Sonata NF (2006-10) :: Single Speaker Suddenly Stopped Playing
Jul 1, 2014
I have a 2009 Sonata Limited with the Infinity sound system.
Was driving along today, with music and bass quite loud and the front driver door speaker just simply turned off. All other speakers work fine, including the tweeter on the driver side.
Before I take apart the door panel to check for connections (my main suspect), I'd like to have your opinions on this issue. I already broke the tweeter panel when taking it off to replace my broken side mirror, I'd rather skip taking this off again, with the door panel, if I don't have to. But I assume it will be inevitable to get started!
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I had a new condenser put in last summer and the aircon has worked fine since then. Hot weather last week, aircon worked for a few days, then suddenly not working any more. The ac magnetic clutch is kicking in, the fuses all seem ok, I removed the low and high pressure caps and there seems to be a bit of freon fizzing on the valve after I removed the caps so I assume pressure is ok (don't have gauges -maybe Ill buy on ebay). Is there a low pressure switch that I can bypass to see if that makes it work?? or something else I can do? I assume if the clutch is kicking in and there is no squealing, that the compressor is probably ok?
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My remote controls just stop working. 2006 Chevrolet Impala LTZ .
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Recently, I have had 3 instances where my car alarm suddenly goes off. All times, my car was parked in my garage, unlocked. The keys were sitting on the table and had not been touched.
The only thing is that I think the battery in my remote is started to get low I think but I don't really see how that would cause this issue.
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My fiance was driving my 2001 Accent, 1.6 manual trans, when it suddenly died. Now when I try to start it, I only get a single click. I also tried popping the clutch and nothing.
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I have a 2007 Hyundia Sonata. Currently have a 7" after-market head unit, four after-market speakers and a sub that is currently not plugged in. I also put HIDs in the low beams. It has about 73,000 miles on it. I bought it when it had 36,000 about a year and a half ago.
The first time I noticed an issue was about 3-4 months ago. Both of my stock headlights went out at the same time. I checked all fuses, nothing blown. Odd right? I thought there might be something going on with the electric but I was like O.K. i guess i'll get new ones, i could use some brighter ones anyways. So I went with Sylvia SilverstarUltra's. These lasted 2-3 months before one went out. I didn't think at the time that this was connected to the previous problem because only one went out and I drive a LOT with my headlights on during the day and SilverStarUltras have a short life span. So I bought an HID kit off ebay (just the ballast and bulb, not really a 'kit'). I installed them on Jan 28th. Today, Feb. 25, they both went out. NOT COOL!
Electronics : Sometimes as I am driving the electronics in the car "de-surge" if you will. Another words, they seem as though they have less power, the interior lights dim, the fan for the heats slows. This happens only for a second and then returns to normal. It has happened a few time. I don't remember the stereo being effected however.
Sub : The sub on my speaker system. A couple of months or so ago I noticed that my sub on my speaker system had stopped working. It was installed late last summer. I investigated and found no potential short, the ground was secure, and no fuses were blown. I didn't even think this could be related to everything else until today, but it kinda seems like it might be.
I was wondering if maybe I had created a short of some type when installing the stereo system. However nothing in the stereo system seems to be effect besides the sub. Which gets it's power directly from the battery, not the stereo system.
I read on another thread about a older Elantra that had this problem and someone mentioned that it could be the regulator in the alternator going bad and intermittently outputting too much voltage. Although I don't know why that would make the fan and lights in the car slow/dim. I'm currently trying to find someone who can lend me a voltmeter.
How I could locate an electrical problem with my stereo install, or elsewhere in my car?
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I have really driven my Corolla until the stereo system stopped working a month old. The audio just stopped during one rainy day when I was playing a CD.
The stereo unit appears still functioning and I was able to take the stereo out and un-plug/re-plug in the 4 wires connectors in the back. A couple of times, by doing this, the audio came back for 10~15 minutes and then went silent after that.
So, what could be the cause of the issues? Could it be there some short in the wiring? How would trouble shoot this issue further?
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A loud throbbing noise suddenly started last night in the rear speaker of my 2010 Santa Fe. I think the speaker is blown. Can I pull the fuse until I can get this to the dealer? Which fuse? I can not locate a fuse map. I tried #13 and #31 based on an old fuse map online but the noise continued.
The noise is loud and I can't drive with my toddler in the car.
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My 2009 Hyundai Sonata's dashboard readings suddenly went "dead" yesterday that is - the fuel gauge read empty, the speedo wasn't registering nor was the tachometer and the led display couldn't be altered? What might be wrong and whether I can do anything to fix it?
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Today my transmission suddenly disengaged while slowing down from 3rd to 2nd as if i switched to neutral.Car revved freely when i pressed accelerator. Then suddenly after a second it engaged again and shifted normally. Never had this issue before i racked up 1,29,000 KM on my ride.
