My left parking brake cable seems to stick. The parking brake shoes and springs appear to be fine. I have ordered a new left parking brake cable and need to know how to remove the old cable and feed the new cable to the hand brake lever. Looking for the brake cable removal procedure and diagrams?
View 2 RepliesWhen I set the parking brake last night, there was a loud pop and the pedal suddenly went soft to the floor and would not spring back when I pulled the release. The pedal doesn't spring back up when I pull the release lever, but I was able to pull it back up by hand to get the dash light to go out. That works, but without the tension from the brake cable the pedal works back down and the dash light comes on.
When I got out of the driver's seat, there was a cable laying on the ground right under the front door. The cable snapped right in front of a metal cable joiner. What is involved in fixing this?
I noticed the rear parking cable's one end hanging. Not sure how to connect it. Appears a part is missing.
View 7 RepliesI bought a 2006 Sonata V6 3.3L with 137k on it about a month ago. Engine and Trans is great, but I noticed an issue that developed within the past week and a half or so.
I am one to always engage the parking brake when parked, to relieve pressure on the parking paw in the transmission. After about a week of heavy use of the parking brake, I began to hear a slight 'clunk, clunk, clunk' coming from the rear passenger wheel (it actually sounded like something was loose in the trunk, but ruled it out). The 'clunk' sound at first only happened going over rough or bumpy roads, but within the past week or so it's gotten louder and more consistent. It now 'clunks' regardless of speed or road surface.
I used the parking break today for the first time while the car was in motion, and when pulled it sqreached very loud, didn't really stop the car, but the 'clunk' became very loud while the break was pulled - shockingly loud, actually.
A couple of days ago I took the rear passenger tire off while jacked up, and spun the wheel. With neither the parking or regular breaks engaged, the wheel made a 'clunk' sound very similar to that it makes on the road. Took of the Tire/Rim and spun the Rotor, to hear the same sound. Attempted to wiggle the Rotor and found no play at all.
At first, the clunk went away when you pressed the floor board brake pedal, even just a slight bit stopped the noise. Now it doesn't seem to stop it any longer.
My main idea is that the parking brake in the Rotor is the culprit, given that the issues didn't arise until I started using the parking brake - and the fact that brake appears to not work very well. However, my dad tells me he thinks it's a wheel bearing. I don't think it is - as its not making any metal on metal sounds, nor is it very difficult to rotate the Rotor while jacked up.
I bought 2000 Ranger with rear half of the frame cut and welded.
The mechanics who did this did terrible job of putting things where they belong. I rerouted wiring harness and rebuilt EVAP lines, but cannot figure out what is the correct route for parking brake cable.
Currently some part of the parking brake cable is sitting on the leaf spring. It may also be missing some mounting brackets or clips. Looking for a picture or diagram showing parking brake cable routing?
I'm having a hard time trying to figure out to detach the cable from the pedal assembly. The place where the cable attaches is so hidden by various plates, pawls and springs that there is no access. Also the whole assembly is put together with rivets so there's no easy way of taking it apart. Is there some trick to getting the cable out?
Also, I need to find out exactly where the cable goes through the floor pan. I'm in the process of fixing the rust on this. My 2000 XLT 4x4 and the floor pan and rockers were so rusted that there was no evidence of where the cable went through the floor pan! I assume it's supposed to go through the channel right next to the inner rocker but where exactly? A simple measurement from the back edge of the A-pillar is all I need.
I have an 08 Sonata that just failed inspection due to the parking brake not holding. With the lever full up the E brake doesn't stop the vehicle at idle.
The rear wheels have disc brakes. How do I adjust the cable to remove the slack. I believe there's a center drum so I suspect there's a star wheel that must be adjusted. If so, which way does the star wheel need to turn, up or down. Is it the same direction on both the left and and right side of the vehicle?
I bought a 2006 Sonata V6 3.3L with 137k on it about a month ago. Engine and Trans is great, but I noticed an issue that developed within the past week and a half or so.
I am one to always engage the parking brake when parked, to relieve pressure on the parking paw in the transmission. After about a week of heavy use of the parking brake, I began to hear a slight 'clunk, clunk, clunk' coming from the rear passenger wheel (it actually sounded like something was loose in the trunk, but ruled it out). The 'clunk' sound at first only happened going over rough or bumpy roads, but within the past week or so it's gotten louder and more consistent. It now 'clunks' regardless of speed or road surface.
I used the parking break today for the first time while the car was in motion, and when pulled it sqreached very loud, didn't really stop the car, but the 'clunk' became very loud while the break was pulled - shockingly loud, actually.
A couple of days ago I took the rear passenger tire off while jacked up, and spun the wheel. With neither the parking or regular breaks engaged, the wheel made a 'clunk' sound very similar to that it makes on the road. Took of the Tire/Rim and spun the Rotor, to hear the same sound. Attempted to wiggle the Rotor and found no play at all.
At first, the clunk went away when you pressed the floor board brake pedal, even just a slight bit stopped the noise. Now it doesn't seem to stop it any longer.
My main idea is that the parking brake in the Rotor is the culprit, given that the issues didn't arise until I started using the parking brake - and the fact that brake appears to not work very well. However, my dad tells me he thinks it's a wheel bearing. I don't think it is - as its not making any metal on metal sounds, nor is it very difficult to rotate the Rotor while jacked up.
