Sonata NF (2006-10) :: Intermittent Starting - Battery Already Replaced?
Aug 3, 2012
I need to replace my girlfriend's starter on her 2006 Sonata 3.3 V6. Her car is having the intermittent starting thing that i noticed some others are. We've already replaced the battery and the starter relay. The relay worked for a while but the car is back to having issues intermittently again. I figured I'd replace the starter now(with a new starter solenoid on it). Also, while I'm doing this I'll check for any loose or rusty grounds.
So, I've peeked under the hood and tried to follow the battery cables to find the starter but I haven't been able to find it. Is it under something? Do I need to remove the battery?
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Last week Wed my vehicle was not starting. Some lights would start to come on and then die out. I read the forums here and replaced the traditional battery. Perfect, started right up and no issues. Today, went to bring the kids to school and it did not start up. No messages, a few lights like before and it went dark. Is this an engine issue. I have not tried to jump the new battery yet as it is pulled forward in my garage. (Today being Tuesday and not even a week into my new battery). I looked around, nothing was left on so what is happening. It has just short of 80,000 miles on it.
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I have a recently purchased 2005 Prius- Mileage-150.3k having several lights on the dash: ABS/VSC/Engine Check/ Brakes, etc. See attached screen shot. Initially, I got into the shop and had the codes read out several codes. In all, I was informed the root cause was a bad 12v and bad hybrid batteries. By this time , the car was still moving, though not very smoothly. however, less than a week thereafter, the car couldn't start again.
We decided to replace the 12v first, hoping to get it back to start but it wouldn't. I've checked the fuses in the engine compartment as well as on the steering column- all okay. I've checked battery voltage, it's now at 12.3v. When I try to start, the Ready light would simply flash for 2-3 seconds before going off. I've rechecked battery connections as well as the brake controls by the 12v battery- all well tightened.
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A few weeks ago, my battery died, got a new one, ran fine for a week. Then wanted to go to work a a few days ago, turn the key and heard nothing, took the starter out, got a new one and put it in (used-but I took it apart and it looked fine) Once I put that in was excited to have my car back, but same thing, not even a sound coming from the starter, doesn't even try. Thought it might be a fuse problem, checked everyone that might have to do with the engine...and they all looked fine.
Something with the relays perhaps? I haven't checked those yet. A ground issue? I'm so lost right now.
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So I got up this morning and my car wouldn't start. It was turning over, kinda. Figured it was a problem with the battery. So I pulled the battery out of my car, took it to the local O'Rileys, they confirmed the batter was dead and sold me a new one. Put the new battery in the car, and it still won't start. The car turns over just fine now, but it won't fire.
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2006 Prius, 114K miles. In the last week started getting the intermittent warning of "There is a problem with the parking transmission lock. Place the car on a flat surface and fully set the parking brake." Car would not start, would only go into neutral. All accessories work fine, seems to be plenty of 12V power. Did a lot of research and determined that the most likely cause was a failing 12V battery. Used the diagnostic mode to check voltages, had 12.1 at "READY", 11.6 under auxiliary loads, and 14.1 with engine on (I did get the car to start eventually but can't figure out how and under what set of circumstances it would start).
So I ordered a 12V battery and replaced it. After replacing, I still had the Hybrid warning light, but after stopping and starting the car 3 times it went away. Car worked fine for a day but now the intermittent warning has returned. With the warning on, the parking lock seems to be fully engaged (car won't roll even on a slope).
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I have a 2006 Chevy Malibu Maxx with under 100,000 miles. Battery 1 year old, starter 3 months old. On cool or cold mornings I have intermittent starting issues. All lights come on, instrument panels gauges and indicators function right, no clicking or any noise. Just won't start. Typically if I come back in a couple of hours, it starts right up. Once it starts, I have no other starting problem with it the rest of that day.
On Christmas eve morning it wouldn't start. It didn't start for 2 days. I jumped it and got it started once, but after revving it and sriving it for 10 minutes I turned it off and tried to start it again - but couldn't. I wouldn't even jump after that. 2 days later, I had it towed to a shop where they removed the starter and greased the connections - and it started. They then sent it over to a Chevy dealer who checked all the codes (It never turns up any codes when it doesn't start) - but since there were none, they flashed the computer and started it 20+ times - no problems. They sent it back to the shop who also started it a bunch of times with no problems. They sent it back to me and it worked for another week or so before it started happening again.
