Sonata I45 (LF 2015+) :: AC Only Pumped Out Cold Air When It Was On Max Settings
Jul 14, 2015
When I test drove a Sonata Eco last week, I noticed that the AC only pumped out cold air when it was on the "Max AC" setting. As soon as I moved the knob up a bit - still well in the blue territory, mind you - warmish air started coming from the vents. Basically felt like just the fan was on. Power-wise, it was set to "2".
Is this something that's common among Sonatas, or Eco's in particular? Or is this possibly just a result of the car sitting on the lot for a while, and maybe the AC needs a recharge? Living in Florida, good AC is obviously an absolute requirement, and I shouldn't need to keep it on Max all the time just to ensure cold air.
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Seeing issues with A/C not getting cold? I thought it felt a little warmer than it should, and then my wife got in my car and instantly called it out, and now it is pretty close to room temp. air....Could it be low pressure in the lines? Or the fluid itself (freeon...? =s) ?
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I have a Limited with auto-climate. Temp is at 73 outside temp is 90. So obviously it is not just sucking in outside air. But with the AC light on I can tell the compressor is cycling as it pulls on the engine and vibrates the car more than if it is off. But with it off I am still getting cold air. How?
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Noticed that when drive Sonata cold without having it warmed up and you hit the accelerator even a little bit that it 'jerks' back a bit? Once the car is warmed up you don't feel it anymore.
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So I brought the Sonata home and she sat in the garage for 5 days as I was traveling. Then when I got back, I was so eager to take her for a drive. At this point she only had 72 miles on the Odometer. When I started her up, I thought the engine sounded rougher and louder than usual. My other car is a Turbo Diesel and that does not make this loud a clatter. After a few minutes of idling and driving, the engine quietened down quite a bit.
Video of the sound at cold start up.
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I am a proud and recent owner of a 2015 Sonata Sport 2.0T!
Car looks amazing and am very happy with it.
But lately I have been noticing lots of drone noise coming from the engine, and a really loud cold start as well. The "cold start loudness" goes away after a little bit of driving.
Was wondering if this is just the way the 2.0T sounds, or should i get it checked?
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I seem to be having an issue with my air conditioning. I don't think it's an ID-10T error, but it is very peculiar.
My driver side vents blow hot or lukewarm air, however my passenger vents are ice cold. I have the 15 limited, so it does have the "dual" control, and as such I think the issue may be related to that.
Both controls are set to low, max fan, head only, and AC. The "Sync" and "Auto" buttons have no effect.
Any things I can check? I really do not want to bring it into the dealer as they treated me very poorly the last time I came in and my car was out for a month.
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Suddenly yesterday, my AC was blowing hot air on every setting except for Max AC. When on Max AC, then heater control valve closes but with just AC, it opens back up. for floor, defrost, etc. seems to work just fine, but it blows engine hot air at those places except for Max AC.
It seems as though the temperature control is stuck in hot or quit working all together, AND (I'm guessing here) that Max AC overrides the temperature control? That's the only thing that make sense to me.
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At 60k mi. A/c works fine then next day won't blow cold on usual settings. Then works fine again for months and probably over a year. Now at 72K mi same problem. Is this a switch or something since I am not hearing the a/c clutch engage? Hopefully tomorrow it works as it starts up again after a day or two. What could be going bad or is loose?
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I have no heat in the LS at no settings. The AC runs good but does not seem to be regulated as it blows cold at any temp setting. The fan responds to settings but i still get no heat even with the AC turned off. I would like to find a diagram that shows the locations of the bleed valves to start a coolant air bleed.
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My 2008 Elantra blows cold air, but just not as hard as it used to. At max setting, it's not blowing hard enough.
Also, my steering wheel starts to shake pretty bad going 70+ mph. What could be the problem for this?
I don't know the first thing about cars!
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My 2007 Lexus ES350 with 81,000 miles on it has a very low frequency squeak when the heater is first cold or on low. When I turn up the fan above the lowest setting the squeak will go away. I checked my cabin air filter but it appears to be clean & newly replaced.
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99 f250 4x4 7.3 superduty has no heat. A/c seems to work ok had similar problem last year and replaced heat control switch in dash. Same thing this year, a/c works fine but no heat when turned to red or heat setting. Blower works fine just blows cold air. What may be sticking? Getting cold in MD and (excuse me but) Johnson goes full turtle on my morning ride to work.
