Yesterday i noticed that the right rear brake light and high mounted brake light does not work when i press brake only the left one work, although the right tail light work well when parking light is turned on. Is it a matter of fuse or wiring cut.
View 6 RepliesMy high mounted rear stop light and driver side real stop/tail light seems to be burned out. After checking manual, I found nothing mentioned about replacing 'high mounted rear stop light' at all. It's weird enough. From hmaservice.com, I found how to replace bulb, but, still could not find how to open that light box or package. And referring to 2005 model of Sonata, it says there are two nuts to be unscrew to open light box. However, I'm trying to find those nuts in my 06 Sonata.
View 89 RepliesOn my '06 Sonata GL the third center brake light does not work all the time. I say all the time because it has a mind of its own; it works when it wants to. I have changed the bulb and it was working perfectly fine for months and months until recently when it suddenly began to act up.
View 8 RepliesAfter losing 4 bulbs trying to put the new light in from the bottom on my 07 Sonata's high brake light, I finally figured out, that if you take a dremel or other small cutting tool and cut of the tab on the bulb socket, the whole assembly will slide back into place from the top. Cut the tab even with the holes where the two wires go into the socket, and you should have no problems.
View 23 RepliesI have changed the brake light in the rear deck 3 times in the last 2 months. Why they keep burning out?
View 7 RepliesI need locating the locking clips that hold the high mounted stop light assembly in place. Are there any diagrams?
View 6 RepliesI drive almost all the time in stop and go traffic and my knee hurts because the brake pedal is too high. My wife also noticed that the brake pedal is unusually high. Is there any adjustment I can make to lower the brake pedal?
View 2 Replies2010 F-250 14,000 miles, gas engine with Knapheide utility bed. Tilt wheel has been kept in the up position from day 1.
The problem:
No rear brake lights.
No high mount brake light.
No rear turn signals.
No rear hazard flashing lights.
All trailer lights work.
All other truck lights work.
Things checked: Fuses all OK. Visual inspection of multi-function switch. Looks clean. Brake switch at brake pedal has power on one wire. Jumpered the other wire-no brake lights.
I need to haul my trailer and am nervous when I see a Savannah, GA metro police car.
I am now having my first issue with my car in that the rear drivers side door lock won't always work.
After using the search function, it seems replacing the door lock actuator/solenoid solves this problem, but I could only find a diagram showing how to get at it on the drivers front door, not a rear door.
Looking for a diagram on how to do this, or info on it?
I am trying to diagnosis a new issue on my 2006 V6 Sonata . I plugged in my code scanner which gave back MIL Status as ON, but there was no Check Engine - Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) lit up on the instrument cluster. It also showed that the EVAP, CAT and O2S was "Not Ready". When I checked the codes, I had P0031, P0037, P0051 and P0057, all of which are tied to Low Heater Circuits in the O2 sensors. When I checked the cables under the hood, the lower O2 sensor cable closest to the firewall was stuck onto exhaust pipe. It easily pulled free but I tried clearing the codes but the same 4 codes remained. I checked the resistance across the heater control and ground circuit, all 4 O2 sensors were around 10 ohms.
There seems to be several issues:
1) Why doesn't the instrument cluster register the MIL status as ON and display this Check Engine Light?
2) Why are the EVAP, CAT and O2 "Not Ready", I've heard that these are sometimes tied to disconnecting the battery. I've put almost 3K miles on the vehicle since the battery change.
3) OBD Codes P0031, P0037, P0051, P0057, I would expect all O2 sensors to fail at once, is there a fuse or other control that needs to be replaced or reset?
I am trying to get everything ready for emissions testing on this recently purchased 06 Sonata and I am thinking these issues will cause it to fail.
I bought a 2006 Sonata V6 3.3L with 137k on it about a month ago. Engine and Trans is great, but I noticed an issue that developed within the past week and a half or so.
I am one to always engage the parking brake when parked, to relieve pressure on the parking paw in the transmission. After about a week of heavy use of the parking brake, I began to hear a slight 'clunk, clunk, clunk' coming from the rear passenger wheel (it actually sounded like something was loose in the trunk, but ruled it out). The 'clunk' sound at first only happened going over rough or bumpy roads, but within the past week or so it's gotten louder and more consistent. It now 'clunks' regardless of speed or road surface.
I used the parking break today for the first time while the car was in motion, and when pulled it sqreached very loud, didn't really stop the car, but the 'clunk' became very loud while the break was pulled - shockingly loud, actually.
A couple of days ago I took the rear passenger tire off while jacked up, and spun the wheel. With neither the parking or regular breaks engaged, the wheel made a 'clunk' sound very similar to that it makes on the road. Took of the Tire/Rim and spun the Rotor, to hear the same sound. Attempted to wiggle the Rotor and found no play at all.
At first, the clunk went away when you pressed the floor board brake pedal, even just a slight bit stopped the noise. Now it doesn't seem to stop it any longer.
