Sonata NF (2006-10) :: Oil Pressure Light At Idle And CEL With Codes P0011 / P0051
Mar 18, 2016
I recently bought a 08 Sonata V6, with 94K mileage. The oil pressure light comes on when the engine is idle (around 700-800 rpm). The seller told me that this problem started a few months ago, but the car has not been used much since then. He also said that he has changed the oil after that, but the problem still persists.
The engine light has shown up more recently, like in a week or two. I took the car to a mechanic and he could not guess what the problem might be. But he gave me the error codes: P0011, and P0051. There are no other obvious symptoms (e.g. oil leakage, low oil level, unusual sound from the engine).
I could not find any thread regarding both of these issues (Oil Pressure, and the error codes) together. Any connection between these two?
So far, I have realized that the oil pressure can be due to a bad sensor, and P0011 has something to do with CVVT, and Oil Control Valve (OCV). But I would like to make sure I don't just waste money by replacing the sensor and OCV.
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My car has had a rough idle (no MIL). Scanned for codes and got the following:
P0552 - Power Steering Pressure Sensor - Low
P0553 - Power Steering Pressure Sensor - High
I'm picking up the part at the dealer this afternoon. I printed out a diagram of the component location, and it looks to be easily accessible.
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I have a 2006 Sonata with an intermittent check engine light. The light will be on for a few days then goes out for a day or two. This pattern has been going on for about 3 months now. A scan tool was used and showed the code P0011. I know this code has to do with the camshaft timing. My question is should the light be going out on its own if there was a problem with the camshaft timing? Does the engine correct itself and then experience the problem again. Is it normal for check engine lights to go on and off with out being manually reset? Could this be a faulty sensor or loose wire causing the light to go on and off? The car has about 75,000 miles, mostly Hwy, and is driven just about everyday.
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Well, it's looking sort of depressing for my '06 Sonata! I had an oil change done yesterday and now I'm getting a Low Oil Pressure Light on idle under 1,000 rpm's. Today the check engine light came on and it's code P0021.
I also experience very noisy "bearing" type noise upon start-up which happens for about 10 seconds or so. This has been going on for a month or so.
During my online research it's appearing that I may be suffering from the dreaded Timing Chain Tensioner I've read a lot about.
I'm aware of the TSB (10-EM-006) and have a copy of it if needed.
My question is this...my Sonata has 151,000 miles on it, well beyond the 100k warranty period. Will Hyundai repair my issue as a warranty item under that TSB?
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Show 2 error P0011 and P0014.
Sonata YF 2010 2.0 80.000kms ....
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I have a 2003 20th ann. GTI, it shut off on me on my way to work. It would turn on but only for a sec and turn back off. I turned it on and tried to move it over out the way of traffic and wouldnt move and turn back off. Got the check engine light checked and the codes P1007 which is coolant temp sensor and P0011 which is camshaft sensor. I replaced both and problem not solved car will start but wont go and turns back off, black smoke and a strong smell of gas comes out the exhaust.
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I have a 2007 GLS. Within the past year I had about 4 or 5 difficult starts. Just recently I got a CEL with cod P0011. I replaced the OCV as that is the usual culprit. Within 6 miles of clearing the CEL, I am still getting the same CEL. I am wondering if the problem is either the wiring harness or the Camshaft Position Sensor.
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Alright, so I was driving along and everything was fine, I had no error lights and the car was running perfectly. I accidentally went over a lip of this parking lot a little too fast and all of a sudden the check engine light came on!!! I took it to Jiffy Lube and the codes I got were : c1253, c1311, p0011, and p0012. Is my car safe to drive tomarrow? Are these super expensive to fix? Could they have been set off from the curb?
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I've got a troublesome misfire in a 2007 Sonata V6, 70k miles, which I have been trying and failing to track down for a long time.
More than a year ago, the owner of the car complained of rough idle. When this was first mentioned, I looked at the car, she and I talked, and I concluded that she hadn't changed the oil in some 20k miles. ...... Nothing else seemed wrong. I changed the oil, thinking that what she needed was an oil change.
Some time later, I was in the car myself and all of a sudden felt a strong bucking. Must've been a misfire. I recommended taking it to the Hyundai dealer, thinking the so-called 100k mile powertrain warranty would cover whatever it was (it didn't but whatever).
We drove it to the dealer. The dealer firstly informed us that the CEL had burned out, so we had missed some codes. The dealer further us the car needed new plugs and replacement of both upstream O2 sensors. Here was what the mechanic wrote:
"BETWEEN 35-40 PUT CRUISE ON AND WILL FEEL. CHECK AND ADVISE COMES AND GOES. MULTIPLE CODES STORED IN SYSTEM. ... P0300 RANDOM MISFIRE (ACTIVE), P0140 O2 SENSOR CIRCUIT NO ACTIVITY, P0154 O2 BS S1 NO ACTIVITY. WATCHED O2 VALUES AND FOUND ERRATIC READINGS. FOUND TSB 10-FL-012 SUGGESTING REPLACEMENT OF BOTH UPSTREAM O2 SENSORS. RECOMMEND COMPLETE SYSTEM TUNE UP FOR RANDOM MISFIRE. HOWEVER MISFIRE COULD BE RELATED TO O2 ACTIVITY.
So the owner went to a different mechanic and had the plugs, upstream O2 sensors, and one of the downstream sensors replaced. All OEM, I believe. ($$$!) (O2 sensor parts 39210-3C100, -3C200, and -3C400) Dunno why the downstream one was replaced, not my doing.
