While driving my 2006 Sonata yesterday I noticed a tapping noise that increased and decreased with speed. Not really loud, but audible. I looked and really didn't see anything. However, I looked earlier a little closer and noticed my left front wheel has a rubber looking belt, hose (unsure) laying across the inside part of wheel, closer to what I assume is caliper.
View 15 RepliesI have a 1998 Honda Accord Coupe with a 2.3L straight 4 with a 5 speed manual. Last night when I was driving home the car was idling at around 200 RPM when the engine was warm. And then this morning it started fine, ran fine, but as the engine temperature increased the idle decreased, as it should. But even when it wasn't fully at the proper temp it was idling at 500 RPM. When it warmed up to the proper temp it was idling at 150, yes 150. It was touching the 0 RPM line, but it didn't stall. It has had problems in the past with initial low idling, like when you disengage the clutch, but never constantly idling so low. Keep in mind that the idling hasn't progressively gotten lower over time. The problem just arose last night. Also, it accelerates fine, and the check engine light isn't on. What is most likely the cause?
View 4 RepliesWhat the defective part could be? GS300 has run 90.000km, sound can be recognized by passing for example gullys or small bumps with speed of ~20km/h. Increasing speed let the sound disappear. I have already replaced stabilizer bar bushes, link assy and lower ball joint assy.
Attached a linked sound file [URL] .....
Just put on eibachs and car is randomly making a grinding noise when slowly accelerating or braking.. Also noticing a fairly loud clicking noise when going in reverse. The noise isn't consistent and seems to happen more right after startup. I haven't gotten the alignment done yet and was wondering if this could be the problem. Will try and post a video soon.
View 8 RepliesI did a search and what I saw all had to do with noise at startup.Mine is during cruising. I have a 2007 Sonata 4 cylinder with 112K miles. Within the last few months it began making a slight chattering noise when I accelerate and when cruising. It's worst around 55mph. When I let off, it almost goes away, but is loudest when I just am feathering the pedal to maintain speed.
If I put the pedal down a little more and accelerate, it is not loud, but still faintly there. At first I thought it was a tapping sound, but I've let some of my friends listen and its more like a clattering, metal rattling, or vibration perhaps. Its hard to describe. A week ago I had the check engine light come on with a "P0011 Hyundai - 'A' Camshaft Position Timing Over-Advanced Or System Performance Bank 1".
I changed the oil and took it into a local shop and they cleared the code/light and checked things out (the light hasn't reappeared). I had them take off the valve cover and make sure the top end was not making the noise. It seemed fine to them. They suggested I take it to the dealer for further diagnosis. I have not yet. It does not make noise during start up. If I have time I will upload a audio recording later. What may be making the noise? It seemed to get a little louder after the latest oil change, but that's probably me being more sensitive to the problem.
I'm in the market for an '09 Sonata 4cyl. I found a good looking one at a local Toyota dealership (supposed trade in). Unfortunately, the dealer claims there are no service records available...test drove it and heard noise coming from rear suspension when going over speed bumps. Dealer had tech look into it and said they lubed up the 'springs' and stabilizer/sway bar and now the noise is gone. Should I run away or take this thing in for an independent inspection, and if it checks out, buy it without the service records?
View 3 RepliesI have a front end noise when I go over a speed bump or hit a pot hole. It is kind of a crunching nise like something needs grease.
The Hyundai dealer charged me $54 to diagnose the problem and told me I needed both upper control arms replaced to the tune. They did force some grease in the bushings.
The car only has 63000 miles.
I have this noise that is cumming from under the car about dead center Engine area its only heard while driving and more as the car has been driven for some time. From speeds 20mph and above only when increasing speed or when full throttle. It wont do it in park or revving it i jack up the car front end and put in drive only front right tire turns but still no noise(is there away for the left tire to turn). Everthing works normal the noise is low and at times only.
2.4L Sonata 68000+miles.
101,400 miles on car. Started noticing about 2 weeks ago, at idle, and as pickup up speed, a whining noise coming from the engine bay. It has gotten a little worse, so I started trouble shooting.
