I just bought a 2007 Sonata V6 (GL or GLS). Before buying the car, the last owner had the rear brakes "serviced" because the mechanic said the brakes were "sticking" - charged the old owner $300 for it. When I am on the highway and I brake, the rear brakes shudder. Do you think the shudder is because the rear brakes are still sticking, or because it needs new rotors?
View 5 RepliesI recently bought a 2007 Sonata V6, and the brakes pulsate (when applied) at highway speeds, so I am looking to replace the front rotors & pads. I have been told that the OEM rotors/pads aren't great & that as a result many owners have a brake pulsating/vibration issue.
View 9 RepliesSo my 07 with 125k miles has had new rotors for about 50k miles or so, but for a while now when the brakes get hot it gets a violent shudder on braking at highway speeds....the odd part to me is nothing at lower speeds, and not always at higher speeds....do I just have warped rotors again? The rest of the front end I good and tight....
View 9 RepliesSo Ive got slotted rotors with Hawk pads up front. I put them on a while back, pads are probably getting to the end of their life. Rear brakes and rotors were done by the dealer recently. X code springs up front, stock springs with RAS in the rear.
Under quick, semi-hard braking I get some heavy shudder, not sure if its from the from or the rear. I had been thinking it was probably the brakes themselves, and planned on addressing the fronts soon. But then I read something around here about axle wrap under braking, and am now wondering if that's the cause. I am pretty sure that big rubber cone on my rear springs is gone, and I read that that is what prevents axle wrap.
Alright so my 06 is at about 102,xxx right now and has given me no major issues (knock on wood) besides this stupid noise that I cant pin point to fix. So far I've narrowed it down to this, sounds like its coming from the right rear and usually only happens when I am slowing down and or braking. Ive also taken note that it only happens when its really hot outside , all signs have been pointing to the rotors and brakes but i need some thoughts/opinions on what else it could be before i shell out almost $200 to get my brakes fixed. Here are some more details about the car
Rear pads replaced sometime last year they still have meat on them but i did not replace rotors nor did i get them turned.
I am sure that the noise is coming from the rear, ive been half way in the trunk while my buddy drove and i hear it coming from right rear.
Shocks have been replaced (noise was occurring before replacing them)
Nothing seems loose everything seems to be tightened down right.
Tires are brand new (noise was there before getting tires and after)
Mufflers are secured normal wiggle mounts look good.
Emergency Shoes have never been replaced but look ok.
Wheel hub looked great when i took it apart (Looks new doubt its that)
It happens when I am braking from 35mph below or sometimes 0 to 35 40mph rolling no braking then it goes away.
When accelerating and/or braking, a thumping or knocking noise comes from the rear of the car. I do not believe it's my shocks, as there is no noise when going over bumps, only accelerating and stopping. What may be the cause? Control arms maybe?
View 7 RepliesMy 2006 Sonata has an on again/off again problem with the left rear brakes getting very hot... Took it to my mechanic and of course the problem never manifested itself there and all checked out fine... Got to work last night and I could smell it as soon as I stepped out of the car and and the drum is glowing cherry red...
View 2 RepliesWhat would cause the rear drum brakes to lock up upon hard braking? I have replaced the wheel cylinders, installed new spring kit, and adjusters.
View 9 RepliesI heard a grinding noise from one of my rear wheels. After investigating, I saw that the OUTER pad was worn down all the way. I had only driven 15K and it had not been very long so I did not expect this. I also didn't hear the warning tabs as the they are on the inner pad and it had not worn down enough. I checked the caliper slide bolts and they were gliding freely. I checked under the boots and there was still grease in there.
My old pads had only been worn to 30%-50% so I installed those on for now. When I compressed the piston, I had a hard time getting it started and had to apply a bit of force with the C-clamp, but then it compressed without the need for much force. When I put the pads in, it was pretty hard to get them into the clips. the inner one required me to press pretty hard with my hand, the outer one was so tight, I had to use the c clamp to get it all the way up to the rotor.
I'm wondering what the cause may be. Are there some typical causes for why the outer pad may wear faster? I would think if the caliper bolts were stuck, that would do it, but they move freely? could it just be that the pad is too tight on the slider? How might I fix that? I tried filing them down a little but that obviously wasn't enough.
Also, now the pads on the right and left are uneven and the rotor on the right isnt smooth anymore. Should I go ahead and change out the pads and that rotor? Does uneven pads or a rough rotor affect the effectiveness of the brakes significantly? They are the rear brakes so I would think there is less of an impact. I know that uneven pads and a rough rotor will cause them to wear faster, but if I need to replace them anyways, I might as well wait til they wear down more.
I have an '04 EX with 6.0. When braking at highway speeds the rear end shudders until I get the truck slowed down some. Around town speeds of 45 or less the problem is almost non-existent. It almost seems to be hydraulic instead of pads/rotor issue. Wouldn't a warped rotor show up at slower speeds as well? I have some good mechanics around, but have never found a great brake shop that I can trust. Go in needing pads and they try and upsell saying this or that is going out.
