Sonata NF (2006-10) :: Temporary Loss Of All Electric In Car
Sep 8, 2016
For the past few weeks I have had a bizarre issue with my 2010 Sonata GLS. If you unlock all doors (press the FOB unlock button twice), get in, close the door and then turn the key and attempt to start the car, all power is lost to the the interior and with no lights, radio etc. The car is literally dead and won't start. If I open the drivers side door and then close it again, all power comes back and I can start the car. All radio stored stations are lost, the clock is reset and usually the trip odometer is reset too. Other times, if I just press the FOB unlock once to unlock just the drivers side door, the issue does not apparently seem to happen. What the issue may be?
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So over the past couple months when driving on the highway I would notice that sometimes my car would lose all power and slowly coast to a stop, but then the power comes back on and I'm off after a few seconds. It happened again today and I notice when I do hit the gas when it decides not to accelerate my boost gauge shows that there is vacuum building up in the engine. It just doesn't make sense to me. Would my car be getting thrown into a limp mode? Or is it something to do with fueling?
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I live in NM. It's been excessively hot here this summer, 95+ daily for the past 2 months.
Yesterday while I was driving I noticed a weird feel in the accelerator pedal. Almost like a mini-misfire. It was intermittent. Maybe did it 6 or so times in a 10 minute time span. My wife couldn't feel it in the passenger seat but I definitely felt it through the pedal. There was no MIL light during or after the incident.
We get home, she gets out on the passenger side and there was a strong fuel smell (tank, filler, and filter are on that side). By the time I got the car up in the air and the rear passenger tire off and fender liner out the smell had dissipated (probably evaporated due to the high temperature). There were no noticeable leaks. No dripping. Before I had it in the air I definitely smelled fuel underneath the car around the rear passenger side. I opened the hood and didn't smell or see anything in the engine bay.
I called VW customer care and they informed me this recall of the fuel tank ventilation valve was performed back in 2009 but the symptoms explained in the recall are exactly what I experienced. I verified the recall was done using my VIN number search on NHTSA's Safer Car site.
I can imagine that although the recall was done 7 years ago, it's still possible for this ventilation valve to fail. Especially because the recall states high ambient temps are a factor.
I have a legit VCDS but have not scanned it yet. Wife is off today so I took her car. I plan to go home, scan the car, and try to reproduce the issue before taking the fender liner out again. I have the means to do my own work but if I have to do something like drop the fuel tank I'll probably take it in.
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I have a 2013 F150 with a 3.5 Ecoboost. I was pulling my 16' aluminum boat on a two lane road and pulled out to pass another truck. I stomped on the accelerator and the motor lost power. I limped back into my lane and noticed the engine light blinking. If I had to describe it, it seemed like the motor was running in some sort of "limp mode."
After about a minute or so, I let up on the accelerator and the light stopped blinking where the motor began to run normally. Although I only "stomped" on accelerator once since I had the issue, I haven't had the problem since. The truck has 44k on it..
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2001 V10 160000 miles.
1st happened Wednesday on way back. Temps all fine but had been in stop and go traffic earlier. Truck was on cruise and felt like fuel cut. I disengaged cruise. Throttle would keep it running and within 5-10 seconds it caught and ran fine.
Connected and reconnected all injectors, coil connections, tb and MAF connections. Nothing noted loose. No codes on OBD reader.
Drove around town last couple days no issues. Today towing three dirt-bikes about 45 miles. towards the end of the 45 miles. she stumbled as we crossed an intersection. Then caught and ran fine. Did it twice on way back home towards the end of the trip.
Had OBD reader in gauge mode with ignition advance, tp sensor, voltage and gallons per hour showing. None seemed to change when it stumbled.
Fuel pump is about 2 years old. Coils maybe 4 or 5 years old. Aftermarket. No codes on OBDII reader.
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I have a 2007 4 door Sonata with an electric rear passenger window that will not stay up. I will need to remove the door panel to get to the problem. Any video, or a step by step procedure that would guide to remove the door panel and possibly repair the window?
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well I don't exactly know if that's what I should call it... I was driving last night around 10 and I pushed the gas down 3/4 of the way or so to pass around this car but instead of downshifting and accelerating, it just revved up all the way, i kept hitting the gas and it was like revving it in neutral then it kicked back into gear... should i be concerned? It was fine the rest of the night but I wasn't driving it hard.
