Sonata NF (2006-10) :: No Power To Door / Trunk Lock Unless Key Is On
Dec 31, 2016
Ok so this started with the ignition key cylinder locking and refusing to turn. Some tri-flow, patience and judicious taps of a hammer fixed that issue, but not before i pried apart the plastic cap that keeps the little spring loaded plunger in place that actuates the ding ding when the key is inserted to the ignition. This little plunger has a couple of contacts and is wired to the little green bulb that illuminates the ring around the ignition key. Everything was just fine until i caused an arc between the exposed contacts and the side of the ignition cylinder.
Now neither the fob nor the door switch will lock or unlock the doors or the trunk unless the key is in the 'on' position. It should be hot at all times. What have I shorted out? I checked all the fuses and of course they are fine. My nightmare is that i have messed up an expensive module. I did find the plastic cap and plunger hiding under and behind the heat ducts to the rear seats and put that back together, so there are no exposed contacts, but the damage has been done.
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I have a 2007 4 door Sonata, and the Driver door power door lock does not always function. It make a noise like it is working, but most of the time it does not lock or unlock the door. The other doors work fine, and I need to manually lock and unlock the driver door with the key. I'm told that the problem is probably the door lock motor. Looking for some detailed instructions on how to remove and replace this motor?
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How to disable the trunk release on the driver's side door? If I lock the trunk, the fob trunk release is also disabled.
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I'm looking to replace my drivers side door lock actuator. Looking for detailed photos explaining the process?
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I have a 2007 GLS Sonata. And suddenly when I lock my doors with the remote, the driver door wont lock but every other door will lock. Is it a fuse?
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The lock on the rear driver side door doesn't work, it stuck on lock position and it won't open with the remote. You can't even turn the lock by hand from inside. It's like it's jammed or something. The rear passenger door lock was broken a while ago, it was making a nasty noise but still working so I had it changed but this one just stopped working.
How am I gonna fix that. I was thinking in order to fix the lock, they have to remove the door panel first, and to remove the door panel the door should be open to get to the screws. Is it gonna be stock for ever ?
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Driver's power door lock will sometimes not lock with remote when outside car. The lock button will only move part way towards being locked but not enough to lock the door. The same is true when the inside master lock is pressed to lock all doors. The driver's door lock will only move part way. When returning to car, remote will unlock all doors except driver's door. This happens about half the time. i.e sometimes the remote will lock/unlock ALL doors and sometimes all doors except the driver's door.
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The little piece that flips when you lock the doors (you know what I mean, it is orange when it's open) has been acting up on my 06 Sonata. If you move it by hand it's fine (the door locks and unlocks) but when you use the fob and lock or unlock the doors, sometimes this one just doesn't move.
It looks like it wants to go, but doesn't. If you press lock and unlock again, it opens. on occasion.
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I just purchased this really nice high milage '07 Sonata and am working on some "minor" issues:
The Driver's Door lock actuator is not working (all others are fine using the interior lock/unlock switch and the key when used in the driver's door lock).
I have researched the issue on this site and want to confirm what appears to be a nasty replacement scenario.
1st, can a new actuator be found for less than $70.00+-?
2nd, are the acuators specific for each door, left and right doors, or all interchangeable? I ask because I might go for a used one.
3rd, is the complete dismantleling of the door and window actually necessary? Seems unbelievable especially for such a common problem. But of course the engineers never expected it to be a "common" failure.
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I am now having my first issue with my car in that the rear drivers side door lock won't always work.
After using the search function, it seems replacing the door lock actuator/solenoid solves this problem, but I could only find a diagram showing how to get at it on the drivers front door, not a rear door.
Looking for a diagram on how to do this, or info on it?
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2006 Sonata GLS. When I lock/unlock door with keyfob, it beeps, but doors or trunks will not open/close. When I put key in ignition and either start or turn to on, I can press keyfob and lock/unlock doors and unlock trunk. Manual trunk release in drivers foot area does nothing unless car is on. Checked all fuses (passenger driver compartment and under hood). What is the exact fuse to focus on, or if this could be some other issue ? BCM ?
