Sonata NF (2006-10) :: Loud Knocking Or Clanking Under The Valve Cover And Sluggish Idle
Jun 5, 2013
My girlfriends 06 Sonata 4cyl threw a p0011 code a week or so ago. I looked online and saw that it could be dirty oil so I immediately changed it (it was about 400 miles overdue at that point). I also looked on the forums here and was referred to a thread that suggested replacing the oil control valve. My girlfriend drove to work a few times before I fixed it (maybe a 100 miles total) and the car stalled out in the middle of an intersection. I then replaced the OCV and to my discontent the problem was still very present. Very loud knocking or clanking under the valve cover and sluggish idle. Her mechanic now says that it is a job for a hyundai dealership and that it could be something as bad as a head or engine rebuild. What the problem could be?
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I have a 98 F-150 which has a loud knocking at the passenger side valve cover. I am not a mechanic but thought it was a rocker arm knocking. I dropped some oil from the oil pan and did not see and metal shavings. I added some mystery oil but the knocking continued.Loaded the truck on a trailer and hauled to a mechanic to check for the problem. He said the oil ports are clogged and oil can not get to the cam shaft and the cam shaft bearings are probably causing the knocking. He said there is no way to fix this problem and I will have to replace the motor.
I called another mechanic and described what the other mechanic described. The 2nd mechanic said it would require a complete tear down of the motor and would be cheaper to replace the motor. I recently bought this truck just to use for hunting and around town since it already has 198k miles on it.
Is there any way to clean the gunk from the oil ports? The truck will still run but just has the loud knocking so I don't let it run for more that a couple minutes. I have been reading many opinions for sludge blocking the oil passages and am considering removing the valve cover gasket and filling with diesel and let sit for 24 hours then repeat then put in fresh oil and filter. Maybe this will clean the blocked passages.
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I just picked up a 2001 F350 with the 5.4L with 200k miles. When I test drove the thing the engine sounded fine. I got it home and noticed that it occasionally has a loud knocking noise that is coming from the Left Valve cover area. It sounds like an old Chevy 6.5L Diesel ...
It comes and goes, Hot or Cold. It seems like it usually goes away when driving with RPMs above 1500 or so, however I took off with it yesterday and the noise would not go away, it seems like it might be low on power when the noise comes on, but then again it always feels low on power, so who knows.
I have changed the plugs, oil, and verified there are no exhaust leaks at the manifolds.
Here is a video of the noise: YouTube....
I dont think it is the timing chain, as it seems like its coming more from the center of the cover, when placing my hand on the cover near the timing set there is no vibration or anything that would lead me to believe its the chain.
All of my searching so far turns up 3V stuff, and little info on the 2V engines. The valve cover looks like a nightmare to get off, who have to work on these things (including me).
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I have a 07 Sonata and having recurring valve cover leak. First time it happened it leaked onto my alternator and had to get car towed and whole bit. About a year later they discovered it again during routine oil change and had it fixed again. Yesterday during a routine oil change, they discovered a leak again!! I know this is an established problem but how many times can the same problem occur?? I'm passed the warranty (103K).
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Changing the valve cover gasket on the 4 cylinder 2.4l. I was going to change mine's. Didn't know if there are any special tips like sealant to be used, loosening bolt sequence or tightening sequence, torque values.
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I'm suspecting a small valve cover gasket leak. I've noticed dirt starting to accumulate near the alternator side of the front valve cover, there is dirt on there stuck to oil, I don't see any wet oil but its so minor the dirt just sticks to it. 107k miles here. Seems to be a common problem. I think Downhiller had a large oil leak, source unknown around his crank pulley area. You wouldn't think a car this young would leak oil. It's not bad, I havn't had to top any off I just like a mildly clean engine.
