Sonata NF (2006-10) :: Limp Mode - Code P0743
Jan 17, 2017
I've a 2006 sonata 3.3 with 100k miles on it and recently it started going to limp mode leaving me in 3rd gear only after scanning it I've found code p0743 (TCC selonoid open/short circuit) what to check from here or can share any wiring diagrams for this particular circuit I'm not sure where to start. where is the wiring harness for that is located ? is it in the oil pan ? and if I wanted to pull the selonoid itself to check would it be something I can do myself ?
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2008 sonata 3.3, no reverse however the dash indicates it's in reverse. Code P0733. I understand how an unrelated problem can cause another and wonder if I can eliminated possible problems. Car is in limp mode and stays in second or third gear.
I am about to disconnect, clean and wiggle the connectors for the transmission inner and outer sensors and then find out if I can test the sensors. That is, after I find them.
I'm also on the hunt for anything the TPS sensor might have to do with it. Battery disconnect does not work, even after hours. Is there any way something unrelated like the brake light switch or the inhibitor switch (whatever that is), might be the cause? Valve body?
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My 2010 Malibu has been throwing a code 0f 2135 also goes into limp mode. Code comes up as throttle pos sen. So looking I can see it is all built in one with the throttle body. Can it be changed with out any special tools?
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Got a 2006 GX throwing a P2445 code and car goes into limp mode. Is this the Air Injection Pump? Where it's located?
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2006 F350 5.4L 5R110W
I've had the TCC solenoid replaced. Not long after, it locked up again. I had the whole solenoid body (including harness & sensors) replaced .....continues to run hot and eventually lock up. IIRC, it gives code P0743
Transmission shop seems to think it's an electrical issue outside the transmission and thus not something they can deal with.
I took it to a dealership and they said that if it was an electrical issue outside the transmission, it would be throwing codes every time I start it up....which it isn't. They would start be replacing the solenoid (and possibly the whole body) with 'brand new' parts.
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About a week ago my 2002 santa fe suddenly lacked performance and the check engine light came on . At the same time I noticed the speedometer stopped registering. I later discovered the poor performance was due to the fact that the vehicle was in 3rd gear "limp" mode. The code generated is 1602 "failure to communicate between the ecu and transmission control module". At this point I hoping its just a faulty speed sensor that's causing the problem and not the transmission control module.
Does it indeed sound like a bad speed sensor or does it sound like a faulty TCM or could it be a break in the wires between the ECU and TCM? Also, is it safe to drive the vehicle in limp mode until i replace the part later this week?
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I have a Korean spec 2014 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.2L R-eVGT 6AT 4WD. Around a year ago it started to go into limp mode i had it checked and the error code was p0488 (EGR) Throttle Control Circuit A Range / Performance.
It has gradually become more frequent to the extent it goes into limp mode within a a minute or so . so far the dealer has changed the EGR valve, TCM , the whole turbo assembly and it is no different. They have also stripped and cleaned the intake manifold and egr cooler.
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On my 2006 Ford F150 2WD, v6 automatic, the overdrive dash lamp is blinking, I get a engine light and the code I get is a P0743. That indicates the solenoid or wiring is bad, but everything works just fine. The transmission is running fine, clear fluid - no odor. The overdrive works and the truck shifts like new. When I start, the "OD-OFF" light immediately starts blinking and never changes. I can activate the OD normally and it doesn't effect the blinking light.
Where to start? I suspect that since all is functioning well, the issue is with the signal to the ecm? By the way, I can clear the code so that the engine light goes off, but the "OD-OFF" light remains blinking.
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I'm going to do a weld-in-plug delete in my RV in the next couple weeks, and its a crapshoot apparently if it'll throw a code. My immediate concern is I want to go on a trip right after, and I won't have time to fiddle about getting an SCT tuner to turn the code off. What I definitely don't want is a code for EGR flow restriction to eventually cause my motor to go into some kind of limp mode while I'm in the middle of a long drive. Is this possible?
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Twice now, my 2006 VW Jetta has gone into "limp mode"--RPMs rev like mad but I get very little power, won't go into overdrive. Had to get it home both times by using the Tiptronic. The first time it happened, we were driving through The Poconos on a nice day. Shut the car off & restarted it with no problem. The 2nd time was during an intensely hot day & torrential rainstorm in MD. The car sat for 2 days before going back to normal. Is this normal behavior for a VW? And what makes it go into limp mode? I can understand it happening during the rainstorm but on a nice day of normal driving?
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I have 1 month left on my AAMCO rebuilt transmission. I took it in a few weeks ago when it went into "limp mode" (Stuck in 1st gear). Eventually, they got an error code of P0730, which I believe is electrical-related. All was pretty good but then today, driving @ high speed on the interstate, I could not get into 4th gear...
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I just got an Egde Evo which I installed and everything looked great. After a few runs, I noticed the ABS light coming on an soon after that my transmission goes to limp mode (the wrench lights up).
I receive the DTC error: P2106 on the Edge Evo.
I have gone back to Factory default, but it keeps coming back, ie. the ABS light lights up and the Trans goes to Forced Limited Power (according to the Evo).
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We have a 2006 Passat, 30K miles, live in northeast on a Great Lake. We bought it used in 5/07 with 11K miles on it. The other day, a whole mess of warning lights came on, and the car went into "limp mode." The dealership diagnosed corroded wires where they connect to the throttle valve controller. We usually keep our cars for years, and we've never had corroded wires before. Is this a typical problem of VW's? The service mgr said he'd seen about 6 come in in the last year, but I don't know if that's a lot or a few compared to other brands. We're getting ready to shop for cars again, and we'd consider a new Jetta, but not if it can't go out in the rain. Also, if the wires corroded once, what will keep them from corroding again? Should we expect this to keep happening?
