Sonata NF (2006-10) :: Power Loss While Acceleration
Oct 19, 2014
I was cruising on the highway and tried to accelerate and no more power. Could feel engine losing power. After I shutdown the car and start again, car was fine.
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Oct 19, 2014
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Chrysler - Towncountry :: 2006 - Hard Starts And Loss Of Power On Acceleration
I have a 2006 town and country with a 3.3 and 220,000 miles.
Last week I was having some hard starts and loss of power on acceleration. My check engine light flashed during one episode so I had autozone check the code and it showed a misfire. I changed out my plugs and wires and that solved my issue. It started and ran like new.
Yesterday, I was running errands and my charging light came on. I was about ten miles from home and I decided to go for it. It was night so the headlights were on. Along the way, everything started to dim. Headlights, dash lights, airbag indicator came on and then the van just died. I walked the final mile and we towed it home.
The alternator and battery were both replaced last year in November making them both one year old. AC Delco battery 660 cca and I had a very reputable alternator shop rebuild the alternator.
So before I towed the van home, I hooked up some heavy duty jumper cables from a running chevy venture and let it charge 15 minutes. After the 15 minutes it was just clicks in rapid succession.
I hooked it up to a trickle charger overnight, 12v 2 amp setting. This morning, the van started, idled fine for about five seconds and then started trying to cut out. I kept it running by giving it gas but after about twenty seconds it stalled. I tried to restart and nothing but the rapid clicks. Three more hours on the trickle charger and the same exact thing happened. It started, began to stall, quit and then wouldn't restart.
I noticed today that the power steering reservoir was leaking a decent amount of fluid down onto everything around it including the coil pack. I replaced this today and used brake cleaner to clean all the surrounding components.
After doing some internet sleuthing, I found a thread with the same problem. For this guy, he had a disconnected ground from the negative battery terminal. I chased mine down (G101) disconnected and wire brushed it all clean. Put it all back together and still the same problem.
Here is what I have discovered:
Trying to jump it from another vehicle only results in the clicks. This is true whether the jumper cables on the dead battery are on both terminals or the negative is grounded on the motor. If the battery were the problem, I should be able to jump through it. If the alternator were the problem, I should be able to start with a jump.
After charging the battery, it will start once but then die soon after. Battery with the key off will read just under 12 volts (11.9, 11.6). With the key on, it will drop to the 8's (8.6, etc.) I have not yet had the battery or alternator bench tested. I plan to start with the battery in the morning.
It seems to me that the alternator wasn't charging the battery or it wouldn't have just killed the battery as those accessories should be powered by the alternator. It shouldn't be a starter issue since it will start after being on the trickle charger.
Lexus GS 2006-11 :: 2008 GS460 - Acceleration Power Loss / RPM Meter Jerks A Little
2008 GS460. 100K miles
I have noticed when I accelerate on a entrance ramp to the highway I notice the RPM meter jerks a little like it's trying to suck for gas or something else. I can feel it in the car too. This is the only time I have noticed this. I have replaced the spark plugs about 5K miles ago.
I did bring it into the dealership a few months ago to get the fuel pump replaced as I noticed a hissing noise under the drivers side read door. They said fuel pumps rarely go bad on the Lexus. The mechanic did some fuel pressure tests and said everything looks good. He also said noise is the return line back to the pump.
Sonata NF (2006-10) :: Loss Of Power / Rev Up When Pushed The Gas
well I don't exactly know if that's what I should call it... I was driving last night around 10 and I pushed the gas down 3/4 of the way or so to pass around this car but instead of downshifting and accelerating, it just revved up all the way, i kept hitting the gas and it was like revving it in neutral then it kicked back into gear... should i be concerned? It was fine the rest of the night but I wasn't driving it hard.
View 1 RepliesSonata NF (2006-10) :: Loss Of Power - Car Barely Goes
What's going on with my sonata. Its an 06 GLS 4 cylinder, 168k miles. I've actually had the problem before, and it lasted maybe about a week or two before the car went back to normal by itself. But a couple days ago it has returned. The car barely goes! All it wants to do is rev and not go. Coming from a complete stop is the worse, as it takes me forever to get up there in speed. I already feel like a danger on the road by sometimes not being able to keep up with traffic. Once I get up there in speed I'm able to keep it at that. I thought it was maybe the spark plugs last time, so I changed them, but that didn't seem to be it. I know the car has electrical issues, now I'm just thinking its that since its done it before and went back to normal. I took a video to get a better idea of what its like. [URL] ....
