Sonata I45 (LF 2015+) :: Automatic Transmission - Jerky Downshift From 3 To 2 And 2 To 1
Jun 16, 2015
So the problem is that I have a jerky downshift 3-2 and 2-1 that can be felt by everyone in the car (car pushes forward on downshift) until the car warms up. When the car is warm I can feel it slightly at times and feel a clunk when shifting down 3-2 and 2-1. On up-shifts at times the shifts are shaky from 1-2 and 2-3. I have brought this forward to my dealership as well as another one. They all performed software updates and reset the adaptive learning. However every time I got my vehicle back after this procedure I found the A/C was on full blast. So the initial drive by the tech after the reset was learning while the A/C was on. Would this be causing the weird shifting I experience while the A/C is off. I seem to notice a better shifting when the A/C is on but this may just be me trying to reason why my transmission is behaving this way. I drove other 2015 Sonata's and they have much better shifting than my car and no hard jerks on downshifts.
Both dealers have felt the downshifts and have come back and simply said "We've done all the updates and reset and learning. This may just be a normal characteristic of the car." I told them that a brand new vehicle in this day and age shouldn't be shifting poorly when compared to an older vehicle with 300,000 km (my old Honda Civic which are prone to transmission failures). They responded casually saying you can go and get a second opinion from another dealership if you like. I am furious with their responses and just left it at that. I need to know how to get this resolved and if this is indeed something I should expect from my Sonata.
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The cruise control on my 2013 works as I expected.
However the cruise control on my 2016 Sonata does not.
When driving at highway speeds (65 to 70 mph) in cruise control and the shifter set on "D" (drive) the transmission will down shift to 4th speed whenever I go down hill.
This might be intentional as a way to keep the car from exceeding the set speed, but I have never heard of this and it would seem to place more wear an tear on the transmissions.
Do the down shifting is engineered in or if it is a service problem that I need to have addressed...
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Transmission (V-6) is slow on the upshift; and jerky on the downshift. Going uphill, the transmission does not want to downshift into a lower gear unless the accelerator is heavily depressed. So, 6th gear at like 45 mph uphill, then finally downshift into 4th with jerk downshift.
As car comes to a stop, right about 2 or 3 mph, the rpm's drop from idle to about 400; sometimes once sometimes twice. It feels like it's going to stall. Have had all the software updates.
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So I have a 2006 Hyundai accent with 75000KM on it. I notice when it shifts from 1st to 2nd gear sometimes it will jerk. It feels almost as if it goes to neutral and then sifts, causing the whole car to jerk. It use to only do it when the car was cold (first 15 min of the day) but now it seems to be doing it all the time and getting worse. I have had the transmission fluid replaced, but it doesn't seem to work.
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My 09 Sonata GLS has 50k miles on it. I bought it as a demo model with 9k on it (regret that) as new ... who knows how it was treated.
at 40k miles I noticed that in the morning when I was braking the car would feel like it was slipping out of gear momentarily and it was pretty rough. After a few minutes it would stop and I could continue on my way. The car is an automatic. I noticed it if I let the car decelerate enough that it dropped into first on its own, or if I used the brakes. I figured it must be due to the cold weather or something and was hoping it would clear up. This was only happening after 8 hours of non-use, overnight in the cold.
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I have an 04 2.7 litre V6 AWD Santa Fe with 189235 KM , with a Shiftronic transmission, recently, while in "d", the transmission would feel like its slipping or perhaps trying to down shift, its hard to tell what it's doing really, but if you then slapped it over into shiftronic, it would operate fine, no slipping, locks into gear strongly, indicating that its not mechanical, but related to the computer controlling "drive" function of the transmission, I flushed the transmission just after the symptoms arrived (using the correct SP3 fluid) and this made no difference, the old fluid, although ready to be changed, was not burnt or blackend. I thought of getting it reflashed ( read it online) but I am not sure it will work, especially if its like a sensor or something.
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Is it normal for the car to shudder when downshifting at low speeds. I have had the computer "reset" once before when this happened and the dealer said I needed to drive more aggressively so the computer would "learn" my driving habits. I honestly am more interested in good gas mileage, so consequently I do not blast off from stops. Service manager said I needed to push it a little harder. Is this BS or is there some software adjustment that the dealer can make?
