Sonata NF (2006-10) :: Power Doors / Trunk Not Working When Ignition Off
May 9, 2013
2006 Sonata GLS. When I lock/unlock door with keyfob, it beeps, but doors or trunks will not open/close. When I put key in ignition and either start or turn to on, I can press keyfob and lock/unlock doors and unlock trunk. Manual trunk release in drivers foot area does nothing unless car is on. Checked all fuses (passenger driver compartment and under hood). What is the exact fuse to focus on, or if this could be some other issue ? BCM ?
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My sonata 2009 power windows for the rear passenger doors are not working. From the driver's master switch , i can control all 4 power windows with no problem. But if i go to the rear doors (LH and RH) and use the power window switch from there. The windows don't go up or done. There is no sound like the motor is moving. Not very familiar with power windows circuit. But base on the description, by deduction, does it mean the rear power windows switch is broken ? Is there anything that i should check also. Is there any sites that has a diagram on how the power windows are interconnected.
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I bought used, and the ignition key will not open up the trunk. Do I need a separate key for that?
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Ok so this started with the ignition key cylinder locking and refusing to turn. Some tri-flow, patience and judicious taps of a hammer fixed that issue, but not before i pried apart the plastic cap that keeps the little spring loaded plunger in place that actuates the ding ding when the key is inserted to the ignition. This little plunger has a couple of contacts and is wired to the little green bulb that illuminates the ring around the ignition key. Everything was just fine until i caused an arc between the exposed contacts and the side of the ignition cylinder.
Now neither the fob nor the door switch will lock or unlock the doors or the trunk unless the key is in the 'on' position. It should be hot at all times. What have I shorted out? I checked all the fuses and of course they are fine. My nightmare is that i have messed up an expensive module. I did find the plastic cap and plunger hiding under and behind the heat ducts to the rear seats and put that back together, so there are no exposed contacts, but the damage has been done.
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The fob we use most often will not open the doors or trunk, although it will work when I use it in the ignition. The battery is ok. VW Passat 2006 ...
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I have a problem with my 09 Sonata. Blower motor does not work at all, on any setting. I thinks it's not getting any power. When I turn the blower on, on the dash, little red light does not come on on the switch. I think the switch itself that controls the speed and power to the blower is not getting any power.
I checked fuses that control the blower and they are fine (I looked up fuse location online).
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The front passenger window on my 2007 Sonata has always been sluggish. Recently it broke (I heard something snap) when I tried to roll it down on a cold day. I decided I want to take a shot at fixing it myself before bringing it in to the mechanic. I've made some progress but I'm having trouble removing the inner door panel where the window regulator mechanism is.
The window can be pushed down or pulled up by hand fairly easily, but there's enough resistance (for now) to hold it in place and keep it from just dropping down into the door.
I removed the main door panel without any problems. The window regulator cables and mechanism are behind a second panel that I'm having trouble removing and I can see through the holes in the inner panel that the window is still attached to the two "lifters".
I haven't been able to find a lot of detailed instructions for this step. I've been following the steps outlined in some this youtube video [URL] ...., but there seems to be something I'm missing when I try to get the panel off.
I have freed the black adhesive around the edge of the panel, and I've removed all the main bolts on the inside of the door, the 3 bolts at the door latch, detached the inner door handle and removed the outer door handle, but I still can't get much movement in the panel to free it. I'm hesitant to tug or pry the panel too hard because I don't want to bend the metal at all and ruin the fit with the door.
Is there any trick to loosening the panel so that it comes out and I can get behind it? Do I need to slide or rotate it, or is it held by any clips similar to the ones that held the main door panel? Most of the resistance seems to be coming from the area to the right of the speaker (between the speaker and where the inside handle to close the door would be). I can try to provide more details if necessary.
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My control of the both right side windows on the driver side do not function but I am able to move them when I control them individually. Is there a solution to fix this issue by myself or will I have to take it to a maintenance shop?
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I often make 25-30 quick drop off stops on my daily travels and need How to lock the doors with the car running as that many stops and starts will wear out my starter and be really hard on the car.
I know it is possible for the doors to lock while the engine is running as my car came with an aftermarket (pro start) remote starter. It will actually lock the door when it starts the engine, which is inherently useless as my car is always locked when I start it (from the the house) before I get dressed to go outside in cold weatheras well as I am not worried about someone driving away in it without the key to start.
