How to replace the belt tensioner. It's not putting out enough tension when the engine is cold. So, the belt makes chirping noise for couple of minutes idling when cold with AC on.
I had the AC inspected and everything checks out according to my mechanic.
He believes that the issue is with the tensioner since I had recently had replaced the serpentine belt.
2006 6.0l ... I've read all over for tips on routing this belt and everyone plays it off as being some simple '20-minute' task. I'm on my 4th hour on this now.
I can't figure out how to route the belt around the tensioner pulley, circled in the picture (from another thread). Everyone glosses over how to do this and I can't figure it out.
It seems like the only way to get it on is to bend the belt and slide it between the pulley and the block, but that I just can't reach the blasted thing.
I had my timing chain tensioner replaced. When they do this do they touch the serpentine belt tensioner? 1000 miles after the timing replaced, my serpentine belt shredded and they say I need a new serpentine belt tensioner. Does this sound correct?
View 3 RepliesAfter finally identifying a bad serpentine belt tensioner for being the the culprit for my engine noises, my mechanic said that the 'thru-bolt' is siezed. Since the replacement job was at my budget limit he said he doesnt want to get into it in fear that he has to brake the bolt and drill it out (requiring 2-3x more labor cost according to him).
If this is the case, and the 'thru-bolt' is seized, is this in any way something I can make a an effort to tackle? I have a jack and jack stands, and plenty of time.
So my mk6 developed what initially sounded initially like a bad serpentine belt tensioner. Only under anything more than load, and sounded like a bird chattering under the hood. Got outside today, fired car up, watched tensioner and it sat there steady as a rail. The noise is coming from the opposite side of the engine. Not really mechanical/metallic at all and tracks under load with the RPMs. Why i initially thought what i did. Not I'm sort of baffled.
View 3 RepliesI installed a new serpentine belt tensioner into my 1994 Chevy Suburban C1500. It vibrated as much as the old one did, so I assumed that a bit of vibration is normal and forgot about it. Well, after recently looking at some instructional videos, I am now under the impression that any vibration in the tensioner is bad. Here is what is going on -- [UrL] .... Is it OK or should I get another new tensioner?
View 4 Replies2002 Camry 4 cyl. Can the idler pulley alone be replaced on the serpentine belt tensioner? I noticed a very slight side to side play when I had the belt off. No noise from it. When I looked at rock auto, they sell the whole bracket with the pulley.
View 2 RepliesMy tensioner pulley is making noise.I replaced the rear idler pulley (can't get to the front one), but still have the noise. Mention a DIY for replacing the tensioner pulley bearing. A part number for the bearing?
View 2 RepliesI've been hearing a slight squeaking near the belt area. It's not continuous. Does it for a second then stops for a second and continues.
I hear it a lot more when I put the heat on through the top window (defroster). Never noticed it until it started getting cold. You think it might just be the belt? Or what?
I have a problem with my 1997 aerostar. There is a squeaking noise that gets more significant when I turn. I am pretty sure this is the drive belt as the power steering fluid is fine. Should I attempt to replace the belt tensioner and if so is it just the pulley that needs replacing or the whole tensioner. I am by no means a mechanic but can figure most things out.
View 5 RepliesI just replaced the original serpentine belt at 95k miles (more preventative than anything) and now it's squeaking. Does this mean I have to replace the tensioner?
View 11 RepliesIs it time to replace? There is a noise coming from the belt and when I listen with the hood up my best guess is that it's the tensioner. I'm not sure if it is easy to replace or if that is even the problem. The belt looks fine. It allows me to twist it barely less than halfway so to me it does not seem loose. But in the rain last week got the battery light and lost power steering, power brakes, etc, then it went back to normal and hasn't failed again since. The car has 131,000 miles.
Is there a way to check the tensioner? It's pretty tight in there. Or am I wrong as to what the problem is? The sound is a rubbing/slight clicking sound that is in time with the engine and you can hear it if you listen inside the car when the engine is on. The belt also seems to wander around on the tensioner just a little. One day it was about a mm in too much, a few days later, a few mm out, in relation to the pulley.
