Sonata NF (2006-10) :: Overheating Rear Brake - Smoke Coming Out
Jul 23, 2011
Ok today I just drove from my house to my parents to get an electrical panel and it drove fine. It is about 17 miles of 55mph country winding highway. I arrive there and I smell the all too familiar hot brakes smell. I get out and see a little smoke coming from the right rear brakes. I know it must be either a locking up caliper or a bad caliper bracket as these are the Akebono brakes. What are your recommendations for replacement parts?
I plan to replace the drivers side rotor as more than likely it is now warped. I plan to change pads on both sides and the drivers side rear caliper. Is there a special procedure for a vehicle with anti-lock brakes to properly bleed them? I have a caliper spreader will I screw up the accumulator for the ABS if I just spread the old caliper for removal?
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I recently purchased Sonata NF 2006, with L4 engine with 108 miles on it. I noticed that mpg is very low - 16-17 50/50 city and highway. The engine runs smooth and pretty fast for 4 cylinder engine, there is no smoke coming from the exhaust. While driving with A/C on i did not notice any pressure on generator or anything like that.
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Lately I have noticed an intermittent strong overheating odor coming from the rear passenger tire area of my 1999 Sonata. I was also beginning to notice the car vibrating or riding unevenly. I took it in to Les Schwab to have the brakes checked and was told they were fine with over 50% on all four brakes. I did have the front tires replaced as they were worn and wearing unevenly and was told this is what was more than likely causing the vibrating. That was a couple of weeks ago and I had not noticed any odor coming from the wheel well until yesterday the minute I opened my car door after driving home from work there was the same strong toxic smelling odor coming from the same rear passenger wheel well, but not from anywhere else. I have only noticed this smell after driving home from work and there is a fairly steep hill I go down not too far from my home. Is this a brake issue or something else?
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I bought a 2006 Sonata V6 3.3L with 137k on it about a month ago. Engine and Trans is great, but I noticed an issue that developed within the past week and a half or so.
I am one to always engage the parking brake when parked, to relieve pressure on the parking paw in the transmission. After about a week of heavy use of the parking brake, I began to hear a slight 'clunk, clunk, clunk' coming from the rear passenger wheel (it actually sounded like something was loose in the trunk, but ruled it out). The 'clunk' sound at first only happened going over rough or bumpy roads, but within the past week or so it's gotten louder and more consistent. It now 'clunks' regardless of speed or road surface.
I used the parking break today for the first time while the car was in motion, and when pulled it sqreached very loud, didn't really stop the car, but the 'clunk' became very loud while the break was pulled - shockingly loud, actually.
A couple of days ago I took the rear passenger tire off while jacked up, and spun the wheel. With neither the parking or regular breaks engaged, the wheel made a 'clunk' sound very similar to that it makes on the road. Took of the Tire/Rim and spun the Rotor, to hear the same sound. Attempted to wiggle the Rotor and found no play at all.
At first, the clunk went away when you pressed the floor board brake pedal, even just a slight bit stopped the noise. Now it doesn't seem to stop it any longer.
My main idea is that the parking brake in the Rotor is the culprit, given that the issues didn't arise until I started using the parking brake - and the fact that brake appears to not work very well. However, my dad tells me he thinks it's a wheel bearing. I don't think it is - as its not making any metal on metal sounds, nor is it very difficult to rotate the Rotor while jacked up.
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I have changed the brake light in the rear deck 3 times in the last 2 months. Why they keep burning out?
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I bought a 2006 Sonata V6 3.3L with 137k on it about a month ago. Engine and Trans is great, but I noticed an issue that developed within the past week and a half or so.
I am one to always engage the parking brake when parked, to relieve pressure on the parking paw in the transmission. After about a week of heavy use of the parking brake, I began to hear a slight 'clunk, clunk, clunk' coming from the rear passenger wheel (it actually sounded like something was loose in the trunk, but ruled it out). The 'clunk' sound at first only happened going over rough or bumpy roads, but within the past week or so it's gotten louder and more consistent. It now 'clunks' regardless of speed or road surface.