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Nissan XTerra 2005 transmission RE5R05A. Trouble code is p1757 When I go from park to drive it goes out of gear and puts my car in limp mode. I took it to the dealer and they told me that I have to replace a transmission another place told that it could be brake solenoid or oil filter. In third place they told me it could be the TCM problems.
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I recently bought a h&s tuner and installed a dpf delete kit. Everything works great when the truck is not plugged in to the tuner although when I do plug it in, the truck keeps throwing a communications code and goes into a limp mode until I delete the code. I believe it was p0073 but i maye be mistaken. Regardless it has to do with communicating through the obd2 port. I sent the tuner in to get checked out and it turns out its something to do with the truck. I've checked all the fuses and tried to check for broken wires. Where to look next?
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2006 Montana 3.9.
Went into 'limp mode' (dash says, reduced engine power)
Mechanic friend scanned it: It indicated Cam Sensor. He bought a Cam Sensor but the next scan indicated Throttle Position Sensor. TPS is not available separate from the throttle body.
It seems like it might be a dirty fuel filter to me but it looks like the only fuel filter is on the pump in the fuel tank. Is that the case? Auto parts people say no other filter. Is there something we can do besides the full blown job of pulling the tank, and removing the fuel pump; some kind of additive or treatment to clean the fuel filter?
Why is it still the norm to have the pump etc. in the tank where you can't access it?
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F250 7.3L diesel started to flash OD light, goes into limp mode, code p1747. No other codes. Have had issues for a couple of years where the truck would not shift into gear for awhile; sometimes a couple of minutes till it would engage. Have done lots of diagnostics. Visual check harness. Have 12v on pins 1&12 on harness at transmission plug. Plug had some ATF visible, but cleaned it up and continuity good. (with 4" exhaust hard to get to connector).
Checked all solenoid wires with a DVM back to plug at PCM for continuity and shorts, all good. Pulled transmission pack and checked resistance on all solenoids except temp varistor all within specs. Removed Banks Trans Command and rewired tranny plug and pulled Ottomind chip from PCM. Still goes into limp mode and throws code. Did not see any bad solder joints or burns inside PCM by the way.
Seems like PCM right? But here is a complication to my issues. For over a year I have been having electrical issues like the radio not working and windows not working intermittently after starting up. After running for awhile or on restart would work fine. Sounds like the Instrument Cluster issues or relays.(?)
Will be pulling IC and checking for any bad solder joints. However, did not throw p1747 till just recently and now my radio has really gone wonky. It comes on when key is on automatically and then proceeds to cycle through settings; AM-FM-CD.
So questions are, "Is it possible that a bad Instrument Cluster can cause a p1747 code?" "Bad Ground to Tranny" "Can a bad PCM cause a electrical issue in IC??" "Are these 2 separate issues?"
2002 f250 7.3L, 4R100 automatic trans, ~180,000miles
Banks Stinger package, 4" exhaust, TransCommand, (now removed).
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I was once the proud owner of a 2006 Prius with 106,716 miles on it. Never missed a regularly scheduled service. Now, I am no longer proud, but just another owner of a Prius with a failed transaxle.
Last week, I parked my car on my way to work and, while the car was idling in park, the Triangle of Death (red with exlamation mark within) came up on the dashboard. The car went into limp mode -- it was unable to shift into drive or reverse -- so I had it towed to Darcars in Silver Spring, MD. They thought the original 12v battery was dead, so they replaced it.
P0AA6 -- 526 and 613 codes 600 miles after Transaxle Fluid Replacement...
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Should we go to a transmission specialist or a regular shop for our issue? 2006 Kia Sedona - won't shift into reverse suddenly and is in "limp" mode, only staying in 3rd gear.
My concerns are primarily getting it done correctly and as cheaply as possible. I've read that the issue could be an input or output solenoid or maybe having to get a full on re manufactured transmission instead. But the consensus appears to be having it properly diagnosed.
So my question is, will the local shop around the corner who is pretty good with most repairs be able to properly deal with this? Or am I better off skipping them and going to the specialist?
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Replaced HPFP 38,000 miles ago. Truck began going in limp mode without engine light, wrench came on in dash, gave codes for brake switch, anti-theft, some other weird codes. Had those codes cleared, ran for while then water separator came on, drained the water out, came back on. Read some forums, so I removed and cleaned the housing, cleaned off the sensor. Had code cleared and ran good for about a week. Then guess what engine light comes on, limp mode.
Went to Auto Zone, pulled code P0088. This truck runs awesome until limp mode. No other problems. I take it to the ford dealer, scanner pulled P0088 and the water separator code again. I have read alot of remarks about this P0088 code. Can there be another cause for pulling this code, only 38,000 miles later. I had them do the TSB 12-07-07 but I have also read it can only be done if the P0088 is the only code. I just really feel there is an underlying issue with these 6.4's.
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Ok just bought this truck ran fine. Put a sct tuner on that the truck came with and some how got the egr turned on. It had a egr delete so it was smoking and finally found it out that it had turned on but fixed it. Now we have another problem, it will start up and run fine and about 45 seconds it will start running rough and go into a limp mode. It will run rough and starts to die slowly and when it starts to die there is no throttle at all.
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