It is not every morning - only random mornings. Except for that one day, it will always start later on in the day.
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I recently replaced the battery for my 2007 Lexus GS 350 and the AC stopped working. The AC button on the panel says "check air conditioner connection. The Audio button also says Audio off, although the ML is working, but It also doesn't show the channel.
I have checked the fuses and they seem to be ok. I purchased this car used under a year ago and everything was working fine until battery change.
The only modification previous owner has made is an iSimple to listen and o iPod from the car stereo. I have seen others on this forum having same symptoms when newly installed iSimple. Removing iSimple fixed their problem.
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I have a 2007 GLS. Within the past year I had about 4 or 5 difficult starts. Just recently I got a CEL with cod P0011. I replaced the OCV as that is the usual culprit. Within 6 miles of clearing the CEL, I am still getting the same CEL. I am wondering if the problem is either the wiring harness or the Camshaft Position Sensor.
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I have a 2006 F150 STX auto trans with the 4.2L V6 that has been having intermittent starting problems. It has 98,000 miles on it. It will start fine 99% of the time but sometimes when I turn the key the starter will grind once or twice then it can go a few weeks with out doing it at all. Then also sometimes it will crank turning over for several seconds but wont start. Then it starts fine the rest of the time. This has happened several times but only happens once every few weeks or so. Just trying to see if it needs a new starter or if its something else. It has a new battery.
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2006 Toyota Prius 93000 miles
On 3/8/13 my Prius would not start. I read some information online and came to the conclusion I needed a new battery.
I started the car, and it immediately started up. I drove it for a very short time and parked it in the garage.
Today I started the car and drove it for about 5 minutes to a restaurant. I did some shopping and about 3 hours later I started the car and A Big Red Triangle appeared along with a yellow circle with an exclamation point in the center and the check engine light.
I immediately drove it to the Toyota Dealer 5 blocks away.
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My 2006 2.0T Passat is starting to give me the steering column errors. I've seen a couple people saying that the problem was rectified by a new battery. Seeing the car is out of warranty and this would be the 6th winter for the battery, I think it's probably good idea to try a new battery to see if it does the trick before going to the dealer. I've never changed a battery before, so what does it all involve? I have a 12V battery from my back up sump pump that I can use to keep the power up when I change the battery. I imagine that I'll just connect the back up battery to the leads, then disconnect the old battery, pull it out, put in the new battery, connect the leads to the new battery, and disconnect the back up battery. Does this sound reasonable? Is there a bolt(s) securing the battery in place that needs to be loosened before I can pull the old battery out of the bay?
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I just replaced the original serpentine belt at 95k miles (more preventative than anything) and now it's squeaking. Does this mean I have to replace the tensioner?
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So just to sum it up. Past few days I had been hearing a grinding/clicking noise from my left front tire. I had an accident on that side a few months back. Went to the mechanic and they said it is most probably the wheel bearing and possible the hub also.
They took it apart and changed the wheel bearing. After two days of getting the wheel bearing changed the noise is back. It is not nearly as loud but it is definitely there.
What it could be? Could it be the hub itself? I have a 07 Sonata with 100k+ miles on it
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My engine started overheating, and because I was stuck on a bridge during rush hour (George Washington Bridge in NYC), I couldn't get stop the car. I drove it for approximately 30 min (slow crawl), and this happened: [URL] .....
Yes, I know how stupid it is, but there was not even a shoulder to pull over to the side. The only good thing is that this happened pretty much soon as Igot off the bridge, and not on the bridge.
Hose by the radiator cap (is that the overflow hose?) popped out and spewed steam for good 5 minutes. The car did not start at this point. I left the car by the gas station after the bridge, and came back later on in the night. It started and I was able to drive it home (about 10 min away) at crawl speed without it reaching the red zone.
Today, I just did the oil change, topped off on the coolant, and also replaced the thermostat. But the engine still overheats (to the red). The upper radiator hose is burning hot and the bottom radiator hose is not. Also, the fan is working, but it blows out pretty hot air.