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2007 Sonata GLS 2.4 liter, 145,000 mostly-highway miles.I have a P2187 OBD code, which means an upstream O2 sensor. It's on order, should be arriving in a few days. The sensor has been bad for about a month, but I just recently ordered it.BUT... now I have a fairly loud valve tap; this is tapping whether the engine is cold or hot. A few weeks ago I changed my oil; put in hi-mileage oil (Pennzoil maybe? I remember it was a gold container) and a Fram oil filter (I noticed a number of people on here saying to definitely not use Fram).
I checked the codes again (I was thinking maybe a camshaft position sensor) but I still only have the P2187.This model has a chain, not a belt. So a few questions: Could having a bad O2 sensor (and hence running lean) have caused the tapping?I was thinking of doing an engine flush, then putting in some Lucas along w/synthetic and a new filter.
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More times than not now, when making a sharp left turn and sometimes a left turn in general, a loud popping/clanking/knocking noise comes from the rear of my truck. I can feel it in the steering when it's about to do it. The steering wheel will become stiff when turning left and when I straighten up it will pull to the right (just got the truck aligned so I don't think that's a problem). Rear left tire will spin like its struggling to spin. After all that I can make a hard turn right and "pop" everything will seem to go back to normal. 1999 Silverado Z71 5.3l ....
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My 1999 jeep grand Cherokee with 170000 miles with a straight line 6 cilinder has a knocking noise coming from the valve cover area. It is only present during a cold start and for about 2 to 3 minutes. Once it starts getting hot it stops. The engine runs fine it has lots of power and I do not have any other issues.
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My 2009 Sonata 2.4l Sonata has been making a loud knocking noise when it is cold, but it will fade to almost nothing after it warms up. I tried to make a sound clip of the noise, but it was so distorted that I could not even make out the noise on the video.
For some strange reason the noise matches the skipping problem I have been complaining about since the beginning. Yea it's still there. It sounds like it is in the valve system, not the lower end. It leads me to believe it's coming from the valve clearance/ camshaft area.
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2008 SONATA i4. The transmission started to whine a lot when first driven when cold, well transmission was replaced under warranty due to "pump failure"? I noticed that the loaner car I received for tranny replacement had a knock at startup so I called and told the dealership about it, they said it was the timing chain, it was a v6, oddly it didn't sound like timing chain to me, started after fast idle and went away within about 100 feet of driving.
2 days after I got my car back it would knock after I started it up cold when it came down off fast idle, and would knock for about 100 feet of driving or so, then the knock would disappear until the next cold start. exactly like the loaner V6. Well took my car in to have it looked at, got another loaner, 09 sonata I4, same knock, service couldn't replicate problem with my car.
Went ahead and got oil change, drove car home and the next day it had the same knock at startup when cold. Just took it back to dealership to have them look at irregular tap/knock when warm at idle, also car still has startup knock, but just not as loud.
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I've had this tapping in my engine for a few weeks now and I put it in drive then heard a huge bang from the front of my engine and then started making a very loud popping noise that almost sounded like air leaving the valve cover...
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New valve cover gasket on my 03 VR6 GTI, new plugs, oil filter and cooler seals, new gaskets on the intake manifold and when we started it up . . . .
[URL] .....
It runs rough.
EPC light is on.
Stall at idle.
Runs great at full throttle.
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I've been noticing an oil burning smell after driving recently, it's been going on for a few days now. My oil level is good, I have 8,500 miles on the car. Today I finally had a chance to look under the hood for any visible leaks, and I noticed some oil stains on what I think is the valve cover gasket.
2015 Sonata 2.0T ...
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I've got a 2004 Mazda 6 with the 3.0L V6 & a 5-speed, with about 128k miles.
The car runs fine, but was leaking oil onto the exhaust manifold and so I recently had the valve cover gaskets replaced. the mechanic could not get replacement gaskets from Mazda, and so changed the valve covers themselves also, and consequently needed to replace a couple of hoses that connect to the valve covers.
