Sonata NF (2006-10) :: Transmission Jerks When Downshifting (intermittent)
Dec 18, 2010
My daughter has a 2010 Sonata with a 4 cylinder and an automatic transmission. She is pretty frustrated with an intermittent problem. Every once in awhile, especially if the engine is cold, the car jerks while slowing down. She believes it is the transmission when it down shifts. I have driven the car and have not been able to duplicate the problem myself. The dealer recently changed the mapping for the transmission in hopes that would work but it hasn't. The dealer hasn't been able to duplicate the condition either.
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I have an 09 Sonata that jerks when automatically down shifting just before coming to a stop or slowing to make sharp turn. Car has 130k miles and I've never changed transmission fluid. BTW...it's been a GREAT car!
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VW replaced my entire transmission and it still jerks into gear when downshifting to a stop or hitting the gas hard while coasting!
Also, I swear there is now binding while turning a la moteur stepper. New tranny. New rear drive shaft. Allegedly new transfer case (I cannot confirm this though). New new new programming. And still the darned thing vibrates by butt with a downshift that a Bettle with 300,000 miles on the clock would not dare make.
Any reference to the operation of the transmission and the sequencing of the various clutches and other coupling devices with respect to gear selection and engine conditions?
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I've been driving my wife's sonata to work this week and notice as I start to slow down at around 20MPH the car almost surges a little bit. Maybe I am not diagnosing it correctly but it's almost like it's downshifting rough.
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When coming to a quick stop the transmission has a shutter upon downshifting the shutters when you accelerate quick off of a stop light or stop sign. Also quick left hand turn hear a clunk coming from left side wheel. 2015 Sonata Sport 2.4L
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I'm having in not being able to downshift manually. I can shift up with no problem. I have 116,000 miles on my Sonata that I purchased new 8 years ago. I had the (4 cylinder) tranny flushed about 18,000 miles ago. No other issues.
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i drained the 30000 mile fluid two weeks ago because it was harsh downshifting when coming to a stop... I was curious if others noticed a lot of metal sludge sticking to the magnetized drain plug???..
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2009 Hyundai Sonata automatic: When downshifting from 4th to 3rd it feels like I hit a bump, or like I just hit the brakes hard for a second.
What could it be? It's most noticeable when the car is cold. I have 82k miles on it, so it's still in the "power train warranty".
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I have a 2006 Hyundai Sonata GLS V6. Recently the area I live in received 2 feet of snow and ice. I of course cleaned off all the snow and ice and started her up. I didn't drive anywhere that day since the roads were not clear. The next day I drove 15 minutes and upon reaching my destination's parking lot, the Sonata went into a jerking motion.
It seemed as if it wanted to stall out, like I was driving a manual. However it's an automatic. I stopped the car, and later when I went to leave it did it again. Once I got out of the parking lot and above speeds of 20 mph everything was fine. No more jerking motion.
The next day, after some time driving it does it again. My car never actually "stalls" or shuts off, it just jerks and once I can press the gas and go, it stops.
There are no odors or sounds and the car only does the jerking motion sometimes.
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I have a 1999 Passat 1.8t manual transmission... My car shakes like it's going to stall and sometimes actually stalls when I come near to a complete stop. The car drives really bad... it jerks when downshifting and on accelerating... The performance of the car is crap. also When i put the car into neutral and coast to a stop, the revs will bounce up and down. I posted a couple months ago about this problem and I was told to clean the throttle body. I then cleaned my throttle body and replaced the gasket. This problem went away for about 5 days and then was back again. This problem is the worse when I go to school, which is when it's about 45 degrees outside.
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Upshifting is fine, downshifting gives me a big thud. Bigger from 3rd-2nd smaller 2nd-1st (I think).
2006 GS430. 120k or so miles.
Dealership replaced solenoid #2, but now say I need a whole new transmission.
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When I slow down to stop my 2008 Sonata it jerks. It is an intermittent issue. The car has 95,000 miles and when I called the dealer I was told they would start with changing the transmission fluid and go from there. I read on some other posts of this same type of issue being fixed by installing the latest software for the transmission, but this was related to 2009 & 2010 Sonatas. Is it possible that installing some new software would work on my 2008?
