Is it bad shifting from drive to neutral then back to drive going 40mph without pressing on the gas only coasting on a daily bases?
2008 Sonata GLS ... Automatic transmission ...
2009 Sonata, 4 Cylinder, Auto. 80K mileage, runs well.
I have noticed intermittently that when shifting either out of park to drive, or drive to park that the starter begins grinding as if it is being engaged. The last few times I have jiggled the key and this stopped it.
Googled and found some folks saying it might be the ignition switch selector but am really unsure right now.
08 Expedition... I drive an automatic and I frequently shift to neutral during down or cruise to a stop light. Does this affect the gear assembly, brakes, etc.
View 13 Replies"95, 2.3L, automatic. Stalls for a couple of seconds and nearly dies when shifting from drive to neutral or from drive to park. Doesn't do it when cold at high idle or when AC is on. It catches back up and idles fine but nearly dies when coming out of drive. Installed a new idle air control valve but no change.
View 1 RepliesEarly senility or perhaps just a busy mind has led me to turn off the ignition key before shifting from drive back to park. This is obviously not natural for the car but it did not seem to do any harm. I am wondering however if it can be damaged by this?
View 6 RepliesRecently I've noticed that every time when shifting from park to drive and occasionally from reverse to drive in my 05 Golf GLS, I would have to remain off the gas for 3-4 seconds otherwise the car would jerk forward. If I press on the gas ever so slightly, the rpm would go up to around 1000 then jerk. Why this is happening?
View 2 RepliesEco Transmission. Neutral at stop lights save gas compared to Drive?
I almost feel like when I'm stopped in Drive it's actually in neutral. I'm curious if being in Neutral at really long red lights would save gas?
Vehicle was repaired after front end collision and I get no codes found on scanner, had some bad connectors which I replaced and codes went away. I don't get ready light and the dash lights do not cycle off (ABS, SRS, Check engine, Etc. Etc.) The car will shift into neutral but not drive or reverse. Has new Aux battery and Hybrid battery is showing two bars. What to check ?
View 6 RepliesMy 2011 Hatchback automatic has developed a whine in park, neutral and drive. ATF fluid level ok and changed by dealer every 25,000 miles. Seems to be coming from under the car. Could it be the transmission oil pump? If so, does it mean removing transmission to replace? I don't think it's the fuel pump. 62,000 miles.
View 5 RepliesSo my car has recently begun having an issue shifting hard into drive after it warms up. It doesnt shift weird in any other gear or while driving. I had the trans temp sensor replaced last year under the tsb due to it shifting weird in all gears and a CEL. I was thinking either the fluid level or another bad sensor.
View 2 RepliesI've got a 2006 F250 6.0 5R110W 4wd 220,000 miles It started getting a slight delay going into reverse and tow light flashing last week. all else functioning perfect Got a pending code P0700 and P0741 I stopped at NAPA when I was leaving no reverse checked every thing all was normal no leaks and fluid good color drove perfect in drive I got back to the shop [10 miles] put truck in park it was like its still in drive same with neutral, in reverse it wants to creep forward.
View 1 RepliesI own an automatic 2009 Accent. I'm at 95,000KM.
Anyway, the problem does not occur all the time and appears to be entirely random.
When I start my car, on occasion, the car will make a CLUNK sound when shifting from park to reverse or drive. When it does CLUNK, you can feel the car lurch as if something fell out of place. The sound is quite audible, even with the radio on. The sound and lurch is not as pronounced when shifting to reverse. It doesn't seem to happen when going to neutral but is very obvious when going to drive.
Turning off the engine and restarting it seems to resolve the issue. Once I had to restart the engine twice before the clunk stopped.
Attempting to drive when the car does this sound results in increased RPMS. Usually when driving the RPMS sit between 2000 and 3000 but would jump to between 3000 and 4000 when the clunk occurs. Usually, the car will want to crawl forward if I'm not on the brakes but with the clunk, the car need quite some gas to start going forward.
Here's where it gets scary:
On two occasions, while driving on the highway at 100km (65 miles), I'd feel something slip and then suddenly my RPMS jump up by 1000. On both occasions I had to pull over, turn off engine and restart the car and the issue stopped.
Clearly, whatever it is that changes gears is slipping but the fact that it slips while driving just freaks me out.
Lately my transmission has delayed shifting into first when I shift my car into drive on cold starts. It delays for usually about 2-3 seconds then kicks hard into first. The rest of the shifts are smooth and on time. I've tried replacing my transmission fluid, but that doesn't seem to fix it. Is there an actual problem with my transmission? I had the TCM replaced when it would get stuck and not shift. I have a 2009 GLS with around 53k on it.
