Got Engine Code P0022. Listed several things, Cam Position Indicator (replaced it) and CVVT Oil Control Valve Bank 2. Dealer calls them "front" and "rear". Is Bank 2 the rear (Black or gray also).
View 1 RepliesDriving around today my cel flashed on. Checked my programmer its saying P0022 intake camshaft position timing-over-retarded bank 2. What is the culprit?
View 2 RepliesMy car just turned 85k miles. The day it turned 85k, I recieved a message from dealer saying their records indicate car is due for 85k service. Coincidence? Note: I do not have my service done at the local toyota shop. They have not seen car since last warranty work probably 2+ years ago.
Also at about this same time, the service engine light came on, (oil change needed). Since I only use mobil 1 in the car with genuine Toyota filters, I am not to concerned if the car gets another 500 miles on it while scheduling a service. However, this time, returning from a short trip on Sunday, the VSR (traction control) and the check engine light came on. Only Code is p0015 left bank. Monday, warning lights are gone, and oil change is scheduled for Wednesday.
Is the VSR and the P0015 related.
I have a 2006 Chevy Trailblazer LS/LT 4.2 liter 2wd. I have been trying to get it smoged, but can't clear the code. P0171 - Lean Bank 1.
I've been having a parts throwing contest with it, but it has been winning and my wallet is losing.
I have changed the air filter, cleaned the MAF sensor, changed both O2 sensors, changed the secondary air valve and relay. I've done the carb cleaner spray test around the intake and vacuum lines, with no spikes in RPM.
Most recent try was a couple bottles of Techron concentrate with premium chevron gas.(still waiting to see if the code hits again)
Next steps are checking the intake bolts(to see if they are torqued) and intake gaskets, check for exhaust leaks at the exhaust manifold, and checking the MAP sensor.
Freeze frame data from the most recent hit on the code is below.
***Fuel system 1 - CL***Fuel system 2 - NA***Calc Load(%) - 30.2***ECT(deg c) - 48***STFT B1(%) - 3.9***LTFT B1(%) - 22.7***MAP(kPa) - 33***Eng RPM - 809***Veh speed(km/h) - 0***Spark Adv (deg) - 10.5***IAT(deg c) - 20***MAF (G/s) - 5.82***TPS(%) - 15.3***Air status - NA.
I have a 2006 Kia Spectra with 74K miles. It was apparently neglected before I bought it (at 55K miles), and has a case of engine sludge. It's clogging my oil control valve, and a couple engine flushes (by Kia dealer) over the last year have failed to correct the problem thus far. The car runs ok, but cannot pass an emissions test due to the check engine light and corresponding codes. Can I perform the flushes myself? What product should I use? Can I safely remove and clean the OCV myself? What product should I use?
View 19 RepliesI have a 2006 sonata gl that's recently had an engine/transmission swap out of a 2007 sonata gls both 2.4L and auto. My car does not have ABS but the donor car did (from what i ready on other threads that important!). Now only a few days after the swap, i am getting a P2159 code (which i believe is for the vehicle speed sensor) and the cruise control doesn't work. Other than that the transmission shifts smooth and every thing else works good, including the speedometer (shouldn't it be off if the VSS is bad?).
View 1 RepliesCEL came on after a couple of driving cycles showing code P0456 (evap emission control system very small leak detected)............. car drives fine has good gas mileage.....
View 13 RepliesThe check engine light came on yesterday. 2004 with 115K. Auto Zone read the codes and they are as follows:
Definition:
Idle Air Control Valve control circuit.
Probable Cause:
Open or short circuit condition.
Poor Electrical Connection
Failed IAC motor
My check engine light was going on and off, then stayed on. Took to dealer, said it was fluid control valve. Replaced at a cost of $544. (Still smarting from sticker shock.) Now, the heat does not work in my car and last night the Master Warning Light went on, as did the light for high coolant temp. warning. These flashed on then off. Hasn't happened again.
Questions: Should I be worried if the lights only flashed briefly before going away? Is it likely the replacement and lack of heat are connected?
P0420 bank 1 code popped up while driving. Im thinking this is just an oxygen sensor? Is it ok to drive with this code for a while if i buy an o2 sensor online?
View 5 Repliesi have a 2005 Toyota Prius that the air conditioner wont work in. it has Freon in it the compressor wont kick so I did some research and my cooling fans aren't kicking on so I did a by pass test and the cooling fans motor is good they just wont kick on. I just replaced my 2 cooling fan relays and they still wont kick on. the check engine light was on in the car when I got it. it throws the code P1121 coolant valve control. I got the part just got to get it put on. Could this part stop my cooling fans from kicking on or my ac compressor from coming on.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2006 Subaru Forester with 95,000 miles on it. Earlier today the CEL (solid) and cruise (flashing) came on while I was driving. I believe it may have occurred as I was accelerating up hill. I filled up yesterday, so I tightened the gas cap when I stopped. On my way home, I stopped by my mechanic and they read the code; P0420 Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold Bank was the code that was read. They reset the code for me but told me that the catalytic converter is what needs to be replaced.
