Sonata NF (2006-10) :: Rough Idle / Lack Of Power Under 2000 RPMs
Feb 4, 2015
I have a 06 sonata 3.3L v6. I have been having misfire problems and lack of power under 2000 rpms and at idle when I am either a stop or just warming the car. What is happening I feel it shake and feel the misfire but after it gets up after 2000 rpm at highway speeds its completely fine. It struggles getting up to speed if i press on the accelerator. I have changed the spark plugs and all the ignition coils maybe about 2 months ago, I have also have changed the camshaft position sensor for the rear bank. I believe that it could be the crankshaft position sensor but I want to make sure....
Obd2 codes: p300,301, 303, p0012, p0011, p0014,
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I have an 06 Pathfinder LE that was running fine earlier. got to a location and when i went to drive home it was a tough start, rough idle and lack of power. got an 0302 code so i changed out the plugs and swapped the # 2 coil for # 4. once started still ran rough as described. read code again after clearing and code still ran 0302, didn't follow coil. is the #2 coil on drivers side as i have read?
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Having some problems with an e-350 dying when in gear and rough idle. Truck starts up after it dies. Vehicle acts like it is starving for fuel. I have check fuel pressure after fuel pump and getting 55psi. High oil pressure pump with in normal ranges. Cleaned and checked egr and it was in the closed position. Fuel filters have been changed. Injector buzz test ok.
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I have a 2002 F350 4wd with the 7.3. I was driving the truck and all of a sudden it was running like crap. the engine light was on. after a minute or so the engine light goes off and the truck is running fine. then again starts running like crap. I am close to the house so I limp it home. runs like crap.... will barley climb small hills. engine light is on. get home turn it off... next day... starts up and runs great for 10 - 15 min. engine light comes back on... runs like crap.... my neighbor says "It's the crank position sensor" I replace it.... runs great for a month.... now it's doing the same thing......
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I was measured 0-60 time and the best result with GPS was 11.4, and that is pretty disappointing. Also noticed that after changing from second to third gear while pushing to the read line on full throttle it have about 1 second delay without power, then starts to pull again!? Is this normal?
It is '2006 sonata with 2.4 160hp, everything with car is ok but from the first time I bought it (8 months ago) it just feels sluggish.
I found on carfolio that 0-60 time for that car is 8.8 seconds, and mine is 30% slower... that is too much! Also from the first time have problem with starting in 1st gear, it is almost unusable because it is syper sensitive on foot, is this normal?
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My car has had a rough idle (no MIL). Scanned for codes and got the following:
P0552 - Power Steering Pressure Sensor - Low
P0553 - Power Steering Pressure Sensor - High
I'm picking up the part at the dealer this afternoon. I printed out a diagram of the component location, and it looks to be easily accessible.
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I've been experiencing an annoying intermittent condition on my '07 Sonata (Lambda V6). I wanted to share this in case any of you are experiencing intermittent rough idle complaints in your Sonata (4G) as well. I was finally able to get it into the dealership during the malfunction; in my case, the MIL never lit. Here are the symptoms: ONLY after being fully warmed up, when coming to a full stop, or using just idle speed to, for example, pull into a parking space, or inch up to a stoplight, I would experience a very rough idle (I could hear the engine sputtering with the window down), see the RPM gauge bouncing, and feel the vehicle going "putt-putt-putt" as it tried to keep running under what seemed to be a misfire or too much load. The problem occurred more noticeably with the A/C off but still did occur with it on as well. While exhibiting this problem, acceleration from a stop gave a slight hesitation as well, but once going faster than 1,000RPMs, the problem went away totally. I thought it must have been my imagination until one day, I pulled up in front of a glass window and could see the reflection of my car lurching forward as it struggled to keep idling. Getting it to the dealership while it was behaving badly was the hardest part.
Once I got there, I got a tech to ride with me and finally, after 3 visits to the dealership, someone else witnessed the problem. Up until now, I've been asking people, "Do you feel/hear that?" "Huh?" I digress... The tech immediately said he thought it was a power steering issue and he thought there was an upcoming bulletin on it. I was sure he was wrong, I was thinking it had to be the spark plugs, wires, MAF, or TPS.
After getting the part in for me (Power Steering Sensor Switch) they put it in today and my vehicle is just as new again. It was never a serious issue, but was rather embarrassing to try and show off my Sonata and have it stutter and sputter like that it idle.
This part is complete speculation; maybe a more knowledgeable person can jump in here and correct any logical errors: Apparently, there is a switch in the Power Steering Unit that detects highway speeds versus slower speeds. When vehicle speed is above a certain limit, the power steering pump is either turned off or "turned way down" (so people get the stiffer feel of the wheel at highway speeds). When the vehicle slows down to idle (to be detected by this switch), the vehicle expects the power steering pump will draw full power from the engine and needs to have a slightly higher idle speed to compensate for the load. My switch was malfunctioning; it was not registering to the ECM that the power steering pump was under load when it actually was; the vehicle then did not bump up the idle speed appropriately, and thus, the rough idle and hesitation.
