2006 Sonata 3.3 liter engine with 123K miles. While driving between 30-40 mph, when I "feather" the gas pedal the car will shudder. It does not happen every time but it usually happens a couple times when it does. I see no change in rpm, transmission fluid is at a good level.
View 2 RepliesI just bought a 2007 Sonata V6 (GL or GLS). Before buying the car, the last owner had the rear brakes "serviced" because the mechanic said the brakes were "sticking" - charged the old owner $300 for it. When I am on the highway and I brake, the rear brakes shudder. Do you think the shudder is because the rear brakes are still sticking, or because it needs new rotors?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2010 Sonata GLS 4-cylinder approximately 124K miles which has been hesitating on hard accelerations for about 8 months. It will usually do this when getting on an on-ramp for the freeway or if I need to do a U-turn and get up to speed quickly. What happens is I punch the gas and the vehicle acts as if it's not getting any gas and hesitates or stalls and then it finally takes off. Usually I see a cloud of grey/white smoke behind the car enough that I am unable to see any cars in my rear view mirror.
I do not seem to see a difference when the vehicle is warm/cold. I do not have a CEL nor have had one. I have replaced the MAP sensor, PCV valve and spark plugs (properly gapped). I have done a compression test and am getting roughly 180-185 psi per cylinder. I am not experiencing any oil loss/coolant loss, do not see any oil in the coolant or gummed-up or oily spark plugs. I have also replaced the transmission fluid, doing a drain and flushing the torque converter. I have also cleaned the throttle body, and am using a new air filter and the oil has been changed within the past 1000 miles.
About once every 4-6 months or so, when I floor the accelerator, my Sonata behaves in a very odd way. Instead of the typical surge of acceleration, it actually hesitates/decelerates for a second or so, then kicks in like normal. This is so pronounced that I lunge forward in my seat a bit before it kicks in. I've not yet been in a situation were this behavior has endangered me but it is quite disconcerting when it does happen. Obviously this is not something that is repeatable in a manner for any shop to diagnose. There is no CEL and it occurs so infrequently that I'm not that concerned about it yet. The only consistency about this is that this occurs while driving around town after I've slowed down to around 5-10 MPH approaching a light, taken a right turn and then attempt to accelerate into traffic. Since I'm usually in a turn lane, I'm out of the way of traffic and can adjust to this situation without any issues to either myself or the traffic around me.
View 7 RepliesOk, got a hesitation when the engine is cold, almost feels like a miss. Dealer could not find anything and there are no engine codes. They wanted to replace the plugs with new platinum plugs. I said did you pull any plugs, not that is what the tech said it could be. Could it be the Mass air flow sensor? Or a coil. After a mile or 2 it is fine. I switched to shell premium since dealer told me I had to get a decarbonization from using cheap gas. I used exxon regular and BP regular with a treat of premium every few tanks. But now I am on shell and they said I needed another decarbonization, This is getting rather expensive, I may go back to my local mechanic once the warranty is out. But the hesitation puzzles me.
View 2 RepliesDoesn't happen all the time but when it does it is obvious at 45 mph. Not there at no load on engine. No code shown.
View 8 RepliesMy father has an 05/06 4cyl Sonata automatic that he keeps in good shape. They commuted a fair distance before they retired last year, so the car has around 70k miles on it. He'd mentioned to me a few months back that it had a bit of a transmission hesitation when cruising at a steady 75-85km/h. I'd forgotten about it until I drove the car the other day...
What happens is that after cruising for around ten minutes at steady speed, the transmission begins to 'stutter'. It's not any huge event, but it's almost as if the engine was misfiring, which is the feeling you get. A small stuttering as power drops for a few tenths of a second, then comes back, then drops again, repeatedly. What he tells me he does to get away from this is to decelerate to a lower speed and hold there(~70km/h or lower) or repeatedly accelerate and decelerate gently from 75km/h to 85km/h. Both of these worked. I also found a third solution, that if you move the gear selector from 'D' to the 'manual shift' mode (it usually goes to '4' in these circumstances) the problem disappears and the car drives fine. Regular upshifts and downshifts are fine in both automatic and manual modes, and the fluid level is normal.
