read that when accelerating from a full stop, it is better to accelerate briskly, but keeping the bar graph in the ECO zone, to cruising speed is better overall for gas mileage compared to accelerating slower and taking more time to reach cruising speed....
I have also heard that it is better to accelerate using the bar graph and making sure it only goes half an inch past the ECO display above it. This way uses less RPM.
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Well here we go again. Less than 10K on my 2nd engine and yesterday the car started driving rough and shaking really bad. I thought I blew a tire or something. Then I could smell gas and oil/smoke was blowing out the rear. As I pulled off the road the engine light came on. hooked up my phone and got P0303 #3 cylinder, B2AAA, P0140, P2297. When the tow truck arrived I had to turn the car around so he could hook it up and it stalled 2x and the gas fumes were really bad. He let it sit for a while before heading out due to the concern of the amount of gas you could smell.
The dealer called back a few hours later and said they pulled the plugs and cleared the codes and the car runs great! They can't seem to find anything wrong. I'm a bit confused how I could hardly move the car 20 feet and it was blowing gas and oil out and now its fine. They still have the car as they wanted to just drive it for a while but still as of today they cant find anything. My #3 cylinder is the one that blew last time and now I'm getting the same code with a stock engine with less than 10k on the new block. Something else has to be causing this.
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I can't seem to remember if it is possible to change the drive mode from the steering wheel. In the Limited 2.0T, the drive mode is on the side console and the mode functionality on the steering wheel just changes the radio. Is this possible?
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On a manual car, I know it's not the best thing to go from neutral, completely bypass 1st gear, and shift to 2nd gear. As well as 3rd to 5th bypassing 4th. However, is it the same for downshifting into neutral or another gear? Will it hurt the transmission to go from 3rd to neutral (bypassing 1st and 2nd) when coming to a stop? I do know that shifting from 4th to 2nd gear and bypassing 3rd will harm your tranny. I just want to double check if I'm right...
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On my 2.5 SE auto, it feels like the car shifts into neutral at stop lights. Is this the case? If so, is this cause for concern. I know on my old Volvo S60, they removed this feature because it was causing premature wear with all of the extra shifting into and out of neutral.
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I shift to neutral when approaching a red light when my speed is exactly at 7 mph to save on battery power that would otherwise continue to propel the car forward. Combined with proper timing, this also allows my car to come to a complete stop without the use of brakes on flat roads. Once stopped, I immediately shift back to drive to allow the battery to charge if needed and of course in preparation for the green light.
A few sites, such as Putting your car in neutral at read lights. Good or bad? (red light, manual transmission) - Automotive -Sports cars, sedans, coupes, SUVs, trucks, motorcycles, tickets, dealers, repairs, gasoline, drivers... - City-Data Forum mention that shifting from drive to neutral at red lights, then back to drive again when the lights turn green puts wear on automatic transmissions.
Given that the Prius C has CVT, will it also wear, due to such frequent D -> N -> D shifting under the circumstances described?
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I own a 2002 Acura TL- car has 100K, i am the original owner- always maintained etc.. I am having problems with the transmission- car was in accident back in 2005, and tranny was replaced..Anyways, when i back car out and then hit it in drive, car goes to neutral. also when i drive, approach stop sign, and then accelerate, car goes to netural- dealer says need new tranny- cost is 2400 plus tax.... so i was thinking of doing that but now they say there is a leak with the oil pump- i said i dont see oil leaking they say its hitting the pan, could go in a month or in a year- cost 1200 to fix.. then he said the brake lines will need to be changed evenually- again 1000 or more.....ball joints- they quoated me 625...
So they say they will give me 500 bucks for a trade in- this car is in really good conditiion except for the supposed problems they found..If they car wouldnt have these problems i would get the tranny fixed- but i dont know what to do- ball joints dont have to be replaced- they hvae a little play.. the oil leak? I mean i have a 2000 accord that the dealer says is leaking- my private mechanic says all accords leak.
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I have a 99 f350 V10 gas dually dumper. Today while driving I stopped at a stop sign. When I went to continue the transmission seemed to be in neutral, then it caught and I drove through the intersection. It 2-3 seconds later disengaged again. I pulled over. When I attempted to put it in park it grinded. (Bad enough I just turned off the key). I checked the fluid. It was close to full and red. While in park I restarted. Truck started fine. I shifted into drive and nothing. It was like it was in neutral still. I attempted to put in park again and more grinding. Also while in park it does not hold the truck from rolling. After getting towed home I checked the tranny fluid again and it was still looking ok. I drained the transfer case also. The fluid in there was near black an appeared to have a metallic look. Does this problem seem to be just my tc or tranny issues also?
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I have a 2015 Sonata Sport 2.0T with less than 7k miles on it. I commute about 14 miles to work. During this drive, I hear a clunk/thud in the undercarriage that occurs usually 2 or 3 times each drive. It sounds like it might be coming from the wheel well. Originally I thought my tires were picking up rocks on the road and throwing them up into the wheel well. If any of you are familiar with the sound of dried mud releasing from a tire or the wheel well while driving a truck, this sound is very similar. It might just be me, but I feel like it is occurring while turning the wheel/straightening it out after a turn. Today it happened while changing lanes twice, and once taking a right hand turn semi-quickly at a green light. I know that I am not running anything over that is visible while driving.
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