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As of late, my 06 Camry (I4) idle's real rough @ 600 rpms when in park. It stays the same in drive with the A/C on. However, when I switch the A/C off, for about 2 secs, the idle will be smooth before dropping down in rpms. Some folks have said this is normal, but I've had this happened to my car before. I've got 135K on it so I'm guess a tune up is in order.
I'm new in the game of working on my car myself since a past issue with the dealer on my '06. So if all is needed is a tune up, I can do that myself with the parts of my choice.
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I feel my 2009 Sonata with 25k miles has a fast startup idle.
It goes upto 2200 RPMs. It runs fine otherwise.
I will keep an eye on it to get more RPMs and timing.
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I have a 07 Hyundai sonata that has a rattling noise only during acceleration and only at just under 2000 rpm's. I went to a mechanic who checked the heat shields and exhaust only to tell me it was in the transaxel and sent me to a transmission shop. the transmission shop told me they think its the hydraulic lifters, and sent me elsewhere.
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Well, it's looking sort of depressing for my '06 Sonata! I had an oil change done yesterday and now I'm getting a Low Oil Pressure Light on idle under 1,000 rpm's. Today the check engine light came on and it's code P0021.
I also experience very noisy "bearing" type noise upon start-up which happens for about 10 seconds or so. This has been going on for a month or so.
During my online research it's appearing that I may be suffering from the dreaded Timing Chain Tensioner I've read a lot about.
I'm aware of the TSB (10-EM-006) and have a copy of it if needed.
My question is this...my Sonata has 151,000 miles on it, well beyond the 100k warranty period. Will Hyundai repair my issue as a warranty item under that TSB?
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While I'm cursing at highway speed everything is fine. But when u punch it it pass someone it's like I actually slow down, same from a red light. I've got a livewire programmer in it and this problem is somewhat new. It just seems to keep getting worse, I was going up a hill on the interstate this morning and at 2800 rpms I was actually slowing down. I'm not sure if the fuel pump is going out or if the transmission is slipping or what.
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I have a 95 Buick Regal, V6 3.8 Liter. The symptoms are the following: stuttering idle. And lack of response at times when I try to accelerate. Like sometimes I'll be driving on the highway, and having no problems. Then I'll be going up a hill at around 55 mph, and then the car will shudder as I try to maintain a speed of 55 mph. So I have to ease off the accelerator and slow down. At first I thought this was a transmission problem, but I am guessing it's the same problem that causes my choppy idle.
So I had this acceleration problem on the highway when I was going up a hill. And a weak idle. These problems have been going on for several months now. They were annoying, but didn't seem that serious. Then all of a sudden, on a rainy day, the car was really responding poorly to acceleration at all speeds. I was able to drive around, but I couldn't count on the car responding right away when I hit the gas pedal. And the car would shudder at times. Then, I didn't drive the car for a few days, and then it was dry, no rain, and the car ran better. So I am thinking humidity makes the problem worse.
I have also noticed over the past few months, that the car runs best when I start it up after a few days of not running it. Then if I drive the car a few miles and let it sit for about 2 hours or so, it would idle weakly when I would start it up again. The car's been doing that for several months now, but it wasn't really affecting the drivability or the response of the car when I hit the gas pedal.
Now it's gotten much worse. So, I've already replaced the following items myself to no avail: mass air flow sensor, oxygen sensor, and egr valve. I am guessing the next thing to fix is the pcv valve. But I also think it might be the fuel pump. My first guess though is the pcv valve. What else could it be? And is there any easy way to test to see if the fuel pump is going bad? Or should I just take out the pcv valve and see if it looks bad?
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I have a 2006 Hyundia Sonata. I idles really bad like you pulled 5 of the six plug wires off when you put it in gear. Once you start moving a couple miles an hour it is fine. It is also perfect in park or neutral, not a hint of a problem. Put it in drive or reverse and it almost stalls.
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I have a 2006 Sorento, Idle at start, when cold is 2000 to 2200 rpms. When engine warms idle comes down to normal, 1000.
Replaced several vacuum lines, none showed any leaking but replaced to be sure.
Replaced the PCV valve, the old valve was not closing as it should and the replacement seemed to work some.
Replaced the Idle Air Control Valve and checked the old one for movement, moved an 1/8 of and inch from when cold to when hot. The new IAC did improve the problem some.
Tested throttle position sensor voltage, was good through range of motion (including being tapped on to simulate the running of the engine).
Sprayed carburetor cleaner around the engine when cold to look for a possible manifold leak, nothing noted.
Noticed one area that brings down the high idle when sprayed with carburetor cleaner is in the front top center, around a small plastic cylinder which is part of the intake system and has a vacuum manifold which changes the position of the cylinder with engine operation. I have two pictures of the area attached, the white cylinder is at end of paint stick, the vacuum manifold is to the right of the paint stick and yes there are vacuum lines not hooked up in the pictures. Hoping this is not a manifold leak.
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2007 Sonata V6 with 72K miles.
The car has developed a rough idle while in gear (i.e. when stopped at a stop light) and park (i.e. after I start the car).
