Sonata NF (2006-10) :: Surging And Cutting Out Once Warmed Up - P0304 Code
Nov 24, 2012
I was on my drive in to work Wednesday and the car once warmed up started surging and cutting out. I got it to work and home again and hooked up my code reader and came up with P0304 meaning misfire in number 4 cylinder.
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The code p0304 pop up last week, I have 50800 miles on my car, I unplug the spark plug and the ignition coil from the cylinder 4 and when i start the car I can there is a spark so the wire the spark plug and the ignition coil is good... I changed the fuel injecter with the one from cylinder 3 I cleared the code and it came back?
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I have a 07 Sonata V6 that misses only when warmed up, runs fine when cold. code p0301 for cylinder one misfire, I have replaced the plug, coil and injector for cylinder one and still the same. idles and runs perfect when cold, dead miss on number one cylinder when warmed up.
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2006 Subaru Forester X 2.5L AT non-turbo
I changed the oil and oil filter; replaced the air filter (Fram), and replaced the alternator and a/c belts. I also got a full tank of gas at Sam's Club, I was nearly empty. I've gotten gas plenty of times there, before.
Next day, the CEL comes on. It's a P0304 code. (Cruise control light is flashing, too.) Engine stumbles and runs rough when cold; idles fine when warm, runs OK, but not the same, when warm. CEL is steady, which is "not bad" but I can make it flash if I hit the accelerator while the engine is cold. Resetting the computer by disconnecting the hot battery terminal didn't work; CEL came on again two days later and symptoms remained.
I buy some MAF cleaner (CRC) and use it; MAF was pretty dirty on the upstream side, actually.
I'm going to change the plugs and wires (they need it, anyway) and I've ordered a new ignition coil, which I'll also switch out.
I've also ordered the gasket for the throttle body, which I'll take apart and clean once that comes in. Last step is to order replacement O2 sensors.
I'm 99% certain there's nothing wrong with the engine, in terms of rings, valves, pistons, etc. I think I'm covering all the bases in addressing this myself. I'm on a limited budget so I'm doing all the labor myself and ordering non-OEM parts on-line, after researching to make sure the parts have a good reputations, fit, etc. (Yes, that's all a big FU to Subaru service for being over-priced but besides being relatively poor I also enjoy doing this stuff.)
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2010 Sonata GL Sport at 122,000 kms (75,800 miles)
Engine Malfunction Light came on solid. Using ODBII reader, my Honda mechanic friend read the codes to be
P0106 Current, Pending, Permanent - Faulty Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor
P0304 Pending - Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected
He replaced MAP sensor and Coil pack. But the Engine Light remains on solid. Now its only giving code P0106 which kind of points back to MAP sensor.
Spark plugs has never been replaced so I've been suggesting to replace it anyways proactively.
Questions:
1. What else may be causing the Engine Light?
2. When do Spark Plugs typically get replaced?
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I recently bought a 2006 sonata with the 2.4 & automatic. It has 56k miles but is out of warranty (CDN). A lot of times at 50 mph it has a very noticeable surge where the car is not sure what gear it wants to be in (feels like torque converter locking & unlocking). At 60 mph plus it's fine & the tranny shifts smoothly. The fluid is nice & red with no burning smell.
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I was driving this morning after doing a brake job (nothing to do with the problem, just anger coming out) made it about 10 kms and noticed when i took my foot off the accelerator, the heater fan powered down a bit, and back up when I gave it gas...noticed a knocking sound from the engine...pulled into a gas station and put it in park. After a hard time idling, it cut out. I started it again and the idle was not good at all. kept cutting out. Got it going and made it home with the same sort of power issue. Tried to start it a couple times and same issue with the idle. Sputtering quite a bit and noticed quite a bit of exhaust coming out. When I backed it out of the garage, I noticed a small puddle of oil.
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My recently acquired '07 SE V6 has a little quirk when I drive it in the morning. Until it warms up completely, it seems to have a little surge while driving under light throttle. Tach doesn't jumo, and there is no CEL. Tranny was just flushed and serviced also. Once the car is at normal operating temp, all is well. I've searched the archives, and there are some suggestions about having a bad TPS, but my rpm fluctuations aren't that bad, and like I said, don't make the tach move. It also will sometimes hesitate just a hair when taking off for the first time after starting.
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I own a 2007 Sonata 2.4l GLS with 120,500miles on it. In the past three weeks (recently after oil change) its developed a clunking noise only when warmed up (about 40 seconds). I purchased this car beginning of August and it had no noise then. I changed the oil with 10w30 castrol hm oil (the dealer I bought it from stated they put in same viscosity although oil cap reads 5w20 manual says 5w30 is acceptable) . Ive had it checked out by mechanics who have no clue what it is and want to tear down the engine. The noise goes away if it revs a bit higher that 1200rpm and then cones back worse when revving down until idle where its not as bad again. I've changed spark plugs (they were factory anyways) and ran premium fuel and even bought a Hyundai filter afterwards hoping it would work but to no avail. I have a video sound clip where its clearly audible Sonata Ticking Noise - YouTube .
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When coming to a stop in my 2007 Hyundai Sonata GLS with a 2.4 4 cyl engine all of a sudden you get something that acts like the car is jerking or surging or rough idling or something. Hard to tell exactly which but if I put it in neutral and rev the engine a little it smooths out. Only happens when coming to a stop. What caused it?
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Last Thrusday, my wife couldn't start my Sonata 2010 with 30,350 miles on it. It just clicked and sounded like a dead battery. She had to get a jump start through Hyundai road side service.
