Sonata NF (2006-10) :: Replaced OCV And Still Getting CEL With Code P0011
Sep 9, 2014
I have a 2007 GLS. Within the past year I had about 4 or 5 difficult starts. Just recently I got a CEL with cod P0011. I replaced the OCV as that is the usual culprit. Within 6 miles of clearing the CEL, I am still getting the same CEL. I am wondering if the problem is either the wiring harness or the Camshaft Position Sensor.
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I have a 2006 Sonata with an intermittent check engine light. The light will be on for a few days then goes out for a day or two. This pattern has been going on for about 3 months now. A scan tool was used and showed the code P0011. I know this code has to do with the camshaft timing. My question is should the light be going out on its own if there was a problem with the camshaft timing? Does the engine correct itself and then experience the problem again. Is it normal for check engine lights to go on and off with out being manually reset? Could this be a faulty sensor or loose wire causing the light to go on and off? The car has about 75,000 miles, mostly Hwy, and is driven just about everyday.
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I have already concluded I need to replace my OCV on my 2007 2.4L GLS Sonata.
I have also been starting to hear a clicking noise associated with reducing throttle when in the 2500-3100 rpm range. It seems to only make this quiet clicking noise when the throttle is reducing and within the RPM range from above.
I am just wondering if this may be associated with the OCV needing to be replaced. I suppose I will find out for sure when I do finally get around to replacing the OCV sometime this month.
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My check engine light came on the other day, and I went to Autozone to have the code read. Of course, that indicated the camshaft position sensor was detecting a fault. I read through all the posts relating to the fault, headed up to my local Hyundai dealer, and picked up the oil flow control valve for about $50 plus tax. While I was there, I figured I might as well have them do an oil change, since it was way past due. No point in putting in a new part with dirty oil..right? They did the oil change, washed the car and I was ready to roll. My plan was to replace the part myself, but magically, the check engine light has not come back on since.
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I recently bought a 08 Sonata V6, with 94K mileage. The oil pressure light comes on when the engine is idle (around 700-800 rpm). The seller told me that this problem started a few months ago, but the car has not been used much since then. He also said that he has changed the oil after that, but the problem still persists.
The engine light has shown up more recently, like in a week or two. I took the car to a mechanic and he could not guess what the problem might be. But he gave me the error codes: P0011, and P0051. There are no other obvious symptoms (e.g. oil leakage, low oil level, unusual sound from the engine).
I could not find any thread regarding both of these issues (Oil Pressure, and the error codes) together. Any connection between these two?
So far, I have realized that the oil pressure can be due to a bad sensor, and P0011 has something to do with CVVT, and Oil Control Valve (OCV). But I would like to make sure I don't just waste money by replacing the sensor and OCV.
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My check engine light comes and goes on as it pleases. When I check the code it says P0011 for cam timing too advanced. That said, I have 0 symptoms for this code, my car runs great, average 30mpg, smooth idle and shifting. My inspection is coming up and I cant have this light on when I take it in. What to do to diagnose why its on, or how to replace the appropriate part. A ball park price is great too.
Vehicle has 134K miles and is well maintained.
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Show 2 error P0011 and P0014.
Sonata YF 2010 2.0 80.000kms ....
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In the last four months, I have been getting intermittent error code P0011 on my 2008 prius. I notice that it comes usually when I am going up/down a major hill or going really fast.
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Check engine light and P0010 code in my Gen III 2010 Prius...
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I just replaced the original serpentine belt at 95k miles (more preventative than anything) and now it's squeaking. Does this mean I have to replace the tensioner?
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So just to sum it up. Past few days I had been hearing a grinding/clicking noise from my left front tire. I had an accident on that side a few months back. Went to the mechanic and they said it is most probably the wheel bearing and possible the hub also.
They took it apart and changed the wheel bearing. After two days of getting the wheel bearing changed the noise is back. It is not nearly as loud but it is definitely there.
What it could be? Could it be the hub itself? I have a 07 Sonata with 100k+ miles on it
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My engine started overheating, and because I was stuck on a bridge during rush hour (George Washington Bridge in NYC), I couldn't get stop the car. I drove it for approximately 30 min (slow crawl), and this happened: [URL] .....
Yes, I know how stupid it is, but there was not even a shoulder to pull over to the side. The only good thing is that this happened pretty much soon as Igot off the bridge, and not on the bridge.
