When I accelerate from a stop, the car jumps, slows down, jumps again, etc... I do hear a noise when I accelerate rapidly on the highway, almost like a leak somewhere, but I'm not really sure.
View 3 RepliesNotice roughness/jumpiness in the transmission when slowing to a stop, or crawling along (like in a shopping center)? it's quite evident on my car, and perhaps i just have a problem that nobody else feels.
It's as if the tranny is downshifting when slowing to a stop, and I can really feel it...makes it difficult to come to a smooth stop. and then if I'm moving very very slowly in heavy traffic, it seems to be "wandering" between 1st & 2nd...something like that...and it's very jumpy. Not smooth at all.
I realize that Lexus may come up with some reprogramming for trannies (that happened on my '01 GS, and it made a big difference).
While pushing the gas pedal for acceleration from stop I feel the engine grunts more and then on its smooth. I don't have any lag in acceleration the car moves well. The car is 2008 Sonata 4 Cyl. the mileage is 137000. Is this normal for this mileage or something wrong. When I asked the service center guys, they replied they don't find any issues and everything is fine. It might be due to the mileage on the engine.
View 5 RepliesI picked up my first GTI about 3 months ago, a 2011 Autobahn with about 35,000 miles. I love the way it drives. I had been admiring them from a distance, and was finally able to pick one up. Unfortunately, I've run into a few issues. I'm pretty much a rookie when it comes to the inner workings of cars, but I'm eager to get into it more. My issue is below:
Over the last few weeks, the car has been consistently a little sluggish, and the acceleration has seemed a bit jumpy. I've only used premium gas, and I've been looking for simple things that might be the issue. I live in Houston, and I was wondering if maybe the extreme heat and humidity might be the reason behind the sluggish performance.
Yesterday, I decided I would clean the air intake filter. It has a K&N intake from the previous owner. After cleaning the filter and replacing it, the car wouldn't start. I may have put too much oil on the filter or the humidity may have just caused it to take longer to dry than the instructions on the cleaning kit recommend.
I called my bro-in-law who is the go-to car guy in our family. He recommended that I try starting the engine without the air filter and pull out the MAF sensor and check it out. When I took off the filter, the car started fine. I replaced the filter, then also pulled the MAF sensor to see if it needed to be cleaned. I found that the bottom of the MAF sensor was bent and slightly dented. I could also see a place where the sensor had scratched the bottom of the pipe.
This morning, the car is running a little smoother (better than before, but not as quick as I remember), but the check engine light has come one. Could the performance issues be due to the damage to the MAF sensor? With the check engine light, is that something that is automatically triggered by removing the MAF sensor? Or is there some other issue.
I'm planning to mention this to the dealer when I get my first oil change, but I've been wondering if this is normal for the 2.0T. When stopping at a red light for example and the car downshifts through 2nd and to 1st, it gets very choppy - almost jumpy as it comes to a stop. Seems like I really have to concentrate to make a perfectly smooth stop.
View 7 RepliesI brought my truck to ford because I thought I was having transmission issues, but they are telling me that my transmission is fine, that I need to replace my number 8 injector. None of these symptoms sound like injector issues:
-Shifting from park to reverse, takes a couple seconds to shift, then jumps.
-Coming to a very slow stop, truck is a little jumpy at around 2-3 mph
I noticed twice yesterday when I was accelerating from an intersection, going into 2nd gear (or 3rd depending on how short 1st is) it feels like it slips into neutral and I lose acceleration. If I take my foot off the gas and coast for a moment then re-apply acceleration, it goes on as normal without any problems.
66k miles... Owned it for 2 years and have had no other issues and have only taken it in for oil changes.
Am I correct in assuming the ATF is supposed to be good for the life of the vehicle?
More lately I've been noticing that when moving slowly, if going over a bump in the road of any sort, the steering wheel seems loose and the car wants to jump to one side or another slightly.
Picture moving straight ahead, and hit a rough section of or a small pot hole, and the steering wheel will move by itself to the left or the right quite a bit. I haven't noticed anything on the highway.
What can cause that? How should I go about describing to the service advisor so that it doesn't seem trivial? Last thing I want is a steering rack or major front suspension component slowly dying right after my warranty runs out. All I know is that it has struck me as "hey this doesn't feel normal".
Am I just being overly sensitive now that my powertrain warranty has months left on the clock, or does this sound like a legitimate concern? The last few things I've had them look into at the dealership during other service visits have been returned to me as "no problem founds" and I'm starting to feel like I'm just going crazy.
After some additional googling, it seems like I'm describing something commonly called "bump steer"... how much bump steer is normal for this car with stock suspension, I don't know... all I know is that I seem to have become acutely attuned to it whereas I never noticed it before. Hopefully I don't get the "we didn't notice anything wrong" again if I mention it, and whatever it is, is covered.
I bought my 2006 Prius used and I had just put it over 100,000 miles. The dearlership has replaced the HV battery under warranty and suggest that I replace a slightly leaking waterpump and cracked belt, said nothing about the transmission.