I change the battery yesterday (it only had 225 cranking amps) and immediately strange things started happening: lights flickering, engine surging, hard starting, not starting just clicking, gauge lights blink strangely at startup and when switching off ignition, not remembering odometer settings (I set my odo for MPG).
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Last winter, I noticed the engine was surging intermittently after start-up, until the engine warmed up. No issues on warmer days, spring/summer, etc.. Recently, the check engine light came on, so I took it into the shop. The shop did not feel the problem was the throttle body, and replaced the mass air flow sensor. The engine is still doing the surging thing after starting up.
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2004 Accent - auto. - 100K miles
CEL for code P0304. I thought I had it solved but now it comes on after every fuel fill-up. Its happened at least 5 times or more. I know what the code means (ign. misfire #4 cyl.).
I read and checked what affects the code but this one has me baffled. I thought at first it is the evap. canister but the car takes a fuel fill-up without any trouble and it is not hard to pump it all in and does not give me the code. If I put a bottle of STP gas treatment in the tank it clears the code after about 40 miles driving but it doesn't explain why it sets off the CEL on every fill-up. I also thought I may have sediment in the tank and the fill-up is stirring it up but I have filled her up and various capacities. Also, several weeks ago I got the CEL code P0441 for the purge control valve. I replaced it, cleared the CEL and it never came back on. Fuel filter has never been replaced because it is built into the fuel pump assembly.
Overall drivability and MPG's are not affected.
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I changed the coil on cylinder 4 on my 2004 V6 Tacoma and the p0304 code keeps coming back along with the hesitation and missing when I accelerate. The wires were replaced a month ago. What now?
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Have '01 SE. yesterday I got a misfire in cylinder 4 (code P0304) the service light blinked on and off 3 to 4 times than stayed solid. changed plugs and boots about 1 to 2 months ago, didn't change coils and they r not in the best shape but didn't have money to replace at time. So I replaced the coil for #4 and it still runs rough with code, plug has some ware but looks fine.
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I left my chevy s-10 truck sitting over the christmas (23/24/25) and it was really cold outside and when i got back i started getting a P0304 (Cylinder 4 Misfire). I replaced the spark plugs and spark plug wires. May be the cold would cause this to happen? I think I've noticed the trucks fuels efficiency drop over the past month). May be the fuel injector(s)? Is the s-10 TBI or does it have fuel injectors for each cylinder?
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We just bought a 2002 Camry with 72,000 miles 2 months ago. It now has 74,000 and while on vacation the CEL came on. I took it to a mechanic who got the code P-0304 off the computer. He swapped the number 4 ign. coil pack with the number 3 cylinder. The CEL light went off and I was able to drive the 300 miles home. The next day the CEL started again, but this time it's flashing. I changed the spark plug, it looked good, and still have the CEL on with the P-0304 code.
I've inspected the wiring to the number 4 ign. coil pack and it looks good. I'm thinking the next thing would be the fuel injector.
The car runs great, you'd never know by driving it that there is a misfire occurring. If it's not the wiring or fuel injector what should I check for next?
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2000 Jetta GL 2.0 AEG. I am receiving the P0304 which I have identified as Cylinder misfire #4. I read on some previous posts that I cannot be the distributor because if it was I would be receiving misfires on two cylinders. The spark plugs are OEM NGK and have been replaced recently.
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So, over the past day and a half my beloved B6 has been putting me through the wringer... Sunday morning I fire it up, drive to church, turn the car off and everything is fine. Church is over, I drive home, turn the car off and my cooling fan keeps running... I go inside and check again in about 15 minutes hoping it had shut off after 2 minutes or so, but nope, still running. So, in order not to kill my battery, I disconnect it. I let it sit for a few hours and went back out hoping that leaving the battery disconnected would reset something, but as soon as terminal touched the lug, the fan kicked on again.
Now, for the electrical issues that have come with this problem... Whenever I hook the battery back up, a few things can (and usually do) happen. The steering and traction assists don't work, the parking brake malfunctions, the transmission shifts HARD (if feels like somebody is rear-ending me), occasionally the transmission just stays in 3rd gear, and all of the PRNDS emblems in the dash readout are highlighted as if they're all in gear at the same time. Now, cut the car off and back on a few times and most of these issues go away, but other times I've got to fight it a while and disconnect/reconnect the battery for everything to fix itself. I popped my scanner on it, because it's throwing a CEL as well, and aside from the P0304 misfire code (stupid intake valve crud...), I'm occasionally getting P0864 - TCM Communication Circuit Range/Performance. Not sure what's going on, but it seems like my car is self-destructing...
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Well, I have a big problem on prius 3, the problem is that it has a big and I mean a big body shake when I decelerate above 30 mph or slowly accelerate above 30 to 50-70 mph, when I fully accelerate, the body shake disappears. When the body shake occurs MIL comes blinking and DTC P0304 comes but not always, but the shake is only when the coolant is hot.
On the other hand, if the MIL is not on with the tester it can be seen that the cylinder 4 has misfire margin, only cylinder 4, every time. Now what I have done is to exchange the injectors, problem remains on cyl4.
-replaced the coils, problem remains on cyl4,
-clean the EGR, problem remains on cyl4,
-opened the engine to see the valves, cylinders, pistons, exchanged the ring set,problem remains on cyl 4,
Replaced the wheels, the problem is still there, now I want to replace the drive shafts.
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Unfortunately I've neglected changing the spark plugs in a while. I've done so now with NGK iridiums. But still throwing the code. Thought it may be the ignition coil next. Swapped the current coils around to see if the code would change and no such luck. Erase the code and it still comes up as P0304.
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