Basically, at idle, its somewhat annoying, but as you hit 20-30mph it can be more annoying if the radio is off or at low level. If Im sitting there in park, and its whining away, all it takes is me cutting the A/C knob to OFF, and then quiet as a mouse.
So, other than the compressor going bad, I can't see anything else related? I always hate when AC problems show up, they are never cheap....
I just bought a 2012 hyundia accent automatic two months ago with 92,000 miles on it. I put everything i had down on it so now I don't have a lot for warranty co-pay or anything. After two weeks of owning it i got a P0420 code and a light tapping noise. Well i was going to work (i drive up and down mountains) and when i headed up an incline my rpms jumped from three to five and lost all speed. I pulled into rest stop and was freaking out. Anyway after about an our of me looking i decided to just shake my car back and forth. I got in and pulled back onto interstate and the car was fine..except for a baffled sound now with light tapping. I cant figure why after it cooled it ran ok. Makes me wonder if i had bad gas or something. Well fast forward one month and now i am throwing P420, P0011, P0326,and using one quart of oil every 300 miles. I have done the oil change, injector cleaner, airfilter. I am gonna change the pcv valve today and see if that works.
View 4 RepliesJust like the tittle says. My 2011 ISF with 56k miles on it is making a Clunking noise when pulling out of a parking spot or just anytime I fully steer to the left side and begin to move. If I try it in reverse it doesn't matter if I turn the steering wheel fully to left or right it makes the same noise as I begin to move at slow speed. It almost feels like something is pushing the front wheels out. During normal driving I don't feel anything at all, just as steady as solid the car can be.
Is there any common issues with ISF with premature wear of ball joints, cv joint, sway bar bushings or hub bearing?
Have a noise from cold starts in the morning when it is cold outside? Mine does a ticking noise, no not the normal ticking noise, but a different ticking noise like something is tapping something. Could this be that the fuel injectors or cold so it makes a louder noise? Another noise is constant clicking when I decelerate or am going very slow. It only does this when it is cold outside and it lasts for about 10 to 15 minutes and then the noise becomes a lot quiter. Is this normal?
View 16 RepliesI have a 2007 Sonata Ltd (63000 miles) and had a clunk in the front suspension. I had the front upper control arms replaced (which were visually badly worn) and that fixed the problem. But now, a several months later another similar clunking noise has developed when I go over those small speed bumps in parking lots.
View 18 RepliesWhen I shut the car off and just sit in the car, I hear a very odd tapping noise coming from the dash to the left of the steering wheel. It taps 3-4 times, stops for 20 seconds, and taps again 3-4 times. This process repeats a few times and then stops completely. What on earth could it be? I'm thinking its a bad relay or perhaps the car is possessed. I'm not sure I could reproduce for the dealer.
View 15 Replies2016 LTD Ultimate, 2700 miles. First and only Hyundai for the moment.
I've experience this one twice, a few weeks apart: cold start the car, and in the first 100 yards or so I'll hear a tapping noise that's clearly rotational, varies with speed but eventually ceases. Sounds like it's coming from front passenger wheel well area, and sounds like a stick or some sort of debris is stuck in the wheel. Both times I've inspected the area and found nothing whatsoever.
I live in an apartment complex area, park in a lot always in reverse so I'm always going from park to drive. The area I live in is wooded ("Pine Barrens" region of Long Island) but the roads are paved so it's not like I'm driving thru wilderness.
Very high pitched "whistle"(enough to give you a headache) as vehicle speed increases or fan speed increased. This will not occur on recirculate and will go away if a window or roof is opened.
View 5 RepliesOver the past month I've notice the idle speed increasing. Yesterday I had to turn the idle adjustment screw to lower the idle speed, as the high idle speed was making it difficult to drive in stop and go traffic. Especially if I took my foot off the gas while in gear, it would jerk rather than slowing down smoothly as it used to. I think the jerking was related to how the ECM stops the injectors completely when slowing down in gear, to improve mpg, then before the rpms gets too low, fire the injectors back up again. Anyway, lowering the idle speed with the adjustment screw fixed the jerking problem, for now.