How to replace the parking brake cable from the pedal down to the connector on the frame? We got a 2000 F350 in the shop with a bad cable, and i never did one. And I don't really want to mess this thing up trying to figure out how to change it.
View 6 RepliesSo here it is, who out there with a 2012 SCREW can tell me how their rear parking brake cable is routed around the axle? The reason I ask is mine is routed under the axle and that just seems like a really screwy design. I would think any time the rear suspension was unloaded it could have the potential to engage the parking brake by the axle pushing down on the cable. My father has a 2014 and his isn't routed that way. I've also looked at a lot of pictures on the internet and haven't found any photos that show the cable routed under either. Is something off on mine, or is mine routed correctly and I just have not found any pictures that show it routed the same as mine?
View 1 RepliesSo my May 2007 V6 Sonata with 143,000 km (89k miles) had the red parking brake light come on. Master cylinder level was low and there was evidence of something leaking on the driveway. Below the very back of the driver seat.
At the dealership they say I've got a leak in my brake lines. Say that the fuel lines should be replaced too since they are in the same compartment. So if one goes the other may not be far behind.
I was out of town and the car couldn't be driven safely so I was pretty much stuck there.When the dealership did the work a rusted bolt snapped near the fuel tank and they said that added an additional hour of labour to the work. In the end I wasn't charged for it. Tech said he had never seen a Sonata have the brake lines rust out like that. I got the brake and fuel lines done cause I plan on owning it for 6+ years.
What is the procedure to remove the parking brake cable from the axle? It looks like the cable has a locking device like the fuel lines but heavier. How do you get that thing out of there without destroying it?
View 9 RepliesI'm re-doing the parking brake as part of a rear brake job on my 2009 F250. I need to disconnect the intermediate brake cable at the equalizer, but am having trouble. I've got slack in the cable, but can't push hard enough to get the swaged cable end to move within the connector that's between the equalizer cable and the intermediate cable.
Is there a special tool or some trick to this? If push comes to shove, I can cut the connector (assuming I can get a replacement), but would rather not.
Also, any particular trick to disconnecting the cable to the parking brake lever at the wheel? With that huge spring between the cable bracket and the end of the lever, I haven't been able to move the cable end enough to disconnect it from the lever. Since I don't have the intermediate cable disconnected, could that have something to do with it?
I'm working on an '05 F350 King Ranch dually, and I'm pretty sure the pb cable is stretched. I recently replaced the shoes in the pb assembly and adjusted the tension while I was in there, but it still barely holds. My next culprit sounds like a stretched cable, and I have a complete set for a new one, but I'm having a hell of a time getting the old one out. The link that holds the front and intermediate cables together won't pry open with any tool I have, and I've broken two drill bits trying to drill out the nub holding the front cable in.
View 5 RepliesI have a problem with the steering. Sometimes a clicking noise is coming out from the front left side when I sharply turn the wheels or hit the brake. The car was in a local garage today and they couldn't find the problem. 2 mechanics checked the suspension, cv joint, axle, wheel bearing... also 1 of them driven the car and found nothing. Tomorrow I show them the clip below.
Hyundai Sonata Steering Noise - YouTube ....
What it could be?
I'm suspecting a small valve cover gasket leak. I've noticed dirt starting to accumulate near the alternator side of the front valve cover, there is dirt on there stuck to oil, I don't see any wet oil but its so minor the dirt just sticks to it. 107k miles here. Seems to be a common problem. I think Downhiller had a large oil leak, source unknown around his crank pulley area. You wouldn't think a car this young would leak oil. It's not bad, I havn't had to top any off I just like a mildly clean engine.
View 38 RepliesMy son parked the car and I noticed the brake lights were on. After depressing and releasing the pedal a few times the lights go off, then 2 or 3 seconds later, they're back on even when the pedal is released. This happened all of a sudden. I'll pull the switch in the morning and test it, but what else could it be but the switch, right?
View 1 RepliesMy parking brake light came on while driving. The car would coast at a low speed OK, so I think the brake was not on.
This happened in Yellowstone National Park at altitudes above 7,600 ft. and happened 4,000 miles ago and hasn't happened since. Taking the car in for an oil change today and I am going to ask about it.
My vehicle: 2013 Sonata Limited - 4500 mi. When I park on an incline, set the parking brake then release the foot brake, hear a 'creaking' noise from rear. Dealer says "it's normal and nothing can be done" ? I don't think so...
View 6 RepliesWhenever I park on an incline whether it's upward or downward the car seems to roll about an inch or so after engaging the parking brake and then taking my foot slowly off the brakes. When I engage the parking brake I have the transmission set in neutral so the weight of the car doesn't put stress on it.
View 26 RepliesHad my car parked outside of work for about 12 hours yesterday, and in the NYC cold front, the parking break must have stuck on slightly. When I started to move, despite the fact I'd released the parking break, I received a warning in the MFI that said PARKING BREAK FAILURE TO RELEASE. I pulled the handle again and heard it pop just a little more off. Everything worked great after that. If I hadn't received the alert I probably would have driven off with it on. I'd probably have noticed the hesitation and checked the break again, but the alert was useful. Some of the warnings in the MFI can appear to be a pain at times, but it's amazing how thorough a job VW has done monitoring the cars systems and giving real time information if something doesn't work. You just have to make sure you don't get info overload from it all!!
View 4 Replies