I've driven 32k miles now, and I'm having an acceleration problem. It does not happen everyday, maybe once a month. but once I start accelerating hard to merge onto highway, it shifts down and rpm goes up but the speed remains the same.
View 7 RepliesHere's the story, noise first appeared while accelerating to merge onto highways and then applying gentle braking. Sounded like "seagulls". Not my description. To me it sounded like a rubbing pulsating noise. Would not go away unless you came to a full stop. Then would appear again every other time you entered highway at, say, 85 and applied brakes to slow down to 75-80.
The kicker is, that was 35+k miles ago. Annoying, but three different dealerships never found anything and the service techs always made big eyes once you mentioned 85+ mph. "Oh, we can't legally replicate that"
Fast forward to now (meanwhile rotors changed, pads, tires) - the noise seems to appear randomly at lower speeds. It is also quieter (barely noticeable above 65).
Example from today - left dealership sporting new tires and a fresh proper 4-wheel alignment.
After accelerating to ~50 noticed the sound. Couple miles down the road stopped, made a U-turn - sound gone. Could not replicate for a while. Then had it twice on "straight and level" segments, seemingly random. On cruise control at 55 (hear it the best at that speed) sounds stay the same regardless of rpm (6-5-4 gear - no changes). Pulsating gets quicker-slower with speed. Very gently decelerated to 25 - noise went away completely, pedal to the metal back to 60 - no noise.
I'm at a complete loss as for what it can be. Turning makes no impact, no play on bearings (and I'm pretty sure those would have died long ago if it was them), rotors changed with zero impact, tires too.
Changes over time - got quieter and started to appear at lower speeds.
All stock except for H&R Sport springs on stock shocks. 88000 miles
Cars are very "wobbly" on the highway when it's very windy out?
View 21 RepliesSo about 5 months ago I started feeling vibrations in my seat and steering wheel. I got my tires road force balanced and it solved the issue. I just got back from a weeks long vacation in Maine. Before I left I had the tires road force balanced again to ensure a smooth ride up. I left some shaking in my seat so I wanted to get it ironed out.
While driving up my seat and the entire cabin shook when I exceeded 70 MPH, it got worse and worse the faster I went. The steering wheel didn't shake at all. I figured the tech balancing the tires did a bad job so I visited the BJ's in Portland. They re-balanced all my tires, I was present when the job was being done and noticed they were all out of balance.
The BJ's tech said it look like the shop that did the balancing over balanced each wheel (too much weight on each wheel). As soon as I hit the highway the same thing happened, shaking above 70MPH. At this point I determined it was probably a bent wheel. I visited a local wheel repair shop, they checked out both my rear wheels, since the steering wheel wasn't shaking I didn't bother checking the front ones.
It turns out both rear wheels are ever so slightly bent, they attempted the straighten out the more bent one. They tech repairing the wheel said he was surprised I even felt anything at all. So I had my hopes up that the problem would be fixed but as soon as I hit the road the same shaking returned. At this point, what's wrong with my car. I'm thinking of buying 4 new wheels, the car came from the factory with low profile 18 inch wheels which have been a curse.
A few more details about my car:
Toyo Proxes 4 Plus - Ultra high performance tires (Maybe contribute to harsh ride?) 20K miles on them
Installed thicker 20mm rear sway bar 6 months ago (But I never had shaking until now)
Installed front tower strut bar 6 months ago.
Total mileage 32K
I have hit lots of pot holes the past 2 winters lost 2 OEM tires and bent 1 wheel last year which was repaired.
Also I can't drive through it, the shaking doesn't stop with more speed it only gets worse. And the back end has started to feel squirrely over bumps.
I just picked up a Sport. I've noticed 1,2 quick stutter type thing happening intermittently at highway speed going up a hill. Dealer service probably won't be able to have it happen as it only has happened 3 times in my 400 miles.
View 9 RepliesMy problem is this: if I accelerate quickly (either flooring it or close to it), then once I reach about 55-65mph the car suddenly jerks horribly. Sometimes it's one big jerk, other times it's several small jerking movements. ECO transmission ...
