Sonata NF (2006-10) :: Need To Be Cranked Several Times To Start
Oct 28, 2013
About a month ago, fuel pump was replaced by repair shop due to car will not start at all. Car seems to be working fine after the work done for about 3 weeks. One day of last week, car will not start immediately, it had to be cranked a couple times so it can start. It happens all the time when i leave the car off more than 5-10 minutes. If I stop the car and start right after, it starts quickly. Anyway I called the same repair shop, they told me battery may be started dying. I measured Voltage on the battery during cranking it goes down to 11V and goes back up to 12.9V after car starts. I have replaced the battery with the new one for precautionary.That did not fix the problem.
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Woke up to go to class, car cranked normally but just won't start up. I put gas in it from our lawnmower shed (regular unleaded) but I know it wasn't that empty... what gives? It's making the normal noise it does when you go to start the engine but it just won't stay running/turn over?
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Had a hot no start going, found dummy plug issue, replaced dummy plugs. While in there I cleaned the injectors (passenger side only) and put back together. Cranked multiple times, had to recharge batteries a few times as it is in the 10 - 20 degree temp range. No joy on re-start following the work.
Numbers I'm getting are:
KOEO With ICP connected:
ICP - 0
ICV - .07
IPR - 14.8
While cranking
ICP - eventually builds to 400+-
ICV - eventually increases to .13
IPR - maxed at 84.7
ICV too low so...
After disconnecting ICP
KOEO
ICP - 0
ICV - 0 (disconnected)
IPR - 14.8
While cranking
ICP - up to 1693
IPR - to 65.5
Still no start.
Ran through FICM check and the numbers are fine - 48 key on, 47 key during buzz, 47-48 while cranking.
I do get oil pressure registering on the dash gauge.
Fuel is in the filter housing
Oil filter housing refills with oil as expected when cranking
Only code is the P2285 once the ICP is disconnected
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I had a problem recently with my '11 SE. It only did it once and hasn't done it since. I pushed the START button and the engine cranked over but it never started. I let it crank for about 5 seconds before I pushed the switch again to make it stop. The next time I pushed the START button the engine started.
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After a long hour working day, B6 could not start in company's parking lot. The temperature is not cold, the battery is not dead, has plenty gas in the tank. The starter cranked but couldn't start the engine. What should I try? Change the starter? if i need parts, I will grab from store and try to fix it in parking lot. if not, I have to tow it to dealer tomorrow.
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When I start my camry (06 v6) the check engine light flashes 6 times then goes off. I brought it to auto zone this morning to have the code read and they said it wasn't throwing anything. Car seems to be running fine, haven't done anything to it in the past few weeks other than open and close the hood once or twice.
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I have a 2009 Accent. Last year I started to have a hard start issue, very intermittent. It eventually got worse this year.
During the cold, it was never an issue, but during the summer damp or rainy days it occurred quite frequently.
It would turn over, but never start. If I pressed the gas peddle while starting it up, it usually would start the 2nd or 3rd time.
I changed the usual start up components; plugs, ignition coils, cam shaft position sensor, crankshaft sensor, and cleaned the throttle body.
None of those changes worked for the startup. When I removed my throttle body to fully clean it again, I noticed there was an extra air channel into the engine from the TB. Following this, I found the ISCA.
Removing, taking apart, and cleaning the idle speed control actuator seemed to have fixed the issue. It was so caked up with carbon deposit/build up, it couldn't fully rotate.
I used the throttle body cleaner to clean it out and then it began to spin freely (I removed it from the black sensor part first).
Since putting it back altogether, I haven't had a start up issue since.
Here are the notes from the service manual .....
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Had an odd situation earlier tonight. The starter cranked normally but the engine wouldn't actually start. I let it go for 10 seconds and hit the button again to make it stop in order to protect the battery. A few seconds later, I tried and it fired right up without a hitch. The MIL never came on so no codes most likely.