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What's going on with my sonata. Its an 06 GLS 4 cylinder, 168k miles. I've actually had the problem before, and it lasted maybe about a week or two before the car went back to normal by itself. But a couple days ago it has returned. The car barely goes! All it wants to do is rev and not go. Coming from a complete stop is the worse, as it takes me forever to get up there in speed. I already feel like a danger on the road by sometimes not being able to keep up with traffic. Once I get up there in speed I'm able to keep it at that. I thought it was maybe the spark plugs last time, so I changed them, but that didn't seem to be it. I know the car has electrical issues, now I'm just thinking its that since its done it before and went back to normal. I took a video to get a better idea of what its like. [URL] ....
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I was cruising on the highway and tried to accelerate and no more power. Could feel engine losing power. After I shutdown the car and start again, car was fine.
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My daughter's 2007 Sonata 4 cyl (88k miles) has an occasional power steering loss. It has only been noticed right after slowing down from highway speed. Total loss for a few seconds then comes back. No dash lights or noises, just steers like an old classic without power steering - then can.
This is kind or a repeat post from another individual but he had a V6.
SBR711 recommended replacing the Harmonic balancer and I am inclined to do so but parts guy at Hyundai said that typically is not an issue in the 4 cyl model. So he does not keep item on hand.
Fluid is fine, clean and proper level. No screeching etc..
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I've got about 80K miles on my '06 Sonata and the weather conditions were on the very wet side.
At first I thought I heard a squealing sound which I just credited to either a radio or windshield wiper sound while cruising through some twisty coastal roads. The rain was coming down pretty good and a small amount of standing water of already on the road.
As I continued my drive I began to notice an occasional loss of power steering for a split second through some turns accompanied by that same belt squealing sound. At the same time the battery light also came on for a split second which indicated to me possible engine failure for a split second. Even though it was for only a split second it really freaked me out to think I could end up crossing the center lane or over into the ditch. I then slowed my pace for the rest of the trip. When I stopped for gas I popped the hood and things appeared to be normal and with plenty of power steering fluid.
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I have a 2007 Sonata GL. So tonight after work when getting into car to go home I noticed my CEL came on, also as I was driving at low speeds/rpm I noticed the car really sounded like it has a diesel engine in it. At higher speeds on the highway I noticed it has some loss of power and the diesel sound went away. CEL stayed on.
The CEL light I am pretty sure is the OCV which I havent replaced yet. So my question is: Can the OCV cause the car to sound like a diesel and have loss of power is that caused by something else?
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I’m having an issue with my 2004 Hyundai Elantra cutting off, and what to check for next. Basically I have a very intermittent issue where the car seems to lose electrical power for a split second (or possibly total loss of gas – as in, it doesn’t seem to be misfiring, just seems to totally lose all power). If it happens when I first start the car up, the car will start up for a second and then cut off. It also happens randomly when driving at any speed, and when it happens while driving, it just goes out for a split second, and then cuts back on and I can keep driving, so the RPMs Rev up for a second as a result when it kicks back on, but then goes back to normal. But it is completely intermittent, as in, some days it will not do it at all on my 30-min drive to work. I even went a whole week without it happening. But this week it has come back. Some days it will do it 3 times, some days 20 times. Some days its hard to get my car started, because it keeps cutting off when I start it. But so far after I try around 5-10 times it will start up and keep going. Also, this may indicate nothing, but when it goes out for that split second, I can hear a click, or electrical sounding click coming from the dash/instrument panel area. Which is what makes it seem electrical in nature, but I could be wrong, could be a spark/gas thing.
This has been happening it seems no matter what the weather is outside (its been anywhere from the 20s to 60s here in the last few weeks) and it doesn’t seem to matter if the car is warmed up or not. Also, so far the check engine light has not come on, so it makes me think it might not be a sensor, since those will usually trigger the light when they start going bad. Also, when the car is running, it runs perfect. Idles perfect, drives perfect, no misfires, no hesitation, etc. The ONLY problem is it cutting out. Also, it doesn’t seem to matter if the fuel tank is full or half empty. I had read in one place that if the vapor recovery charcoal canister gets full of gas, it will vent liquid fuel instead of vapor, which can result in car cutting off or running rough, but this usually only happens when fuel tank is full. So I suppose it could be this, but I doubt it.The car has 180k miles. Iridium plugs have 60k on them. Wires have 60k on them. Original fuel pump and fuel filter. I wouldn’t think it would be the filter since when it runs it runs perfect. I guess could possibly be the pump having an intermittent issue. Trying to avoid replacing that for now unless I knew it was the problem.