View 6 RepliesSonata NF (2006-10) :: 2007 - Occasional Power Steering Loss
My daughter's 2007 Sonata 4 cyl (88k miles) has an occasional power steering loss. It has only been noticed right after slowing down from highway speed. Total loss for a few seconds then comes back. No dash lights or noises, just steers like an old classic without power steering - then can.
This is kind or a repeat post from another individual but he had a V6.
SBR711 recommended replacing the Harmonic balancer and I am inclined to do so but parts guy at Hyundai said that typically is not an issue in the 4 cyl model. So he does not keep item on hand.
Fluid is fine, clean and proper level. No screeching etc..
Sonata NF (2006-10) :: Occasional Loss Of Power Steering While Driving
I've got about 80K miles on my '06 Sonata and the weather conditions were on the very wet side.
At first I thought I heard a squealing sound which I just credited to either a radio or windshield wiper sound while cruising through some twisty coastal roads. The rain was coming down pretty good and a small amount of standing water of already on the road.
As I continued my drive I began to notice an occasional loss of power steering for a split second through some turns accompanied by that same belt squealing sound. At the same time the battery light also came on for a split second which indicated to me possible engine failure for a split second. Even though it was for only a split second it really freaked me out to think I could end up crossing the center lane or over into the ditch. I then slowed my pace for the rest of the trip. When I stopped for gas I popped the hood and things appeared to be normal and with plenty of power steering fluid.
Sonata NF (2006-10) :: 2007 - CEL / Sounds Like A Diesel And Loss Of Power
I have a 2007 Sonata GL. So tonight after work when getting into car to go home I noticed my CEL came on, also as I was driving at low speeds/rpm I noticed the car really sounded like it has a diesel engine in it. At higher speeds on the highway I noticed it has some loss of power and the diesel sound went away. CEL stayed on.
The CEL light I am pretty sure is the OCV which I havent replaced yet. So my question is: Can the OCV cause the car to sound like a diesel and have loss of power is that caused by something else?
Sonata NF (2006-10) :: Idling And Power Loss - RPMs Will Drop Below 500 And Then Spike Back Up
So over the last few months I have been having more and more idling and power loss issues with my 2006 V6. When idling she intermittently will try to stall and the rpms will drop below 500 and then spike back up. A large percentage of the time I hear a loud whining sound while driving down the road and I notice that turning off the air conditioner will remove the sound at times.
***what I have done so far**
Idler Pulley
Belt tensioner
sepentine belt
cleaned MAF
Cleaned Throttle body
Throttle Position Sensor
Had car reprogrammed
So I pulled the belt off and checked all the pulleys and did notice some grittiness in the AC pulley (inner) and was wondering if this might be the issue. Attached is a video I uploaded, Video .....
Sonata NF (2006-10) :: Occasional Power Steering Loss Right After Slowing Down From Highway Speed
My 2006 Sonata V6 (88k miles) has an occasional power steering loss. It has only been noticed right after slowing down from highway speed. Total loss for a few seconds then comes back. No dash lights or noises, just cant steer - then can. Did all required maint. until 60k then just oil changes by me. Have read other forums about fluid flush, but that was for noise and I don't have any noise. This has happened with and without the Electronic Stability Control turned on. Other than that, runs great. MPG is about 25 or so (wish was 30 or so).
View 9 RepliesSonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Acceleration Loss When Going Into 2nd Gear From Stop
I noticed twice yesterday when I was accelerating from an intersection, going into 2nd gear (or 3rd depending on how short 1st is) it feels like it slips into neutral and I lose acceleration. If I take my foot off the gas and coast for a moment then re-apply acceleration, it goes on as normal without any problems.
66k miles... Owned it for 2 years and have had no other issues and have only taken it in for oil changes.
Am I correct in assuming the ATF is supposed to be good for the life of the vehicle?
Sonata NF (2006-10) :: Acceleration Power Suddenly Lost - No Engine Light
My problem is on wed I was driving my car,when I suddenly lost acceleration power, after pulling over to the side of the road I turned off the car and restarted it. However I still had the same problem with acceleration. After a while of trying to get the car to start I called a tow truck and got it towed to the dealer. When I got there they told me it was likely and issue with with a sensor on the gas pedal and the engine. At the dealership I started the car to show them the problem however the car drove perfectly and no engine light came on.
