Sonata I45 (LF 2015+) :: Automatic Headlight Turning On Low Beam Too Early?
Oct 26, 2014
I've been noticing this in the past week, when I'm driving about at around 5pm, the headlight would turn on if I leave the stalk on AUTO. Except it's BRIGHT daylight! Sure it's the beginning of sunset and the sun was to my side, but the amount of light is still extremely high. I see no visible difference between it and driving at noon in terms of the amount of light on the road.
Turning the lights off and on again doesn't work...The low beam does not come on when driving in the morning around 8 or noon, only in the afternoon. Even if the sunlight was shining right on the dashboard, the low beam would still be on in the afternoon.
Makes me wonder if this is a sensor calibration issue( I have nothing covering the sensor) or if it's like this by design. Making the headlight turning on extremely early so that Hyundai doesn't get sued by someone because the light "came on too late" and caused an accident. This is extremely annoying as it uses extra power to run the lights unnecessarily, and not to mention shortening the life of the bulbs. My current work around is just turning on the parking lights...sure the tail are still going to be illuminated, but better than the low beam at least.
I do want to keep the DRL on, but there is no "DRL on" option on the stalk, only "DRL off" to shut everything off. If I want DRL, but not automatic headlight, there is no way to do it, except turning on the parking lights instead.
I don't recall this issue on other brand vehicles I have owned...and about 95% of the vehicle I see coming the other way, under the same lighting condition, is running on DRL only(Assuming they have Auto headlights). What's the trigger condition for the low beam for hyundai..?
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I have a problem with our oldest Prius, a 2005 Package V. I have had an ongoing problem with the warning triangle and the headlight icon coming on and off for a few years now. Anyway, after locating the post about repairing the sensor, I finally got around to checking out the headlight height control sensor and when I opened it up, I found it to be badly corroded/ unrepairable. My local dealer wants $500+ to repair the system and I really don't need the leveling function anyway.
My headlight level has been stuck it the same position for a long time, but as luck would have it,. they are at a perfect level....Always pass State inspection, illuminate the road perfectly etc.
The problem that I now have is that the two warning icons stay lit all of the time. Is it possible to disconnect or jump wire the Headlight Level Control ECU or something else in the wiring system to disable/turn-off these two warning lights? I disconnected the corroded Height Control Sensor, but the warning lights stay lit.
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I love the car and SCC is one of my favorite features. I've had good experience with the SCC most of the time - if car in front of me is moving and then stops, it reacts well. (Also was pleased to learn I can resume SCC from a stop by just tapping the accelerator, no need to hit resume like the LCD screen implies).
However, the one situation is when I'm going like 55mph, and up ahead there's a car stopped completely. I'll see a thing on the dash that the SCC recognizes there's a car ahead, but it won't hit the breaks till the last minute. Truthfully, I end up hitting the brakes myself in most of these situations.
I've got the longest distance selected (though i've tried it with short following distance too) and my car is a Limited 2.4 GDI.
SCC stops fine if slower car ahead stops. Seems a little risky when car ahead is already stopped (waits till the last second for brakes?).
I've also tried changing the setting for cruise control response from "normal" to "fast"...maybe i'll try "slow?"
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The problem is that it appears the torque converter is locking up so early even right after getting into second gear at speeds between 20km/h and 40km/h. This causes shuddering/rattling coming from under the hood. If I am not mistaken a torque converter should lock up at speeds 80km/h+. I've never seen this behavior on any car before. I'm not sure what kind of damage is being done either by all this shuddering and rattling going on with the transmission. I feel that this should be something that needs to be addressed via some software update. Is there any software update in regards to this issue?
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For those lowered, how did you go about getting the beam height back to stock spec?
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My passenger side headlight(low beam) isn't turning on. Replaced the bulb. The light flickers and dies out.
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I bought some new bulbs for the headlights and tried to install them today. I couldn't get the bulb to come out. The manual doesn't really show how to get it out. I know how to take the wire out and that;s about it. How to take the headlight out.
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I currently have a 2011 Sonata. The drivers side low beam head light does not work. I thought it was the bulb, so I went and purchased a H7 bulb. When I replaced it with a new bulb it still did not work. The high beam works fine. So I thought I bought a bad bulb. I then tried the bulb i bought on the passenger side and low and behold the low beam worked. I then put my old bulb that I thought was bad on the passenger side and it worked.
I swapped every light bulb on the drivers side (the new one and my old ones I already had), and none of the low beams would work. I course I did move the switch to the correct position inside the card and no go. The DayTime running lights work fine, I just cant get the low beam to work on the drivers side.
I tried checking the fuses to see if i had a blown fuse and no luck. I could not find a blown fuse. Is there a fuse somewhere for the low beam light, if so I cannot find it anywhere in any manual that I have searched. I have also heard that it may be the Body Control Module.