My question: Could the light coming on be incidental (i.e., is it possible that it was a "blip" and my catalytic converter is okay?)? My mechanic said he thinks it is, and that my car should last me quite a bit longer. I am asking because I've put in a bit of money into the car of late and I'm wondering if I should just jump ship. I should say that the majority of the repairs are maintenance (e.g., brakes, tires).
I have a 2006 VW Jetta with 92K miles and just a couple of days ago my check engine late came on and when i took to an auto store to check the code, it came as P0332, Knock sensor 2 in bank 2 is faulty. Three things have happened all around the same time and I am not sure if they are related and are just coincidence.1.Check engine light came on.2. I have noticed after that, my car RPM has dropped, idles at about 600-700RPM and when trying to accelerate, it tops at 3000 RPM and feels like the motor cuts off at that point and I have to step off the gas and the car runs ok again, but cant go over 3000.
Had trouble getting on the interstate due to this and thought the car was going to stall, but it didn't. just had to back off the gas and let it run, It did go up to the speed that I wanted, but seems like it wont go past the 3000 RPM point.3. My fuel gauge, drops to empty when it reaches the half way mark on the meter. It stays at the correct level when I start and keep the car in idle, but when I start moving, it drops to empty. When I fill up the tank, it goes all the way to F, and after the car goes the usually of about 190-210 miles, when It reaches the half full level, the meter drops to zero, so have been using my trip odometer to drive after that.
I need the PCM pinout for a 2002 F150 4.6 For the Purge Control Valve Circuit. If possible the wire schematic would be nice also. Getting code PO443 (( hard code )) I have checked battery voltage at valve connector with key on (( 12.2 volts )) valve resistance is at be 35 ohms so I'm thinking I may have a bad wire or a bad PCM .
View 2 RepliesMy 2004 V8 touareg is throwing CEL code P0022. 'A' Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Retarded (Bank 2)
What would cause this? I found that these all could be related:
- Valve timing
- OCV
- Camshaft timing gear assy
- ECM
Would any of these cause it to burn oil more quickly? What steps are taken to diagnose the whole problem?
The check engine light on my '05 Prius has gone on and off a couple of times and is giving me a P1121 code, which I found out means "Coolant Flow Control Valve Position Sensor Stuck". Does this have anything to do with the hybrid electric coolant pump that was replaced under recall a while back?
View 5 RepliesIt's been a long week for me and my 2007 Prius. Brought it to the dealer after receiving my first ever CEL. I have 222,000 miles on the vehicle. The a/c was also blowing warm when the CEL came on. They checked that and told me that the compressor was "breaking up." Then they call me back to tell me that my 12V battery died. They asked me if I had problems with starting the vehicle. I said never. Never had any issues with the car in 222,000 miles.
Well, told them to replace the battery (no choice) and the car is 5.5 years old in Florida heat so it was ready to die. Very suspicious that it died while they had the vehicle, but what can I say. Told them to not repair the coolant flow valve or the a/c until I could investigate further on my own. CEL is now off. The a/c is blowing cool again.
I have this sensor unplugged. Is there a way to defeat this sensor so I don't pull this code?
View 3 RepliesMy 06 accent GLS has become difficult to start only after refueling, which I'm guessing is related to a bad purge control valve from what I've read. Where exactly is the valve located, and is this something that someone with relatively little automotive repair experience could do on their own? I think I've located it on the backside of the engine near the air intake.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2009 Sonata (base model) with about 60,400 miles (just out of warranty). My check engine light came on, I drove for about 25 miles or so and it went away. I still took it to a shop to get the code reading, it came back as "P0449 - EVAP Vent Valve Solenoid Circuit". Guy at the shop told me I can continue to drive without any issues but I should get it checked with a dealer. The engine check light is not on anymore.
I took it the dealer and they told me they will charge me $145 to run another diagnostic (they can not use the one I have from Auto Zone). And then on top of that, whatever they need to do, they will charge for that. And since I am out of warranty (barely) I will have to pay out of my pocket.
I have check engine light comes on first and after driving a few hundred miles later, light goes off. I drive the car for awhile about a few hundred miles and light comes on again. Basically on an off. AutoZone looked at it and got an error P2273 - it means oxygen sensor stuck rich. They told me to keep fuel tank cap tight. or something else may be defective. I have been driving last two years like this having engine light on and off. I do not see any engine performance difference.
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