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Car intermittently shifts very rough and jerky. Just took on a long vacation trip and every AM when it was cold it shifted hard them smoothed out once warmed up. Got home and now it is doing it all the time. Dealer said do the trans flush...I did it and it made no difference. Is this a common problem with this model? Mileage is 39,800...not sure I want to buy this car at lease end.
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I've been noticing this in the past week, when I'm driving about at around 5pm, the headlight would turn on if I leave the stalk on AUTO. Except it's BRIGHT daylight! Sure it's the beginning of sunset and the sun was to my side, but the amount of light is still extremely high. I see no visible difference between it and driving at noon in terms of the amount of light on the road.
Turning the lights off and on again doesn't work...The low beam does not come on when driving in the morning around 8 or noon, only in the afternoon. Even if the sunlight was shining right on the dashboard, the low beam would still be on in the afternoon.
Makes me wonder if this is a sensor calibration issue( I have nothing covering the sensor) or if it's like this by design. Making the headlight turning on extremely early so that Hyundai doesn't get sued by someone because the light "came on too late" and caused an accident. This is extremely annoying as it uses extra power to run the lights unnecessarily, and not to mention shortening the life of the bulbs. My current work around is just turning on the parking lights...sure the tail are still going to be illuminated, but better than the low beam at least.
I do want to keep the DRL on, but there is no "DRL on" option on the stalk, only "DRL off" to shut everything off. If I want DRL, but not automatic headlight, there is no way to do it, except turning on the parking lights instead.
I don't recall this issue on other brand vehicles I have owned...and about 95% of the vehicle I see coming the other way, under the same lighting condition, is running on DRL only(Assuming they have Auto headlights). What's the trigger condition for the low beam for hyundai..?
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2011 Sonata Limited ... I have just under 60k miles and did a tranny drain and refill at 24k and 55k. Just had the brake light switch replaced. For some reason when cruising with the car in overdrive, if I let off the gas to decelerate and ease into the gas again, I get a real hard down shift and shift. So every time I get on the gas again it is either kicking out of overdrive or downshifting and shifting back immediately. 99% of the time it is a hard thump. When I have the cruise set I do not notice this at all. It does it in ECO or out of ECO. This is new and I started noticing this after the brake switch replacement.
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Well, After reading about the weird transmission issues these cars have...mine finally started to do it. It will clunk, shake the car when it shifts and downshift for no apparent reason. All of this does NOT happen all the time. The noises that come from my transmission do though.
I can have the car in Drive and have my foot on the brake and I can hear a grinding/low power steering fluid like sound that comes and goes. Its worse when I shift from Park to Reverse though. It sounds like air being released followed by a bunch of faint grinding noises.
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I have an 06 sonata 4 cyl automatic.Today the transmission was slipping in first gear like the car was revving in neutral.Then after restarting the car it was completely normal. Code P0731 showed up.
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I have a 4 cylinder 2009 Sonata with an automatic transmission and it does not accelerate smoothly when starting out from idle. A slight touch on the accelerator pedal causes the motor to accelerate hard as though the pedal was pushed down a lot further than "a slight touch". Is this normal or should this car accelerate smoothly? I am wondering if there is a common problem with either the accelerator pedal sensor or maybe with the throttle servo.
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I own a 06 sonata with 95000 miles. Recently I've been having issues with my transmission. It occurs only at slow speed when i travel in first gear. What happens is when the car is moving, it feels like it shifts into neutral but indicator still shows D in the cluster. I press the accelerator nothing happens it just revs,no increase in speed whatsoever.
So that rules out slipping issues. Now i narrowed the problem down a little more whenever the problem crops up i shift the gear lever into sports mode, i feel a jerk and car shifts into first gear and it moves. If i dont shift into sports mode it catches gear in about 7 seconds.No fault codes.
And if i rev it high transmission goes into limp mode and stays in 3rd gear till i restart the car.Then i get P0731 incorrect first ratio.Changed ATF 7000 miles ago. Could it be a faulty range sensor?