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Are there any 2009 Sonata owners that's changed the low beam headligh bulb themselves? I need specific directions for installing. The manual instructions are not very clear.
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So the problem is that I have a jerky downshift 3-2 and 2-1 that can be felt by everyone in the car (car pushes forward on downshift) until the car warms up. When the car is warm I can feel it slightly at times and feel a clunk when shifting down 3-2 and 2-1. On up-shifts at times the shifts are shaky from 1-2 and 2-3. I have brought this forward to my dealership as well as another one. They all performed software updates and reset the adaptive learning. However every time I got my vehicle back after this procedure I found the A/C was on full blast. So the initial drive by the tech after the reset was learning while the A/C was on. Would this be causing the weird shifting I experience while the A/C is off. I seem to notice a better shifting when the A/C is on but this may just be me trying to reason why my transmission is behaving this way. I drove other 2015 Sonata's and they have much better shifting than my car and no hard jerks on downshifts.
Both dealers have felt the downshifts and have come back and simply said "We've done all the updates and reset and learning. This may just be a normal characteristic of the car." I told them that a brand new vehicle in this day and age shouldn't be shifting poorly when compared to an older vehicle with 300,000 km (my old Honda Civic which are prone to transmission failures). They responded casually saying you can go and get a second opinion from another dealership if you like. I am furious with their responses and just left it at that. I need to know how to get this resolved and if this is indeed something I should expect from my Sonata.
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I drive a 96 Subaru Legacy. What does it mean when one of the high beams is dimmer (less light output) than the low beam? I am using a brand-new bulb. It's not an adjustment issue because I was looking at the bulb when it was outside of the housing and it clearly gets dimmer when you switch to brights. However, they are equally bright when on low-beam, so I don't think its just a crossed wire.
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The passenger's side headlight is not aimed properly. Where the screws for adjusting it are?
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My car is fully stock, with all options available to me (cold weather package not available here). The low-beam triple-LED headlights are aimed way too low compared to all my previous cars, and where they should be. BUT high-beam is aimed properly. So if I adjust the low-beams up, my high-beams might end up lighting up the trees, not the road.
If adjust the headlights up on a fully stock car (not lowered at the front)? Are the high beams still lighting up the road fine? And if you can be specific as the number of turns on the screwdriver, it'd be good too to have an initial adjustment reference.
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Have a cycling type mechanical noise coming from rear driver side wheel after I turn car off. Doesn't happen all the time...
See video : [URL] ....
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I pulled into my garage yesterday and when I tried to move the transmission into Park it would not move. I tried turning the engine off and nothing would allow the transmission selector to move. I thought I would have to push something into the transmission lock slot but the only thing I had that was close to being able to fit into the small slot was the key in the FOB but it would not fit. By pure chance I happen to push on the transmission selector to the right and it moved over and then I was able to push it forward into Park. I must have pushed the selector into the sport mode when I entered the garage.
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New Splash Mud Guard Flap 4pcs 1set OEM for Hyundai Sonata 2015...I had these installed at a garage. Problem is when backing up and turning, the tire rubs against the mud guard. Is this normal?
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When I move the wheel to the left, I get this metal grinding sound (similar to rust on brake rotors/worn down brake pads). It happens when the foot is off the brake and ONLY when the wheel is turned to the left.
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2009 Sonata; about 82K miles. Drive belt was replaced in July, about 6K miles ago, by Trusted Independent Mechanic in El Paso. Now, Trusted Independent Mechanic in DC area replaced it again because one of the belt's ribs was falling apart. Attached photographs show a portion of the damage (which is only on that one ridge).
Did that belt need to be replaced?What could have caused he damage? (Mechanic says pulleys look ok; maybe defective belt.)
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I have a 2010 hyundai sonata -- I purchased brand new in May2010. I've recently been having an issue with filling up my gas tank -- the nozzle clicks off too early! I live in NJ (so i'm not pumping my own gas), so I usually tell the attendant that it should take roughly $40 worth, and they'll restart it.. but sometimes it clicks off multiple times! It's becoming more and more frequent, also! And, yesterday, I got to the point where I just told the attendant to forget it, because it clicked off 3 times in a row! But, when I started my car, I only had between half and 3/4 of a tank??
I've filled up at multiple stations and have had the same problem consistently. I commute over 100 miles a day to/from work, so I'm filling my tank every 4 or 5 days.. the car currently has a little over 20k miles on it.
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My passenger side low beam head light is dim. I changed the bulb and still have the same issue. High beams are ok.
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I am planning to replace the headlight (high beam) light of my 2006 Toyota Camry. The original OEM light lasted for nearly 6/7 years.
I noticed in some forum that "Sylvania 9005SU SilverStar Ultra High Performance Headlight Bulbs" is good, but it has short life of less than 1 year.
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