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My Hyundai is giving me a major headache. I bought a 2009 sonata used a few months back. Not long after I got it, I was having issues with it jerking around 20 mph. Sometimes, it would have a few issues with it jerking some when I was taking off. This was only right after the car was started. I took it to a local Aamco. The guy told me that it was a 2-1 downshift pump. He "relearned" the transmission and the problem went away. Now, it is back. At the time, he did some research and thought it may stem from a calibration update they had issued. He didn't have the Hyundai software to try that fix.
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I have a 2006 F150 4x4. When the engine an transmission is cold it jerks/ Bogs when it shifts. After it warms up it doesn't jerk to bad sometimes but you can still notice it. Also when it shifts the RPM's drop low causing it to bog and jerk. RPM's will go from 1600 to about 800 when it shifts. It is and auto transmission. Today I wanted to try something so I pressed the button to turn the over drive off. Well it shift real good with the OD Off. Seem like with the OD Off it keeps the RPM's up a little higher so it doesn't bog and jerk. I put an Edge Programmer on it, but that didn't work. Still does the same thing with or without the programmer. I changed all my spark plug and coil packs. Truck goes great until it shifts.
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2007 with 3.3L at 30k miles (bought new and with regular oil changes) starting throwing p0018's intermittently. No noticeable difference in way the car drives: idle seems fairly normal (only once recently felt the idle briefly stumble at a red light), fuel consumption regular, no power problems. There has been a engine tapping sound at low speeds only heard until the engine warms up after a couple of miles (I'm in Florida, temp is regular in the 70-80's), and the sound is not evident during the start-up, only while accelerating slowly.
On occasion, with hard acceleration, the "ESC 0ff" light comes on, not affected by the ESC off switch, and stays off after one key turn.
Brought to Hyundai dealer who, same day, requested doing an oil/filter change (Firestone had done a change 900 miles/3 months prior) claiming that a wrong oil filter could cause blocked oil galleys. They did the change (and also, no charge, repaired a valve cover leak) and 6 days later called to tell me the car was fine. No mention of the car having been low on oil or evidence of sludging. Also, no mention of whether or not the filter that was replaced was the incorrect filter for the vehicle. (I called Firestone and they claim they regular work with Hyundai to ensure proper filters are used). No mention of why they kept the car for an additional 5 days after the oil change before calling either (except for repairing the valve cover leak with a rocker cover gasket), and although their invoice indicated that they drove the car 5 miles, it was evident from the invoice that the mile in/miles out were the same. I did notice that there was about 2-3 gallons of fuel consumption though when I picked the car up.
6 miles from the dealer after pickup (2 key turns) CEL returns, with same code. I have now driven the car about 100 miles in the last 20 days with the CEl going off and on 4 times now, and each time the same code. I have never had the CEL come on (or go off) while driving, only at start-up. (Longest trip has been 10 miles, top speed 50mph, so a lot of key turns). The longest the CEL has stayed off was for a 30 mile span. The tapping sound mentioned above continues too.
I'm hesitating returning to the dealer. The 10 yr warranty might be a problem for a variety of reasons, and I realise finding the fix for this code could get expensive. But I do want to know what the dealer found out doing their GDS (and via eyes on inspection) and nothing was mentioned on the invoice besides the gasket leak. I'm especially concerned about the timing chain and tensioner.
Is it acceptable to make an appointment with the service manager to find out what they ruled out (and then take that information to a regular mechanic)? Given the problem is regularly intermittent over the last 100 miles, is it still possible that something might be seriously wrong with the engine and damage might be done to the engine by driving it? When I first brought the car to the dealer, they said they couldn't do anything with it because the CEL had gone out. Fortunately, within a mile from the dealer the CEL returned and they took it in. Presently, the light is out again.
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This is a 2006 Hyundai Sonata w/ 3.3 engine. 62,000 mi. The air bag warning light on dash comes on and goes off intermittently.
What causes this? What can I check? Is there really a problem?
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I need to replace my girlfriend's starter on her 2006 Sonata 3.3 V6. Her car is having the intermittent starting thing that i noticed some others are. We've already replaced the battery and the starter relay. The relay worked for a while but the car is back to having issues intermittently again. I figured I'd replace the starter now(with a new starter solenoid on it). Also, while I'm doing this I'll check for any loose or rusty grounds.
