Sonata NF (2006-10) :: HIDs Installation - Keep Blowing Fuse
Jul 20, 2013
I tried installing my new DDMTuning 35W 6000K HID headlights with relay harness. No issues until I went to turn the car on and actually power them up. Neither side would work. I checked my power connection, ground, in-line fuse, swapped out the relay, tried without the harness, and nothing worked. I tried putting the stock bulbs back in and I found out they wouldn't turn on either.
I found the issue to be a blown 20 amp fuse in slot 23 (see pic). I replaced it and tried to turn the car on with the HIDs and it blew again. I hooked the stock lights back up and they seem to work fine now with another new fuse. The fuse description says H/LP LO and HID LO LH. Why this fuse is blowing. I am wondering if I just need a higher amperage fuse because of the HID power (in line for harness is 30 amp) or if something else is the culprit. I'm stumped.
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I got in my 2009 Sonata this morning, started it and turned on the headlights. The headlights turned on momentarily and then turned off. The 20 amp headlight fuse blew. I cleaned the battery ground on the fender and the battery terminals. I also cleaned the connection between the battery terminal connector and the negative cable. I put everything back together and installed a new 20 amp fuse. I turned the lights on. They lit momentarily and then, predictably, blew the fuse again. Curiously enough, the "passing lights",which are just the high beams on another position on the headlight switch, still work.
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So I have had HID's on my car since the purchase back in 2007. Until recently, approx 2 months ago, if I turned on my fog lights, my car would stall out. Then about a month ago, my only of my headlights started blinking and it went out. So I decided to replace all the lights with new kits.
So I just purchased 5000K 35w headlight and 25w(only ones they sell) fog lights for my car from HIDExtra. First sets were Xentec.
1. Headlights are H7 slim ballast
2. Fog lights are 881 regular ballast but still slimmer then the original big boys
**No relays**
So the car ran fine with them for about 2 days but if I turn them on while driving the car will stall out. I didn't have this problem before so I am trying to see has something worn out or what?? I didn't have relays before.
So what I went ahead and did was order relays for the fogs and headlights in hoping it would fix the issue. I am waiting for them to come in on Wednesday. Should this fix my issue? I never had them before(maybe I should have had them).
Its like the RPM's drop then engine skips then stalls. Car goes into limp mode and CEL stays on. Turn the car off and back on and limp mode goes away but CEL stays on until I let the car stay off for a while.
Brand new battery from Advance Auto. I thought that was the original problem before getting the lights so battery cannot be the issue. Could it be alternator?? Car runs fine as long as I turn the lights on first then start it up but if I have to turn them on while in motion...stall out.
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I recently installed HID lights in both the low beam and fog/driving lights on my 2008 Sonata Limited. I used relay wiring kits so the HID's pull power straight from the battery. When I turn on the HID's after starting the car, the engine stalls and throws a check engine light with codes P0698 & P2110. Took the car to the dealer and all they really did was verify the codes and clear them claiming it was fixed...NOT!!
If I restart the engine 2-3 times with the HID's off, the check engine light clears itself and if I rev the engine RPM's while turning on the HID's then it's no problem. The HID's otherwise work great..and again the only power they pull from the car's electrical wiring is the signal from the headlight switch wiring that trips the relay to turn the HID's on!! The HID relay wiring kits have inline 20amp fuses between the battery and relays and they are fine, so the HID's can't be pulling that much current.
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I installed some aftermarket HID lights in my 08 passat. I took it to a local shop to have the drls turned off and the bi xenon turned on. All the warnings and bulb out lights went off, the lights fire up perfect. but for some reason now the lights (all of them, rear, dash, parking all come on with the ignition whether or not the lights are switched on or off.
I am sure a code got changed that causes that, but which code would activate all lights all the time? It's not DRls it all lights are on just like you turned the lights on manually.
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Installing some fog light HID's and was wondering how to remove the front bumper.
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My 2006 Azera Limited keeps blowing its backup fuse (10amp) whenever I so much as move an inch in reverse. Moving from P to D (or even past the manual gate) is OK, as long as I don't take my foot off the brake when passing R.
I've so far burned through 4 fuses and still don't know what the problem is.
Here's some history:
The first time this happened yesterday AM, I just replaced the blown b/up fuse with the spare 10amp and the car ran fine the whole day, including several feet of reversing.
The second time this happened was today AM. I ran out of extra fuses, and decided to use the ABS (10amp) fuse instead, to be able to go pick up extra fuses at the local autoparts store. On the drive, I kept seeing check engine and ABS failure messages on the IP, as expected.
After I replaced the 2nd blown fuse, the check engine light came on. I didn't have my code reader with me (it's a funky bluetooth obd reader + android tablet, and i don't always carry the tablet). Had the local gas station look at the codes, and was told of "speed sensor" and a "high-speed controller link" error codes.
Reversed out of the parking spot at the gas station, and the fuse blew again. Twice.
Nothing on the car (other than as described above) has changed in the past several months. I haven't had the car washed for over 6months, but did drive in the rain several weeks ago. There haven't been any other changes at all (I opened the hood up just yesterday after several weeks of not needing to). The car is stock, there haven't been any major modifications (except, I removed an aftermarket nav system and put the stock 6cd radio back, but that was several months ago).
I'm pretty sure there's some sort of electrical fault somewhere, but can't quite figure out what / where.