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Usually in the morning after starting the car, when I put the car into reverse the car stalls. I start it up again and it works fine. It has been doing this for a few months. When I went to get oil change they said I needed to replace battery so I did. Problem is still there. It has done this twice when I try to take off from a red light. I have no check engine lights either. My car has 105,000 miles but cannot really afford to buy a new car at the moment.
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2007 with 3.3L at 30k miles (bought new and with regular oil changes) starting throwing p0018's intermittently. No noticeable difference in way the car drives: idle seems fairly normal (only once recently felt the idle briefly stumble at a red light), fuel consumption regular, no power problems. There has been a engine tapping sound at low speeds only heard until the engine warms up after a couple of miles (I'm in Florida, temp is regular in the 70-80's), and the sound is not evident during the start-up, only while accelerating slowly.
On occasion, with hard acceleration, the "ESC 0ff" light comes on, not affected by the ESC off switch, and stays off after one key turn.
Brought to Hyundai dealer who, same day, requested doing an oil/filter change (Firestone had done a change 900 miles/3 months prior) claiming that a wrong oil filter could cause blocked oil galleys. They did the change (and also, no charge, repaired a valve cover leak) and 6 days later called to tell me the car was fine. No mention of the car having been low on oil or evidence of sludging. Also, no mention of whether or not the filter that was replaced was the incorrect filter for the vehicle. (I called Firestone and they claim they regular work with Hyundai to ensure proper filters are used). No mention of why they kept the car for an additional 5 days after the oil change before calling either (except for repairing the valve cover leak with a rocker cover gasket), and although their invoice indicated that they drove the car 5 miles, it was evident from the invoice that the mile in/miles out were the same. I did notice that there was about 2-3 gallons of fuel consumption though when I picked the car up.
6 miles from the dealer after pickup (2 key turns) CEL returns, with same code. I have now driven the car about 100 miles in the last 20 days with the CEl going off and on 4 times now, and each time the same code. I have never had the CEL come on (or go off) while driving, only at start-up. (Longest trip has been 10 miles, top speed 50mph, so a lot of key turns). The longest the CEL has stayed off was for a 30 mile span. The tapping sound mentioned above continues too.
I'm hesitating returning to the dealer. The 10 yr warranty might be a problem for a variety of reasons, and I realise finding the fix for this code could get expensive. But I do want to know what the dealer found out doing their GDS (and via eyes on inspection) and nothing was mentioned on the invoice besides the gasket leak. I'm especially concerned about the timing chain and tensioner.
Is it acceptable to make an appointment with the service manager to find out what they ruled out (and then take that information to a regular mechanic)? Given the problem is regularly intermittent over the last 100 miles, is it still possible that something might be seriously wrong with the engine and damage might be done to the engine by driving it? When I first brought the car to the dealer, they said they couldn't do anything with it because the CEL had gone out. Fortunately, within a mile from the dealer the CEL returned and they took it in. Presently, the light is out again.
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This is a 2006 Hyundai Sonata w/ 3.3 engine. 62,000 mi. The air bag warning light on dash comes on and goes off intermittently.
What causes this? What can I check? Is there really a problem?
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My daughter has a 2010 Sonata with a 4 cylinder and an automatic transmission. She is pretty frustrated with an intermittent problem. Every once in awhile, especially if the engine is cold, the car jerks while slowing down. She believes it is the transmission when it down shifts. I have driven the car and have not been able to duplicate the problem myself. The dealer recently changed the mapping for the transmission in hopes that would work but it hasn't. The dealer hasn't been able to duplicate the condition either.
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I have a 2010 Sonata GLS that isn't starting. I have full battery and plenty of gas. It doesn't click or anything, but all of the lights and electrical equipment work fine. Is there a common problem with this car that causes it not to start?
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About a week or two ago, when driving home, my battery light flicked on while at a stop light. Also, as the light wen t green and I accelerated away, I noticed a kind of 'whine' from the engine, like a turbine spinning up. By the time I got home it was fine again and the light out, and has been until today, when it happened again...I noticed that it happens if I have the AC on and I'm at a stop. If I turn off the AC when waiting at traffic lights, that seems to eliminate the battery light, but I still here the whine.
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