Sonata NF (2006-10) :: Low Beam Fuse Blows Instantly Upon Replacement
Dec 22, 2013
Background: Sonata 2009 Limited. 165K Miles. Original factory installed everything. Chicago area.
Last week I drove to the mall in the snow. Headlights worked fine. Upon leaving the mall I realized that my low beam headlights were not working.
Purchased and installed one low beam headlight bulb, on the slim chance that both of them simply burned out at the same time. It didn't come on.
Results of an internet search indicated that the fuse might be blown. I pulled the 20amp Low Beam headlight fuse and sure enough it was bad. Put in a new fuse. Turned on the headlights and it blew instantly.
Have been driving with the high-beams the past 5 days. Only one car has "blinked" at me, so driving with the high-beams isn't a problem. Probably because there are so many cars with really bright low-beam headlights these days.
However, I would like some guidance to getting this problem resolved. What are the most likely reasons for the low-beam headlight fuse blowing instantly like this?
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Every time I replace the ac fuse it blows again sometimes immediately or later it never last more than a day.
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I just purchased a 2011 Sonata. The low beams are not working and I am trying to diagnose the problem before I take it to the dealer in case it's just a blown fuse or bad relay. I have read through the owners manual and looked at both fuse compartments for the fuse and relays and to no avail. So, looking for the location of the low beam fuse and relay? I know there has to be a fuse for the headlights somewhere lol. Maybe I am missing it because of an abbreviation or something. What is the fuse name and I can go from there.
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I have an accent 2006 GS Sedan. I bought this as used recently. Noticed that the lights are not powerful at nights. When I turn on the lights there is no changes in the power of the driving / low beam lights.
Whether this is the standard with accent 2006. Other vehicles I have with me changes the power of the light and in this case there is no changes at all. I bought extra powerful bulbs and put them and there was a slight change, but there is no change between the driving lights and the low beam.
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So last summer I had the AC recharged. Worked great. I only ran the AC about twice over the winter to lub the seals (about 30 sec) prob not long enough but anyway.
I used the AC this month a couple of times briefly and it seemed to work just as well but today I get NOTHING except hot air. I cleaned the cabin filter, it sounds like the compressor comes on cause I know it makes that kick sound a few secs after hitting the AC button which illuminates. I took a quick look around but didn't see any leaks. fuse looked ok. I noticed the Low pressure line is wrapped.. do i have to take that off to check for leaks?
Does this sound like the refrigerant is low again after only like 6 months. If it worked great last week now nothing does that seem like the issue? Thinking of just filling up from autozone myself. I've also have a bad BCM with intermittent light/dash/window issues which arises in heat for past 2 years.
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The low beams on my 2010 Sonata seem dim compared to my other vehicles. I do not want to install HID lamps but would like a recommendation for a brighter lamp.
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Just got the battery replaced on my v6 Camry, had no problems before it. After replacing the battery, I drove about a mile to another stop and parked the car. Noticed it vibrating and the idles very low. I restarted the car and it wouldn't stay on. Car will turn on fine, RPMs will go a bit above 1k and drop down and turn off in about 5 seconds.
Today morning I started it and it seemed fine (cold start). Idles were about 1K on a cold start. Drove around about a mile and came home and the car stalled. Same as above, it'll start up and stall within 5 seconds.
I took it for a drive (about 25 miles) so the car can re-learn everything and took a stop at Autozone. Same thing there. Didn't stall on the way because I didn't have to stop, I was on the highway. One of the sales guys looked at the car and told me to try out a new MAF Sensor. Installed a new sensor and the car died off again within 5 seconds. Checked the readings of the MAF sensor (old and new) and they both read fine.
Brought the car back home (about 35 miles total driving after battery replacement) and it'll still stall as soon as you stop. To keep it going, you have to hold the brake and hit the accelerator very lightly to keep the idle in the middle of 0 and 1 or shift into Neutral and do the same.
No CELs on the car, car drove perfectly fine before the new battery. New battery tests good, even went to the extent of putting my old battery back in (Drove about 35 miles on new battery, replaced and drove 35ish miles). Car has just short of 100k miles. Regular services are done at Toyota at about 5-6k.