Car has 17k on it. 2013 2.0
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Camry 06 4cyl with 100k automatic. I have replaced spark plugs, cleaned the MAF with Maf cleaner, Changed air filter, changed cabin air filter, transmission flush, engine oil to synthetic 5w30, used seafoam in the fuel tank and the intake per sticky.
We have owned the car for 3 weeks now. We live in Orlando, FL so the lowest temp we get in the mornings is 57 some days during winter times. The car never idled high at 2000 rpms since we owned it. I never had a car that idles that high on cold start up but my other vehicles idle at 1200 rpms on cold start up.
It idles at 2k for like 3 mins and then drops back to 800 rpm which is seems like normal operation of cold start up. I have read mixed reviews about been normal or not. Most of this reviews are in really cold temps not like the ones here in FL.
So does this appear to be normal? My wife called me today telling me the car did this. She said it was that cold this morning. I haven't got a chance to read the manual and see if there is a note there since she is at work.
I just need to know if it is normal even in hotter temps like FL. The car drives fine and no check engine light. Stock engine as far as we know.
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I have a 2006 Prius with 115,000 miles that I've been having some problems with recently. Over the past 2 months the car wouldn't start 3 times. Once I jump it it runs fine for 2-3 weeks. This morning it happened again. Whole looking back on it every time seems it happen when the car doesn't run very long before I shut it off again.
Took it by dealer today and to ask them and setup a appointment. They think I have a battery going dead and he quoted it as $220 to replace. When I went to leave dealer the flashers blinked 2-3 times before it finally started. Done same thing when I got home. I also noticed when I locked the door that the red key light stayed on, instead of normal blinking. Went back out about 10 minutes later and it was blinking as normal.
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Went to start the wife's car this afternoon and it wouldn't turn over. Battery was fine and it cranked but would no start. I pulled one of the plugs to check for spark and i had spark on that plug.
It pretty much turned over when I told the wife to turn the key. I put the plug back in and it started right up. So what the heck was the deal here. I drove it around the block, restarted a couple times and all seems fine.
Same gas that was in there for the last several days. Was a little colder this morning than it has been but nothing extreme. The car was last driven 2 days ago, so it isn't like it sat for a long period. Maybe some water in the gas made its way into the lines and finally reared its ugly head?
From my research, the fuel filter appears to be part of the fuel pump and isn't normally serviced. What it could have been and what to check if and when this happens again? The local Autozone will rent me a fuel pressure tester but unless it happens again, I don't think its worth renting it now that its running again.
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I got this problem for 10 days and by the time to take my car to the auto shop it turned out that now I cannot start the engine at all. I started to hear that the starter is still running for a second or two after I switch on the engine but I was busy and was not able to leave the car for a check. Well, this morning the car gave up and refused to start at all.
Before I blame the starter I was thinking about the ignition lock although I didn't noticed anything problematic with it. I think that the battery is OK since I didn't lost the radio and I still can operate the windows as well.
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Got in the car today, 2002 SC430, turned the key, car cranked and cranked but no start. I'm guessing I'm not getting fuel. How do I troubleshoot?
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My 1992 buick regal 3.8l initially cranked fine but did not start. I went to crank again and starter turned very slowly and finally just clicked got new battery and still same slow finally jumped it and got it to somehow start took it to shop they went to replace starter and told me that a weight had fallen off my flywheel/flexplate and lodged in starter so i agreed to let them replace flywheel starter 2 days later still in shop does this sound reasonable?
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Came out of the building center yesterday after about ten minutes, and the van wouldn't start. Just cranked and cranked.
So I fired up Torque Pro and the HPO only got to 156.8psi. The idiot gauge came up to where it should be.
The dipstick looks good. I unhooked the ICP sensor and still no go. Reconnected.....
So I called a tow... after It cooled down.(75*F water) I tried again and got up to 295psi, but still not enough to start.