They told me it was most like what they said over the phone the sensors. However on xmas eve they called me and left a voicemail saying the rear cat had went out and taken out both rear exhaust manifolds and it would coast $3000 to fix. My question is how can all that happen without the checking engine light coming on in the car and the car showing no problems while i was driving it and how did they miss it when I had took the car in two weeks earlier for regular maintenance and to correct a drive belt issue due to it walking after I purchased a new drive belt and pulley.
Ford - Explorer :: 2006 V6 - Sputters / Loss Of Acceleration
I have a 2006 Ford Explorer 4.0 V6 that when speed up around high 4 gear entering 5 from what I can hear (it is an automatic) it sputters slightly and you can feel the acceleration kinda die or cut out for a millisecond. I connected the OBD reader and no codes. I noticed the check engine light came on and then off so I replaced the spark plugs replaced and transmission fluids, checked all fluids and leveled them then replaced the fuel filter while I was at it. Drove around for a day like normal did about 50 miles no lights came on but then today while driving in the morning when I accelerated to around 55-60 entering 5 gear the car did the sputtering and loss of acceleration again and no lights or codes.
View 2 RepliesFord 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2007 - Acceleration And Power Loss?
I own a 2000 7.3 6 speed with 175,000 miles. I just bought it less than a month ago and it is my first diesel.
About a week ago I stepped on the gas and it just had nothing. I have a TS 6 position chip that I unplugged as soon as I noticed the loss in power. When I first bought the truck it was incredibly fast and now it has nothing to it at all. I have to have it higher in the RPM's to go up hills (especially when its not warmed up). If I push the pedal down it will sound the same, boost will get to about 14 (without chip) and the truck doesn't let out any smoke but it just doesnt have any power at all. I recently towed another vehicle on a trailer and it really struggled with it, more than I thought a diesel should.
When the chip was in, the truck would let out black smoke even after I noticed the loss in power. That made me think that the engine was getting enough fuel. I thought there could be a boost leak somewhere but it still builds 14 psi. However, I do not feel boost kick in at all! When I first got the truck it would only build around 14-15 stock but it felt a hell of a lot faster and I could feel when boost would really kick in. I took off my intake and looked at the turbo and the fins are in great shape and there is little to no play.
What the problem could be? I don't have very much money to start dumping parts into the truck and Im not sure what to do. I guess my questions would be:
1) Is it a boost leak, fuel problem, or something else?
2) Could a gelled filter give me these problems?
3) What should I do and where should I start?
Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Loss Of Power During Acceleration
A little background first on my 1999 Ford F350 7.3. A few months ago I noticed i had fuel in my coolant which lead me to a cracked injector cup. I replaced all 8 cups and since I had it apart, and I bought the truck used and didn't know what had been serviced, I replaced the injector o-rings, glow plugs, valve cover gaskets, and valve cover gasket wiring harnesses. Got it all back together and had been running great.
About a week ago I was parked with engine running and the stereo suddenly turned off. A few minutes later I turned the truck off and turned it back on about 10 minutes later and it wouldn't start. Batteries appeared dead so I jumped it and made it home. Took both batteries down to AutoZone and since they were under warranty got two new ones. Figured out my alternator was bad and not charging my batteries so I ordered a new one.
Up to this point truck has been running fine. Truck had sat in my driveway for the week while waiting for the alternator. While I was out of town my father in law went to use the truck and noticed it wouldn't start. He hooked some jumper cables up and got the truck started. He said as he drove off the truck had no power and smoke was pouring out the exhaust.
I charged the batteries and installed the new alternator. Truck starts great and seems to be idling normal. When I took it for a test drive it has no power when accelerating and black smoke pours out the exhaust. The truck will barely make it up any type of incline.
I thought maybe it was the injectors not firing. Wiring harnesses are plugged in and do not appear to be damaged. I did not remove the valve covers yet as it's not difficult but time consuming and I figured since I just replaced all of it that it should be ok. I did a buzz test and all injectors passed. I get no trouble codes or check engine light.
Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2003 - Loss Of Power - No Boost On Acceleration - Vibrates?