My main idea is that the parking brake in the Rotor is the culprit, given that the issues didn't arise until I started using the parking brake - and the fact that brake appears to not work very well. However, my dad tells me he thinks it's a wheel bearing. I don't think it is - as its not making any metal on metal sounds, nor is it very difficult to rotate the Rotor while jacked up.
I was attempting to change my trunk light to LED but when I finally finished it didn't work! I tried to re-open the trunk with my remote and that didn't work. I had to start the engine and open the trunk using the switch on the door.
When I started the car I saw the clock was not working as was the dome light.
I probably should have unhitched the (-) battery cable, but was too lazy.
I started going through the fusebox under the hood and now I'm going through the fusebox just inside the door.
Ok today I just drove from my house to my parents to get an electrical panel and it drove fine. It is about 17 miles of 55mph country winding highway. I arrive there and I smell the all too familiar hot brakes smell. I get out and see a little smoke coming from the right rear brakes. I know it must be either a locking up caliper or a bad caliper bracket as these are the Akebono brakes. What are your recommendations for replacement parts?
I plan to replace the drivers side rotor as more than likely it is now warped. I plan to change pads on both sides and the drivers side rear caliper. Is there a special procedure for a vehicle with anti-lock brakes to properly bleed them? I have a caliper spreader will I screw up the accumulator for the ABS if I just spread the old caliper for removal?
I bought a 2006 Sonata V6 3.3L with 137k on it about a month ago. Engine and Trans is great, but I noticed an issue that developed within the past week and a half or so.
I am one to always engage the parking brake when parked, to relieve pressure on the parking paw in the transmission. After about a week of heavy use of the parking brake, I began to hear a slight 'clunk, clunk, clunk' coming from the rear passenger wheel (it actually sounded like something was loose in the trunk, but ruled it out). The 'clunk' sound at first only happened going over rough or bumpy roads, but within the past week or so it's gotten louder and more consistent. It now 'clunks' regardless of speed or road surface.
I used the parking break today for the first time while the car was in motion, and when pulled it sqreached very loud, didn't really stop the car, but the 'clunk' became very loud while the break was pulled - shockingly loud, actually.
A couple of days ago I took the rear passenger tire off while jacked up, and spun the wheel. With neither the parking or regular breaks engaged, the wheel made a 'clunk' sound very similar to that it makes on the road. Took of the Tire/Rim and spun the Rotor, to hear the same sound. Attempted to wiggle the Rotor and found no play at all.
At first, the clunk went away when you pressed the floor board brake pedal, even just a slight bit stopped the noise. Now it doesn't seem to stop it any longer.
My main idea is that the parking brake in the Rotor is the culprit, given that the issues didn't arise until I started using the parking brake - and the fact that brake appears to not work very well. However, my dad tells me he thinks it's a wheel bearing. I don't think it is - as its not making any metal on metal sounds, nor is it very difficult to rotate the Rotor while jacked up.
My wife's 2003 sportrac has developed a problem. The left rear turn signal brake light will not work. The tail light does. When you turn on the left turn signal the front bulb and the dash light flashes real fast. I have changed both, the front and rear bulbs with no luck. I've read on here about the tilt steering column deal. I have moved the steering column while operating the turn signal with no change.
View 4 RepliesMy sons 2006 F350 brake lights and rear turn signals quit working. When the headlights are on, all the lights operate but the rear turn signals and brake lights do not nor do the emergency flashers. The front signals work but flash very rapidly. Although I'm not an auto electrician, I'm fairly mechanically inclined but the fact that the front signals work, the rear don't and all lights work as lights, just not as turn signals or brake lights.
View 4 RepliesHaving issues with moisture, or water, in the high brake light, in the spoiler? It appears to be an LED type light. It is still working but, I'm afraid it may short out eventually. It also appears to be fragile! Its an '08 Accent.
View 7 RepliesI just discovered my cruise won't "SET" (light goes out after 1/2 second) anymore after having the brake light switch done yesterday.
View 2 RepliesI am the owner of a 2009 Accent L (Canadian model) sedan. I have had this car from brand new and I have had two warranty issues with this car in the last 6 months. First at approx.36000 miles (60000Km) the stop light switch started sticking, so the brake lights wouldn't work properly. The second issue was the turn signal/ headlight combo switch malfunctioned and started to smoke. The dealer replaced these under warranty after some hassles.
View 1 RepliesI have an 06 sonata and have no brake lights and the constant ESC off light staying on. After reading countless threads on here I see that the brake light switch was recalled on these and this is extremely common problem with this year and model. I went to my local shop bought a brand new switch, installed it properly and still the lights won't come on. I changed the fuses as well. Emergency lights, and the tail lights when the headlights are on come on but no brake lights. My next guess is the bulbs? they look ok. But I had a dodge caravan where both bulbs went out before at the same time so is that a possibility with this?
View 3 RepliesESC Off & Brake Light keep appearing intermittently. When I turn the car off and then back on, they go off. This has happened about 5 or 6 times in the last week.
I want to take it to the dealer but I just know I'll get a, "cannot duplicate problem" from them because it doesn't happen all the time. I'm going on a trip in two weeks and I don't want to run into problems on the road.