Sonata NF (2006-10) :: Oil In The Vicinity Of The Alternator
Nov 13, 2015
I have oil in the vicinity of the alternator. What do you think it is leaking from and is it difficult to fix? It is a 2006 Sonata V6 with 105,000 miles on it. Runs great and I never have to add oil. I change it religiously every 5000 miles. I have always had all scheduled maintenance done. The oil buildup is worse right under the pulley in the dead center of the picture. It doesn't leak onto the ground.. just always damp with oil in that area. Also notice the power steering hose that is just outboard and below all the pulleys for the serpentine belt always looks like it has oil on it.
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I recently purchased a 2006 Sonata with 70k miles on it. The dealership said it had one previous owner, and was in great condition. I should've had it checked out before purchasing. Now that I've driven it a few weeks I've noticed the headlights dimming when I press on the break. My brother checked it out and said my grounds were all okay, but there was oil leaking onto my alternator. He said it should just be the valve cover gasket that needs to be replaced.
What is considered a fair price to replace it? I dont know how detailed he looked into it, but it is on the left side of the engine. I've read that's the cheaper one to replace, will they allow me to replace without replacing the right side? Also, Will that solve the headlight dimming issue?
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I have a 2009 Hyundai sonata 2.4, 5 speed manual, gls, how to change /replace the alternator in this car, it looks to be in tight qtrs.!, step by step instructions and or diagrams required., and can a bad alternator make the battery go bad /, I replace the battery with a new one and my dash light of the " battery" stays on most of time , now Oreillys tested my alternator in car and they say my alternator is now bad1, can both go bad at same time!, , and also my ESC light comes on as I start driving after I had just started the car, can this be also tied in with the "bad battery/bad alternator"...
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I noticed quite a bit of oil on my alternator recently, and it looks like oil is leaking out of the sides of my engine. Does this mean that my valve cover gasket needs replacing and if so what should a mechanic charge for this i.e. how long should the job take?
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I've got a 2010 base with the 4 cylinder. When you make a turn (mostly right, but sometimes left) through puddles the power steering and alternator temporarily go out. I believe it is a belt/power failure as a result of the water being splashed into the area - none-the-less, it's a potentially very dangerous situation.
I did a quick check and it looks like all the plastic is there and in good shape. I do realize there is an engine splash guard on this model and it is in place.
A footnote - the car did take a light hit in the front before I bought it. It was "patched" together and sold. They didn't do a terrible job (as it looks ok), but you can tell "things" aren't perfect.
Since the splash guard is in place - What should I be looking for?
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My alternator went out , don't have the cash to pay a mechanic to do it for me. How to go about this the best way??!
Noticed that strange rattling sound upon starting up ?? I have a 2006 Sonata V6 . At first I thought it was normal I listened to other sonatas heard the same thing, but I don't think its normal googled it found some info but no clear answer , any way to fix it?
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What difficulties might I run into on switching in the HO alternator. Is it that hard to get the stock alt out/putting the serpentine belt back on once i get the HO alt in?
Any pictures or videos to make this job easier? The stock alt almost looks impossible to get out unless i remove the entire radiator.. Should I just bring it to a shop and have them install it?
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My 2002 SC 430 has a rattle in the vicinity of the passenger side speaker. I have isolated it to this area because the rattle stops as soon as I turn off the sound system. How to remove the speaker grille and poke around? The grille itself does not seem to be loose.
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I have an '06 Camry and my check engine light came on so I thought I'd bring it to Auto Zone to have the guys run a free scan on it. They ran the scan and said that my alternator is overcharging and that if I didn't replace it, it would explode my battery and blow every bulb and fuse in the car. then brought it to Advance Auto Parts and they said it just had a vacuum leak. I'm not really sure who to believe..
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I have a 2006 Ford F250 Superduty 4x4 6.0L Diesel with an alternator/battery problem. We have charged the batteries (had them tested at auto zone), and replaced the alternator and still cannot get the batteries to keep a charge. I'm not talking a slow drain, with the ignition switch on for less than a minute it drains about 4 amps and the truck dies. We also noticed a trouble code "TBC fault" and discovered that was to do with the trailer brakes. Disconnected the trailer brake system (have been noticing a "check trailer" warning occasionally recently). What could be causing such a massive drain on the batteries?
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Driving home my radio quit working. I looked at the gauges and they all dropped to the left. The it looked like my lights quit working and then the truck just quit. All of this happened within 5 miles and 10 minutes. I jumped it and quit before I could even get going, it did start momentarily. Could not even get the gear shift into neutral; had to jump it to get that to happen.
It is 2006 F150 4x4, 5.4L engine and about 95,000 miles.
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I went to start my 2006 F350 6.0 this morning. 20 degrees outside. It nearly turned over, then it appeared that the batteries would not support another start - a slowing of the pre-engine start revving....