So, I've peeked under the hood and tried to follow the battery cables to find the starter but I haven't been able to find it. Is it under something? Do I need to remove the battery?
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Lately I've been noticing an Intermittent/random steering wheel whine. It happens rarely, but as of late I heard it a couple times. I checked the fluid and its topped off. Car has about 85k on it. I'm not sure when it was last replaced.
I'm thinking My next step would be changing the fluid. What is the actual procedure for doing this? Also, if I do go ahead and change the fluid and still get a whine here and there. What would be my next step?
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I have a 2006 Sonata with an intermittent check engine light. The light will be on for a few days then goes out for a day or two. This pattern has been going on for about 3 months now. A scan tool was used and showed the code P0011. I know this code has to do with the camshaft timing. My question is should the light be going out on its own if there was a problem with the camshaft timing? Does the engine correct itself and then experience the problem again. Is it normal for check engine lights to go on and off with out being manually reset? Could this be a faulty sensor or loose wire causing the light to go on and off? The car has about 75,000 miles, mostly Hwy, and is driven just about everyday.
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I've been experiencing an annoying intermittent condition on my '07 Sonata (Lambda V6). I wanted to share this in case any of you are experiencing intermittent rough idle complaints in your Sonata (4G) as well. I was finally able to get it into the dealership during the malfunction; in my case, the MIL never lit. Here are the symptoms: ONLY after being fully warmed up, when coming to a full stop, or using just idle speed to, for example, pull into a parking space, or inch up to a stoplight, I would experience a very rough idle (I could hear the engine sputtering with the window down), see the RPM gauge bouncing, and feel the vehicle going "putt-putt-putt" as it tried to keep running under what seemed to be a misfire or too much load. The problem occurred more noticeably with the A/C off but still did occur with it on as well. While exhibiting this problem, acceleration from a stop gave a slight hesitation as well, but once going faster than 1,000RPMs, the problem went away totally. I thought it must have been my imagination until one day, I pulled up in front of a glass window and could see the reflection of my car lurching forward as it struggled to keep idling. Getting it to the dealership while it was behaving badly was the hardest part.
Once I got there, I got a tech to ride with me and finally, after 3 visits to the dealership, someone else witnessed the problem. Up until now, I've been asking people, "Do you feel/hear that?" "Huh?" I digress... The tech immediately said he thought it was a power steering issue and he thought there was an upcoming bulletin on it. I was sure he was wrong, I was thinking it had to be the spark plugs, wires, MAF, or TPS.
After getting the part in for me (Power Steering Sensor Switch) they put it in today and my vehicle is just as new again. It was never a serious issue, but was rather embarrassing to try and show off my Sonata and have it stutter and sputter like that it idle.
This part is complete speculation; maybe a more knowledgeable person can jump in here and correct any logical errors: Apparently, there is a switch in the Power Steering Unit that detects highway speeds versus slower speeds. When vehicle speed is above a certain limit, the power steering pump is either turned off or "turned way down" (so people get the stiffer feel of the wheel at highway speeds). When the vehicle slows down to idle (to be detected by this switch), the vehicle expects the power steering pump will draw full power from the engine and needs to have a slightly higher idle speed to compensate for the load. My switch was malfunctioning; it was not registering to the ECM that the power steering pump was under load when it actually was; the vehicle then did not bump up the idle speed appropriately, and thus, the rough idle and hesitation.
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2007 Sonata SE, 74,000 miles
Just took the car in for brake service (not the dealership) because of what I was convinced was a brake pad sensor warning sound - something I've heard with other cars I've had, and been correct about. However, the tech said the pads were fine.
The sound is a high pitched squeal, intermittent, coming from the passenger front wheel. It can be heard when coasting at moderate speed (30 mph or so), not so much when accelerating, and especially when turning left. It got worse today, with a low grinding sound at moderately slow braking speed that started after about two hours of start and stop driving (house hunting). The car has needed a couple re-alignments and will have to get checked for possible camber? adjustment (rear tires wore badly on outside edges, far less pronounced on front tires). Car has tendency to pull to the right.
Any thoughts on a main culprit here for the squealing-grinding noise or about the possible inter-relatedness of symptoms.
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