Following this, there was no real improvement. No codes either. The problem comes and goes, so maybe I thought it was fixed, but it has come back. Sometimes, it can be felt just slightly when the car starts cold. Other times, it can be felt just barely when driving at a consistent speed. Sometimes, the problem becomes really bad and jerks the car around. Other times, nothing.
What to check next? Coil packs? Intake manifold gasket? She never gets "top tier gasoline," but I would be skeptical that that's the problem. These are the top three suggestions I've heard.
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I have already concluded I need to replace my OCV on my 2007 2.4L GLS Sonata.
I have also been starting to hear a clicking noise associated with reducing throttle when in the 2500-3100 rpm range. It seems to only make this quiet clicking noise when the throttle is reducing and within the RPM range from above.
I am just wondering if this may be associated with the OCV needing to be replaced. I suppose I will find out for sure when I do finally get around to replacing the OCV sometime this month.
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My check engine light came on the other day, and I went to Autozone to have the code read. Of course, that indicated the camshaft position sensor was detecting a fault. I read through all the posts relating to the fault, headed up to my local Hyundai dealer, and picked up the oil flow control valve for about $50 plus tax. While I was there, I figured I might as well have them do an oil change, since it was way past due. No point in putting in a new part with dirty oil..right? They did the oil change, washed the car and I was ready to roll. My plan was to replace the part myself, but magically, the check engine light has not come back on since.
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I have 2 x P0031 and 2 x P0051 after an accident. I rear ended an SUV. My hood got bent and the radiator got pushed in. The body shop said they don't think it was due to an accident. I can't possibly have 4 sensors go on me.
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I am checking my car parameters at idle. I was comparing the values of intake manifold pressure and vacuum. When I press accelerator or give gas means throttle plate opening my manifold pressure decreases and vacuum increases, I hear when throttle plate open more air come inside so manifold pressure must be increases and vacuum decreases. Am I right? if so which part will be culprit of this action?
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The light just came on in my 06 Sonata 3.3L, showing many codes... P0171B, P0172B, P2187, P2188, P0174B, P0175B, P2189, and P2190. All of these just came on at once, within the last hour. Everything that is stated is regarding Too Lean or Too Rich on Bank's 1 & 2. Where to start on this...
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so I bought a 2008 Sonata with 70K miles about a month ago...
about a week ago, I noticed the oil pressure light was not going off immediately, it would stay on for like 5-10 seconds after the engine would start, usually it would fade away, sometimes flicker..
anyway, the time it stayed on and took to turn off got progressively longer every day (as long as 30-45 seconds) but it eventually goes away... well today the check engine light came on, and now the oil pressure light will flicker occasionally, and seems to do so based on actual pressure, not like a loose wire or something...
whats weird is if i'm acclerating, or maintaining steady RPMS, there is no light, but if i let off the gas, it will come on real quick, like a fraction of a second and go away, but when the car shifts (the same type of RPM drop) it doesn't happen...
anyway, I'm pretty chapped about it as I just got the car less than a month ago and bought it as is, but now i'm freaking out..
oh also the car doesn't leak, the oil change is less than 1K miles old and the oil is showing full on dipstick.
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2010 Sonata GL Sport at 122,000 kms (75,800 miles)
Engine Malfunction Light came on solid. Using ODBII reader, my Honda mechanic friend read the codes to be
P0106 Current, Pending, Permanent - Faulty Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor
P0304 Pending - Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected
He replaced MAP sensor and Coil pack. But the Engine Light remains on solid. Now its only giving code P0106 which kind of points back to MAP sensor.
Spark plugs has never been replaced so I've been suggesting to replace it anyways proactively.
Questions:
1. What else may be causing the Engine Light?
2. When do Spark Plugs typically get replaced?
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Car keeps tripping P0885 P0890 codes and sets engine light on. I've tried swapping ATN relay and cleaning connector in TCM and Relay box. It's intermittent comes on at least every other day. Shifts fine when engine light reset. But when the P0885 comes up it goes into limp mode. Just bought this car We bought an after market warranty but shop say they won't cover Engine light codes or intermittent.
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The check engine light on my 2006 Toyota Camry LE with 95,300 miles came up. The codes that came up on my diagnostic tool were p0011, p0101, and p0113. The code meanings are as follows:
p0011: refers to the VVT (variable valve timing) or VCT (variable camshaft timing) components and the car's power control module
p0101: problem with the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor or circuit
p0113: possibly issues with the Intake Air Temperature Sensor
How to solve the issue and get that annoying check engine light off?
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I just picked up my 'new'/used 2006 sonata! unfortunately, about 11 months in now, i have a check engine light and some codes; a local store told me what the codes were (i haven't got a code reader yet) and as i was researching them it sounds like either a bad O2 sensor or just the wiring going to it.?.? Codes are P0160, P2273, P0158. How can i tell what is actually bad? I am 'ok' at 'fixing'; just trying to save from an expensive garage repair if at all possible.
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The tire pressure warning light came on about a week after the tires were rotated (and I assume filled) at the dealer. My son in law checked all 4 tires and they were above 30. Didn't want to fill anymore since I have the green caps. Light is still on. Is it safe to drive on highway at 75/80 mph? How does this light determine low pressure. Why is it still on? No other problem so hate to go to dealer for this but would like the light to go out.
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My 05 Passat, 1.8t keeps showing p0010. The cam tensioner and camshaft sensor have both been replaced, the oil pressure is correct but it keeps showing the codes with the CEL on.
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