Since the repair, the car drives fine - acceleration seems normal, I don't notice any performance issues. The CEL is NOT lit.
1) When the car is in neutral, but rolling, the idle consistently bounces back and forth precisely between 1250 & 1500 rpm. This occurs always, and happens whether the gearshift is in neutral or the clutch is depressed. With the radio off I can hear the engine surging when this is going on. As soon as the car comes to a complete stop, the idle immediately drops to the a rock-steady position just below 1000 rpm, as it always has.
2) I assume related to the above, but since the repair my gas mileage has dropped from its usual 18-19mpg to 15.7-15.9mpg as recorded at two fill-ups, and my current tankful is looking to return equally low mileage.
I brought the car back to the shop and the mechanic took the car out for a drive with me, with his computer hooked up while we drove. He found nothing wrong, nothing out of whack, and saw no evidence of any air leaks.
1) Seems strange to me that the valve cover gasket couldn't be obtained, and new valve covers were needed. I want to believe the garage is being straight with me. Is this really plausible?
2) What could cause the idle to behave this way? I understand what a valve cover does (in my earlier years I changed the cylinder head on my old Saturn) and can't figure out how or why changing the valve covers would have an effect like this.
That leads me to conclude this is more likely caused by the new, slightly different hoses attached to the valve cover, but I don't know exactly what those hoses do or why they connect to the valve covers, so I'm stuck here.
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I have a 2001 1.8t tip wagon(75k) that that is starting to worry me. It makes a tapping sound (coming from back of valve cover) AFTER it is warmed up at idle. When the RPMs go over 1,000, the sound goes away. Is this the cam chain adjuster or tensioner??? Also, when the engine first starts up it makes a similar noise , only louder, for the first couple of seconds.
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So I always have the radio on so I rarely hear subtle noise like this, but lately I have tried to track down this noise I have been hearing.
Every time I back out of my garage, I would obviously have it from Park to Reverse...when I put it in D from R....there is clunking noise right after the first gear...
It goes first gear, than this clanking noise then 2nd gear....It almost sounds like a motor mount? I hope its something not too bad as a mount.
It only happens when engine is cold and it seems to only happen that one time I go from 1 to 2 right after R..
It's sound like a grinding metal but real quick...like something crushing.
I have done ATF flush at 30, 60, and 90; the 90k was done just about two months ago.
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Haven't had the engine cover off for about 25k now (cleaned it up under there last time I changed plugs.) Took it off today and noticed it's a little oily on all four sides around the valve cover.
Pretty sure I can account for the oil that's near the filler cap... I don't recall spilling enough that would completely go around the entire valve cover though...
But how did it end up so high on top of the valve cover on the corners? It's even a little wet looking on the back if you look hard enough..
I only have 4600 miles left of the 10/100 warranty so I'm glad I caught this and hope the dealer can do something about it... or are they going to tell me this a "normal" amount of seepage? I haven't owned a vehicle with plastic valve covers before so I don't quite know what to expect.
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So I'll be taking on a project to replace the valve cover gasket on my 2002 Camry V6. There's a bit of leakage through the gasket. And while I'm at it, I'll replace the spark plugs as well. I'm looking for a write up on this project. did a lot of searching but couldn't find anything.
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My son-in-law came by tonight and showed me his ticket from his oil change at the dealer on his '08 Azera, 108k miles. Tech remarked that both valve cover gaskets AND the oil pan gasket were leaking. I've walked through his garage many times when my daughter has the car at work and I've never noticed any oil on the floor. Should have I seen any? I told dealer I would just drive it and monitor the oil level and any other signs of oil leakage. Since he bought the car with 101k miles and a fresh oil change ticket and never checked the level over the next 7k miles I don't think it's leaking bad.
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I have a 2006 Infiniti G35 base sedan. The dealer noticed oil on the engine and said that I needed to replace both valve covers and gaskets -- My question: Why is it necessary to replace the valve covers and not just the gaskets?
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