Isn't it suppose to automatically stop? Every time I pump gas at any station gas will shoot out right when it tops off. What could be the reason for this?
View 4 RepliesWindows just started fogging up over here in New York. So I went to turn on the deforst and I noticed that ten minutes went by and it didn't defrost the rear window whatsoever.
Seems like power is going to it because when I hit the defrost button the rpm shoots down for a second. I also checked the fuse and it's fine. The thing that's getting to me is I had my windows tinted a couple months back and I'm thinking they might of done something.
I purchased a second used 2006 GS300 from an ex colleague.
I've put about 5,000KM on the car, it currently has 195,000KM.
The car is/was mechanically great, until this week when I had some cooling issues..
First sign of problems was when I noticed steam bubbles in the expansion tank after the engine was turned off. I was actually filling up with oil as the oil warning light came on - 2nd time in 5000km but I guess that's normal for a car of this performance, size and age. I hadn't noticed overheating sings at this point but I remember fans being generally noisy (In SA it's in the height of summer so I didn't think much of it).
Temperature seems to be rock solid in the middle of the gauge, something I noticed as it gets very hot here and traffic is sometimes quite bad.
The next day I had been driving about 15 minutes on the motorway and I noticed the temperature gauge was suddenly in the red. I pulled over, noticed expansion was empty and filled. Decided to carry on another 5 mins as I had 2 small kids in the car and it's not a safe place to be (side of the motorway).
I finally found the radiator cap after I was recovered home and filled up with water (appeared to be very empty).
Next day little loss in expansion tank, low miles driven.
Next day needed to drive out a little further, about 50KM later the temp gauge started flipping hot then in the middle, hot then middle and then the engine warning light came on and the stability control light came on!
I was carrying water so filled up quite a lot of water again and the car started up perfectly and I returned home.
Since then I've been trying to investigate the problem, I will bullet point finding...
no obvious leaks
no oil in water / water in oil
no apparent general overheating (except the 2 times with water loss)
AC and heating working perfectly
no performance loss
driving lightly, up to temp no steam bubbles in tank w/ engine off
driving heavy at working temp leads to steam bubbles even when off
replaced radiator cap - no change
Radiator cap off and engine running cold, small water movement with a light sucking/bubbling - seems like air is sucked in every 10 seconds or so (very small volume of air into a tine whirlpool then air bubbles back). This I paid attention to, it settled down when engine heated up. Revving engine shoots water out of radiator - noticed when trying to get temperature up, I believe this is just the pump spinning up and normal.
I have a 2008 Prius and my car consistently tops out just under 40 MPG - I've never had a tank last over 325 miles. Seems like it's somewhat below the average.
View 8 RepliesMy power window on the driver side works. But tops at 3/4 way down. Ivan repulse the button several times to get it all the way down and occasionally it will work on the auto down. But rarely. What's wrong. Probably switch. .. ..
View 8 RepliesI believe I am having spooling issues with my 2000 f250 7.3 automatic truck. I now am running a 67mm billet compressor wheel with a 1.00ar turbine housing and high flow outlet so basically a thrust bearing 38r . I'm running oem sticks and PHP tunes on my hydra. On the 140 tune egts top out at 1200* uphill. So egts are not a problem. Boost tops out at 29-30 psi and 1-3 down the interstate. I see a lot of trucks that can hit 20+ psi in second by just squashing the skinny petal and I could also do this with my oem turbo. Mine takes awhile to get psi up like I said it will hit 30 if I'm petal to the carpet for a few and get going but I feel like it's not spooling as quickly as it "should ".
I completely built this turbo with new parts nothing was reused down to the heat shield behind the turbine wheel inside the turbine housing. I used all American And Canadian built parts . 360 thrust and a banks 1.00 turbine housing. When I bought the turbine shaft and compressor wheel it stated that they where pre balanced and I could clearly see the balancing marks on both but the shaft and compressor wheel are from two different manufacturers so there was no way to be sure that everything would align and be balanced. Basically my question is do you think it would to be wise to have the assembly balanced? Could this be the reason the turbo doesn't spool as fast as my oem gtp38 did . I've been running the turbo for four months now .
I have an 02 explorer xlt with tan interior. The tops of the door panels are kinda worn dried and faded. Any good quality paint/ dye I can get to repaint these and what the actual color is?