In my old car (mazda) I could just keep the FOB in my pocket and lock the doors either manually or by the FOB when I got out. My Sonata wont even lock by the the FOB which is really frustrating because obviously in that case I am leaving the car running and want to lock the doors, IE: to warm up the car. I can understand why the door locks are disabled with the key in to prevent lockouts but if you need to warm up your car or Like me need to lock it while I am gone for less than a min.
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I have a 2007. So as the title says, my battery is completely dead, and my trunk is locked. I have the master key, but for some reason, it won't unlock the trunk. It will unlock the front door, but not the trunk. The switch on the dash won't release the trunk because the battery is dead, and the seat release is in the locked position, so I can't get in my trunk from inside the cabin either. This is an incredibly inconvenient situation, because I have jumper cables right there inside of my trunk.
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Suddenly my 2007 Sonata Limited trunk and gas lid fuse keeps blowing.
I'm not an electrical guy so I don't know how to check with a meter, I oiled the latches. My car was rear ended near the tank lid/bumper area a few years ago, but everything worked fine til recently.
I can replace the fuse, but after a few uses it will blow, sometimes it will blow without being used. I can't tell if it's the trunk or gas lid causing the problem because nothing will happen immediately, Basically I am only finding out my fuse blew when I need to use it.
Where I could look to inspect the wiring for kinks or it's connection run?
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Own a 2006 Sonata GLS 3.3L.
Having an issue where the trunk indicator light stays on on the dash and won't turn off; just started yesterday. It causes the car alarm to go off prematurely when the car is locked via remote and will not beep when locked twice with remote indicating that it is locked.
Otherwise the trunk functions properly, opens and closes fine, latches fine. The only work done in the past 3 months was an oil change a few days ago.
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I have a 2006 Sonata. The trunk will not open with remote, latch or key. What do I do? There isnt a vallet switch.
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I have Sonata 06 3.3L V6, vacuum getting confirmed code p0171 system too lean bank 1,and pending faults are both lean and rich on both banks and also at idle. i check vacuum leaks but no luck, one thing I observed when I drove car at high speed only 3000 rpm or above LTFT 1 corrected to 0. I am using torque app.
I can not open my trunk through remote key, it is opening with driver side switch, trunk lid latch is unlocked position, remote key is working fine with doors.?
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Is there a way to tighten, or adjust the rear doors to stay open? Mine close by themselves on even a slight incline.
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This is the original key that I've used since the car was new. This morning I stopped the car, shifted into PARK, and turned the key to shutoff the engine and accessories. The key turned completely as it should, but the steering wheel did not lock and the key will not come out. I messed with it a bit but with no luck. An usher walking by got in and tried it a few times, but no luck. The car will start and run fine, I just can't get the key out of the ignition.
This also means the key fob won't lock the doors, so I have to leave the key in the ignition and the doors are unlocked. GREAT!! I have an appointment with the dealership on Thursday of this week, until then I'm driving my other car and leaving the Sonata in the garage.
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I have a 2006 Hyundai Sonata GLS V6 with about 135K miles. The key will insert fully into the ignition, but will not turn. It will remove easily as well. Just not turn. I am unable to start. I have sprayed lock lubricant with graphite into the slot with no success.
Oddly, there is slight pressure on the steering wheel, just like you parked it with the wheels turned all the way to one side. However, the wheels are straight as the car sits in the garage. But, there is still slight pressure on the steering wheel. I can rock (move) the steering wheel back and forth, and relieve the pressure on the ignition lock, but the key still will not turn.
Note, this is the third time that this has happened. About three months ago, I could not turn the key and had it towed to an independent garage. The key turned immediately for the mechanic and he could not duplicate the problem.
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My dome light stays on and green when my doors are closed and the door button is pressed. They light up bright white and normal in use but don't completely turned off unless I unpress the door button...
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How to disable the trunk release on the driver's side door? If I lock the trunk, the fob trunk release is also disabled.
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So I already changed the Driver Side upper Control arm. But there is still squeaky noises coming from the trunk area, esp at low speeds going over small hills and small pot holes. I saw this is common on our cars and wanted to know which parts were to be replaced. At 110k, is it worth repairing piece by piece or should I do the shocks, ball joints and such at once.
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I disconnected the battery to clean the terminals and now the lights won't flash when I lock the doors with the remote. I guess I lost the programming, how do I change it back? I have a 2007 Sonata.
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