My concern is, my transmission. When the car switches from electric to the gas engine, the car jumps a little bit, and it's an obvious and not smooth shift. And when I put it in Park, the vehicle rocks back and forth a bit, shifting a few inches before coming to a still position. Is this standard with other 2006 Prius? I drove my friends 2007 Prius and the shift seems smooth and it doesnt rock when you put it in park. Should I be concerned and if so what should I do?
I have a 2010 Sonata GLS 4-cylinder approximately 124K miles which has been hesitating on hard accelerations for about 8 months. It will usually do this when getting on an on-ramp for the freeway or if I need to do a U-turn and get up to speed quickly. What happens is I punch the gas and the vehicle acts as if it's not getting any gas and hesitates or stalls and then it finally takes off. Usually I see a cloud of grey/white smoke behind the car enough that I am unable to see any cars in my rear view mirror.
I do not seem to see a difference when the vehicle is warm/cold. I do not have a CEL nor have had one. I have replaced the MAP sensor, PCV valve and spark plugs (properly gapped). I have done a compression test and am getting roughly 180-185 psi per cylinder. I am not experiencing any oil loss/coolant loss, do not see any oil in the coolant or gummed-up or oily spark plugs. I have also replaced the transmission fluid, doing a drain and flushing the torque converter. I have also cleaned the throttle body, and am using a new air filter and the oil has been changed within the past 1000 miles.
My 2005 3.3 V6 NF Elite has developed a vibration under acceleration. Its not always apparent, but certain road surfaces, and certain rates of acceleration seem to make it worse, when it can be felt throughout the car. The drivers side CV is beginning to click, so will need replacing soon, and I suspect that some bushings around the suspension are worn, as they are squeaking. Could those issues cause such a vibration.
View 5 RepliesMy 2010 Sonata GLS recently started to emitting some noise during acceleration, seemingly come from under the hood. The noise is most noticeable between 15-25 MPH, and is more noticeable when I go uphill. The noise also becomes more frequent with higher speed.
I have a shared m4a file with the noise recorded on Google Drive [URL] ......
I was cruising on the highway and tried to accelerate and no more power. Could feel engine losing power. After I shutdown the car and start again, car was fine.
View 3 RepliesStill getting used to my 2010 2.4 Sonata>Seems hard to get gradual acceleration when I depress gas pedal,instead I get Jack rabbi t take offs ,I wonder if linkage needs to be adjusted.
View 12 RepliesI've got a Sonata NF 3.3L I bought for my first car. Bought the car second hand with 119,000km's. Runs really well but in the last few months there has been a rough sound on acceleration. Sort of like a ticking noise. Doesn't matter if it's warmed up or not. At cruise speeds you can't hear it. What it could be? Ran some injector cleaner through it to no avail.
View 2 RepliesMy car has been vibrating under acceleration since past 2 months. It isn't present in first gear but is evident in second and third gear ,and increases with more acceleration. I replaced engine mounts as they were shot,and got the wheels balanced but the vibration still persists
View 6 RepliesI have a 2008 Hyundai Sonata GLS 2.4L with 131,000 miles on it. When I accelerate from a stop, there is a buzzing/rattling/grinding noise coming from the engine bay of my car. It's really hard to describe, there is a definite buzzing sound, but also almost like there is a bolt rattling around and banging into things. This only happens for a couple of seconds. It also seems to be worse when I'm accelerating up hill. If I accelerate slowly from a stop, the noise does not occur, and it also does not occur if I accelerate while I'm already moving.
View 4 Replies2007 Sonata V6. He's spent many hours and a good chunk of change at the dealership trying to get it fixed and nothing has worked yet. They honestly have no clue whats wrong which kinda scares me.
First off here is his problem. Occasionally when he starts the car it will idle very rough and struggles to accelerate to 30-40mph. When this happens he pulls over and shuts the car off for a few minutes then it will run fine again. When all of this happens there is no CEL or any light at all that flashes or comes on the dash.
Here is a list of things that have been replaced
Fuel pump
Throttle position sensor
Crank sensor
Plugs, wires and coil pack
My 2006 lexus gs 300 has this annoying issue where if i would accelerate with light throttle from a complete stop, the car would kick and sort of shake.. This happens the most and basically every time when i would slow down at a stop sign with using the brakes, then let go of the brakes and accelerate again, the car would feel like it has some sort of throttle delay and then you feel a heavy push/kick like the wheels are confused..
View 14 Replies2006 sonata 3.3L has an engine miss that is most prominent around 30 mph but not detectable at idle or during acceleration. It has new plugs that are properly gapped. Transmission fluid is good and fresh. I even checked the ignition coils and had all about .9. I even changed the fuel filter. What else could it be?
View 7 RepliesCheck engine light came on momentarily, car had poor acceleration. Light went out and ESC light came on. When the car was turned off and restarted, the ESC light went out.
I scanned the engine, no codes, either open, pending or historical.
Question, could the issues with the two lights be related? Or is there anything else I should check?