View 3 RepliesI like to keep my RPM at 2K while driving on the highway and always drive 62-63 mph. But when there is a slope the rpm instantly changes to 2.5K or higher. At first I thought it was downshifting. But when I slid the clutch to the right I still saw it was at the 6th gear. If I need to bring the RPM back to 2K the speed has to be reduced to around 45 mph which is not safe. I wouldn't mind the higher RPM for short stretches except the horrible ride noise (like a sports car). The surprising thing is the behavior is not consistent. Sometimes it keeps the lower rpm even on an incline. Is this the natural behavior of this car) none of my previous cars with bigger cylinders used to do this).
View 13 RepliesSo my sister bought a 2007 Camry last year since she was impressed with the reliability of the 3rd gen Camrys we've been driving for the last decade. It's been a good car for the last six months but she's on the verge of selling it because of sudden transmission issues on top of the oil consumption problems that seem to be commonplace with this generation of 2.4L.
She says that her tach sometimes shoots up to about 3200 RPM when she taps the brakes going downhill and occasionally it feels like she's hitting pools of water on the highway. She also described hesitation followed by an extremely hard shift when braking more suddenly, such as avoiding people turning in front of her.
Vehicle : 2005 Five Hundred (220,000 miles)
Symptom : Car surges (lurches or RPM shoots up to 1500-2000) when outside temperature is 75+ F and ONLY when A/C is on. In addition, when outside temp 80+F, A/C occasionally not as cool, and engine temp goes to HOT (nearly overheating. Shutting off A/C gets engine temp back to normal and surging issue goes away. Less frequently, car's RPM drops to nearly stalling and on a couple occasions the car actually stalled. Symptoms began around 100,000 miles. Lastly, this happens ONLY when at idle (usually in gear) or when coming to a stop or driving slowly, like in a parking lot.
Corrective steps taken to date: - Throttle body cleaned by dealer mechanic (I'm not 100% sure it was a thorough job.) - Thermostat changed. - A/C recharged. - Belts & fans checked - OK. - Engine computer reset (?) - battery disconnected by mechanic for 30+ minutes to "reset" computer.
This has been going on for at least 3 years now. I've been to my Ford dealer and an independent mechanic's shop numerous times for this. The dealer was never able to reproduce the problem. The other mechanic finally experienced the surging. Oddly enough, after each visit to the shop, the car seems fine for the day and then the symptoms begin to return in full force!
My lovely little 99 Forester was running fine up until about 6 weeks ago. Now it has always burned oil and my dealership gave the the run around saying it was "normal". Fine, so I've driven around with quarts of oil in my car for the last 8 years, and I dump a quart in every 500 miles. Every time I bring it into for oil changes them I've told them it burns oil.So 6 weeks ago, I start the car and no heat. The temp gauge shoots up to H and then the heat kicks on and the temp gauge goes immediately back down to N. I call the dealership - they say the thermostat is sticking and I'm find to drive it - I get an appt for 2 weeks later.
2 weeks later, car is in the shop and I'm told because I've been driving the car and its been overheating the headgasket is cracked. So I pay the $1,700 to repair it and replace the timing belt and temp gauge.I pick up the car and it is running WORSE than it was when I brought it in with the cracked headgasket and sticking temperature gauge. I call the dealership from the traffic signal up the road. They schedule another appt for a week later.
Week later I bring the car in and the oil light blinks on as I'm driving car into their driveway. Get a call the next day saying I need a new shortblock and it will be $3,000.I meet with dealership and tell them 1) they should have checked the engine/cylinders when they replaced the headgasket and 2) I'm not repaying them to do the headgaskets twice basically.
So they tell me they are crediting me for the headgasket repair job. And get this - the price is $3,000. It actually is $5,000, but they are crediting the headgasket repair job to that.I'm just disguisted and furious at this point. Car has 140,000 miles, and I'm really anal about changing the oil every 3,000 miles - despite the fact since 12,000 miles the car has been having 6 new quarts of oil dumped into it between changes.They are telling me "its my fault" the cylinders are bad because I allowed the engine to run repeatedly overheated.
Just purchased a beautiful 2007 ES 350. Love it but when I start it first thing in the morning, the idles shoots to 1800 for a second then up to 2000 for about 10 seconds then slowly comes down to 600ish. Also, during this "1800 and 2000" time, the oil maintenance light comes for a few seconds. Oil was changed just prior to purchase. Car has 100k and rides immaculate- 25.5 mpg mixed.