What burns me is that he'd taken the car in for servicing before the end of his regular warranty period and was told, "Oh, that's normal. They ALL do that. It's just the computer trying to re-learn how you drive." I can't STAND how dealer techs try to take advantage of people like this. Yes, the ECUs self-learn and yes there can be dramatic issues when a new ECU or transmission or whatnot is installed until it happens, but this kind of thing doesn't happen 'out of the blue'! I told him to take it back and put the screws to 'em that they should fix it under warranty since that's when the problem was reported. Otherwise, push them for a really good deal on a new Sonata Turbo...
Relative owns a 2007 Sonata 3.3L V6 (58k or so), purchased from in-laws so no warranty, unfortunately. Recently, in cold weather the car has developed hesitation issues upon start up, ESC-Off light illuminates and CEL. Has to restart for somewhat normal operation.
Had a chance to look at it today and CEL had already turned off and only code stored is P2135.
Researching issue (mostly here, so thx!), looks like TPS is faulty and can be replaced separate from throttle body to save $.
My Sonata has developed a hesitation when accelerating from a standstill. Sometimes the symptom is worse. I haven't identified any correlation of this symptom with any other scenarios.
Symptom : When at a stand-still, lightly pressing on the gas pedal doesn't result in corresponding slow acceleration, it is only after a certain threshold (of throttle application) has passed that power from the engine is transmitted to the wheels. When this occurs, the result is a jerky start.
In other words, trying to feather the gas pedal to allow a gradual and smooth acceleration from stand-still is not possible when this issue occurs.
I believe the 09' Sonata has a drive by wire throttle correct? If so, could this be a computer calibration issue?
I have a 2007 3.3L Sonata.
The car has been sitting for around 8 hours. Wh en I start it, the idle moves up and down about 100rmps. When I drive off there is a slight hesitation until I have driven for about 10-15 minutes. The idle is nice and steady after the too.
If I use a fuel system cleaner, it appears the car is fine for awhile and then the issue comes back.
I bought a used 2008 Sonata GLS with 65K miles 2 years ago. It's been a great car so far. For the first 25K miles that I drove it, it had good pickup and got ~30 MPG for my highway driving. In the last ~5K miles, the fuel mileage has dropped to 25MPG highway and it has some hesitation when accelerating, especially on lower RPM's. I changed the spark plugs with NGK Iridium, but it is still having the issue. What to check?
Some possibilities: ignition coils, sensors, timing belt, etc?
I purchased a 2007 Sonata with the 3.3L about six months ago. I really like the car, it has a lot of good features and lots of power; however, I am starting to have problems with the car. On accelerating from a stopped position the car almost quits (hesitates severely) and then picks up and goes on normally. Also, between 40 and 50 mph the car starts to jerk pretty hard for a few seconds and then it straightens out and runs normally again; it will do this repeatedly if it is kept between 40 and 50 mph.
When this first started happening the CEL would come on randomly and stay on for a day or two and then go off. While the CEL was on I took it to Autozone and had them pull the code, they said it was the crankshaft position sensor. Well based on the symptoms the diagnosis made sense. I replaced the sensor and the car seemed to be running normally on the 30 minute test drive. The next day my wife drove to work and she said the same symptoms had come back. It has been several weeks since I replaced the sensor and the CEL has not come back on. I have seen several postings about the spark plugs and wires and that is my next step. BTW the car has 94k miles.
Just bought a 1998 5.4l F-150 Lariat. 136,000 miles.
Question about the overdrive button on trans handle. When I push the button, I don't see any light turn on (or off) and I don't feel any change in the gear ratio or increase/decrease in rpm's. I assume since the button in there marked "overdrive" that the vehicle in fact was equipped with it. Could it be a bad button, fuse, or ?
Also, it just started the shudder/hesitation at certain speeds that I see a lot on these threads. Seems like that is a coil issue as the description in many threads is exactly what I am experiencing to incl the rotten egg/fuel odor. However, it started the same day (not same time, later same day) I decided to push the overdrive button while checking out all the things on the truck.