It's starting to get a little annoying since I'm used to a very smooth idle.
I think this issue started within the last 2-3k miles.
Plugs were allegedly changed at 30k. A full tuneup was done at that time.
Wires are still original.
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In idle and driving the car sounds rough as if a pulley was loose, after checking no pulley was loose but problem still persists. Tried turning wheel left n right n noise didn't go away or get worse its a constant noise, what it may be? Crankshaft pulley? Idler pulley?
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2007 Sonata V6. He's spent many hours and a good chunk of change at the dealership trying to get it fixed and nothing has worked yet. They honestly have no clue whats wrong which kinda scares me.
First off here is his problem. Occasionally when he starts the car it will idle very rough and struggles to accelerate to 30-40mph. When this happens he pulls over and shuts the car off for a few minutes then it will run fine again. When all of this happens there is no CEL or any light at all that flashes or comes on the dash.
Here is a list of things that have been replaced
Fuel pump
Throttle position sensor
Crank sensor
Plugs, wires and coil pack
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I have 114,00 miles on my car. Plugs changed and decarbonization done at 99,000 as well as ECM reprogram or update ($99). Anyway, when my car sits overnight and starts it is getting a rough high idle until I feather the pedal or give it a minute or 2 and it is fine. It is warm now in the 70's and this just started. I had it to the dealer for oil change and they looked at it. There are no codes, they recommended changing the plugs and doing a decarb again. So I told them if I need plugs there is something wrong, Iridium OEM were installed.
Anyway, they suggested changing the throttle body since it has new sensors. I have have the TPS replaced before when engine was surging. They told me there are 2 sensors and one could be bad in throttle body. I don't get it, I use Hyundai air filter now and change every 15,000 miles and get oil changes regularly and they use Quaker State Synthetic blend. I am wondering if maybe I have a faulty PCV? I don't think that has been changed. Don't even know what the interval is. Previously I was told there was none, but I disagree.
What would cause me to get carbon build up like they keep telling me? I don't want trial and error and throw parts and money at it since there are no codes. I was going to drive it til it throws a code. I do highway driving in suburban area, mostly 65 mph. The car runs good, still the intermittent hard downshift when slowing down but nothing like before the tranny was replaced.
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2006 Sonata V6 with 98K miles. The car has developed a rough idle, sputter/lurch while in gear, but not park or neutral. No CEL/codes. Have already replaced the spark plugs (OE), throttle body/FI cleaned, MAF cleaned, new air filter, coil packs OK... Mechanic said no vac leaks, FI spray pattern good, good fuel pressure, etc. Vibration dampener looks ok, no separation or wobble. Another post mentioned a power steering pressure sensor, which I will have checked, but the mechanic is at a loss.
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I've got a troublesome misfire in a 2007 Sonata V6, 70k miles, which I have been trying and failing to track down for a long time.
More than a year ago, the owner of the car complained of rough idle. When this was first mentioned, I looked at the car, she and I talked, and I concluded that she hadn't changed the oil in some 20k miles. ...... Nothing else seemed wrong. I changed the oil, thinking that what she needed was an oil change.
Some time later, I was in the car myself and all of a sudden felt a strong bucking. Must've been a misfire. I recommended taking it to the Hyundai dealer, thinking the so-called 100k mile powertrain warranty would cover whatever it was (it didn't but whatever).
We drove it to the dealer. The dealer firstly informed us that the CEL had burned out, so we had missed some codes. The dealer further us the car needed new plugs and replacement of both upstream O2 sensors. Here was what the mechanic wrote:
"BETWEEN 35-40 PUT CRUISE ON AND WILL FEEL. CHECK AND ADVISE COMES AND GOES. MULTIPLE CODES STORED IN SYSTEM. ... P0300 RANDOM MISFIRE (ACTIVE), P0140 O2 SENSOR CIRCUIT NO ACTIVITY, P0154 O2 BS S1 NO ACTIVITY. WATCHED O2 VALUES AND FOUND ERRATIC READINGS. FOUND TSB 10-FL-012 SUGGESTING REPLACEMENT OF BOTH UPSTREAM O2 SENSORS. RECOMMEND COMPLETE SYSTEM TUNE UP FOR RANDOM MISFIRE. HOWEVER MISFIRE COULD BE RELATED TO O2 ACTIVITY.
So the owner went to a different mechanic and had the plugs, upstream O2 sensors, and one of the downstream sensors replaced. All OEM, I believe. ($$$!) (O2 sensor parts 39210-3C100, -3C200, and -3C400) Dunno why the downstream one was replaced, not my doing.
Following this, there was no real improvement. No codes either. The problem comes and goes, so maybe I thought it was fixed, but it has come back. Sometimes, it can be felt just slightly when the car starts cold. Other times, it can be felt just barely when driving at a consistent speed. Sometimes, the problem becomes really bad and jerks the car around. Other times, nothing.
What to check next? Coil packs? Intake manifold gasket? She never gets "top tier gasoline," but I would be skeptical that that's the problem. These are the top three suggestions I've heard.
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