View 6 RepliesSo I have a 06 350 and I'm getting clunking from drive to reverse and now with drive too, I know my rear diff is on it's last days but I am wondering if that could cause the clunking and now my truck around 90km shakes likes crazy and same thing wana know if that's the diff. And if I was to fix diff myself would it not just be easier for me to just swap axles if I wanted to be cheap??
View 12 RepliesWhen I drive on a hot day the engine overheads; it almost red-lines. This occurs mostly when I drive up long steep hills (I live in the mountains) with the AC on, but even without the AC on very long steep hills (5+ miles) the engine will overheat badly. I can go over a hill and head downhill or flat and things return to normal quickly. I can also drive with the AC on doing 0-80 mph on a flat road and everything is fine all the time.
- Fan is working
- Thermostat has been replaced
- Radiator flushed
- Engine coolant temp sensor replaced
- Heat is working
I bought a 2009 Sonata V6 this past August. Immediately I had shifting problems. I asked my mechanic and he found the TSB. I took it to Hyundai and they took care of the TSB. The shifting problems stopped, but it is STILL literally JUMPING out of reverse when I'm going into drive. Dealer said they could not reproduce the problem.
I am a Toyota driver, and chose the Sonata based on price. So far, I am not impressed and plan to return to Toyota when this one is paid off. But, in the meantime, I want this car fixed, but the dealer acts like there is nothing wrong. I have warranty for another 25,000 miles....
Today after work I cranked up the car (06 sonata) and walked around the car as I always do to check that all lights are good. I found the passenger side brake light out (wasnt' out this morning) so I drove 1/4 mile to autozone and got a replacement. Cranked back up and all is good so I jump on the highway and about 3 miles later the ECS & ABS lights come on the dash. Do I not have brakes? so I lightly push the brakes and the car slows down but I don't see the red from the 3rd brake light. I jump off at the next exit to see what's going on. I pull into a shell station and put the car in park but in won't go in park, only neutral? So I put it in neutral and set the parking brake, get out too look at the rear lights. The lights were on but when I pressed the brakes they did not get brighter nor did the 3rd brake light come on. Got back on the highway, drove the car straight home avoiding braking while on the interstate. I had to stick my key inside that little release thing to get the car in park, so now it's stuck in park. The car will stay parked until I can get it towed to the dealer, which probably won't be until Monday/Tuesday because on the holidays.
View 28 Replies 2006 price with going back - rest about 105K miles on it. Recently the dashboard lit up like a Christmas tree with all the warning lights. Battery fan runs non-stop as soon as the car is started and if driven, the gas engine never turns off. When it happened I was circling the neighborhood looking for parking. After about 5 minutes the car dropped out of drive and wouldn't go back in until I shut down and restarted. The battery still charges, and holds a charge when left parked. What is most likely the culprit before I bring it in this afternoon? The dealer is 3.5 miles away (about 15-minute drive in Chicago). Am I risking further damage driving it in? Should I call for a tow?
Update: A check of the inverter coolant reservoir shows that coolant is flowing. Ripples on the surface.
I have an issue with a 1993 Ford Tempo. It is owned by a auto parts store and is used for deliveries so it gets a lot of use from day to day. Several different mechanics have looked at it and no one can figure out exactly whats wrong.
The issue is this - The car stalls out at about 2 or 3 oclock everyday after being used for deliveries starting at 9 oclock. It will stall while idling in park, while stopped in drive, while coasting/accelerating in drive. The temperature is normal. Is will start to idle and run very rough and the car is less responsive to the gas pedal about 10 minutes before it stalls.
Once it stalls, if it is allowed to sit for about half an hour it will start and run fine for a little longer but eventually stall again. After it sits for a few hours it is fine to run for a few hours again. If you try to start it right after it stalls the first time the engine will turn over but stall out again in a few seconds, if you keep trying to restart it it will eventually not even crank. Also it will occasionally stall like this/run rough in the first 10-20 minutes of driving.
I have a V6. Very happy with it...no real problems, but I do notice a fair amount of drive train gear lash noise when the vehicle is coasting and the windows are open. Is this normal? It not like it sounds really bad and hasn't gotten worse in the 2500 miles since I have my Treg...but I would like to know if it is normal.
View 10 RepliesIn idle and driving the car sounds rough as if a pulley was loose, after checking no pulley was loose but problem still persists. Tried turning wheel left n right n noise didn't go away or get worse its a constant noise, what it may be? Crankshaft pulley? Idler pulley?
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