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Last week I smelled something burning when I arrived home. I looked around the car and did not see any smoke. I noticed the other night that I had no headlights (low or hi beam) The fog light work fine. No fuses are out.
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I am recently getting no AC just warm/hot air. I have yet to pressure check the system but i believe the compressor still turns. But I did notice throughout this the vents are only giving about 60% force on heat and AC as they used to. The blower motor spins although, cleaned the cabin air filter and one pin broke when putting it back. the blower motor spins louder on the "4" setting. I am guessing this is related to no A/C since it happened the same time and i don't think that low refrigerant would cause the heat system to blow less efficiently...
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Having some difficulties with my passenger side low beam. I replaced the bulb with one known to work but it wouldn't come on. Keep in mind the driver side works. Fuse if fine and I swapped relays but it still wouldn't come on. Took a multimeter to both sides; driver side reads 12v and works but the passenger side reads anywhere between 8-10v and does not work. I'm really stumped on this as all other lights work fine and the wiring in the engine bay seems fine.
I'm thinking as a last resort I might figure out how to wire a relay behind the pass side lamp using the 8 volts the wire receives to switch the relay on then run a new 12v wire from the fuse box to power the low beam when the relay activates. This would really be a last resort scenario though if it would even work.
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clarification: temperature control works as expected on driver side. Only hot air comes out on the passenger side.
1. Most of the problems of this sort seemed to have been solved by replacing an actuator - air blend actuator, vent door actuator, etc are the terms used. Are these all different names for the same actuator? Or are there two actuators?
2. The problems occurs regardless of the DUAL setting so I think it is unlikely to be a temperature sensor problem.
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Are there any 2009 Sonata owners that's changed the low beam headligh bulb themselves? I need specific directions for installing. The manual instructions are not very clear.
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I have a 2007 3.3 litre Sonata and just recently heard a buzzing sound coming from what I think is the fuse box area. When in park and neutral (buzz) .... drive and reverse - no buzz.
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I got in my 2009 Sonata this morning, started it and turned on the headlights. The headlights turned on momentarily and then turned off. The 20 amp headlight fuse blew. I cleaned the battery ground on the fender and the battery terminals. I also cleaned the connection between the battery terminal connector and the negative cable. I put everything back together and installed a new 20 amp fuse. I turned the lights on. They lit momentarily and then, predictably, blew the fuse again. Curiously enough, the "passing lights",which are just the high beams on another position on the headlight switch, still work.
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When my gas light comes on during the day my horn blows every couple minutes at night time the headlights go from high-beam to low-beam every couple minutes. Also, my check engine light is on more than it is off
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I have a 2004 Gen II that blows the A/C(Htr) 10 amp fuse. The dealer changed the inverter and replaced the fuse with a 15 amps which masked the problem. I have looked at the items that this feeds and have eliminated the: inverter (Dealer knows very little, Scary), A/C Control assembly, heater water pump assembly. I thought that since the Heater water pump assembly runs intermittently it might be that. Or could it be the diode in the relay that controls it? I cannot seem to find where it is located..
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Ok. So i left work yesterday and realized that my low beams are both out. These are new bulbs so I checked the fuse under the engine hood. It had not broken. I grabbed my volt meter and got no current DC going into the fuse. Where the relay is located? This is for a 2001 prius.
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2 days ago I was driving to a friends house and it started to rain. I put on my wipers and after 5 minutes they stopped working. I pulled over and checked the fuse and it was burnt out. I had a spare 25A fuse and replaced it on the spot. I first check the horn since it's the same fuse connection. The horn worked ok then I went on with the wiper...the second I put on the wipers the fuse blew again not even letting the wiper make one cycle.
Could it be the wiper motors? What should I do other then bring it in. I want to do it myself.
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My father has a 2009 F-150 with almost 25,000 miles. (he leaves it in garage and polishes it weekly) He just purchased a new dual axle trailer with electric brakes and led lights. When we hook up the trailer and press the Brake, turn signal or hazards, we blow a under hood fuse (48 if I remember correctly). When connected to either of his other 2 trailers, everything works and no issues. When I connect my 2014 suburban, the new trailer works perfectly. He does not have a brake controller installed on the F-150 yet. It does have the 7 pin and 4 pin plugs under the bumper.
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