I have an 03 6.0 Power stroke. My problem all started the other day when I started to occasionally not get any boost on acceleration and lose of power and a lot of vibration like it's about to cut out but it got worse now today I drove it about 5 miles into town when I got to town I noticed a rough idle I got gas in a gas can not in the truck. I got back in to leave and I had absolutely no power at all the truck stalled out and it was very hard to start finally got it started and it runs really rough almost like it's going to shut off.
So when I started driving I would only make it about a mile or so with out it chocking out and having to let it site for a minute or two and start it back up and go another mile or 2 and have it do the same thing all the way home all the time I have vary little boost if any at all except for when I first pull out now oil pressure is good and engine never over heated some of the codes I have is an EGR code and a contribution balance code for several cylinders I was thinking possibly a maf sensor or a clogged egr not working right.
Touareg :: Loss Of Power Upon Acceleration
Occasionally I experience a temporary loss of power when I try to accelerate. I press on the accelerator and nothing happens -- then finally catches a second or two later. Usually it happens at lower speeds as when turning a corner in town or when climbing a hill.
View 2 RepliesPassat (B5) :: Loss Of Power / Hesitation During Acceleration
My 2001 VW Passat 1.8T manual transmission is experiencing loss of power/hesitation during acceleration. Occasionally the check engine light will blink for about 10 seconds during this time. My valve cover gasket blew about 7 months ago. I had it replaced along with 2 ignition coils. Since then I have had replaced the other 2 coils and spark plugs because of this recurring problem. I have also replace the mass airflow sensor for the second time. The diagnostic check continually shows misfires in different cylinders for which I again tried replacing the coils. I have also received the codes for "fuel mixture too lean" as well as for too rich. What could be causing this?
View 4 Replies2000 GMC Jimmy - Loss Of Power / Hard Acceleration
I have a 2000 gmc jimmy 300.000 km 4.3 vortec .starts ok, even when cold idle smooth but when I accelerate past 2000 rpm it has a complete loss of power. I bought a fuel pressure tester key on 2 seconds 60 psi when I start the vehicle and running 55 psi. I took it on a road test it stays at 55 psi and has a hard acceleration and will go to 60 psi ,and then starts to break up my first question is how can I block off the return line to the tank, there's no rubber hose in any of the connections just steel lines and hard plastic with push connectors, is there a plug that you can buy or how I can block off the return to see if the pump will build pressure to 75 psi to 80 psi will this will tell me whether the pressure regulator is faulty or the fuel pump needs to be replaced.
I have a manual its a Haynes for chevy blazer gmc from 95 to 2004 it says with central sequential fuel injections (csefi) key on engine not running it should be approx 55-61 psi the engines running at idle it should decrease through 3 to 10 psi according to this manual i am within range but i have read on other posts that it should be 60-65 would you say that my 55 psi reading is okay? or should it be 60-65? also when i blocked the return line should i get a reading of 75 or higher? if the reading goes up does that mean that the fuel regulator is faulty? and if it doesn't go up does that confirm that the fuel pump is the issue?
Golf IV / Jetta IV :: GLI 1.8t - Loss Of Power / Misfire Under Acceleration
I have a 04.5 GLI 1.8t, performance mods include, cone filter on the end of my maf, silicone TIP, Forge splitter, 3in custom tbe and unitronics stage 2
I started noticing this problem on the day I got the car tuned, I hadn't noticed it before hand. I replaced the spark plugs and it worked a little, but it continues to do it.
The problem: When I get on it at WOT under full boost, around 2500 rpms, the car loses all torque, misfires spits and sputters throughout the rpm range until about 5300 rpms then it all of a sudden has torque and pulls great.
I don't have any boost leaks that I know of along with vaccum leaks. There is no flashing cel or misfire code for my coil packs. Can this be a faulty n75 valve? if so what could fix it?
Mazda - Protege :: 1995 ES - Loss Of Power During Acceleration
I am the original owner of the car, which has approximately 125k miles on it. The car has given me great service, but lately a strange problem arose that has my mechanic stumped. When I try to accelerate, the car typically does not respond. After 5 seconds or so, the engine suddenly comes to life and the car begins to accelerate. At high speeds it is not an issue, but the engine sputters once in a while. It has never stalled. It is not the transmission because the RPM stays low during low-power times.
The mechanic initially thought that it was a dirty fuel filter. But, changing it has not worked. Once the engine light came on, and the code was for the air-flow sensor. But, the mechanic is not convinced about that.
The problem tends to become worse after driving for a while, after the engine has warmed up.