I used the parking break today for the first time while the car was in motion, and when pulled it sqreached very loud, didn't really stop the car, but the 'clunk' became very loud while the break was pulled - shockingly loud, actually.
A couple of days ago I took the rear passenger tire off while jacked up, and spun the wheel. With neither the parking or regular breaks engaged, the wheel made a 'clunk' sound very similar to that it makes on the road. Took of the Tire/Rim and spun the Rotor, to hear the same sound. Attempted to wiggle the Rotor and found no play at all.
At first, the clunk went away when you pressed the floor board brake pedal, even just a slight bit stopped the noise. Now it doesn't seem to stop it any longer.
My main idea is that the parking brake in the Rotor is the culprit, given that the issues didn't arise until I started using the parking brake - and the fact that brake appears to not work very well. However, my dad tells me he thinks it's a wheel bearing. I don't think it is - as its not making any metal on metal sounds, nor is it very difficult to rotate the Rotor while jacked up.
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My car was starting to over heat and I wasn't getting any heat thru the vents. Thermostat was replaced and so was the radiator cap. The coolant reservoir is still topped off, and doesn't seem to be getting sucked thru to the radiator. If I pour coolant directly into the radiator, car temp stays even, and heat eventually does come thru vents, better while driving. But, I still get steam/smoke coming from radiator cap. I cannot be buying and pouring coolant into the radiator everyday. I have a 99 Mitsubishi Eclipse with approx 140xxx miles...
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I have noticed what I can best describe as a squeaky noise that appears to be coming from the rear of the vehicle. At first I thought it was the breaks, (as most of the time when I left off the breaks after being stopped I hear the noise), but I also notice the noise while turning and also when getting into my car to sit in the seat (Or pushing down on the rear of the car). Almost sounds like something in the suspension needs to be lubricated (a bushing perhaps)?
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Car has a weird shaking or vibrating coming from the middle or the rear of the car, I can't really describe it. You can only notice it at low speeds, and it's only noticeable after you drive for a while, it doesn't happen immediately. It happens whether you press on the brake or not, just while driving. I'm not sure how I should handle the situation either. I changed my rotors and brake pads because I thought that might have been the problem, but it turned out it wasn't.
I took it to the dealer, they said it was the end links that were loose so they changed that. It didn't fix the problem. I took the car back, and they checked it out, they couldn't locate the problem. They put it on the lift, said it wasn't the sway bar, suspension, etc.
They said because I didn't change the "brake pad clips"(I'm not sure what to call them), and they appear to be the original ones that came with the car, I'm not really sure if they are or not, but I know the brake pads were changed once, but maybe that wasn't changed, I need to change them first, and since they looked for a problem and don't want to waste more of their time (basically what they told me, they will start charging me to find the problem now), they will charge me $159 labor + $20 for the part + tax to change it. Now it may or may not fix the problem, that may not be the problem at all, and if it doesn't fix it then I'm out almost $200 for no reason. They said they don't want to waste time, and it's ridiculous to look for a problem with my car. But the problem is it's a vibration or a shaking, and I would think that SHOULD be covered by the warranty.
Should I try taking this to a different dealer, and pretty much never go back there again? Get the part changed myself at a different mechanic shop, as I don't see a reason to spend $179 + tax at Hyundai.
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Yesterday i noticed that the right rear brake light and high mounted brake light does not work when i press brake only the left one work, although the right tail light work well when parking light is turned on. Is it a matter of fuse or wiring cut.
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I have a 2001 nissan altima. About 4 weeks ago it started over heating, smoke coming from under the hood, not the gauge raising. I took it to my mechanic and he replaced the big hose going from the radiator to the engine. I got it back and about 2 days later it started again overheating again, smoke under the hood. Took it back and he said the radiator is leaking it was under a year old so he replaced it, i drove it home on a sunday and monday morning I drove to work 5 miles at 10 am break it had two puddles under it. He said it's the radiator again, replaced it and we went to pick it up and he said it blew again. Sounds odd to me He finally said they thought it was the fans. The gauge never ran hot only the smoke coming from under the hood. If your looking under the hood it was wet on the left side. Needless to say he has had my car for almost 2 weeks and it's still not fixed. My question is should I go get it and take it somewhere else. What damage will it do to drive it somewhere else?