View 9 Replies2006 Sonata 3.3 liter engine with 123K miles. While driving between 30-40 mph, when I "feather" the gas pedal the car will shudder. It does not happen every time but it usually happens a couple times when it does. I see no change in rpm, transmission fluid is at a good level.
View 2 RepliesBefore I get started... My truck is a 2006 F-250 Super Duty XLT 6-speed 4x4 with a Limited Slip.
I just got finished with a big job on my truck. New pads all the way around, turned rotors, new emergency brake shoes, hardware, and backing plate as well as replaced the rear wheel bearings both inner and outer as well as the axle o-ring and inner seal. Also, took off the rear pumpkin cover painted it and put fresh fluid in, went with Mobil 1 75W140 LS.
Took it for a drive and the brakes work great. Followed the directions for breaking in the emergency brake which worked fine.
Now the problem is I'm getting rattling from possibly all of the wheels. Definitely from the front driver and at least one of the rear wheels. It was so dark I didn't get a chance to look at it I just pulled it back in driveway.
I'll start looking at things tomorrow but, any common mistakes or things I should check first?
So I recently took over my wife's 06 GLS 3.3 and gave up my 3.5L Saturn Vue Redline - Any ways the sonata has 60k miles on it and vibrates on the highway around 65-70 mph. Are there any other things I should be looking on with this car?
View 6 RepliesI get a pop or a clunk from the front drivers side when I brake. It used to happen less often but I took it to the dealer to fix and they lubricated the caliper pins and now it happens frequently. I've read that the Sonata has some issues with the calipers. I would like to repair it and lubing the calipers made it worse.
View 4 RepliesI have an '08 GLS and I've been hearing a "pop" noise coming from the rear passenger wheel well when I am braking. It only happens once per braking episode and usually if I am applying medium brake pressure, i.e. slowing from >25 mph. What this might be and is it normal?
View 11 RepliesNoticing excessive vibration when braking after 50-60 mph speeds.
View 4 RepliesMy vehicle works absolutely beautifully except between 75 and 105 km/hr where I experience sputtering. This does not happen under load but just when I am maintaining a constant speed. It feels like misfires but I don't get a check engine light when it occurs. Misfires would definitely trigger the check engine light. I've tried the obvious solutions:
Used fuel system cleaner in case I got a bad tank of gas
Used fuel additive to eliminate any water in the tank
Changed the oil and filter (it was due anyway)
Replaced the air filter (it was also due)
Cleaned the MAF Sensor
Replaced the spark plugs
None of this has made any appreciable difference in the performance of the vehicle. The sputtering persists.
The car does not have traditional spark plug wires. Instead it has ignition coils which run about $140 each from the dealership. I may eventually have to change one or more coils but I'll try cheaper solutions first.
My next step is to replace the crankshaft position sensor. You may have noticed that I am problem solving starting with the least expensive solution and progressing to more expensive repairs.
2006 Sonata GLS 3.3L v6 ... Vehicle has 192,000 miles and generally runs well but has started stalling out on the highway. Seems like it stalls more when turning on an exit ramp or after going over a rough spot or pothole on the road but not always. Not sure if anything in particular leads up to it. The car stalls, the power steering and brakes become unresponsive, all the dashboard lights come on, and I have to pull over and stop completely to try restarting. Usually starts right back up but sometimes it takes several tries. Took it to AAA auto care but since they couldn't recreate the problem, they weren't able to identify the issue. They did say that their diagnostic equipment was unable to access/communicate with the on-board computer for the engine if that makes any sense.
View 2 RepliesMy 06 sonata's steering wheel recently started shaking when I am braking from speeds of 80+ also a little when going down really steep hills. This happened once before when I got new front tires because the tire shop didn't balance the tires correctly. I know it could also mean warped rotors but in my experience rotors only become warped when you drive them with really low pads. Btw the car has 46k miles on it, and it is a 3.3 liter v6 gls.
View 9 RepliesI just did the brakes on all four wheels of my 06. I replaced the rotors and pads all the way around with Powerstop parts. I got them from RockAuto.COM as a complete set. The rotors were made in China generic looking things and the pads were Powerstop Evolution Ceramic Disc Brake pads.
Anyhow, I drove around to bed the brakes after getting them installed and now the passenger front tire as a small "rotational squeal" when you are lightly braking.
Oh, one more thing, I'll admit this up front. I did not put any grease on the back of the pads. This was mostly due to I wasn't sure exactly where or how much grease to use.
As the topic says, I get a slight stutter in the car when I'm say parking into a parking spot. As I get closer to 0 mph i feel the car kinda jerk a little bit.
It's done this since we bought it off a used car lot, and I figured it was the tranny fluid being burned or low. I did a drain/fill twice over the last weekend, and noticed while it has worked forthe issue, it's not fully rectified.
I also notice that 60-80% of the time when LIGHTLY accelerating, going from 1st to 2nd is kinda rough. If i floor it, it's actually pretty smooth.
It doesn't feel like anything "BAD" is happening - no grinding, doesn't feel like slippage...