It's not a problem at speeds under 50mph, but it seems once I cross that 50-55mph threshold, I can't put my foot all the way down or I will get the jerking. It will also occur if I'm going say, 60mph and need to quickly get to 75-80mph. The first time this happened, I was accelerating onto a highway and the car jerked so badly that I thought I had gotten rear-ended.
Well, my MIL came on, and hasn't left (yes, my gas cap was tightened). My bigger concern is that when I'm on the highway, if I have to slow down for traffic, upon accelerating again, when I hit 108km/h, the car does a crazy death shudder, and slows down...I have to release the pedal, let it slow to around 95, and then I can accelerate again. I'm gunna wait and see if the light goes off after a couple of days, but this is worrying.
View 25 RepliesI have a 2015 Sonata SE 2.4L with 15k miles. Sometimes when accelerating, and almost always when accelerating uphill, the vehicle makes a noise that I can best describe as sounding like a grumbling or rattle from the engine. It almost has a "diesel engine" sound to it. I have noticed this going back to when the vehicle was brand new, but I have recently noticed it more.
View 11 Replies2016 2.4 limited. the trunk takes a lot of force to close....
View 9 RepliesNoticed that the A/C blows harder when you are braking? Is this normal or should I take it in? I have a 2016 Sonata Sport.
View 19 RepliesTonight while driving and accelerating fairly hard we began to hear a noise. The car sat parked for roughly 5 hours and then we began to drive it home (apx. 12-15 miles). About halfway through the drive the power steering went out and the battery light came on. The battery light would turn off and the drivers seatbelt light would come on even while it was buckled. These two lights alternated being on and off 2 times each. We heard something that sounded like a rock got kicked up into a wheel well. After getting the car home with no power steering we noticed the car had begun to run very hot. almost all the way up the gauge.
View 4 RepliesI'm on my second '15 Limited Turbo. Only have 2k miles, but I've noticed an issue with acceleration. When under hard acceleration, especially in 3rd or 4th gear, around 5k RPM the engine starts hesitating. It feels like it runs out of steam. This feeling lasts through beginning of next gear, then the car picks up again. It is actually faster when applying less throttle.
What it could be? It did it since new, I took it to the dealer once, but got some stupid response that it was just rev limiter kicking in (at 5k, right), unfortunately had no time to leave it with them again/show it to them. I also thought it might just go away on it's own, plus I don't usually drive it that hard anyway...
I've been noticing that when I need to make a hard stop, I will feel a sudden engine vibration for about 1 second as soon as it comes to a complete stop. The same feeling you might get when the RPM drops too low. It only does it for like 1 second though. I am not sure if it is the gears shifting down that is causing this. I won't feel it if I am making a gradual slow stop. Only fast sudden stops.
View 27 RepliesI recently bought a 2004 Hyundai Sonata 4cyl with about 65k miles. In the past few months I've noticed that it likes to sputter and hesitate at times, mostly in lower gears when I'm not accelerating hard. At highway speeds it's mostly fine. It's also fairly random - some days it's really bad and others it's fine. Also seems worse when in reverse. I don't think the plugs have been changed so that's one idea, but I'm wondering if it's a bad fuel filter, exhaust manifold leak or something else. It's not throwing any codes (and yes the light works) and it has never stalled completely out.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2007 Sonata 3.3 V6 GLS (CDN model) with 102k km (63K miles). Recently, I am noticing a rotational metal-like grinding noise from the front left wheel / engine area when engaging in hard right and left turns - usually a long looped highway on-ramp or sharp 90 degree turns. The interesting thing is this only happens when I am accelerating through the turns - when I left off the gas and cruise I don't hear it anymore.
On the side, I am also getting a single clunk noise when shifting from Park to Drive and vice versa from the same area (front left wheel) - not sure if this is related (i.e. if this is all related to a failing CV joint or wheel bearing).