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For the last year or so i have been annoyed severely by a clunking knocking sound from the rear (possibly passenger side) of the car. The noise occurs when there is torsion occurring or a sudden change of direction. I can go over a huge speed bump or pothole and not hear a thing yet the slightest change in direction or torsion will cause this extremely annoying heavy metal clunking knocking sound. I tightened every suspension system related screw in the rear of the car and the noise is still present.
The car is lowered on H&R springs (approx. 1.4 drop) so im wondering if maybe there is an additional stress that has been torturing the sway bar links for the last 3 years causing this noise. Or could it be the shocks (which are working properly)?
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I have pushed the back windshield, and haven't gotten a peep anywhere, so it's not that. It's coming from the outside, because it is so much louder driving slower with the windows down. It appears to be coming from the rear left of the car. It's a definite "creak," and not a "thunk." Sounds like creepy stairs being walked over repeatedly...I haven't investigated hard enough to really pin point the direct spot, but it would sound to me like it has something to do with the suspension in the back left. However, it's not any more prominent when I hit a bump than it is just accelerating or decelerating, so that also leads me away from it being a suspension issue. I know I should look further into it to locate the spot.
A little more info on the car : 2006 Sonata LX ... 67,000 miles (no warranty)
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Over the past few weeks, I have noticed a clicking sound coming from the right rear brake when they are moderately applied when stopping. Doesnt seem to happen under light braking. I figured something in there must have gotten loose so I got to taking the drum off to inspect and clean the insides, or see if anything was broken. Everything seemed to be in order, inside of the drum looks fine as do the shoes, Nothing is really jumping out at me as a cause to this noise. I hit the brakes with the shop vac to suck out any brake dust I could get.
Then, with the drum off, I had my fiance apply the brakes a few times, and the parking brake, just so I could see if something in there was not operating as it should. Heh. I dont think you are supposed to do that with the drum off. The shoe adjuster fell off the shoes (#2 below) So I had to get that back in place and I am pretty sure I have it in right. I go to put the drum back on, and the pads are now too far apart and it wont go back on.
So, I decide to try opening the bleeder valve on the brake cylinder to see if I can get the pads to move in at all. it drips but I cant get the pads to budge. Then I shortened up the shoe adjuster all the way so I could get the drum back on.
Now my parking brake lever, I have to pull it waaay up to even get the parking brake to engage. I figure I have to go back and crank that adjuster out some so the shoes engage sooner. Also, I probably got air in the brake line when I opened the bleeder, so I have to bleed the brakes for real.
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I have a Hyundai Elantra 2001 that I just bought off someone. I've had the car maybe 2 weeks, I changed the radiator because it overheated last week. Then, I found out the valve cover was cracked in four places, I replaced those too... I bought and installed a new thermostat, and I thought that would be the end of overheating... I was wrong, last night I felt like I smelled antifreeze strongly, so I parked it and this morning before heading home from work, I checked the radiator, it was empty. I filled it with antifreeze, and headed home, 20 minutes later, I parked on my drive and see that I have a huge leak... and it's antifreeze.
So, seems like I had left the cap open somehow, I didn't close it all the way. That was understandable, so I put some more coolant in it, and took off in the afternoon - 20 minutes into my drive, it starts slowly overheating, I see the gauge going up so I pull over, as soon as I do the car shuts off. I took the keys off the ignition and opened the hood. Now, there's smoke coming off the engine (smoke came from under the valve covers). I gave it 20 minutes rest at least, then added water in the radiator. Turned it on and it worked ok for about 5 minutes, I drove 2 hours to get it home at this rate, stopping every so often. Then, got it home and parked it.