I can't see it as "slipping" as there was no change in speed and it revved freely. Also I 'm due for fluid change. What can be the issue?
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So i have a 2005 Sonata GLS and it has been giving me issues. A week or so ago, the 'check engine' came on so I took it to the shop to have it fix. Problem fix, no more light popping up. Now two days ago, the car all of a sudden started stalling and hesitating while I was driving. I kept pressing the gas and the car will accelerate to 40 before slowing down to 20 and the acceleration will then drop as well. I had a mechanic look at the issue and he said it was the throttle position sensor. He changed the sensor and its still acting up. He said to buy the carburetor cleaner and it worked fine for a hour until we drove it again. The problem is still not fix.
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My problem is on wed I was driving my car,when I suddenly lost acceleration power, after pulling over to the side of the road I turned off the car and restarted it. However I still had the same problem with acceleration. After a while of trying to get the car to start I called a tow truck and got it towed to the dealer. When I got there they told me it was likely and issue with with a sensor on the gas pedal and the engine. At the dealership I started the car to show them the problem however the car drove perfectly and no engine light came on.
They told me it was most like what they said over the phone the sensors. However on xmas eve they called me and left a voicemail saying the rear cat had went out and taken out both rear exhaust manifolds and it would coast $3000 to fix. My question is how can all that happen without the checking engine light coming on in the car and the car showing no problems while i was driving it and how did they miss it when I had took the car in two weeks earlier for regular maintenance and to correct a drive belt issue due to it walking after I purchased a new drive belt and pulley.
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Today my Media system rebooted twice while playing a CD...
The first time it happened was right on start of the car. Was stuck at the confirm "you know how to drive" screen then it rebooted and came up fine.
The next time was at the end of my drive went to lower the volume. The volume bar updated, but the actual volume of the system didn't change. The system then rebooted and came back up fine.
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Is it possible to play any videos in the navigation screen? Thinking of playing videos off my camera or phone.
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Our 2015 Prius 4 with 8,900 miles just suddenly stopped chirping and turning the lights off upon locking. The courtesy lights also no longer work (the lights worked last night as I approached the car but not tonight. The locking chirp/beep worked 3 hours ago but not now. Also headlights no longer go out after double clicking lock on either of the 2 fob.)
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Car: 2007 Sonata 2.4L
I hadn't used my car for like 3 weeks until yesterday when I drove back to PA from MA. I turned the car on, a/c on and went for a nice 6 hour drive. About 2 hours in (with a/c working) I stopped for a break. The a/c blower would not turn on at that point. I could hear the compressor clicking on (and the RPMs would respond appropriately). I tried turning it off and on a couple of times but no go. I decided to keep on driving and figure it out when I got home.
About hour 5 I turned the knob from OFF to Max A/C and it turned on! It worked fine all the way home. I drove the car a couple of more times last night with no A/C issues at all. Well today the same thing happened. Went to go drive and no a/c blower. Compressor still turning on. I changed the only fuse/relay I could find that was dedicated to the blower inside the engine compartment (40A) with no luck. Am I missing any other important fuses?
Being that it intermittently works I'm thinking something might be lose or some electrical connection.
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This afternoon my instruments (speedo, Odo, Tach, fuel, and temp) stopped working. At first they were stuck in the position where they stopped. Got home and found a fuse labeled "cluster." Pulled and replaced it and all that happened was that the needles dropped to zero when I started engine again. Is there another fuse besides the one labeled "Cluster" in the box near the driver door?
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I have a 2007 Sonata 2.0 crdi which is poorly. The heater stopped blowing out hot air on Saturday. The heater is only blowing slightly warm air. The passenger side seems to be slightly warmer. I have looked at the side of the heater matrix whilst rotating the temp control on the passenger side and this moves the plastic adjuster on the matrix freely. When I turn the fan speed controller then the adjustment on the drivers side on the matrix moves. Both of these move freely.
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This is for my gf's 2010 sonata. The instrument cluster stopped working but then after a couple days it started again. Once again it stopped working. This time I checked the fuse and it was fine, there was power going to it. I was able to get it to start working again by disconnecting the battery. I hate electrical shorts. I have done some research but haven't come up with anything other than re-seat the cluster or replace it. I plan on doing that the next time it stops working. I'm thinking it might have something to do with the ignition, but i really don't know.
Engine codes are P0011/P0014/P0462
The P0011/P0014 are, i think, the oil control valve. I ordered that.
The P0462 code has to do with low voltage to the fuel level sensor, but the gas gauge has worked fine, well other than when none of the gauges work. Still I don't think it relates to cluster problem.
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