But in 20 years, I've never had this occur before. The only time I've fiddled with the idle adjustment screw was during tune-ups, and then only had to adjust it 5-15 degrees. This time I had to turn it in 45 degrees. I expect there is unwanted air getting into the intake manifold somehow. And it will probably get worse. Here's some ideas -- in order of most likely to least likely -- I've had what could be causing it.
Throttle valve sticking in throttle body and needs a cleaning.
Throttle linkage needs a lube.
Canister purge valve is open during idle and allowing fumes from the canister into the intake manifold, when it shouldn't be.
Throttle position switch has failed.
Vacuum hose or device leaking.
IAC valve (part of throttle body in this car) is sticking.
ECM is bumping the idle speed through the vacuum controlled actuator (VSD). Unlikely, b/c the idle speed still increases when I turn the headlights on or I turn the steering wheel, both of which use this mechanism (I think).
Thermostat -- unlikely as it happens even when the coolant has reached 195 deg F (when the fan turns on).
2009 Accent with a manual transmission
I am at about 65K miles so far. I changed my oil last night like I normally do. The car was on rhino ramps and as I started the car to back off the ramps, I noticed a very audible, "Tap tap tap" noise on start up, only. It goes away a second after I let off the key turn once the engine catches.
It did this when I backed it off the ramps and then when I shut the car off and waited a minute to check for it again on level ground and the same thing happened. Only two times and it has been quite as a mouse on start up since ever since. I want to say it is starter related as the noise sounds like a rapid tapping that slows and immediately stops as if the starting gear that engaged the flywheel is slowing to a stop once disengaged.
I have a Chrysler pacifica 2006 .Later in 2009 I had a problem ( 'tapping noise' coming from the engine). I took the car to the dealer, since at that time I still have warranty (39,000 miles). They changed: 18 arms (6 of each type) 8 dowel pin, belt and the lifters. Last year I started hearing the same noise again. The car was with 56,000 miles. I thought it should be under the warranty (service done), but it wasn't. So I decided to have the dealership servicing the repair. This time the part changed was only one. The receipt says they changed the 'arm-inlet and exhaust valve'. Guess what ? the noise still there and they say they won't open the car without me paying for the diagnosis ( many hour of labor for sure!).What can I do?
View 1 RepliesI am having issues with my 2003 F150 4.6L truck. It just happened today when driving home. It started fine and then when I increased the speed and the rpms went up to about 2000rpms, the engine seemed to slip into neutral. I stepped on the gas but the truck would not accelerate, it was just coasting. I pulled over to the side of the road and came to a stop, but didn't shut off the engine.
After a few seconds, I proceeded to give it some gas, and it engaged in gear and accelerated...until I got to about 25mph & rpms increased to about 2000 again. It did the same exact thing....seemed to shift back to neutral so that I could not accelerate. I had to keep pulling over to come to a stop, and then slowly proceed again. I wasn't too far from home & I made it. What this issue could be?
2012 Limited 2.0T. Bought it CPO (certified pre-owned with 12k miles). Current mileage 37,400.
Background ... Wednesday night, transmission started shifting funny. It felt like a delayed shift. RPMs increased by a few hundred before a harder engagement into the next gear. More noticeable between 2-3, 3-4. Also harder engagements in down shifting. Thursday, same shifting problem and CEL came on. I couldn't find my scan tool, so stopped by Autozone. Registered a P0711 (Transmission Fluid Temp sensor circuit). Called the dealership yesterday and dropped vehicle off. Picked up last night. According to the paperwork, the code that was present was a P0705 (Switch Assy-Transmission Range). Supposedly, the sensor was replaced and code cleared.
Driving home, the CEL was / is currently off. However, the transmission still isn't shifting properly. I am fully expecting the CEL to come back on. Never had an issue with the transmission indicator lights next to the shift selector (which I believe the P0705 symptoms were). On the printout I got from the dealership, it states "PLEASE NOTE GDS PRINTER NOT WORKING BEING REPAIR NO PRINTOUT AVAILABLE". I think dealership is just looking to milk some money from Hyundai.
Side note.... OE battery, which was replaced with another OEM when I bought the car 1 year ago, was replaced with a Die Hard yesterday.