Sonata NF (2006-10) :: Loss Of Power / Rev Up When Pushed The Gas
Dec 11, 2010
well I don't exactly know if that's what I should call it... I was driving last night around 10 and I pushed the gas down 3/4 of the way or so to pass around this car but instead of downshifting and accelerating, it just revved up all the way, i kept hitting the gas and it was like revving it in neutral then it kicked back into gear... should i be concerned? It was fine the rest of the night but I wasn't driving it hard.
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What's going on with my sonata. Its an 06 GLS 4 cylinder, 168k miles. I've actually had the problem before, and it lasted maybe about a week or two before the car went back to normal by itself. But a couple days ago it has returned. The car barely goes! All it wants to do is rev and not go. Coming from a complete stop is the worse, as it takes me forever to get up there in speed. I already feel like a danger on the road by sometimes not being able to keep up with traffic. Once I get up there in speed I'm able to keep it at that. I thought it was maybe the spark plugs last time, so I changed them, but that didn't seem to be it. I know the car has electrical issues, now I'm just thinking its that since its done it before and went back to normal. I took a video to get a better idea of what its like. [URL] ....
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I was cruising on the highway and tried to accelerate and no more power. Could feel engine losing power. After I shutdown the car and start again, car was fine.
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My daughter's 2007 Sonata 4 cyl (88k miles) has an occasional power steering loss. It has only been noticed right after slowing down from highway speed. Total loss for a few seconds then comes back. No dash lights or noises, just steers like an old classic without power steering - then can.
This is kind or a repeat post from another individual but he had a V6.
SBR711 recommended replacing the Harmonic balancer and I am inclined to do so but parts guy at Hyundai said that typically is not an issue in the 4 cyl model. So he does not keep item on hand.
Fluid is fine, clean and proper level. No screeching etc..
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I've got about 80K miles on my '06 Sonata and the weather conditions were on the very wet side.
At first I thought I heard a squealing sound which I just credited to either a radio or windshield wiper sound while cruising through some twisty coastal roads. The rain was coming down pretty good and a small amount of standing water of already on the road.
As I continued my drive I began to notice an occasional loss of power steering for a split second through some turns accompanied by that same belt squealing sound. At the same time the battery light also came on for a split second which indicated to me possible engine failure for a split second. Even though it was for only a split second it really freaked me out to think I could end up crossing the center lane or over into the ditch. I then slowed my pace for the rest of the trip. When I stopped for gas I popped the hood and things appeared to be normal and with plenty of power steering fluid.
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I have a 2007 Sonata GL. So tonight after work when getting into car to go home I noticed my CEL came on, also as I was driving at low speeds/rpm I noticed the car really sounded like it has a diesel engine in it. At higher speeds on the highway I noticed it has some loss of power and the diesel sound went away. CEL stayed on.
The CEL light I am pretty sure is the OCV which I havent replaced yet. So my question is: Can the OCV cause the car to sound like a diesel and have loss of power is that caused by something else?
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So over the last few months I have been having more and more idling and power loss issues with my 2006 V6. When idling she intermittently will try to stall and the rpms will drop below 500 and then spike back up. A large percentage of the time I hear a loud whining sound while driving down the road and I notice that turning off the air conditioner will remove the sound at times.
***what I have done so far**
Idler Pulley
Belt tensioner
sepentine belt
cleaned MAF
Cleaned Throttle body
Throttle Position Sensor
Had car reprogrammed
So I pulled the belt off and checked all the pulleys and did notice some grittiness in the AC pulley (inner) and was wondering if this might be the issue. Attached is a video I uploaded, Video .....
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My 2006 Sonata V6 (88k miles) has an occasional power steering loss. It has only been noticed right after slowing down from highway speed. Total loss for a few seconds then comes back. No dash lights or noises, just cant steer - then can. Did all required maint. until 60k then just oil changes by me. Have read other forums about fluid flush, but that was for noise and I don't have any noise. This has happened with and without the Electronic Stability Control turned on. Other than that, runs great. MPG is about 25 or so (wish was 30 or so).
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Just got into my 2006 Sonata V6 this morning. 120,000 miles. Drove last night, no problems. Started her up now this morning, noted check engine light and ESC lights on.
Pushed accelator pedal, no increase in RPMS at all. Put the car in gear (auto), car moves forward and backward, but pressing the pedal doesn't increase the rpms at all, so right now its not driveable. Luckily, its in the driveway so I know it could be worse. Took floor mat out, no interference issue there.
I changed the starter solenoid and that was over 45,000 miles ago. Never had that problem.