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I have a 2011 Avalon Limited and live in the Dallas area. Are used the auto setting on my thermostat all the time. I noticed that in cold weather, the AC almost always switches on as part of the thermostat function. I don't understand that. For example, its 30 degrees outside, & I select Auto and set the temperature to 70 degrees, and the green AC light goes on. I want to avoid using more gas than I need to use, so I'm wondering why this might be so. It's a simple matter to simply press the AC and turn it off, but I'm wondering why it goes on in the first place.
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Possible to change the setting for the auto mode for the headlight to come on when it gets dark? I've always thought that they don't come on soon enough, particularly in heavy rain or towards sunset when I see many other cars with headlights on.
Couldn't find a section in the manual, but wondered if there was any undocumented tweak I could perform to get the lights to come on sooner so I can leave in in auto mode and not worry about it.
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So I just got my sonata back from the dealer, they fixed an intermediate problem i was having with the starter solenoid when it rained. car wouldn't turn over when key was turned for about 20 clicks.. (free under warranty and got a loaner!) new starter and solenoid!
But when I got my car back i noticed a new humming coming from the AC (passenger side dash) when it was on high.. i never really noticed it before.. do you think this could be from the cabin filter? or the tech that worked on the car messed with the blower?
I was thinking about going back to the dealer and asking my service advisor about the noise.. and if he said it was normal i would walk over to the sales dept and ask to test drive one of their NF's to see if the AC made the same noise.. and either leave the dealer knowing it's a normal sound, or drive the test vehicle up to the service advisor and ask him why this sonata doesn't make that noise?
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I have a 2005 and a 2007 Prius. I just bought the 2007 used with ~140k, and I have only owned the 2005 for about 10 months, so I am a relatively new Prius owner. I have noticed that the 2007 makes the buzz/rattle sound that is the coolant being pumped to the ICE (I believe) far more often than the 2005. The 2005 does it once every 10 minutes maybe. The 2007 does it constantly. On for three seconds, off for three seconds, on for three seconds...
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I have a 1997 GTI with 140K miles and standard transmission with a problem. I have taken it to a mechanic but to no avail. At random times, usually between 2nd and 3rd gear and sometimes in 1st gear, the car will jerk as if the car has no fuel being pumped to the engine. The mechanic told me that it could be several problems and recommended having the CO2 sensor changed. Since having the monitor changed the car was performing better but yesterday it died in traffic and did not start again for 30 minutes. At this point I do not want to pump any more money into the car before fully understanding the problem and potential solution. I also know that for a full diagnostic I will need to provide more information.
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I have a 2003 Subaru Forester, bought it this past January. Got 163,000 miles on it, and we've driven it mostly around town. Over the last month, it has developed an intermittent problem with stalling and rough "putt-putt" running, and will only keep running if the gas pedal gets pumped. This seems to happen about every other time we turn it on, but without a pattern. It can be running fine, and then switch mode, as it were, to running rough and tending to stall. I've gotten ignition codes (check engine light came on and I had my guy check it out on the computer) twice. My mechanic (a long-term Subaru mechanic) has checked out the injectors, and replaced the head gasket, but the problem has not changed. I'm thinking that this may be an electronics issue or possibly something in the gas tank/line.
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Last week I started having problems with my 05 Accent, hatchback, 1.6L engine, automatic transmission. Filled the tank up with gas and the car stalled pulling out of the station and wouldn't start unless I pumped the gas while cranking the engine. Ran and started fine after that and I thought it may have just been an air bubble in the fuel line, since there wasn't a check engine light or any other symptoms after that. Fast forward to this morning and the check engine light comes on during my commute and when I checked it, it gave an EVAP code (P0441). I also stopped to refill the gas and it stalled again as I was leaving the station. Also after I measured the gas mileage I found that I'd lost around 7 mpg (from around 30 to around 23).
I've never heard of EVAP problems causing stalling and loss of gas mileage but I'm not all that familiar with these systems so I don't really know. I'm going to test if it's the gas cap going bad since on the list of things that could cause a P0441 that seems to be the easiest place to start, but other than that where to start looking?
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I have a 94 honda civic. It's been having problems starting. When it won't start you have to pump the gas a lot and it will then start. You can smell a lot of fuel when this happens so unsure if it is the pump. Maybe it's a combination of several things. Replaced spark plugs, new wires connecting to battery. And just put in a new fuel filter. All seemed to slightly work for a minute. But now driving today went to start the car and it wouldn't stay running if I let go of the key. Finally got it to stay on seemed fine then as I was driving and wasn't pressing on the gas peddle the car started losing power so I pressed the peddle it sputtered (kinda sounded like something clogged in tail pipe) and regained power.
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