Sonata NF (2006-10) :: Oil Pump Chain Position?
Jul 5, 2011
I had an oil pump failure in 1 2.4 L Sonata, 2006. I am ready to install the new oil pump balance shaft unit but cannot find where the timing marks on the pump pulley and crank should be? The service manual I bought simply says the correct position is critical. Any position or a simple diagram or link? It is a chain drive pump.
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My son's 2007 Hyundai Sonata had an engine noise that was eventually diagnosed as bad timing chain tensioners. However, one Hyundai dealer repeatedly denied the problem, so it was 8 months before another Hyundai dealer admitted it and changed the tensioners. A couple of months later, the engine light and oil light were on and he was told he needed a new oil pump. By this time, the warranty had expired and he had to pay for the new oil pump and eventually a new engine. My question is this: Could the failure of the oil pump have had anything to do with the timing chain tensioner problem?
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I bought a 2006 Passat 2 years ago in august. Certified pre-owned around 37k miles. Had no problems. 2 weeks ago I started the car and it sounded louder than normal. Got up to 25 mph and the engine oil pressure light came on. I got the car towed to linden NJ VW. They said the chain for the oil pump broke and was lying in my oil pan. Oh, and I am 21 miles past my warranty! they said it would cost around $3000 to fix. So I started calling people, vwoa and the place I bought the car. Now they made me round up all my old service info. But I am waiting for the service manager to get back On Tues so he can review it before they break down the engine to figure out why the chain broke( because no one can believe that the chain just broke ). Based on what they find they said they "may" contribute "some" money!!
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Changing timing chain tensioner? Mine is making the rattling noise on startup. Tried searching one internet for any DIY's out there. Haven't really found any good ones.
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The car has a rattling sound on start up and I read here that is the timing chain tensioner. The quotes for fixing it has been huge(from 900-2000 just for labor).
And I changed front struts and had Monroe put on the car, the ride is very soft and a bit bouncy. I had a 2004 Altima and the ride was very stiff and I loved it. By the way, the car is a 2006 V6 with 111000miles.
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Yesterday i went to mechanic and changed Timing chain tensioners, with chains and all guides. But still have 2 second voice on startup, once oil pressure lights off everything fine. I paid heavy price on parts and labour but very disappointed after hear same noise again today morning which i was listening from one year purchase of this car... Sonata 3.3l v6 ....
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My 2006 2.4l Sonata automatic has just past the 100000km mark and developed a rattle on start-up. Opened it up and the chain has stretched beyond limit of the tensioner and has destroyed the adjacent oil spray nozzle that sprays oil on the sprocket.
This should be a lifetime item? No abnormal usage, normal city driving, all services done, never run low on oil-strange or not. Why this has happened.
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So my car has had the two cam position sensor codes for awhile..and it had a cheddar/chain noise when you first start it up and at 1000-1500 rpms anything past that it would go away. also car has been very very sluggish. and horrible on gas. so im guessing it may have skipped time or the chains were really stretched but something just was not right..
So I bought everything to do the timing chains and tore it done yesterday and this is what i found.
intermediate shaft gear is done....both cams off just a little ...no interference ...
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The lock on the rear driver side door doesn't work, it stuck on lock position and it won't open with the remote. You can't even turn the lock by hand from inside. It's like it's jammed or something. The rear passenger door lock was broken a while ago, it was making a nasty noise but still working so I had it changed but this one just stopped working.
How am I gonna fix that. I was thinking in order to fix the lock, they have to remove the door panel first, and to remove the door panel the door should be open to get to the screws. Is it gonna be stock for ever ?
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I have been getting a P0011 error code. Changed the OCV but the code continues. I'm going to try replacing the CMPS but am not quite sure of the location on the 2007 Sonata GLS. Looking for any pics of the location or a description?
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I purchased a 2007 Sonata with the 3.3L about six months ago. I really like the car, it has a lot of good features and lots of power; however, I am starting to have problems with the car. On accelerating from a stopped position the car almost quits (hesitates severely) and then picks up and goes on normally. Also, between 40 and 50 mph the car starts to jerk pretty hard for a few seconds and then it straightens out and runs normally again; it will do this repeatedly if it is kept between 40 and 50 mph.
When this first started happening the CEL would come on randomly and stay on for a day or two and then go off. While the CEL was on I took it to Autozone and had them pull the code, they said it was the crankshaft position sensor. Well based on the symptoms the diagnosis made sense. I replaced the sensor and the car seemed to be running normally on the 30 minute test drive. The next day my wife drove to work and she said the same symptoms had come back. It has been several weeks since I replaced the sensor and the CEL has not come back on. I have seen several postings about the spark plugs and wires and that is my next step. BTW the car has 94k miles.
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06 sonata 3.3 L V6. Light has been on for a month or two...took it in to mechanic yesterday and it's a camshaft position sensor error...it makes total sense to me now because my cars been starting hard, seems like it gets hotter then usual...and had a "clicking" noise for about 10 mins, then gradually goes away. it takes a few extra cranks now to start the engine unless it was already fired up.