Hose by the radiator cap (is that the overflow hose?) popped out and spewed steam for good 5 minutes. The car did not start at this point. I left the car by the gas station after the bridge, and came back later on in the night. It started and I was able to drive it home (about 10 min away) at crawl speed without it reaching the red zone.
Today, I just did the oil change, topped off on the coolant, and also replaced the thermostat. But the engine still overheats (to the red). The upper radiator hose is burning hot and the bottom radiator hose is not. Also, the fan is working, but it blows out pretty hot air.
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I need to replace my girlfriend's starter on her 2006 Sonata 3.3 V6. Her car is having the intermittent starting thing that i noticed some others are. We've already replaced the battery and the starter relay. The relay worked for a while but the car is back to having issues intermittently again. I figured I'd replace the starter now(with a new starter solenoid on it). Also, while I'm doing this I'll check for any loose or rusty grounds.
So, I've peeked under the hood and tried to follow the battery cables to find the starter but I haven't been able to find it. Is it under something? Do I need to remove the battery?
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I now have a p0011 code on my 2001 passat 1.8t aug. this is a thinker because right before the test drive around the block i did the following
- coolant flush
-replaced the fuel filter
-cleaned the knn air filter
-rotated the tires
-oil change with new castrol 5w-40 syn. and 1/2 a bottle of lucas syn oil stabilizer.
With a few phone calls a possible cause is the timing chain skipped a tooth cause of the lucas being to thick, other cause could be the tensioner finally went out?
Right know the car car has a rough idle and seems to be finding idle , and a noise from the engine around 4000 rpm.
I am waiting for the engine to cool off before i open her up to check timing.. if the chain is off a a tooth what could be the cause?
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Ok not that last part, but I'm working on grandma's 08 Taurus V6, light blue. The first symptom was the check engine light, flagging P0011 camshaft adv timing bank 1. When I popped the hood there was a bad rattling/ticking noise from the valve covers. Upon checking the oil, I found coolant in it and the coolant reservoir empty. I figured it would be the head gasket so I topped off the coolant and started the car. No bubbles from the reservoir and compression check was good.
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I have a 2007 Yaris, 180,000 miles, The check engine light comes on. With a P0011 code. I know that that could mean either:
blocked oil passage
Mechanical timing fault
Camshaft position a timing over advance
Failed OCV
Or VVT controller assembly fault
Since it's been really cold out I figured maybe it was a blocked oil passage, but after an oil change and quick check - I no longer think that's the problem.
The car runs great and it doesn't seem anything is wrong at all ...
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2005 GTI 1.8t Engine ... I changed my timing belt water pump and tensioner yesterday and today I am receiving an engine code: P0011 Intake (A) Camshaft Position Timing - Over Advanced (Bank 1) My friend timed the engine and knew that is was 1 tooth advanced. He told me that is was going to be OK because 1.8t's have a 1 tooth tolerance. I would have redone it but I did not know how. What to do in this situation? Do I need to re time the engine?
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[URL] ..... I had the P0430 code come up in my 06 GS300 AWD so i changed both passenger side 02 sensors. i followed the above instructions on changing the pre-cat sensor, changed my 02 sensor plugged everything back up and the P/S light came on and i lost power steering. I unplugged and checked everything at least 10 times until i finally gave up and gave it to lexus today. been about a week though driving without power steering. I know I did everything right and plugged everything snug. Did my P/S just decide to die?
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I have a 07 Sonata V6 that misses only when warmed up, runs fine when cold. code p0301 for cylinder one misfire, I have replaced the plug, coil and injector for cylinder one and still the same. idles and runs perfect when cold, dead miss on number one cylinder when warmed up.
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2006 F350 5.4L 5R110W
I've had the TCC solenoid replaced. Not long after, it locked up again. I had the whole solenoid body (including harness & sensors) replaced .....continues to run hot and eventually lock up. IIRC, it gives code P0743
Transmission shop seems to think it's an electrical issue outside the transmission and thus not something they can deal with.
I took it to a dealership and they said that if it was an electrical issue outside the transmission, it would be throwing codes every time I start it up....which it isn't. They would start be replacing the solenoid (and possibly the whole body) with 'brand new' parts.
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The check engine light on my 2006 Toyota Camry LE with 95,300 miles came up. The codes that came up on my diagnostic tool were p0011, p0101, and p0113. The code meanings are as follows:
p0011: refers to the VVT (variable valve timing) or VCT (variable camshaft timing) components and the car's power control module
p0101: problem with the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor or circuit
p0113: possibly issues with the Intake Air Temperature Sensor
How to solve the issue and get that annoying check engine light off?
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