Sonata NF (2006-10) :: Jumping Into Drive From Reverse
Dec 1, 2010
I bought a 2009 Sonata V6 this past August. Immediately I had shifting problems. I asked my mechanic and he found the TSB. I took it to Hyundai and they took care of the TSB. The shifting problems stopped, but it is STILL literally JUMPING out of reverse when I'm going into drive. Dealer said they could not reproduce the problem.
I am a Toyota driver, and chose the Sonata based on price. So far, I am not impressed and plan to return to Toyota when this one is paid off. But, in the meantime, I want this car fixed, but the dealer acts like there is nothing wrong. I have warranty for another 25,000 miles....
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So I have a 2006 2.4 sonata with a transmission whine only when pressing on the gas in drive or reverse. I just flushed and replaced the fluid and it is at the correct level. What I want to know is since the transmission has in internal filter, is it possible for me to clean it out to get rid of the whining sound?
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I am working on my friends 2008 Sonata with the 3.3 V6. They brought the car to me saying that it was screeching when turning the wheel. So I took a look at it and when you turn the wheel one way it would make a screeching noise and the belt would try to jump off of the tensioner. I assume the tensioner is bad, but now I am wondering if it is a crank pulley problem.
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So I have a 06 350 and I'm getting clunking from drive to reverse and now with drive too, I know my rear diff is on it's last days but I am wondering if that could cause the clunking and now my truck around 90km shakes likes crazy and same thing wana know if that's the diff. And if I was to fix diff myself would it not just be easier for me to just swap axles if I wanted to be cheap??
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Is it bad shifting from drive to neutral then back to drive going 40mph without pressing on the gas only coasting on a daily bases?
2008 Sonata GLS ... Automatic transmission ...
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I have 2011 Sonata with just over 3500 miles on it. About three weeks ago I was driving down the road going about 45 mph when my sonata jerked like I had hit a pothole. I pulled over and checked it out and saw that I had not hit anything. When I put the car in reverse it jerked, and when I put it in drive the car bucked badly. After that, it had almost no acceleration as if it didn't want to get out of first or second gear. I took it to the dealership and they were able to recreate the problem and called it an "Intermittent Hard Shifting Transmission."
They told me they had to replace the transmission, which they did. After they replaced it they said the car was still hard shifting. So they replaced the transmission again, and again the problem persisted. Yesterday they told me they were ordering a brand new transmission, blaming the problem on the fact that the previous transmissions were re-manufactured.
I'm waiting to hear back after they install this "new" transmission. Maybe the third time's the charm, but this seems ridiculous.
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While trying to troubleshoot a suspension noise (knock on potholes and when changing from drive to reverse) I found my outer tie rod end to have alot of play. This is similar on both passenger and driver sides.
Is this normal? I couldn't see any other issues with the other components including the bushings.
Tie rod end noise - YouTube
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So recently I took in the sonata to get the inhibitor switch replaced at the dealership (faulty switch causes loss of the gear indication and the car doesn't move when in gear). After getting the car back, it now buzzes when I put it into reverse or drive. It never did this before. Is this normal after getting the inhibitor switch changed and if it will go back to normal after a while.
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Owning a Lexus . I recently bought an '06 model GS300 and have just had an issue appear with it.
Issue is that, whether in drive or reverse, the car accelerates on its own - not very quickly, but quickly enough that it'll crash me into my garage door if I'm not careful.
What this could be? Variously, I've read that it could be a Throttle Positioning Sensor, or Idle Air Control valve. Some things I've read suggest it could be air conditioning related (though I don't understand that one...).
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Vehicle was repaired after front end collision and I get no codes found on scanner, had some bad connectors which I replaced and codes went away. I don't get ready light and the dash lights do not cycle off (ABS, SRS, Check engine, Etc. Etc.) The car will shift into neutral but not drive or reverse. Has new Aux battery and Hybrid battery is showing two bars. What to check ?
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I have a 2006 Chevy cobalt and am currently stranded with my husband. Last night as we were about to head home from visiting family 3hrs away, we got off at an exit and as we were stopping about to go again because the light turned green, the car stalled. We had to start it a bunch of times just to get it to the nearest gas station about an eighth of a mile down the road. The message on the dashboard said "engine power reduced". We looked up that message online and a few posts said to disconnect the battery. We did that a few times but when we went to go, it kept doing what it did before, stalling. We were almost to the road and decided we weren't going to make it so we put it in reverse and it drove just fine back to a parking spot. Why it would stall idling and in drive but not in reverse? We are baffled and currently waiting on a tow.
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I have a 2008 HYUNDAI SANTA FE 2.2 CRTD CDX MANUAL. It jumps when reversing, especially when turning in reverse. Is this normal or is there a fault?
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I have a 2008 GS350. Been having brake clicking when I move from reverse to drive and lately been happening more when driving regularly. Brought it in to Lexus to get the complimentary 19-point inspection and they said I needed new brake pads and rotors. I did do a search and found it can be issues with front spindles, sway bar, bushings.