I will add as many details as possible :
2000 f150 4x4 offroad package
5.4L with 131k on it
new Dorman intake manifold
new Global Automotive (Ebay) COPs
New Motorcraft spark plugs
About 1500 miles ago I started throwing a code signifying a cylinder 3 misfire. The truck would bog down real bad and then after 5-6 seconds of no power it would return to normal. I tried replacing the COP (both with new and then with one from another cylinder) and plugs but no resolution. So I talked to the local ford service manager and he said it sounded like intake manifold problems.
Replaced the intake manifold and no more codes were being thrown.
1500 miles later and today the truck started having a hesitation/shudder when I was sitting in a drive-thru. I put the truck in neutral and park and neither solved the issue. With the earlier issue, when I would put in neutral and increased rpm, the issue would resolve.
I pulled out of the drive-thru and the hesitation was consistent no matter what the rpm or speed. The truck feels almost sluggish and lacks power. The hesitation is like 2x/second. When accelerating its almost like the rpms and speed hesitate, jump, hesitate, jump.
I have never had a car with automatic transmission that did not also have low gear or others besides overdrive. We are going to the Rockies and I would like to know how to get my car to use lower gears for accent and decent without over revving or constant gear shifts that I expect with the normal drive gear.
View 10 Replies3 days ago I bought 2006 sonata GL (I4) from a guy. He showed me his service record and he had his oil change right before he sold the car to me. However, I notice a fairly big oil drop on the ground after I drove for a while and parked. I tried three times and it all dropped.
One thing that I noticed was that the oil was dropping from the shield on the bottom of the car. So I looked into the engine and I have noticed bunch oil oil wet spot around the oil filter hole on the shield. I have Wix oil filter currently. Is the leak coming from the filter?
My 06 sonata drop into neutral while driving. Any clues as to why this would happen?
View 2 RepliesWe have a 2009 Sonata with barely 50k miles - always garaged. It has been a great car but recently has come up with a couple of quirks.
I was driving last week and heard a loud "pop" behind me. Really loud..... I pulled over and found that the left rear window was missing!
I took the car to a local auto glass place and they found the missing window down in the door, I really though that it had fallen out and actually went back to the spot on the road where the noise happened and looked for it.
Anyway, the glass shop lifted the window back in place but had little interest in making the power part work again.
Now, I have had power windows fail on other cars before but they always got stuck, I have never had one "disappear". Would this be a safety issue that Hyundai might cover?
I bought this 06 GLS 3.3l v6 and owned it a week. 96k miles on it. The car started displaying "random misfire" codes two days before it died. I was on the way to drop it off to a shop to have it looked at then it shut down and would not restart. Got under the hood checked all fuses/relays and everything was fine. I tried turning over and it will not even turn over. Fuel pump does not come on. Thought maybe dead battery but I replaced that after towing it home. Tried with the same result. Removed starter and had it tested at two stores to verify from multiple sources. Starter is good. Left battery in car for two weeks with car off and battery was drained to 0 CCA and 0.9vlts left in it. I troubleshoot with a test light to see if I have something drawing on the battery more than normal. 30amp fuse labeled I/P(B+)2 was causing a draw. What circuit is this and what may be causing my dead in the water symptoms?
View 5 RepliesMy 07 is making a clicking noise while pushing on the gas, in cruise mode and while idling but doesn't click when I take my foot off the gas. It sounds like cards in bicycle spokes.
View 4 RepliesTonight while driving and accelerating fairly hard we began to hear a noise. The car sat parked for roughly 5 hours and then we began to drive it home (apx. 12-15 miles). About halfway through the drive the power steering went out and the battery light came on. The battery light would turn off and the drivers seatbelt light would come on even while it was buckled. These two lights alternated being on and off 2 times each. We heard something that sounded like a rock got kicked up into a wheel well. After getting the car home with no power steering we noticed the car had begun to run very hot. almost all the way up the gauge.
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