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Just this morning, my 2006 Azera Limited would not cycle on the A/C. I found that the 10 amp fuse for the A/C solenoid had blown. I replaced the fuse. The A/C worked perfectly, blew ice cold air, for about 15 minutes. Then the fuse blew again. Replaced the fuse again, the compressor clutch kicked and started to turn compressor and fuse blew yet again. Replaced fuse a third time, blew immediately. And now tonight, the dash lighting will not go into "night mode" - will not dim the instrument cluster fully, and the night illumination on controls will not light. Also, randomly, the fog light indicator will not light - even though the fog lights are on and illuminated. Not sure all these things are related, but it seems like some sort of major failure is occurring somewhere. I looked for shorted or burnt wiring under the hood, couldn't find any. Other than taking the car to Hyundai and paying two arms and a leg? I have seen posts for other Hyundai models where the compressor wiring shorts against the compressor - but so snug down there I haven't been able to check it properly yet. Also, another post suggested the clutch coil may be bad? But if it was, would it kick in and run properly for 15 minutes? I'm mechanically inclined, have done a lot of work myself on cars for over 20 years, but this one stumps me...
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Yesterday My wife's 2010 Elantra needed a jump start, I had Accidentally connected the Jumper cables up incorrectly. I corrected the issue and the vehicle runs fine now. however the AUDIO fuse in the interior, which controls the radio and any alert Dings keeps blowing. Its a 15A fuse. I replaced it yesterday with a brand new fuse and it worked when tested the first time. this morning however it is now not working again and the fuse is again blown. do I just replace it with another fuse? is there something else I can check? will a 20A fuse work better?
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In an attempt to install HIDs on my 2013 f150 screw 4x4 I hated them and I broke my truck. I blew a fuse for the left headlight which I replaced.
My battery now reads 11.9v, I have no dash or radio lights and my truck won't even attempt to start. I can't exit park either. My door locks inside the vehicle work but my remote is useless. My headlights and dome lights work but that's it light wise.
Is my battery just too low and needs to be "reset"? If not my battery does it sound like a main relay or the body control module or similar?
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My left side blinkers keeps Blowing the fuse, I replaced ir 3 times already. First I thought it was the light bulb but my whole left side (driver side) blinkers were out except the one on the side mirror. Is there a relay for the blinkers somewhere that might be bad or something else?
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Car is a 2002 b5.5 1.8t sedan.
Bought the DDM Tuning HIDs, 3500k 35w for the fogs, installed with no problems. Also ordered the 5000k 35w for the low beams. Installed them, they flickered on for a second, then nothing. Let the ballasts charge for a while but still nothing. Called DDM, they said my car needs a error code eliminator kit thing later they were at my doorstep. Plugged one side in, flicked on then nothing. Thought both sides might need the code eliminators plugged in...wrong. both flickered on, and then nothing. Tried again, no flicker, both low beam fuses burned. Plugged the regular bulbs in, changed the fuses, lights working again.
I don't know much about electrical, but DDM said i def don't need a relay kit. Do I need a relay kit? Or would putting higher amperage fuses in the place of the original ones work? if so what amperage?
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What difficulties might I run into on switching in the HO alternator. Is it that hard to get the stock alt out/putting the serpentine belt back on once i get the HO alt in?
Any pictures or videos to make this job easier? The stock alt almost looks impossible to get out unless i remove the entire radiator.. Should I just bring it to a shop and have them install it?
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My 2006 f-250 just started blowing the #22 fuse when i go over a bump! Where the wire harness is for this. I've checked all the harnesses I could locate that looked like they could be rubbing on something.
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I have a 2006 f350 king ranch 4x4, I recently used 4 wheel drive and could not disengage it, it would go into 4 low but would not go back to 4 high or 2 wheel drive, I unplugged the actuator harness and applied 12 volts to the terminals and it disengaged, I reversed the power and it engages, the actuator seems to work properly, I then replaced the two relays located by themselves on the front fender driver side, when I try to install the 30 amp female fuse located in the outside fuse panel rear driver side, fuse #3 for 4x4 shift on the fly it blows immediately, it makes no difference if the harness is plugged into the actuator or not, if I remove the two relays then I can install the 30 amp fuse, but as soon as I try to install the relays it blows the fuse again..
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I have a 06 Mercury Mariner and this past week fuse #26 keeps blowing turning the HVAC blower motor off. I replaced the blower motor since i had one already in the garage and same thing is happening. The AC will run for awhile and in about 10/15 mins the fuse will blow. Fuse #26 is the Climate control system mode switch, are these known to go bad? Is this the part I should replace or look for other problems IE compressor?
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Anyways I have a 2006 F350 6.0 and a couple weeks ago I have been having issues with my running lights. In the fuse box under the dash fuse location 17 blows as soon as I insert the fuse leaving me with a short somewhere, no instrument cluster lights (but the instrument cluster gauges work and operate fine), and no running lights on the truck. I have been looking for hours and days and can't seem to locate this short (which I am assuming it is).
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The fuel pump fuse keeps blowing intermittently. I would assume it's a wire grounding out somewhere but I can't seem to find one yet. I do have a faulty purge solenoid on the canister but I don't think that would cause this. The reset switch doesn't seem to be tripped either.
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Every time I replace the ac fuse it blows again sometimes immediately or later it never last more than a day.
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I have a 2007 3.3 litre Sonata and just recently heard a buzzing sound coming from what I think is the fuse box area. When in park and neutral (buzz) .... drive and reverse - no buzz.
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I noticed going up hill when the RPM's hit around 2100 RPM this morning it looked like my HID's went into a strobe type pulse. They stayed on but got brighter every partial second. Even from a stop if I accelerated with more than 2k RPM the lights flickered.
It's done it for two days, which happened to be in the single digits tempature wise. Do you think it's my alternator or my battery having the issues? Car is a 2012 so I'm leaning more toward battery load issues.
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