Sonata NF (2006-10) :: Throttle Pedal Stopped Responding - CEL Turned On
Oct 16, 2015
My car 2006 Sonata GLS 3.3 litre's throttle pedal stopped responding and the check engine light turned on I scanned the codes came back bad TPS and Pedal Position Sensor so I changed both disconnected the positive battery terminal but still no throughout pedal response and I'm getting P2106, P1295, P0638 and pending codes P0222 and P2135. I'm at a complete loss as to what to do.
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My girlfriends Toyota Echo has been giving her problems it seems. She says that it will randomly not respond to the pedal being pushed. She's not great with cars, but says she doesn't hear it revving. I was thinking dirty fuel filter, but I would think it would be running rough all the time if it was clogged? What it could be?
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2009 Limited, 3.3L, 65000 miles.
Car starts, check engine light and ESC light come on. The car has no throttle/pedal response. It will not go above idle speed and it doesn't matter how much the fuel pedal is pressed. So we've turned around and returned to where we started.
The first time I let the car sit for five minutes and started it. No problems for four weeks. Yesterday, we tried that four times and that didn't work. I disconnected the battery for five minutes and the car works normally again.
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OK..so I had the dreaded "Digitizer stopped responding" issue with my Nav screen. I took it apart to repair and now, screen is all white...also the digitizer cracked.
I used to be an electronic tech for many years and fixed many PCBs in the past, but somehow a small transformer on the PCB that drives the LCD panel broke. It is un-repairable as it is surface mounted and I wouldn't even know where to get the part. Also, I was chipping away the glass to get at the traces under the edge of the digitizer and the glass cracked.
Anyway; here is my question. Does the driver PCB, LCD panel and Digitizer are the same on the Nav and Non Nav units? All I need to repair the screen are those three parts. I have seen the non-Nav units much cheaper than the Nav units. Even if I can get a used one, at least I can get the screen to work again in my wife's car.
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I own a 2006 Subaru Tribeca with 125,000 miles. It has been well maintained and a great vehicle. On a recent long distance trip, after driving about 7 hours, going 70mph, the car started to buck and the accelerator stopped responding. It continued to lose speed as I pulled off the side of the highway. I turned the car off and restarted it and attempted to drive it but it wouldn't go over 10-15 mph. I didn't have any check engine lights. Called AAA and had the car towed 4 hours to our final destination. The mechanic has had the car for 4 days and can not find the cause of the event. I have a 22 hour drive back home in a month and I am extremely concerned. Did some research and have found others have had the problem but had codes come up. Research says it could be throttle pedal position sensor/ pedal assembly.
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I'm wondering if top tier gasoline is better for our car's. I had a 2002 Camry that stopped idling up with the A/C turned on. I was told that the only way to fix was to replace the throttle body after it was sprayed with some kind of cleaner. No adjustments as the idle is set by the car's computer. Don't want to go through that again.
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I have a 2013 sonata gls and I bought it new, it only has 4,000 km on it. I don't know if this has always happened and I am just noticing now or just all of a sudden occurred but when I was stopped at a red light today and I had my defrost on, (heat fan on) it felt like my gas pedal there was a slight pulsation that I could feel. I also noticed earlier in the summer when the ac is on it seems like the car pulsates as well or the engine just sounds rougher. It seems to go away when the ac or heater fan is on 0. Is this an issue or serious problem? Why this is occurring?
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This car had this problem about 4 years ago when my father in law owned it He had the dealer fix it and they replaced the gas pedal assembly i checked that and it is ok if i shut off the car and restart it the pedal works fine or about 15 seconds then back to idle
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We have a 2007 Camry and today the car died. We got a jump and it started right up. After the car turned over......and was running....the Check engine light came on and nothing happened when we hit the gas pedal. The car will go into both reverse and drive and idle forward and back.....but still the gas is not responsive.
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I have a 95 GMC Vandura 2500 with 91000 miles. Yesterday, I got in my truck in the morning (engine was cold) and started it up. It started up fine and backed out of the driveway fine, but when I put it in drive and pressed on the gas, it was unresponsive. I kept trying the gas and it eventually worked. I kept driving, and it happened a couple more times when I would push on the gas and nothing would happen, and then it would kick in. When the engine warmed up, it seemed to happen less. I need to get this fixed because I'm trying to sell the truck.
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So, yesterday, when I stopped at red light, my car just turned off. I tried to turn it on, but I couldn't. I kept trying, and after 30th try it turned on. I had this same problem month ago, but it disappeared until now. I can turn it on by pushing when it happens. Is it fuel pump? Or some sensor?