At this point I know I have recent injectors and updated Plug& pipe on the passenger side, a new IPR, and (another) new STC fitting.
I will get the air to it, and investigate, but at this point,I am leaning towards the Dummy Plug on the drivers side. Or maybe I am just hopeful because the internet says that one can remove the VC on that side fairly easily.....(Van Body)
However I did recently(2K miles/??) have the engine apart to get at the HPOP and STC leak issue I had. In the event of a possible stuck IPR- what would be the symptoms during an air test? No change with power applied? Or should I just remove and inspect?
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Went to start my truck this morning and when I turned it over it barely cranked once. I cleaned the connections on the battery and checked fuses, everything checks out fine. I am not very familiar with Ford trucks. The check engine light doesn't come on until after I try to turn it over.
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This morning was cold. Went to start and it slowly cranked but no start. Tried jumping but again slow crank and no start. Thinking battery charged and tested and it's fully charged. Reinstalled and nothing.
No click.
No crank.
Nothing.
So thinking now. Start with relay.
Then starter solenoid.
Then starter?
Could it be a column thing? Not fully in park or should I try in neutral? Have another thread needing a fuse diagram for inside and the box under the hood.
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I just bought a 2002 Jetta 2.0L with automatic trans and about 98000 miles on the odometer.It drove fine on a short test drive. It drove fine on a 45 min drive home after which I parked it for a short while (about an 60-90 mins.) Then I tried to restart it . It cranked fine but would not start. After 3 or 4 attempts I let it rest for a min and then it started. And the CEL came on.
This was a few days ago. Today I finally got a chance to scan it with these results:
VCDS Version: Release 15.7.3 Running on Windows 7 x86
[URL] .....
Address 01: Engine Labels: 06A-906-032-AVH.lbl
Control Module Part Number: 06A 906 032 FR
Component and/or Version: 2.0l R4/2V G 4070
Software Coding: 00003
[Code] ....
I'm new to MK4's and I'm at a bit of a loss as to where to start. It looks to me like there's a problem with both the fuel pump relay and the crank sensor. But what to make of all the short to ground codes. Could they be caused by a bad fuel pump relay?
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This morning I got to the bottom of my driveway and realized I forgot my tea. Turned off the engine and walked up to the house for the tea. When I turned over the engine it didn't start but cranked. Sputtered on the second attempt and died. Started on the third attempt, sputtered and then smoothed out and all was normal. What the heck goes on here? This happens to varying degrees maybe 6 or 7 times a year.
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I have a 2001 ford F150 with a 5.4 2WD, with a starting problem. Last Friday I went to leave work the truck cranked but did not start, turned the key off and tried again same thing, on the third try it started. Drove it home 30 miles with one stop on the way, restarted just fine. At home in the driveway I restarted it 5 times without a problem so I was thinking it was just a glitch. Did not drive the truck all weekend thinking the problem was fixed.
Monday morning leave for work and everything was fine, went to start the truck in the afternoon and the same problem as listed above (3 or 4 tries and it started). It home again in the driveway restarts every time. I do not have any check engine light on but I thought I would still plug in my code reader NO CODE. Where to start troubling shooting this problem?
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This morning I went out to start my truck. It cranked for about 15 seconds with no start. I set my TorquePro to monitor the IPR% and cranked again for about 10 seconds. The IPR% was about 83.7% with no start again. I went inside and searched for "crank no start" threads to see what else I needed to look at. I went back out and added HPOP to the TorquePro. Cranked for about 5 seconds, thinking I would get no start again, but it fired up. After start I was getting about 27% on the IPR and abour 537 on the HPOP. Drove to work with no problem.
Could this just be a fluke, or do I need to be concerned about it? I have a road trip coming up to Tennessee on Thursday. I did standpipes, dummy plugs, STC fittings, EGR delete, new oil cooler and upgrade to stainless steel IPR screen about a year ago.
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