I have about 3400 miles on my Sonata 2.0T, and I have experienced a long crank with (puttering in between), and does not start, twice occurrence thus far. I have no warning lights, no lamps (SES) that stay on afterward, nothing at all. I have had to press the "start/stop" button again to make it stop, then let it sit for a few seconds press the button again, re-cranks, and starts this time. I know that if take to the dealer they will not find anything wrong since most concerns they have to duplicate in order to diagnose. The SES light is not on, so I know we have no fault codes to go by. Sounds as if the fuel pump is crapping out, or no spark is being generated.
View 8 RepliesJust as the title states, how do you start your vehicle if you are out and your key fob dies? Is there a method to start the vehicle without having the spare on you?
BTW, what is approximate battery life for the 2015 sonata key fob?
I have a Mazda 3 5-door and I believe it is a 2010 model year, with between 50k-70k miles. I've been, I believe, consistent with regular maintenance schedules, and this is the first issue I've had, and I've been having it for a bit of time now (a few weeks). I've tried various things to try and understand the issues that bring it up.
First, I don't remember if this started before or after, but my "Check Engine" light popped on. I brought it in to have the code read and it was the one for the gas cap not being on properly. The person reset the diagnostic code, tightened the cap, and I went on my way.
A few hours later it came back. Okay, but that's not the issue, and I mention it only because of the other things I've observed.
The real problem is, after I've been driving for "awhile" at highway speeds, and I add fuel, the car has a very difficult time starting. I have to really press the accelerator down to get it to start, and even then it can take a good 5 seconds of holding the key to "start".
Things I've noticed:- If I fill up at the start of a trip, so that the car hasn't been running long, I can fill up and the car starts immediately.- I thought it might be a problem with fuel spilling over into the overflow, so I've added less fuel (so I ended with the needle pointing between 3/4 and full) but it still had trouble starting- After I start it, it runs rough for a bit and I feel like I have to rev it to keep it from stalling, though I haven't left it to idle to see if it actually will stall.- After the difficult start, if I drive as little as down a city block, turn the car off, and back on, it has no trouble starting, nor does it stutter like it does when I fill it up.- If I take a long drive but don't add any fuel, it starts up right away.
I've always used 87 octane fuel, which seems to work fine, and I feel as though that's the recommended grade, isn't it? I also try to fill it up when the needle reads 1/4 of a tank or a bit more, but I do notice that, if I allow the pump to auto-shutoff the car will accept 9-10 gallons (and I thought it was a 10.5 gallon tank, which is less than 1/4 left... I'm not sure how bad that is...)
What it could possibly be? Or even additional tests I could try to narrow it down?
Ok, heres my issue. '11 crew cab f150, 4x4 5.0L. 108K miles Yesterday got in my truck to leave and it would crank, idle very rough with RPMs fluctuating then die. Did this several times til it stayed cranked long enough for me to press the accelerator to keep it cranked. Headed out down the road and it drove fine. Then upon accelerating I'd hear a noise like rocks in a tin can. Every time I accelerated it would do this. Drove to a mechanic. He drove it, heard it and told me to bring it back today because he was covered up. The rattle sound is similar to valves ticking, but worse.
I got up under it and looked for loose skid plates and loose exhaust components and could find nothing. Took it for another drive,engaged the 4x4 to 4H, drove it for a minute, went back to 2H and the sound was all but gone. Went ahead and filled up with premium gas. (had an 89 ranger that would only run on premium so thought i'd try it) Drove home. the noise was gone. Got up this morning. The truck hesitated to start. took three tries, then fired up normally. then drove it....no problems. no noise, everything normal. Don't wanna take it to the mechanic, if there is no apparent problem now. What's going on with my truck?
Noticed that when drive Sonata cold without having it warmed up and you hit the accelerator even a little bit that it 'jerks' back a bit? Once the car is warmed up you don't feel it anymore.
View 11 RepliesI recently bought a used 2015 F250. When the fuel level reached 1/4 tank it became hard to start. Sometimes up to 6 seconds of cranking to get it to start. I filled it up with fresh diesel and it fired up as soon as I turned the key. A week later the problem returned, this time I was above 1/2 tank. I run the recommended additives, I changed both fuel filters, but it didn't work. I have only had the truck 3 weeks, and it still has a warranty. There are no fault codes, and the truck run great once started. What could be wrong.
View 7 Replies