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I have a 2006 Hyundai Azera Limited, 3.8 with 5 speed automatic; car has 139K miles. I am noticing a small 'click' noise when putting the transmission in Drive or Reverse, and sometimes when accelerating from a dead stop. Car otherwise drives beautifully - the 'click' doesn't seem to affect driving it. The CV's don't make a clatter if accelerating at full wheel lock, which is usually the tell-tale for bad CV's. Is this something simple? My thoughts are:
1.) Somehow it's a CV joint. Grayson Hyundai said they're 'shot' but I think I would notice more than a brief click? They said a whole bunch of other things were wrong on their 'inspection', said the brakes were 'shot' because the rotors had rust on them... I don't trust that opinion.
2.) A motor mount or transmission mount. Seems more likely since would be most noticeable with torque.
3.) Something in the suspension. The car has new tie rod ends, but there may be something else worn/loose that I'm not aware of.
4.) Maybe I am just being too picky. The car drives awesome!
Maybe I'm overreacting, I just don't want some sort of catastrophic failure to occur.. The car still feels very robust, solid, and overall quite healthy..
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I was once the proud owner of a 2006 Prius with 106,716 miles on it. Never missed a regularly scheduled service. Now, I am no longer proud, but just another owner of a Prius with a failed transaxle.
Last week, I parked my car on my way to work and, while the car was idling in park, the Triangle of Death (red with exlamation mark within) came up on the dashboard. The car went into limp mode -- it was unable to shift into drive or reverse -- so I had it towed to Darcars in Silver Spring, MD. They thought the original 12v battery was dead, so they replaced it.
P0AA6 -- 526 and 613 codes 600 miles after Transaxle Fluid Replacement...
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I have a 2008 Elantra GLS. I am getting a code of P0750. Seloniod A fault. I have checked wiring harness for critter bites all looks good. If I clear the code the transmission shifts normal until it is shut off like overnight. I also have been noticing that it idles around 1100RPM to 1300RPM and it does drop into gear harder (reverse or drive). This high idle started before the P0750 code.
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I've got a 2006 F250 6.0 5R110W 4wd 220,000 miles It started getting a slight delay going into reverse and tow light flashing last week. all else functioning perfect Got a pending code P0700 and P0741 I stopped at NAPA when I was leaving no reverse checked every thing all was normal no leaks and fluid good color drove perfect in drive I got back to the shop [10 miles] put truck in park it was like its still in drive same with neutral, in reverse it wants to creep forward.
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I have a 2006 Sonata LX 3.3 V6 automatic and the car will not go in reverse. The car has 175K and runs like a dream. Drove today and everything was fine. Tonight it wouldn't go in reverse. The engine just revs like it's in neutral. The car works fine in all forward gears.
The + is lit up on the shifter and the "-" is not. I just thought the light was burnt out. I have checked the Tranny fluid and it appears ok. There is no noises or anything. The transmission is quiet. Is there a relay, fuse or some electronic component I should be checking?
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I have a problem with my reverse in a 5 speed 105 hp Tdi. It jumps out of place when i try to move the car, makes a loud grinding noise and pops back in, I'm guessing the selectors are worn or maybe the teeth are too. My question is, how hard is it to replace the selectors (if it is the selectors that are worn of course), what is the cost of getting it done in the shop and most important does this sign mean I will have the same problems with the rest of the gear in nearby future?
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When I drive on a hot day the engine overheads; it almost red-lines. This occurs mostly when I drive up long steep hills (I live in the mountains) with the AC on, but even without the AC on very long steep hills (5+ miles) the engine will overheat badly. I can go over a hill and head downhill or flat and things return to normal quickly. I can also drive with the AC on doing 0-80 mph on a flat road and everything is fine all the time.
- Fan is working
- Thermostat has been replaced
- Radiator flushed
- Engine coolant temp sensor replaced
- Heat is working
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Today after work I cranked up the car (06 sonata) and walked around the car as I always do to check that all lights are good. I found the passenger side brake light out (wasnt' out this morning) so I drove 1/4 mile to autozone and got a replacement. Cranked back up and all is good so I jump on the highway and about 3 miles later the ECS & ABS lights come on the dash. Do I not have brakes? so I lightly push the brakes and the car slows down but I don't see the red from the 3rd brake light. I jump off at the next exit to see what's going on. I pull into a shell station and put the car in park but in won't go in park, only neutral? So I put it in neutral and set the parking brake, get out too look at the rear lights. The lights were on but when I pressed the brakes they did not get brighter nor did the 3rd brake light come on. Got back on the highway, drove the car straight home avoiding braking while on the interstate. I had to stick my key inside that little release thing to get the car in park, so now it's stuck in park. The car will stay parked until I can get it towed to the dealer, which probably won't be until Monday/Tuesday because on the holidays.
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