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On my passat the door lock and unlock buttons only work for the trunk and my key fob will arm and disarm the factory system as well as pop the trunk. I looked at all fuses and relays but everything is checking out....
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I think the actuator for my driver's rear door is on the fritz. Basically it fails to lock/unlock automatically like the other three do. The other three work fine - to include the passenger rear door.
Again - if I manually push the lock it works as it should (both lock and unlock) - but it will not unlock with the FOB. I removed the door panel and everything looks good - I can't for the life of me figure out how to remove the inner (black) panel so I can get to the actuator.
I can hear the actuator trying to unlock it some times - I can hear a vibration coming from the door when it tries. But again - the passenger rear works fine. I think the biggest thing I need to do now is to get behind the inner door module (black trim) to see what is going on - but I can't figure out how.
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The power locks on the front right door started making a ugly sound. I disassembled everything including the actual electric actuator and found that the problem is caused because one of the gears that got a teeth broken.
Now, I forgot to take a picture before I put it all together, but it was white gear about one inch in size with a little square thingy in one side that moves the actual lock.
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I have a 2007 GS 350 in which the electronic lock that you push on the outside of the trunk to open the trunk has gotten capricious because its external rubber has deteriorated. So I want to change it. The replacement part is readily available at the dealer and the parts guy said it is apparently not complicated to replace. But before doing that I need to remove the carpet padding on the inside of the trunk lid so as to get to the part to replace.
How to do that? There are what look like plastic screws holding the carpet lining in place but unscrewing does not seem to looses them. I removed one by pulling hard on it. Don't want to do the same to the rest in case that is wrong.
Also, it looks like the safety unlock handle and actual lock are obstacles to removing this lining. Do instructions exist somewhere for how to remove this carpet lining off the trunk lid?
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I have a 2008 Camry Hybrid with about 125k miles. A few thousand miles ago the door locks have been displaying portions of the following issues and then finally ended up with all these issues described:
Driver door lock: (OK)
- Opening door when in locked state by using latch, works
- Manually toggling lock/unlock on the door works
- Power door lock switch locks and unlocks door
Front passenger door lock: (Issue)
- Opening door when in locked state by using latch, works
- Power door lock switch on this door or driver door, does NOT lock/unlock door
- Manually toggling lock/unlock on the door works
Rear right door lock: (Intermittent Issue)
- Opening door when in locked state by using latch, works
- Power door lock switch on driver and passenger doors intermittently fail to lock/unlock this door
- Manually toggling lock/unlock on the door works
Rear left door lock: (Issue)
- Opening door when in locked state by using latch, does NOT open the door
- Power door lock switch on driver and passenger door does NOT lock/unlock this door
- Manually toggling lock/unlock on the door works
What specific parts would need to be replaced?
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I now have 2 doors (driver and left rear doors) that have sluggish power door locks. They sometimes work, but always have energy when operated.
I'm thinking that maybe it's a connector with resistance and causing a voltage drop since it's on both doors on the same side of the car.
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2011 Sonata GLS 2.4 82K miles
Driver door lock was stuck in lock position. key fob and interior button would not unlock driver door. had to force it open and now the door will not lock at all. tried key fob, buttons, and even inserting key and manually locking but nothing locks the door. Interior lock/unlock button next to handle moves freely now.
Is this the door latch assembly, the handle itself, or something else?
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I got in my 2011 Sonata today to go to work and my driver side door won't lock either electrically or manually. The other 3 doors lock and unlock just fine. I'm really concerned because I can't even lock it manually by pressing the lock in. How to fix this anomaly?
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I have a 2011 Avalon. The power door locks will all lock with the door button and the remote key. The problem is that only the drivers door will unlock with either method, what a pain.
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I bought used, and the ignition key will not open up the trunk. Do I need a separate key for that?
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