Also does a jerk once and a while around 40 km/h. I looked online and those seem to all be symptoms of a failed camshaft position sensor (CMP). Would those symptoms seem about right? Am I okay to drive slowly for the weekend before I get the new sensor installed? The mechanic didn't seem to worries about me driving for just the weekend...but it's worrying me a bit...
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I am able to operate my power drivers seat in all position except for reverse. My wife was the last one to drive and the seat is stuck in almost the full forward position. I can move the seat forward but not in reverse.
I've already looked under the seat for blockages along the railing and didn't see anything. I would try to remove the seat, but its positioned too far forward to access where I think the bolts would be. I did notice one unconnected wiring harness coming up from the floor under the seat, but it looks like it doesn't go to anything. Maybe its for models with heated seats or something because I don't have heated seats. My car by the way is a 2009 sonata GLS.
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I just replaced the timing chain and water pump on my 1999 K1500 5.7L. After spending several evenings and a few early mornings working on it, I get everything back together and go to start it up. It starts then immediately dies. After double checking that the CKP sensor, two plugs on breather, and a/c and alternator wires (these are all that I unplugged) are connected I try in one more time before coming in to work today.
Timing chain was installed with No. 1 at TDC and mark on cam at 12 o'clock position as stated in the Haynes manual for the truck. I did not remove or even touch the distributor since replacing the intake gaskets ~3 years ago. Will check to see if any codes are showing in the morning when I have my laptop at home.
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I have a problem with my sonata NF 2006 the check engine light turn on like 2 days ago and give me the p2128 code say Accelerator pedal Position Circuit - High Input something like that i cheek all the cable off the throttle body to the ecu and i don't see any cable broken how I can check the accelerator pedal sensor? I see in one page a texting the sensor whit a multi miter but was for santa fe and the cable don't have the same colors . I need the accelerator pedal cable diagram and i don't have it ....
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My check engine light came on the other day, and I went to Autozone to have the code read. Of course, that indicated the camshaft position sensor was detecting a fault. I read through all the posts relating to the fault, headed up to my local Hyundai dealer, and picked up the oil flow control valve for about $50 plus tax. While I was there, I figured I might as well have them do an oil change, since it was way past due. No point in putting in a new part with dirty oil..right? They did the oil change, washed the car and I was ready to roll. My plan was to replace the part myself, but magically, the check engine light has not come back on since.
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I am trying to replace a water pump on a 2006 Hyundai Sonata, 3.3L, V6. But I hit a snag. I have removed the drivebelt but I can't get the water pump pulley off due to clearance. The water pump pulley is hitting the engine mounting bracket. All the manuals said I could remove the water pump pulley and the water pump and made no mention of removing the engine mounting brackets. I was wondering if there was a way to remove the water pump pulley, and the water pump, without dropping the engine and removing the engine mounts? If I do have to remove the engine mounts, do I need to remove the mounting brackets on both sides?
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My 06 Sonata will not start. I have checked the spark plugs, and they are not fouled and I do get a spark. I then checked the fuel pump, and I am not getting power to the pump. I checked the F/Pump fuse (fuse #8 ,20A), and it is OK, and the relay was checked, and OK as well.
Is there some sort of inertia or fuel cut off switch in case of accidents. The car did sit for 4 months and had a hard time starting, but did start and drove for 30 miles and ran fine., Would not restart after getting out of the store.
Where should I start looking now?? Am I missing something, there should be 12 at the pump when the key is on, correct??
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I recently replaced the harmonic balancer on my 06 sonata v6.... the rubber was separating from the pulley. About 2 days later, i notice the power steering pump whining, so i checked the fluid and it was at the correct level. I have 98k miles, is it safe to assume i just need to change the power steering pump, is it possible anything else could be causing this problem? I doubt it is related to the crank pulley change, probably more a coincidence but wanted some opinions. Also, if it is the power steering pump.
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I'm fixing a 2007 Sonata that was in a front end collision, I've replaced everything that was ruined in the wreck (as far as I know), and also replaced the SRS control module, impact sensors, and also the airbag. The car starts with starting fluid and there isn't any damage to the engine so I'm not concerned with something being wrong with that, but the fuel pump won't prime and before the wreck it drove fine. So what could impede the fuel pump from priming? I've checked the wires and they're not sending power to the fuel pump so I feel like the pump should still be fine, it's just it's not getting power. What could cause this?
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My Hyundai is giving me a major headache. I bought a 2009 sonata used a few months back. Not long after I got it, I was having issues with it jerking around 20 mph. Sometimes, it would have a few issues with it jerking some when I was taking off. This was only right after the car was started. I took it to a local Aamco. The guy told me that it was a 2-1 downshift pump. He "relearned" the transmission and the problem went away. Now, it is back. At the time, he did some research and thought it may stem from a calibration update they had issued. He didn't have the Hyundai software to try that fix.
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