2008 Sonata Limited.
When I accelerate from a stop there is a metallic rattling in the engine compartment. My best guess is that it is near the middle and near the firewall. Can't see much under the hood in this area.
The rattling stops after about 60km/h or so and does not happen at all during cruising otherwise.
I have a 2006 Sonata GL, 2.4L, manual transmission, with about 130K miles. It has recently developed a knocking noise. The noise sounds metallic.
Some data: timing chain, guides, tensioner are all new, the noise is not coming from there.
Compression tests on the 4 cylinders came back with 200, 200, 180, and 200 psi readings. Tests were performed 3 different times, same gauge, all numbers came back the same.
The noise comes on only under acceleration (gas is supplied), and even then it's not consistent. For example, accelerating at 2500 rpm will make the noise, but the noise will go away at, say, 3000 rpm, while accelerating. Then again, the same thing can happen at 3200 rpm: accelerating will cause the noise, but up to a point, beyond which the noise goes away.The noise is not present at idle. I can always make the noise heard, just not consistently at the same rpm range.
I ran the engine with one spark plug disconnected at a time: the noise goes away when the #3 cylinder spark is disconnected.
Opinions vary: wrist pin, piston slap, rod bearing, etc.
Any tests I could run to narrow the problem? It has been difficult to pinpoint where the noise is coming from with a stethoscope...
Oil changes have been very regular (3.5K), using Mobil 1. Nevertheless, it has been burning oil.
I have an 08 Sonata Limited. About a 3 months ago, a noise began appearing on the driver side, sounding like it was coming from the engine compartment, and it has become steadily worse.
Today, I am learned how to replicate the sound, but I cannot locate where it is coming from. Here is the scenario:
The sound is a squeaking, like 2 pieces of styrofoam being rubbed together. The sound comes and goes. The engine must be in Drive or Reverse, and under load, meaning the driver side tire must be on the ground. If I jack the car up so that the drivers side wheel is off the ground, and put it in D and let the tire turn freely the noise does not occur. The car does not need to be moving for the sound to occur; in fact, it sounds worse when the car is at rest.
Today, I jacked the car up and took off the drivers side front tire to see if I could identify the source of the noise. Later, I put the tire back on the hub, and without lowering the car, started to tighten the lug nuts. When, I tightened the nuts with a wrench, I began to slightly turn the axle and shift the location of the engine and lift it, and I heard the squeak! Obviously, the car was turned off, so I was able to repeatedly shake the wrench and slightly turn the wheel, which shook the engine, and repeat the squeak each time. I lowered the car and jacked up the passenger front side of the car and did the same thing; I was unable to get the sound to occur.
I could now identify the direction of the sound, and it was coming from under the air filter chamber. I tried removing the air filter box, but it is held in place by a rubber plug and the air intake tube. Unable to remove the box, I could not see exactly where the noise was coming from.
Is there a motor mount under the air intake box, or is there another part that may shift over time and begin to make this noise? My best guess is that when the car is in Drive and under load, the engine vibrations are causing something to make a squeaking sound.
Any way, my 2007 Sonata with 57,000 miles just developed a whining noise on the right side of the engine compartment. It sounds like it is concurrent with RPM and I thought it might be the alternator, the drive belt or some pulley. I have even seen on the general internet that some others had a bad oil filter. To me, the noise seems to be coming from the alternator area. It is a relatively high pitched noise that almost sounds like an electric motor. Would love to get it fixed. I am nearing the 60,000 max on replacement from certain items and do not know if the alternator is covered.
View 4 RepliesI replaced my fuel filter on my 2003 2.4L toyota tacoma 2wd. 65k miles. At the same time I checked the valves. No valve adjustment needed. Then i started hearing 4 to 6 rapid metallic clicks from the engine compartment when I start the engine cold. Clicking lasts 1 to 2 seconds. Sometimes happens when engine warm. This fuel filter is not original equipment.
View 1 RepliesSo on my new 2.0T Sonata I noticed a brief metallic rattle in the 2K-3K RPM range when you rev the throttle. I was very concerned.
The sales rep said it may be the heat shielding that is coming lose. He was concerned and said to bring it back when Service is open.
I just got back from the dealer: The service manager didn't know what it was but his tech said it was part of the turbo system, it's a 1/4 inch bar (parallel with the bumper) you can plainly see between the firewall and engine. He said what it did but I forgot to take notes.
I listened to another 2.0 Turbo Sonata on the lot and it has the exact same rattle when rev'd.