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I have a 2007 Honda Odyssey touring model. Recently I had it serviced at the Honda dealership. In addition to my requested front end alignment and oil and filter change, they talked me into a radiator flush, fuel inj. service, air filter replacements and battery service. I drove the car home after wards even filling up with gas before going home. This drive was about 55 miles. I never noticed any problems. The next day, I left for Montghomery AL towing a trailer with a motorcycle trike on it. We stopped for lunch and continued. The car suddenly started making a grinding noise from engine compartment and suddenly white smoke started coming out from the hood. I immediately pulled over and we got out of the car for fear of fire. This was the first time I had any indication of a problem.
After a short time, I opened the hood to see what was wrong and noticed that the radiator cap was sitting upside down next to opening. I had the vehicle towed to Chattanooga where I was told there was serious damage to the engine. I had them repair it (they were an AAA approved towing and repair shop). I also took pictures of the engine compartment. I went back to the dealership and asked to be reembursed for my expenses and the cost of repairs and the owner refused. He said he didn't believe they left the cap off and since he started out in the service department he didn't believe the car could even go that far without overheating. My question is: Is it possible for a 2007 Honda Odyssey to travel approximately 220 miles over two days before overheating and wrecking the engine if the radiator cap was left off and/or if no fluid was even added and the radiator cap was left off?
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My 2006 Sonata GLS 3.3 started dripping water the other day from the ceiling handle. The drain hoses do not appear to be plugged, water runs freely out. I pulled off the headliner around the place of the leak, and I can kind of see a plastic attachment with the drain hose on the corner of the sunroof frame. The water is coming from somewhere from it, but not from the hose attachment.
My question is, Do I have to replace the sunroof frame? Is it difficult to do? Or can I get away epoxying around the leak if it's small enough? In any case, how hard is it to remove the headliner?
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I have a 2008 F250 which has been a awesome truck. Very few issues except for one that no one can seem to fix. Its regarding my brakes and a mysterious reason all of them have to a degree locked up and smoked the pads rotors etc. I now have 80k on the truck and have replaced all brakes once and now the front left have locked up for a second time. The scenario goes like this:
So i'm driving along and if the front brake locks up I can begin to smell it. So I pull over and smoke rolls out along with the overheating popping sound from the effected brake. Rear brakes usually are not found until I stop which i get out and then can smell them. Funny thing is the brakes have locked up when not towing. Also, I have never had more than one happen at a time. So as today all brake pads and rotors have been replaced and now the left front has overheated again. From what I can tell the caliper just doesn't fully release. What could be causing this?
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Brake rear drums overheating on My LC 80 series '90 GX model has been having reoccurring left side rear overheating after driving for 2-3 hours in traffic. It has been worked on many times since the lastest attempt both sides heated to about 100-110+F on the rim with the right one the hotter. The wheel cylinders have been replaced, the brake shoes, bearings and seals on the left side in the hub with the springs, self adjuster and cable in the drum, the front disc pads also. There has been some engineering: welding on the lh rear axle diff tube which was done. The problem stressed out the last mechanic. He wants to replace the master cylinder next. Remove self-adjuster mechanisms is it a possible fix?
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When I drive on a hot day the engine overheads; it almost red-lines. This occurs mostly when I drive up long steep hills (I live in the mountains) with the AC on, but even without the AC on very long steep hills (5+ miles) the engine will overheat badly. I can go over a hill and head downhill or flat and things return to normal quickly. I can also drive with the AC on doing 0-80 mph on a flat road and everything is fine all the time.
- Fan is working
- Thermostat has been replaced
- Radiator flushed
- Engine coolant temp sensor replaced
- Heat is working
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My 2011 Sonata is now at 56000 km (35k mi). While driving with a friend, I floored it when entering on the highway and he told me there was some dark smoke coming out of the exhaust.
I take very good care of my car and recently started using supreme gas and synthetic oil. It runs very smooth and never really had any problems... should I be worried? Is this normal?
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