I have a '06 sonata 3.3 v6. Let me first describe what was happening to the car before the noise started. When I first started the car and put the ac, the first time turning the steering wheel in either direction the steering wheel would tighten up and the battery indicator light would come on and the fasten seatbelt light would flash even though I had the belt fastened. It would only happen the first time I would make a turn and after that I could turn with no problem. So in recap, it would only happen on the first turn and only when the ac was on. Now when I start the car up there is a noise coming form the pulley/belt area. I wouldn't classify it as a squeaking noise more like a grinding. I've looked at the belt and it seems to be fine. After I start to drive the car the noise goes away. If I start the car again after a drive within about 2 hours the noise doesn't happen when I start it. What this noise could be? and also could the noise and the steering wheel tightening when the ac is on be connected?
View 1 RepliesI need to replace the serpentine belt on my wife's 2001 Santa Fe 2.7 V6 but I can not seem to figure out how to get the tensioner off.
View 1 RepliesI've replaced the water pump on my Touareg 2009 TDI at 112,000 miles and am trying to fit a new serpentine belt at the same time. I'm stuck because two sensors and their wires are inside the circle of the belt and I seem to have to disconnect the sensors to remove the old belt and fit the new one - this isn't shown is any of the diagrams I have from website and I am wary of just pulling and twisting to disconnect them. I've posted two pics of the sensors - I think one of them is a crankshaft location sensor. How to disconnect them or with fitting the serpentine belt in general would be great. I love my Touareg TDI (bought from new in 2009) and have just started servicing it on my own - I'd like to drive it 300k miles.
View 1 RepliesSix months ago my 2005 Honda Pilot got a new timing belt that was incorrectly calibrated. When the Honda Dealer test drove the car, they damaged the values. They fixed the valve damage and gave me a discount on the timing belt. I considered selling the car, but decided to keep it.
Now it's six months later. When driving I hear a "clicking noise". The dealer says that the timing belt tensioner needs to be replaced and that it would be dangerous to drive it at high speed as it is now. The clicking is caused by a worn ??? tensioner.
They claim that the incorrectly calibrated timing belt could not have caused this problem with the tensioner.
Serpentine belt on a 2006 Honda Odyssey fraying and then ripping into the timing belt causing that belt to break? I recently had this scenario given to me as the cause of my recently replaced timing belt breaking.
View 11 RepliesI am driving a 2015 Sonata with 20,000km (13,000 miles) and the temperature light suddenly came on. I stopped and checked things and could find nothing wrong (oil and coolant OK). I was close to home (less than 1 mile) so drove until light came on again then stopped until it cooled a bit and then home. I thought it must have been the sensor because engine definitely did not appear to be hot.
Once in the garage, I inspected things a little closer and noticed a destroyed serpentine belt--ripped to shreds. Not sure what caused it, but that was the problem. I was afraid of a coolant leak which would have been more serious.
I am deep into replacing the timing belt on my 08 Elantra 2.0, and am nervous about taking the tensioner off since it is not obvious how to set it. I could use a fool proof explanation on how to set the tensioner.
The Haynes manual talks about 1/4 deflection but that seems too imprecise.
I can not see the marks in the video : DIY 2008 Elantra timing belt video 2 of 2 - YouTube
And this post 2008 Elantra Timing Belt does not quite seem to explain. I am contemplating putting it all back together, just changing the accessory belts and handing it to a shop. I could use a fool proof explanation on how to set the tensioner.
Ever hear of a crank pulley failure? Mine did and took out the serpentine belt. I have 63,000 miles on the 07 and it was a big shock to see the pulley in two parts.
View 5 RepliesIs it possible to change the water pump and serpentine belt in a 2006 Toyota Camry with 4 cyl. engine in less than an hour?
View 4 Replies