I have a 2010 Sonata V6 that I bought new. It has a little less than 50K on it. I tried to start it today and it made a terrible noise then died seconds later. I popped the hood and then started it again and the engine was shaking violently in the engine compartment and making a terrible knocking noise. I had driven it 12 hours earlier and it ran fine. I called a tow truck and had it taken to the dealer but if I know my dealer, since it is Sunday they probably wont get to it until Tuesday. Also, this car has had the signature V6 valve cover leak that has been fixed 3 times. I noticed it was leaking again about a month ago and I have just been checking the oil and adding it as it needs it. I dont think the engine ran out of oil because I checked it before the tow truck came and it was between low and full.
View 2 RepliesJust purchased a pristine 2011 GLS with very low mileage. The car is essentially mint (garaged + well cared for by previous owner), but has one, occasionally noticeable issue: once warmed up, a very loud metallic buzz/rattle noise is heard from the rear of the car, particularly under low RPM acceleration. I've had many cars in the past with similar noises, which all turned out to be loose heat-shields at various locations along the exhaust systems. With this in mind, I've felt all the heat-shields on my "new" car, and they all seem to be securely in place - though some (especially the rear one over the muffler) seem to be minimally supported by design, and could potentially be resonating with certain exhaust frequencies.
View 17 RepliesI have a 2007 Sonata Platinum Edition with a V6. I changed the battery in December 2015 and the car has been sitting since then waiting for my niece to buy it. I haven't driven it since the battery install until today. The problem is although the car started easily I noticed the Check Engine Lite is now on and so is the ESC Off light. No matter what I do the ESC on off button it still says ESC Off. So I thought I'd take it for a ride only to find out that the engine won't run much faster than an idle. Floor the gas pedal in drive or reverse and nothing happens except the car moves very slowly. Just a little faster than it would if you put your car in gear but didn't give it any gas.
View 3 RepliesMy Hyundai Sonata has been the dealer twice so far and the problem hasn't been fixed yet. Once in a while when I accelerate quickly the check engine light comes on and the esc light comes on and the car goes into a limp power mode or fail safe mode and the engine won't rev above 2000 rpm until I turn the car off and back on again.
Both times I have had the car to the dealer the Scan Code "P2138 Throttle Position Sense P2106 Elect Control forced limit power" Were found. They cleared the code drove car and it did not return.
This has now happened about 5 times, in the last year and each time after switching off the car it runs fine, and after about 5 starts the check engine light goes off.
Well this just happened again yesterday (just as I was about to blow off some kid in a Ford Taurus from a stop light) So I called my dealer (who has been very good thus far with my car) and told them about the problem happening again and that this time I want this sensor replaced, and not having the code cleared.
I picked up my 2012 limited Turbo last night but noticed there's a rattle of some sort when I accelerate around 2k rpm, it kind of sounds like a bunch of metals being shaken up. Is this normal? I am also trying to test for the left/right pull, but with all the bad roads here in the city its getting kinda tough.
View 11 RepliesFor the last couple days I have been hearing a rattle from somewhere in the engine compartment. It happens on low rpm in a very narrow range. For instance, accelerating gently off a stop it would come on and then stop. Sounds like a diesel engine. Happens when the car wasnt fully warmed up and seems to go away after a period of driving. Heat shield?
View 5 RepliesI have a '07 Sonata GLS with the 2.4-liter Theta engine and the 4-speed automatic. It has 52k miles on it and has always been serviced regularly. It's been a pretty decent car but is starting to feel a little tired, most notably the worn/bouncy suspension.
Anyway, the other day I was driving down the highway and gave it a little gas to pass a slower car. Doing 60 MPH it downshifted to 3rd (~2000 to ~3300 RPM) and I thought I heard a noise in the engine bay, but I wasn't sure. I ended up needing more power so put it to the floor and as it kicked down to 2nd at ~5000 RPM the rattly noise got a lot more pronounced. Driving around normally I don't hear it but any time I put it to the floor (merging/passing) I will hear the rattle. I can also hear it if I lock it in 2nd gear and give it full throttle up a hill at low speed, like you might do with a stick shift.
It seems like it only does it under load because if I rev it to ~4000 RPM in park in the driveway, there's no noise, even at full throttle. I know the V6s had tensioner issues but I haven't heard much about the 2.4s. I'm not super concerned as it is still under warranty but what might be wrong with it as this is my first Hyundai vehicle, especially in case the dealer can't replicate it.
Rattling noise in the belt area of the engine...
View 3 RepliesI have a 2001 Subaru outback. Recently I've noticed a rattle when I accelerate, especially when I take off from a dead stop. I sounds like it's coming from the front wheel area. It also occurs sometimes when making a turn and then accelerate. It almost sounds like an object in a box and someone is shaking the box-very noticeable.
