Sonata NF (2006-10) :: High Rpm Cold Start / Engine Is Knocking
Jun 15, 2011
Recently, our 2009 Sonata jumps to relatively high and not normal RPM when start cold (and I don't mean winter-cold; I mean first start in the morning). It jumps to around 2500 rpm for 3-4 seconds before it goes down to the normal 1200-1300 or so for a cold start.
Also, not sure if this is the normal Sonata engine sound, but when we push the accelerator it sounds like the engine is knocking, almost like a whistle of fuel flowing.
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2005(its NF model) Sonata 2.4 petrol manual. 75000 miles. On cold start makes knocking sound( sound like Diesel). After coupe of minutes when warms up the knocking sound gone.
Also when i start driving( still on cold engine) i hear that sound only when i let go from gas pedal and only in range of 1800-1500 rpm. When i accelerate i don't hear that knocking sound.
I think is not belt tensioner because sound is much longer than couple of sec.
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2006 Sonata LX. It's only on a cold start up and lasts for about 30-45 seconds tops..and then it goes away. Car has 74k on it. Treated well. Only use synthetic oil and no check engine lights. Last oil change I put 5w 30 in it. I know it says to use 5w 20. Could this be the problem?
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My 2009 Sonata 2.4l Sonata has been making a loud knocking noise when it is cold, but it will fade to almost nothing after it warms up. I tried to make a sound clip of the noise, but it was so distorted that I could not even make out the noise on the video.
For some strange reason the noise matches the skipping problem I have been complaining about since the beginning. Yea it's still there. It sounds like it is in the valve system, not the lower end. It leads me to believe it's coming from the valve clearance/ camshaft area.
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Bought my 2006, V6, about 2 months ago. This morning was the first really cold once since I bought the care. When I started it today, the idle speed was about 1200 RPM. It took a few minutes to warm up and then the idle speed dropped to normal. Quick question. Is this normal?
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Has the engine cover on, hear rattling when they first start up their car? It only last about three seconds, and its only from a cold start normally.
I was told not to worry about the sound because its just the engine cover rattling a bit, but it is rather annoying. It makes quite a racket. Should I just take the cover off?
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I recently changed my ATF. I refilled with Hyundai SP-III like a good little boy. The ATF fluid level is correct. It's right in the "Hot" range when the car is idling at operating temp.
Now, when I back out of my driveway when the vehicle is totally cold, then put in Drive, I hear a slight knocking sound after I get about 50 feet away. It's a single knock, not very loud, but discernible. If I drive even 1/2 mile and try again (i.e. back up a bit, then put it back in Drive), I can't reproduce it. It's only when the car is first backed out and driven away.
I have around 15K left on the warranty. I'd feel silly bringing it to the dealer for this, unless someone knew of an issue this might be a symptom of.
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Few days ago I noticed the noise coming from the engine.
Went to dealership. They removed the oil pan and found metal shavings there .The car has 90,000 miles. They will put a new short block (will be covered by warranty ).
Since they basicaly will disassemble the whole engine, I thought to ask them to replace also drive belts, timing chain tensioner, not sure if the short block comes with the water pump , will ask them . W
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I own a 07 Hyundai Sonata Limited with 31000 miles. It is 20 degrees today. When I start the car up there is this knocking sound from the engine. Once the car warms up the knocking sound only happens when the car is in drive or reverse. When the car is in park or neutral it is fairly quiet. The sounds is still there but not as loud as in drive or reverse. I have done the routine synthetic blend oil changes between 3500-4500 miles.
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I have a 2006 Sonata GL, 2.4L, manual transmission, with about 130K miles. It has recently developed a knocking noise. The noise sounds metallic.
Some data: timing chain, guides, tensioner are all new, the noise is not coming from there.
Compression tests on the 4 cylinders came back with 200, 200, 180, and 200 psi readings. Tests were performed 3 different times, same gauge, all numbers came back the same.
The noise comes on only under acceleration (gas is supplied), and even then it's not consistent. For example, accelerating at 2500 rpm will make the noise, but the noise will go away at, say, 3000 rpm, while accelerating. Then again, the same thing can happen at 3200 rpm: accelerating will cause the noise, but up to a point, beyond which the noise goes away.The noise is not present at idle. I can always make the noise heard, just not consistently at the same rpm range.
I ran the engine with one spark plug disconnected at a time: the noise goes away when the #3 cylinder spark is disconnected.
Opinions vary: wrist pin, piston slap, rod bearing, etc.
Any tests I could run to narrow the problem? It has been difficult to pinpoint where the noise is coming from with a stethoscope...
Oil changes have been very regular (3.5K), using Mobil 1. Nevertheless, it has been burning oil.
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I have a 2002 Pontiac Grand AM GT with 151,000 miles (I have had the car for 6,000). I recently just changed the oil with 5w-30 which is the 3rd oil change I have done and have used the same brand and viscosity. It seems the oil is a little overfilled this time (maybe 1/4-1/3 of an extra quart). I noticed a knocking coming from the engine (closer to bottom of engine than top) on a cold start. It sounds like a rock being knocked against a hard surface. I can only hear the knocking if I am outside of the car, if I am in the car I can't hear it at all. The knocking lasts for maybe 20-30 seconds. If I press the accelerator (when in park) the knocking goes away, and if I let off the accelerator then it comes back. I can't really test to see if the knocking persists while driving since I can't hear it from the cab.
I know I should do all the routine maintenance when getting a used car (spark plugs, etc), but I bought from a friend who put spark plugs on maybe 25,000 miles ago.