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I pushed the accelerator all the way to the floor at 30 MPH and the engine lost almost all power? As soon as I let up to about 9/10 throttle everything reverted to normal. Took it to the dealer and it showed no codes. The Tech and I took it for a road test and it did it only one more time. He said to keep an eye on it but was baffled. I tested it later in the sport drive mode and it would bog down every time if pushed hard to floor at about 30mph.
My best guess is that I got some bad regular low octane gasoline and the ECM is sensing a knock and retarding the timing or cutting off fuel flow similar to over revving condition. I will fill it up with 93 Octane Premium next time I get fuel and se what happens. Usually runs fine on 87 Octane but most of the time I don't floorboard the accelerator pedal. As I said at 9/10 throttle it runs fine.
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So a few days ago the family and I were on a road trip. After driving for close to three hours we ran into a problem. We were doing about 75, which is about 3000 rpms with the 4.6L, When we dropped from 3k to about 400 and started to lose speed. I pushed the gas peddle all the way to the floor and no response at all. I pulled over and it had a very rough and choppy idle and it wanted to die. It eventually did. I checked all fuses with nothing found and i even hit the fuel pump shutoff reset. It started back up no problem and we got about 5 miles before it the exact same thing. Idle at about 400 rpms and no throttle response at all.
I shut it off and called a tow truck. It started up and they drove it onto the back of the tow truck and off at the local mechanic. They spent 2 whole days trying to diagnose it and even drove it for 4 hours straight, no issues. They pressure checked every system they could and tested every sensor they could. They could not find a single thing wrong with it. I drove it home 3 hours away with no issues. I got home and let it sit for about 10 minutes before I had to leave. I didn't make it more than 2 miles before the same issue popped up. I pulled over. Shut it off for 15 minutes and it started right up and drove home.
It threw 4 codes.
1. Pressure control solenoid malfunction
2. Fuel pump Primary circuit malfunction
3. Gear 3 ratio incorrect
4. Gear 4 Ratio incorrect
I've had 2 mechanics tell me its a PCM issue.
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For the past few weeks I have had a bizarre issue with my 2010 Sonata GLS. If you unlock all doors (press the FOB unlock button twice), get in, close the door and then turn the key and attempt to start the car, all power is lost to the the interior and with no lights, radio etc. The car is literally dead and won't start. If I open the drivers side door and then close it again, all power comes back and I can start the car. All radio stored stations are lost, the clock is reset and usually the trip odometer is reset too. Other times, if I just press the FOB unlock once to unlock just the drivers side door, the issue does not apparently seem to happen. What the issue may be?
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My car shifted wrong (i don't know how since it is automatic) and heard a loud knocking noises and lost power and then she shut down and turned off. called Hyundai assurance and they towed it to the nearest dealership since my dealership is an hour and a half away from my school. I don't know how this happened. I tried to crank it back up. heard a loud squeal maybe water pump? and she turns on but the rpms wouldn't go past 500 rpms well there she goes.
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My son is primary driver of our 2011 Limited with push-button start. He phoned me a few minutes ago to tell me he was driving--everything normal-- when there was suddenly a complete loss of power, mechanical and electrical (engine died, dash lights out, nav screen dark, etc.). There was no advance warning of any kind.
The power loss was total but brief, two or three seconds, and then reactivated on its own. My son said he pulled off the road into a parking area, stopped the engine, waited a few seconds and then restarted and is on his way home with everything working normally so far.
First issue with the Sonata--61k miles ....
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I am not a mechanic by any means, but have picked up a lot of stuff over the years. I drive a 2003 Hyundai Sonata with a 4 cylinder engine. Several days ago while going up a steep hill I lost power and my check engine light came on. This has happened before when my coil went bad so I figured it would be a breeze fixing it. I limped it home and ran the code. Sure enough it came back as cylinder 1 misfire. This vehicle uses 2 coils so I swapped them to try and get the problem to follow, but it did not. I have tried a new spark plug, new wires, and swapped injectors without success. There is still no activity on cylinder 1.
I ran a compression test. I get about 60 PSI on cylinder 1 and between 180-210 on 2-4. This would point to head gasket, so I am told. I do burn about a quart of oil every 500-1000 miles, but I do not seem to have any coolant leaking issues. I have not noticed any smoke from the tailpipe. The spark plugs were generally good looking, except for number 3 which had a hard white substance all over the electrode. There does not appear to be any oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil. This seems strange to me as everything I have read said that one of those would happen.
Is there anything else I should look into or is my engine toast?