View 3 RepliesI own a 2002 Camry XLE 4-cylinder with about 95,000 miles which is in excellent condition and well-maintained. Recently I began to hear a rattle, tapping or knocking sound apparently from the passenger side of the engine compartment (passengers agree with apparent location). It almost sounds like engine knocking, but the times it happens seem to rule that out. It could be some metal vibrating against something, but I can't hear it when I'm under the hood, and nothing appears loose. I've taken it to my trusted independent mechanic, but he couldn't duplicate the sound driving for 15-20 minutes on the freeway or see anything wrong when put on a lift. The sound doesn't occur all the time, of course; that'd be too easy.
The noise begins:
-after I've been driving 15 minutes or more
-after the car gets above 45-50 MPH, but when the noise finally begins, it will then occur down to as low as 30 MPH.
Last weekend I drove 1000 miles roundtrip on the freeway at 65-80 MPH; it didn't begin for 30 minutes, but continued most of the way to my destination (5.5 more hours), though it did seem to stop a few times. This week, my 20 minute drive to work, which has about 10 minutes on the freeway at 65, has not caused the noise to happen once.
Characteristics of the problem:
-the noise is not related to RPM; once it begins, it is about the same frequency and volume at 30 MPH as at 80 MPH
-it doesn't occur when in park or neutral and idling, even if the engine is revved, and even if the noise was just occurring on the freeway moments before
-it doesn't change when running over rough pavement or in turns
-it doesn't change when regular gas is replaced with premium (tried this last week to rule out engine knock, though the lack of RPM affecting it probably ruled that out already).
So it seems like it may be related to the speed of the car and perhaps the temperature of the engine or compartment. The hood latch appears to be holding tight with no play, the strut mounts were replaced 10K ago, and the wheel bearings check out fine.
2007 Touareg with 19",V6, with 10,700 miles
Problem: Noise or rattle in engine compartment, at low speed (less than 25miles/hour) on uneven pavement (not potholes). Can be replicated over and over.
The dealer acknowledge the noise and has tightened all suspension parts, greased all joints, replace front-right shock and bushings (for some reason the noise is more prevalent on Right side), put some sort of tool with sensors in different areas of the chassis to "hear" noise differences while driving to determine the culprit.
Description: To me, the noise sounds like there is something lose in either the engine compartment or the area where the wipers are located. Sort of like if there was something (plastic maybe) hitting the chassis (only at slow speeds - I cannot hear it when driving faster I guess because of engine and road noise). I have not been able to figure it out.
The noise was present only on another 2007 with 8K miles.
I have a 2007 Sonata, 2.4L 4cyl. and it is making some weird noise as of late. I have done some research and from what I have read it seems like it may be a bad engine mount. One thing to note is that the noise really only happens when the car is cold and hasn't warmed up yet or on a cold day.
Basically the best description is that the noise is a high-pitched rattle/vibration noise. The noise seems to match the vibrations of the engine but doesn't seem to get more intense if I rev the engine. The noise does get quieter if I put it in neutral but it is still there. The noise also happens even if the car is parked and off, and I do something like shut the door or trunk. I haven't gotten a chance to get in there and look under the hood myself to try...
I have 2011 Sonata Limited 2.4L I have a rattle that seems to come from the engine compartment near/thru the dash/driver area. I am getting pretty good at replicating the issue. When I accelerate or decelerate thru 1500 - 1700 rpm the rattel/vibration happens. If I can continue to keep the same rpm level the rattle remains. It tends to be even more frequent when the AC is on. I have had the dealer look at 2-3 times and they cannot seem to remedy the problem.
View 2 RepliesSo I'm at my wits end trying to locate (and fix) a loud, high frequency rattle noise inside the engine compartment.
It can be heard when applying the gas pedal a certain amount. In other words, I can "find" the noise and maintain it at a certain rpm.
The noise is coming from the back of the engine near the firewall. It feels and sounds like it's coming from the throttle body plate and vibrating the gas pedal. I cleaned the plate and it isn't loose.
The issue doesn't seem to be affecting engine performance.
The sound is noticeable while driving (under load). When in park, I can find an rpm where the throttle body seems to take a heavy wave of vibration from the engine and hum (but not nearly as loud as while driving). Issue existed before I put on new motor mounts, and still persists after replacing all 4 (although the vibration and noise are reduced).
I have been experiencing a slight hesitation when I accelerate from a stop. It almost feels like its going to stall for a brief second then it picks up and accelerates normal until I'm at a complete stop again. I have the 2016 sport with the standard 2.4L. I currently have 2200 miles on it now and when I go in for my initial suggested oil change at 3000 miles ...
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