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When coming to a quick stop the transmission has a shutter upon downshifting the shutters when you accelerate quick off of a stop light or stop sign. Also quick left hand turn hear a clunk coming from left side wheel. 2015 Sonata Sport 2.4L
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I leased my 2015 Sonata Turbo w/ Ultimate Package back in November. Experiencing flare ups between shifts in the transmission. Every once in a while, specifically when cold, I will get a slight hesitation and slip in between gears 2 and 3. It doesn't happen too often, so I'm not that concerned about it..just wanted to see if others have seen the same thing.
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Been noticing in my 2016 Sport that there seems to be a lot of "play" in the transmission. Don't really know a better word for it. When I reverse out of my garage and put the car in drive, the car rolls back a bit. Like it's pausing a few seconds before going into gear. Don't want to take it back to the dealer a look a fool because it's "normal".
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I recently inherited this car from a relative, I had it and two other vehicles she owned towed to my house about a week ago. The Sonata has under 1000 miles on it and I found a stack of repair orders from the dealer where she complained that the car wouldn't move or where it had been towed after getting stuck at an intersection while driving.
What is happening is that when I get in the car, with the engine cold, it starts up and drives fine. Then with no pattern or warning, when I stop at an intersection, the transmission acts as if its in neutral. It won't go into any gear, regardless of where I put the shifter. Its got the 2.4L GDI motor. and an automatic trans.
I had to tow it 5 times now. I took it to the local dealer and they found nothing wrong, no codes, and couldn't reproduce the problem. Yet when I went to pic it up, it did it a block from the dealer, I had to push the car to the shoulder at the light. I walked to the dealer, they had a tech come out to the car and by the time he got there the problem was gone. I took it home, and when I got home, I shut it off, then tried starting it and moving it again and nothing, it wouldn't move at all, no forward, no reverse. I find that if I cycle the key, on and off, sometimes the issue will go away instantly. I also never does it cold, only after driving it a bit. It has never done anything wrong while driving at speed, only when coming to a stop and trying to move again.
When it happens, the shifter moves fine, the engine revs and there are no warning lights on the dash, it just acts like its in neutral regardless of what gear the shifter is in. It doesn't creep or pull at all, there's no movement at all when it acts up and I have to drive it to get it to do it, it can idle in the driveway all day and won't do it till I take it down the road and come to a stop and try to start moving again.
Out of frustration I bought a scan tool to see what's up but as long as the scan tool is plugged in, it doesn't act up. I've been driving it for two days without it doing it. Thinking it may be just coincidence, I unplugged the scan tool, took a ride and it did it at the first intersection, I had to shut the car off, plug in the scanner to get the car back home. I called the dealer and was told that this was impossible.
I'm starting to feel like I'm on my own with this one since the dealer seems to not be able to find the issue. I am really having a hard time believing that the dealer can't make it act up but if they're plugging a scan tool in, and driving it, maybe that's why?
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As I was entering a highway onramp today, the transmission stuck and didn't shift between what I'm guessing was 3rd and 4th gear. It was revving at about 5000 RPM and stayed there.
After what felt like about 10 seconds, it got its act together and shifted and the revving stopped.
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Recently started experiencing a hard downshift after driving for 30 minutes, and only from 2nd to 1st. No other shift issues with other gears, up or down.
When moving over to manual shifting, it doesn't appear to have the issue when downshifting in manual.
I replaced the radiator about 2 weeks ago due to a serious leak, and the shifting problem wasn't an issue before as I would have noticed.
Going to start with the fluid lvl, but it feels odds with it occurring during the downshift to 1st.
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My 2015 Subaru Legacy will randomly downshift, when in Automatic, only on LEFT turns! The dealership says there is a sensor that is "overly sensitive" but now it is a safety concern when pulling out into traffic. I never know if it will occur. Most of the time it will shift back into automatic on its own but there have been times where i have had to use the shifter paddles to shift up then it will kick back into automatic. It only has 31,000 miles, bought it used with 18,000 miles. I have also noticed if I don't accelerate slowly, it seems slow to shift automatically and reduce RPM's. I don't want 36,000 mile warranty to bypass without this resolved.
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