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I recently (July 2016) bought a 2012 2.0T Limited with 14K miles. Got an awesome deal on it and really love the car. About two months ago the car had a total loss of power/boost. I took it into the dealer and they performed a wastegate actuator adjustment (something I will be doing on my own now if it becomes a problem again). Now at about 21k miles I'm having a different issue. Here is what's happening:
Accelerating from a stop the car feels as if it's falling out of gear intermittently. Once it happens and I press the gas more/floor it, the car doesn't respond. If I let off the gas and then press it again, the car will then start to accelerate again. On the highway cruising at 70ish, the same thing happens and it even oscillates with constant throttle like its down/up shifting. The ESC light came after a 20 mile highway trip of this oscillation. No CEL. When I got off the freeway, the navigation screen said there may be a problem and I should press the bluelink button.
When this is happening the cruise control either doesn't work at all or the "cruise" light will come on but I can't set a speed. Tonight I noticed in the rear view mirror that the brake light stays on or even flutters after I brake which corresponds to when the cruise is or isnt working as well as when the car intermittently falls out of gear/oscillates falling out of gear with constant throttle. If I notice the brake light is on without actually braking, I can take my foot and pull the brake pedal towards me which turns off the brake light and then the car seems to work correctly as well as the cruise control. The car is driveable but definitely something is wrong.
I should mention that I checked the voltage for the wastegate actuator and it is 3.97v which I believe is within tolerance. All of these issues with no CEL.
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My dad recently bought 2006 6.0. He has had it about 2 and half months. Has the egr delete kit installed. The truck has ran great. Up until Wednesday the 3rd. My dad headed to Ut to pick up our new quads. While heading up a small grade with empty trailer in tow. Truck went to limp mode, fan kicked on, orange wrench came on on dash board. He pulled over let her cool down turned her off.
Checked fluids Then started her back up and she was fine. That has happened 3 times. Now he is on his way back (tow haul mode turned on) and it is doing it again. She hasn't went into limp mode yet. As soon as the fan kicks in my dad pulls over immediately and puts it in park. And lets her cool down checks fluids. This issue only happens mid way up a grade. So my question is...... What is causing this? How do we fix her and make her a happy truck again.
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Ok on Sunday I washed my car, dried it including opening the hood and trunk as I normally do. On Monday morning I pushed my remote twice like normal and started to walk away but then i noticed I heard no horn. So I hit the lock button again twice in a row this time looking at the car and this time I noticed that the lights didn't flash either, however I could hear the locks lock. Just to make sure I tried to open the doors and they were locked.
So today I got out the manual and looked in section 4/12 - 4/18. It says that one lock button pressed lights flash, within 4 seconds hit again and lights flash and horn will honk once. I never saw anything about deactivation of this feature... So Just to make sure i went around and opened all doors, trunk and hood, then closed them all. I tried again to arm the alarm, hit the lock button twice and again no horn honk or flashing lights. So I finally opened up the hood and wanted to see if the hood pressure switch was maybe out of alignment. looked fine then i held it down and pressed the lock button on the remote, and BAM the lights flashed, pressed it again and lights flashed and horn honked once. Held it down for about 20-25 seconds till i saw the alarm light start flashing released it and the alarm set off. Next I closed the hood tried again, but once again the lights didn't flash and no horn....
Started looking at the top of the hood where the pressure switch would touch touch when closed, and noticed that it looks like maybe I am missing a rubber stopper on the hood that presses the switch, maybe when i was drying under the hood I knocked it off? Or maybe my pressure switch needs to be adjusted?
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2011 Sonata Se. Keyless fob will not unlock car or open trunk. Brake lights and overhead lights are all that will light. Immobilizer indicator flashes yellow when start button is pushed with brake depressed, car does not even attempt to start.
Putting fob in console will also cause the Immobilizer light to flash, no start up. Holding start button with foot on brake for a minute does nothing.
Owner's manual says call dealer. Car battery is 1 year old and 2 fobs have new batteries, and neither will work.
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I recently (3/3/14) purchased a 2011 Sonata Limited 2.0 with only 6750 miles. I've owned it for 3 weeks and put 2000 miles on it. So far, lots to say good about it but one very disturbing quirk- on occasion, when accelerating from a stop in traffic or when entering moving traffic from a side street or driveway, there is a sudden loss of power. This power loss lasts from about one second to as long as 3-4 seconds before the engine recovers and the car resumes normal acceleration. I've taken it to my local Hyundai dealership twice with this complaint, but the defect is intermittent (technician was unable to duplicate it at the time) and there is no defect code to be found.
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Accent 2008, 130000km
For several days my accent has quite a significant loss of power (I have trouble reaching 100km h) and the check engine is on. At the beginning I thought it was a coil that was lacking but I have verified and 4 are ok. I verified the check engine codes and got the code 420 inches and po172. po = 420 capacity threshold and lower catalyst po = 172 system too rich .... I do not know what to do with that! can you recommend me a good Mechanic on the south shore of mtl.
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