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I have a Nissan Murano 2004 SL AWD.I got the car last year and since I got the car, my gas pedal was not working properly during certain condition. You would think my car is haunted, believe me!
The main problem is: after driving for 30 minutes, when I come to a complete stop, my gas pedal does not respond directly. I have to press the gas pedal all the way and release it for the car to start driving.The more I do this process after the problem occurs, the more time the gas pedal will respond after I completely floor it. For example, after 15 minutes of such problem occurring, I need about 2.5 seconds for the gas pedal to work after flooring it. After 30 min of the problem occurring, I need about 3 sec. to 3.5 sec. and on a hill, the respond time takes even longer!
Now here is the funny part...I have notice that whenever it's hot outside, the problem with my gas pedal does not occur after 30 minutes but it will occur after less time, maybe after 15 to 20 minutes of driving.When it's colder like during the winter the problem will occur after 40 minutes of driving.
Here is another funny thing. When my gas pedal start acting up, if I go to park my car and turn my engine off for about... 5 to 10 minutes, less or more, the gas pedal starts working again for the next 10 to 15 minutes before acting up again.
I really want to fix it.It's not bothering me sometimes but today I was at a red light on a hill and my car just did not accelerate at all for about 3 seconds while my car was sliding down and people beeping at me. It's really getting me irritated!
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Yesterday I noticed my nav screen stopped responding but partially. It'll let me press buttons on left side but not right side. Unfortunately the "I agree" is on right side so I can't even get passed that screen. I don't use the nav but I'd rather have the map showing then "Caution...."
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I have a 2010 (IV) and the screen stopped responding to touch, I looked it up and seems like a common issue in the 2010.
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I'm getting this checked today most likely as it's been happening for months now. No issues with vibration and stopping is fine. As a matter of fact brakes are excellent. However when I'm stopped at a light or whatnot and I depress the brake pedal there's a pulsation that occurs almost every time. It's fairly constant and only happens when I'm at a stop not when I'm stopping so I know it's not a warped rotor. What it might be?
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I have a 2004 Z71 Chevy Tahoe with 192,000 miles that runs great. The issue I have though is the electrical system is going haywire (no pun intended). The front A/C and heater stopped responding to the level knob, therefore doesn’t blow, the dash lights will periodically dim and go off, the horn doesn't work when I want it to, and the A/C would sometimes blow warm air when it did work. The A/C used to work on all levels of the dial, and then over time, level by level, they stopped working; however, the back blower works well on both A/C and heater, which is operated by the overhead control knob. I open the front vents to allow outside air in, rather than recirculated air, and the air coming out of the vents is A/C air, but it only blows when I'm driving of course.
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My recently acquired '07 SE V6 has a little quirk when I drive it in the morning. Until it warms up completely, it seems to have a little surge while driving under light throttle. Tach doesn't jumo, and there is no CEL. Tranny was just flushed and serviced also. Once the car is at normal operating temp, all is well. I've searched the archives, and there are some suggestions about having a bad TPS, but my rpm fluctuations aren't that bad, and like I said, don't make the tach move. It also will sometimes hesitate just a hair when taking off for the first time after starting.
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I have a 2009 V6 Ltd with about 15k miles. It has always seemed to shift a little too hard from 1st to 2nd and from 2nd to 3rd under light to medium throttle. Does this sound like a transmission ill that can be fixed by adjustments?
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My Sonata has developed a hesitation when accelerating from a standstill. Sometimes the symptom is worse. I haven't identified any correlation of this symptom with any other scenarios.
Symptom : When at a stand-still, lightly pressing on the gas pedal doesn't result in corresponding slow acceleration, it is only after a certain threshold (of throttle application) has passed that power from the engine is transmitted to the wheels. When this occurs, the result is a jerky start.
In other words, trying to feather the gas pedal to allow a gradual and smooth acceleration from stand-still is not possible when this issue occurs.
I believe the 09' Sonata has a drive by wire throttle correct? If so, could this be a computer calibration issue?
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I have a 07 Sonata with about 94K on it. I have noticed the last few weeks after I am done with work and back out of my stall and turn the wheel to the right it makes a creaking sound. After this one time it won't do it again. It just does it if the car has been sitting for several hours.What it could be?
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So, I had heard this was happening frequently and now my navigation screen has stopped responding to touch inputs.
It looks like my Lexus platinum extended warranty has paid it's self off!
For those that have had the entire central control module replaced by Lexus with (I assume a refurbished/manufactured) one, have they held up? Are the repaired units anymore robust than the originals?
My car is an 2008, has the weak connections to the touch screen been addressed in the later vehicle builds?
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