I read that maybe I should be using different viscosity of oil in the summer (even though the manual says 5w-30 all year, I live in North Central Nebraska)? Is the knocking maybe due to the slightly overfilled oil? Should I try to drain that excess out? Should I just go ahead and replace the spark plugs and wires as well?
I drive ~750 highway miles a month and hope I can get this car to last a few years. So far it seems pretty good, have only had to change the ECT sensor and thermostat on it, suspension bushings still look good. I just never heard this noise before and it kind of freaked me out. I probably would have never heard it but I just happen to start the car and needed to grab something from the garage.
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I was driving this morning after doing a brake job (nothing to do with the problem, just anger coming out) made it about 10 kms and noticed when i took my foot off the accelerator, the heater fan powered down a bit, and back up when I gave it gas...noticed a knocking sound from the engine...pulled into a gas station and put it in park. After a hard time idling, it cut out. I started it again and the idle was not good at all. kept cutting out. Got it going and made it home with the same sort of power issue. Tried to start it a couple times and same issue with the idle. Sputtering quite a bit and noticed quite a bit of exhaust coming out. When I backed it out of the garage, I noticed a small puddle of oil.
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so with the weather turning cooler i have noticed a new noise. i am at 34,000 miles and run synthetic oil ever 4-5k miles.
I hear a rattling/knocking noise when you start engine, not right away, but like after 15 seconds and it lasts about 30 seconds then seems to go away and is quiet again.
Almost sounds like a lifter is tapping due to not getting oil.
I changed the accessory belts a while ago and it did not first make this noise right after but maybe a few days after which coincided going from 80 degree weather down to 40 degree weather.
Could it be an accessory belt being too tight? If so, why wouldn't it make it on startup? I can see it going away as rubber expands as the warms but I would expect it to make the noise from starting till then. Not 15 seconds into running.
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Sonata 2007 3.3L V6 ... I have nearly 70K on my Hyundai, and I am the original owner. Everything was fine until 24 hours ago until I got a knocking noise. I stopped, shut off the engine, and had it towed.
The mechanic says that based on the symptoms (knocking, some white smoke from exhaust) that it is powertrain warranty related, and I should be covered.
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I just purchased a 2010 RX 350, has only 7k miles on it. Really, really nice car. I noticed for the first time yesterday the engine ticking/knocking/rattling/whatever you want to call it sound when starting up on a cold start. It definitely goes away after about 5-10 minutes of running.
Most people seem to accept this as "normal". They hear it, live with it, and they never have any problems. I am a new Lexus owner, so I have trouble digesting that such a luxury vehicle with so few miles would have a "normal" engine knocking sound at 7,000 miles.
A few people posted in other places that this is indeed an issue, and should not be happening. There is a a Toyota (Lexus) service bulletin that I didn't get the details on, it is LSB-0028-09. LEXUS: ENGINE TICKING NOISE AND/OR MIL ON P0014, P0015, P0024, P0025, P0017, OR P0018. ENGINE MECHANICAL. *PE
Looking for details on this service bulletin, and if it does indeed apply to the engine knocking sound.
- Premium gas
- High viscosity cold synthetic oil
- Dealer fixes issue
- Other fix?
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It's a 2006 hyundai sonata LX.
Now Is it anything I should worry about? Car has 72000 on it. Always used synthetic Mobil 1 5w 30.
This is on a completely cold start up, 30 degrees outside. Only makes the noise until car warms up. Anything I can do to prevent this? Or is it not something to worry about? Should I just let the car warm up a little before I drive it?
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I have a 2010 Sonata V6 that I bought new. It has a little less than 50K on it. I tried to start it today and it made a terrible noise then died seconds later. I popped the hood and then started it again and the engine was shaking violently in the engine compartment and making a terrible knocking noise. I had driven it 12 hours earlier and it ran fine. I called a tow truck and had it taken to the dealer but if I know my dealer, since it is Sunday they probably wont get to it until Tuesday. Also, this car has had the signature V6 valve cover leak that has been fixed 3 times. I noticed it was leaking again about a month ago and I have just been checking the oil and adding it as it needs it. I dont think the engine ran out of oil because I checked it before the tow truck came and it was between low and full.
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I bought a new Honda fit Auto couple days ago, while getting ready to go from first job site to 2nd one, I wasn't paying attention (was adjusting the seat), I had my foot on the acceleator instead of brake. Of course, when I start the car, it cranks and follow by a high rev sound from the engine (I think I hold it half way for about 2 seconds) before realize my mistake and lift off the pad. The car was sitting in the parking lot for 4 hours about 5 degree outside (I drove the car for 40 minutes 4 hours ago). I heard cold starting your car while reving it is not a good idea. especially on a new car that needs break it. I am just wondering if this step cause any perm damange to the engine? After couple of days of driving, it sounded fine with no issue (though on the same day, when I arrived at my 2nd work place after that first debacle, the car took 2 cranks to get it start).
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Could not find anything about this on a search. I have 2 Sonatas. An 08 and an 09 both are 4cylinders. The 09 was purchased used in June of this year. With the colder weather setting in I have noticed that the 09 when started from cold jumps to 2500 rpm and settles to around 1000rpm for a short time then slows down a bit more to what I think is the normal idle speed. My 08 never goes that high and settles down to a normal idle quicker. If I read correctly the 08 and 09 have different air metering systems. Is this idle thing normal or am I dealing with an issue?
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The last couple of times I've started the car from a cold start the RPM's fluctuate up and down for about 30 seconds and then it stops.
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is it possible to get the heated seats to come on from a cold start automatically?
If i turned the car off with the seat heaters ON and then used my remote starter; i want them to come on without me having to push the button.
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