I have a 2009 Hyundai sonata, 2.4, 5 speed manual, gls, when I press down on clutch whether from a stop or when shifting, I get a loud grinding noise and the radio goes dead at same time!, I know it is the starter attempting to "engage", at least that's what I believe it to be, it also "'starts "from, the "on " position when I press on clutch.
View 8 RepliesLong story..couple months ago while coming home my 08 Sonata 2.4L manual 84,000 miles...started making this grinding noise and would stop when I pressed the clutch in and then sounded like something was grinding near the passenger front wheel.. well I get it home and the next morning my husband and I ride up the road so he can hear it.. was going to take it to the shop but it stopped and ran just fine till the other day.. crank the car and its fine.. once it gets warmed up and a few miles down the road it makes a knocking noise...but only when I let off the gas or idling .. even pressing on the gas just a tiny bit made it stop (even tried in while parked in the driveway with the hood up to make sure the engine wasn't just drowning it out) well I took it to the local dealership today and they said it was the flywheel and that it and the clutch and bearing needed to be replaced..
View 3 RepliesI'm at my place in Florida 1,000 miles from home, and when I started the car in a mall parking lot, there was some grinding metallic noise for a few seconds and I couldn't get it into first or reverse and the clutch pedal was way down. I was able to get going in 2nd and eventually the clutch was back to normal and I could get 1st and R. What happened? Broke some fingers in the pressure plate? Seems to run fine now but have a 1,000 mile ride ahead in the morning.
View 1 RepliesI just got the car back from repairs, there was a loud grinding noise coming from the left side of the engine. It turned out the whole rack and pinion setup was pouring out fluids and needed to be completely replaced also while it was in there they checked out an oil leak which ended up being the front valve cover and replaced a dead O2 sensor. The car has 99,300 miles
View 6 RepliesWhat's going on. Out the past 2 months or so I've been getting this creak/tinkering noise weird to explain when ever I would press the brakes and turn the wheel while at the dealer getting my idler pulley replaced under warranty I told the service writer who passed it on to the tech after I got the car back still made the noise they said my brake pads were separating a little that was causing the noise yesterday I was waxing my car and I started to clean the wheels and then scrubbed the capiler a little I noticed the brake clips looked nasty I went to clean them and while doing that I heard the same kind of noise that was my issue I sprayed a little wd/40 on the clips and wala my noise in gone I was thinking since here in NJ we got so much snow and they use salt maybe the salt dried up any grease on the clips and that was causing my noise I plan on getting new pads soon regardless but this solved my issue of the noise.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2010 Hyundai Sonata GLS 2.4L. This problem started several weeks ago. When I turn on the ignition on the car, I hear a squeaking noise coming from the engine initially. Once the engine warms up, the squeaking sound lessen but does not go away. When I shift my automatic transmission to DRIVE, and press the accelerator, I hear squeaking noise coming from the engine again. I stopped my car and opened the hood. I could hear the squeaking noise coming from the front left of my car, if you are facing forward the front of the car. I do not know much about cars but I think it is coming from the fan belt/serpentine belt, or possibly alternator but I am really not sure.
Presently, the sound has gotten worse so I want to fix this as quickly as possible. I am second owner and the mileage on the car is 45,550.
I have a 95 Dodge Dakota SLT with a manual transmission. When I press the clutch, it loudly squeals. It makes no noise when my foot is off the clutch either in gear or neutral. I made sure the master cylinder was full of fluid. I'm thinking it's the throw out bearing.
I'm out of town, and have to drive 8 hours to get home. Can I get it home, or should I have it fixed ASAP?
Just put on eibachs and car is randomly making a grinding noise when slowly accelerating or braking.. Also noticing a fairly loud clicking noise when going in reverse. The noise isn't consistent and seems to happen more right after startup. I haven't gotten the alignment done yet and was wondering if this could be the problem. Will try and post a video soon.
View 8 RepliesI just bought a 2006 Sonata LX V6 a few days ago and in almost every way it seems like a great car. My '08 GLS V6 which gave me 150k great miles got totaled in November, which really sucks, but I wanted to find another '06-'08 V6. I noticed when I started it for the test drive that the car made a bit of a grinding noise on start up. I didn't think much of it and figured that the warranty from the dealership would cover any problems.(I probably should've checked earlier, but the dealership's warranty only covers cam and lifter noise and engine failure) After I looked into the issue more, I found out that it is a fairly common problem on the early 3.3's with the timing chain tensioners. I'm pretty concerned based on just the nature of the repairs and the cost I've seen for them.
I'm the third owner so the 5 year/60k warranty is expired, but I know there is a TSB out for the issue. I can't find the TSB anywhere but I've heard to have it repaired the car has to make the noise on start, sit 10 minutes, and make the noise again. If it does, the oil needs to be changed and the test repeated again. Since I'm running Hyundai 5W-20 and an OEM filter already, I tried the test on my own. It made the noise on start, sat 10 minutes, and made it again. It is only for a couple seconds, but it's still concerning to me. I guess what I'm trying to ask is if what I've described is covered under the TSB. I really don't wanna have to worry about something like that right now, so my next question is whether the issue I have is detrimental to the motor. My worst fear would be to have the chain jump a cog on the cam gear and slam valves into pistons.
My '06 Nissan Altima suddenly started making a very loud rattling noise as soon as I put it into drive and start moving at low speeds. The noise does not go away at high speeds. It sounds like I am dragging the entire undercarriage. When breaking it grinds very loudly. All of this is sudden. Only other issue I had recently was that the motor wouldn't catch when I tried it Saturday, but it finally did after giving it a good amount of fuel. Drove it 300 miles yesterday without a problem. Woke up to a car that sounds an awful lot like a plane.