So I let it sit a while, now it won't start at all. When I try to start it, the dashboard flashes, clicking sounds occur and even after pulling out the keys, the needles on the gauges shake for a few seconds.
Is this more a battery issue or an alternator issue?
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My 2006 F250 has a single alternator and recently the charge light is on intermittently and I have watched output voltage fluctuate between 12.4 to 13.5 ... sometime a .3 volt bounce one way or another for no noticeable reason.
So rather than buy a new alternator, I would like to replace the voltage regulator and put in some new brushes.
What are part numbers that I need to pick up?
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OK...I ask that you bear with me while I explain my question/issue.
I bought a used 2006 F350 Super Duty diesel last October (Oct 2015) and it has about 124,500 miles on it now. Last week, the power cut out as I was driving home from running an errand. Jumped it and got it back to the house. Suspected the alternator as both batteries tested low (according to AutoZone). Purchased the 110amp alternator and after a few days...I was able to get the alternator installed. AutoZone charged the batteries back up.
Today, I was able to start the truck and drive it around the block in order to make sure everyone was okay - before I took it out on the streets. Got back to the driveway....ABS light comes on, radio shuts off, odometer light goes off, etc. I shut the engine off and let it sit for a minute. Try to start it back up...and nothing happens. Ended up disconnecting both batteries while I ponder the root cause of the issue.
Is it possible the 110amp alternator is not strong enough to handle the power requirements (and that's why the dashboard lights went out)? To the best of my knowledge, there's only 1 alternator. The only "extra" that's installed is the tow/haul package (which I haven't used yet). According to the Ford Parts web site - after I enter the VIN for my truck - the results show a 110amp alternator (heavy duty alternator).
Would exchanging the 110amp for the 140amp be the most logical place to start? Or is there something I missed as a replaced the alternator?
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One of my belts squeaks. I've tightened one of them as far as it goes I think. The other one is the one with the alternator. Do I tighten the pulley bolt on the alternator to add tension to that one?
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2006 sonata gl with 4-cyl engine. Car runs/feels fine. Installed HID kit a while ago (with harness) and no problem. Driving home late afternoon (with AC on hi) stopped on red light. Radio was on but NO HID lights on - then momentarily car stalls. Starts back up right a way and NO check engine light. Tried AC- works fine, turn the lights on (HID 35w slim balast), radio on - everything is fine.
My "suspect" is old battery (original!) and I think that for a short moment charging system (alternator) could not keep up/charge battery while car was idling with AC and radio on (hi load).
How long is original battery good for (5-6-...yrs)? Looked earlier at Everstart batteries (or was it Eveready brand?) made by Johnson. I could only find a few batteries but they were sitting on the shelf since last summer (sticker said made 07/2010 !). Are they any good?
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Usually in the morning after starting the car, when I put the car into reverse the car stalls. I start it up again and it works fine. It has been doing this for a few months. When I went to get oil change they said I needed to replace battery so I did. Problem is still there. It has done this twice when I try to take off from a red light. I have no check engine lights either. My car has 105,000 miles but cannot really afford to buy a new car at the moment.
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I have an 09 Sonata V6 3.3 W/ 13,000 miles.(yes) While driving ESC & CEL lights come on and car stalls. Pull over and it restarts. May do it one more time, or six times. Dealer gets no codes. They called Hyudai and they said that the ABS control module is not communicating and that why no codes. No ABS light on ever. Cost is 2,300 parts & labor! A lot of people have ESC & CEL lights come on but car doesn't stall.
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I have an 2006 GLS 3.3 with 26,700 miles on it, any time I turn the A/C on the temp gauge shoots all the way up to the red. When I turn the A/C off it drops fast right back down to the middle. No radiator leaks, my coolant level is great in the reservoir, and I already looks and my radiator fan turns on anytime I turn the A/C on. I live in AZ and it's been 100+ outside and going to stay that way for the next few months. What might be causing this. Bad ground? Bad temp sensor?
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So last summer I had the AC recharged. Worked great. I only ran the AC about twice over the winter to lub the seals (about 30 sec) prob not long enough but anyway.
I used the AC this month a couple of times briefly and it seemed to work just as well but today I get NOTHING except hot air. I cleaned the cabin filter, it sounds like the compressor comes on cause I know it makes that kick sound a few secs after hitting the AC button which illuminates. I took a quick look around but didn't see any leaks. fuse looked ok. I noticed the Low pressure line is wrapped.. do i have to take that off to check for leaks?
Does this sound like the refrigerant is low again after only like 6 months. If it worked great last week now nothing does that seem like the issue? Thinking of just filling up from autozone myself. I've also have a bad BCM with intermittent light/dash/window issues which arises in heat for past 2 years.
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Just brought my 06 3.3l into the dealer and they said the oil pan is not covered under warranty. It's clearly where my issue is - is it hard to change this oil pan on an automatic?
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