What I’ve done so far:
•I made sure the battery cables are tight and clean at the connection
•I checked as many grounds as I could find, they all seem good
•Alternator puts out a perfect amount of voltage
•I swapped the ECU main relay and fuse with another relay and fuse in the fuse box that were identical
•I swapped the Fuel Pump relay with an identical one in the box
•I replaced the Crankshaft position sensor
•I cleaned the Mass Airflow sensor (though it looked spotless)
•I looked around for any vacuum hoses that were disconnected. Didn’t find any
•I’ve tried resetting the ECU (unplug battery for a while) and I thought that fixed it at first, but then it came back a few days later. And now resetting ECU seems to have no effect.
Some possibilities of what it could be:
•Fuel pump intermittent issue?
•Camshaft position sensor?
•ECU problem?
•Catalytic convertor going bad?
•Some other sensor going bad?
•Possibly the vapor recovery charcoal canister is full of fuel as described above
•ignition coils – but I doubt it since you’d usually get a misfire/engine light when those go bad (from experience)
•Fuel pressure regulator – but I doubt it, based on the symptoms. Seems like I’d have other symptoms.
I’m not convinced of any of these above, and some of them I wouldn’t know how to check (like for a bad ECU). What it might be? Getting nervous driving 75mph on the interstate with someone behind me and the car cutting out. Luckily so far it doesn’t cut completely off when I’m up to speed with someone behind me!
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So over the last few months I have been having more and more idling and power loss issues with my 2006 V6. When idling she intermittently will try to stall and the rpms will drop below 500 and then spike back up. A large percentage of the time I hear a loud whining sound while driving down the road and I notice that turning off the air conditioner will remove the sound at times.
***what I have done so far**
Idler Pulley
Belt tensioner
sepentine belt
cleaned MAF
Cleaned Throttle body
Throttle Position Sensor
Had car reprogrammed
So I pulled the belt off and checked all the pulleys and did notice some grittiness in the AC pulley (inner) and was wondering if this might be the issue. Attached is a video I uploaded, Video .....
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My 2006 Sonata V6 (88k miles) has an occasional power steering loss. It has only been noticed right after slowing down from highway speed. Total loss for a few seconds then comes back. No dash lights or noises, just cant steer - then can. Did all required maint. until 60k then just oil changes by me. Have read other forums about fluid flush, but that was for noise and I don't have any noise. This has happened with and without the Electronic Stability Control turned on. Other than that, runs great. MPG is about 25 or so (wish was 30 or so).
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After my electric water pump was replaced under the recall my mileage went from 45 mpg to about 30 mpg. Part of this might be due to new tires and cold snowy weather (CT !) but I have never seen such a drastic drop in performance (2005 Prius).
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I have a 2013 SE/Limited with only 2800 miles on it. I understand that the Sonata has a great electric power steering system; however, I find it to be a little TOO powerful. Yesterday I was coming home on the highway doing about 65 MPH and I noticed how it's terribly hard to keep the car going straight down the road without constantly having to move the steering wheel. It's almost as though the electric power steering is too lose. I want to drive my car, but it's sorta uncomfortable how I'm always battling it to not meander all over the lane. I never remember having to battle the steering system in my '01 Accord EX V-6 while driving..
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I went to look at a 2009 GS450h today. Great car and looking to buy but have two questions:
Firstly, when I sat in and pressed the Power button the car started on petrol, not electric power, which I wasn't expecting as i understood the 450H always starts on battery. Am i right or getting mixed up?
Secondly, and maybe linked to the above, when I looked in the boot (trunk?) the cover was off the small battery located on the lh side. I suspect they may have been using a booster pack to get the car going (as car dealers often do) but isn't this a big no no for the 450H.
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I have a 2006 GMC Sierra with 90,000 miles and a 5.3 engine. Never any issues but I've noticed that when I start the truck up the electric auxiliary fan comes on immediately. This is when the truck is cold and the fan should not be needed. Never had any issues with it overheating or anything. Is this just a sensor gone out or something or is it normal? If it is a sensor which one is it and where would it be located?
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My mirror got banged and fell out. I put the mirror back on but now it won't go up and down. It will go right and left. I can't even push it with my hand. Perhaps electric mirror's can't be pushed by hand. I've never tried before. It's a 2010 Hyundai Elantra touring. Is there anything I can check or will I have to buy a new one.
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Car power shuts off, can't start it, not even turning over, then 45 minutes later I can start car and all is functioning. I also noticed that the clock was off by 45 minutes...
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