View 9 RepliesSo I was visiting my brother yesterday and he was standing beside the car when I started it (in first gear, clutch disengaged). When I put the car in neutral and let the clutch out he asked if I had heard the noise it made. Makes it when the clutch is engaged (ie, pedal up) but not when engaged, so I can safely say it's not the throw-out, which would be noisy when clutch disengaged. Kind of a rattling noise, nothing really loud but is noticeable. Could this be something to do with the dreaded dual mass flywheel? Wouldn't imagine it has anything to do with the clutch disc as it would be held tight when the clutch is engaged.
View 2 RepliesNeed to determine the noise before I took the vehicle in to be serviced. I don't know if I would necessarily describe this as grinding...to me it doesn't sound like metal on metal..but it's not normal.
Only happens on a cold startup, and even then it hasn't been 100% of the time...probably 80% of the time though.
2007 Hyundai Sonata - Startup Noise - YouTube
I found this thread, Grinding Sound On Statup but not sure it's the same issue. This just started. Vehicle has 150K miles on it.
Have a '06 V6 GLS w/ approx 105K miles. About a week ago I started hearing a noise. The noise sounds a lot like a brake pad wear indicator, metal grinding on metal. However, the noise does not seem to be related to use of the brakes. The noise only occurs when the car is moving. It is intermittent. Comes from the front of the car. Seems to usually occur when making a sweeping or gentle right turn. Speed does not seem to matter - can be going 20 to 60 mph. Noise will last from less than a second to as much as 5 to 10 seconds and then goes away.
I have taken a cursory look at the crankshaft damper pulley and it appears to be ok...
I have a 2007 Elantra with 138,000 miles. I never had any slipping or jerking or reverse issues in the past. I got into the car put it in reverse just fine then put it in drive and nothing happened, I put it in park and the car kept rolling like in neutral and started making a loud grinding noise. When I put the transmission in any other gear the noise stops but will not move and acts as if in neutral.
View 2 RepliesA few days ago, my Sonata 2006 LX started making weird noises when driving at low speeds. The noise comes from the front driver's side area, they are not affected by steering or going over bumps. Usually get less intense when I accelerate or brake. At speeds around 5 mph, the noise is grinding and pretty loud. At higher speeds, it's more like banging and it's frequency increases with the speed. There was no effect other than the noise, but the last day at higher speeds, I can feel with the steering wheel a little vibration sometimes from the banging.
I've been having tough times renting a car during the weekend and I still drive on short distances, but I'm afraid it could be a safety issue or that I can be making things much worse to repair. The noises got worse since the beginning, but I don't think they are getting any worse anymore.
I am now getting a grinding noise when I shift from first to second gear. It sounds like the two metals rubbing each other. Its not happening all the time, but for the past two days a bit frequently
I had reported this grinding noise when I turn left a month back. Was thinking because of my worn out tyres, but apparently not.
I noticed yesterday a sound, like a grinding sound, *sometimes* as I apply the brakes to stop. I'm at 68k. The noise only happens when the brakes are applied so I suspect there is an issue with my brakes again.
Some BACKGROUND info: At around 60k (or 8 months ago roughly), the front pads were replaced after the brakes were squealing and a pulsating brake pedal when stopping. The pads were replaced by a dealer. In addition, both front/rear rotors were turned at the same time. Rear pads had 40% at the time and were not replaced.
Some weeks later the pulsation came back and I went back again and they machined them again. For this current issue I was thinking about taking the car to someplace local (not a dealer) and getting a free brake evaluation of what is going on.
I'm also concerned that all this machining the dealer did to eliminate the pulsation may have decreased the life of the rotors and perhaps they need replacement now.
I have a very slight grinding noise coming from the PS pulley area. Its possibly bearing noise although its hard to say. Is there a specific torque requirement. Any good parts...
View 1 RepliesI heard a grinding noise from one of my rear wheels. After investigating, I saw that the OUTER pad was worn down all the way. I had only driven 15K and it had not been very long so I did not expect this. I also didn't hear the warning tabs as the they are on the inner pad and it had not worn down enough. I checked the caliper slide bolts and they were gliding freely. I checked under the boots and there was still grease in there.
My old pads had only been worn to 30%-50% so I installed those on for now. When I compressed the piston, I had a hard time getting it started and had to apply a bit of force with the C-clamp, but then it compressed without the need for much force. When I put the pads in, it was pretty hard to get them into the clips. the inner one required me to press pretty hard with my hand, the outer one was so tight, I had to use the c clamp to get it all the way up to the rotor.
I'm wondering what the cause may be. Are there some typical causes for why the outer pad may wear faster? I would think if the caliper bolts were stuck, that would do it, but they move freely? could it just be that the pad is too tight on the slider? How might I fix that? I tried filing them down a little but that obviously wasn't enough.
Also, now the pads on the right and left are uneven and the rotor on the right isnt smooth anymore. Should I go ahead and change out the pads and that rotor? Does uneven pads or a rough rotor affect the effectiveness of the brakes significantly? They are the rear brakes so I would think there is less of an impact. I know that uneven pads and a rough rotor will cause them to wear faster, but if I need to replace them anyways, I might as well wait til they wear down more.
This noise started this week. Grinding when I take my foot off the brake when in park and parking brake set. What is causing it?
A guy at work said brakes. The front brake pads were replaced last year. Original rear.
Just over 90,000 miles.
Just replaced my OEM clutch and flywheel with SPEC ones and now I have a weird clicking noise during idle from it. Noise goes away when I press in clutch. My technician says that they are known for this noise. Is that true?
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