View 4 RepliesWith summer heating up so is the engine. Temp stays normal at freeway speeds but as soon as I hit stop and go traffic it shoots up. Water pump is two years old. I flushed the radiator and didn't get much gunk out. Both fans are running when the AC is on. If I shut the car off but leave the key on the fans do not run when the car is not. I can't remember if they used to or not.
2001 Pontiac Grand Prix 3.1
I've switched the fuel pump on this car more than once and made sure the fuel line isn't crimped yet it still hesitates. Also, the temp. shoots up when idling and appears to need either a fan or temp. switch?
View 4 RepliesHere's the situation -- 2009 Camry, 32,000 mi. No recalls on record for its VIN. Parked in parking lot and preparing to leave. NOTE: At no time does my foot touch the gas pedal. OK...Foot on brake. Start engine, shift to reverse and back up under idle power. Turn wheel to align for departure and stop. Foot still on brake; shift into drive. Uncommanded (by me) engine RPM shoots up! Now hard on brake to stop forward lurch while simultaneously shifting to neutral. Engine RPM now screaming. Shut off ignition. Again, no touching of gas petal in this whole process. Turn the car back on and all it normal All has been normal for a month. Can't get the incident to repeat. No "check engine" lights at any time. Car operates perfectly.
View 3 RepliesSo i start my car up drive about fifty feet and my temp gauge shoots all the way up, check engine light comes on and coolant light keeps going off......What is wrong with my car?
View 8 Replies2007 Honda Odyssey. 105,000. Temperature about 0. 6 hour drive. About 15 minutes from destination, no heat, car starts blowing cold air. Temperature gauge still registers in normal range. Arrive at destination. Later that night, drove about 15 minutes to local ER, and drove back from ER about 2 hours later. No heat, but car otherwise fine. Next day (happened to be Christmas Day), begin drive home. Drive a little more than 15 minutes (about a minute passed the hospital), stopped at a stop light. Car stalls and dies. Restarts, but immediately temperature gauge shoots way paste "H" in a bad way.
Over the next day, local mechanic (in Petoskey MI) checks car, says it is low two gallons of coolant. He says radiator leaks, but he has no radiators there. Everything else works fine, and he says it is safe to drive back to Chicago, as long as I stop to check coolant. Drive home to Chicago, no leakage. Everything works fine. Get home, take car to local Honda dealer. They do "pressure test." Find no leak. Head Gaskets are fine. They see evidence of massive coolant leak (dried coolant all over catalytic converter closest to radiator, and over lower portion of radiator) but find no leak, and coolant level is fine. No sign of any leaks at top of radiator. So, what gives? Car is since running fine, no leaks. Everything works. Still driving in extreme weather in Chicago. Coolant level normal.
1998 f150 4.6 4x4 auto 180k .... Runs 100% other than a strange and inconsistent overheating issue.
On cold startup truck will warm up. Then the temp gauge drops to practically 0. After 15-20 seconds gauge shoots up to max and then falls back to normal after 15-20 seconds. Then it'll go back to driving normally. At some point it pukes.
My F250 with V10 has developed an overheating problem. While driving, the temp gauge suddenly shoots to max, and the truck goes into limp mode. Turning off the truck and ignition, waiting a few minutes, and all seems to be well again - sometimes for only a minute, sometimes for several days. No steam leaking, the water in the reservoir seems to be normal temperature, the radiator is not overly hot, and the AC keeps on blowing ice cold. Me thinks it is not really overheating, it just thinks it is. So where to start? Change the temp sensor first, or the thermostat? It seems the hoses are fairly firm, I don't believe they are collapsing from suction.
View 14 Replies2006 sonata gl with 4-cyl engine. Car runs/feels fine. Installed HID kit a while ago (with harness) and no problem. Driving home late afternoon (with AC on hi) stopped on red light. Radio was on but NO HID lights on - then momentarily car stalls. Starts back up right a way and NO check engine light. Tried AC- works fine, turn the lights on (HID 35w slim balast), radio on - everything is fine.
My "suspect" is old battery (original!) and I think that for a short moment charging system (alternator) could not keep up/charge battery while car was idling with AC and radio on (hi load).
How long is original battery good for (5-6-...yrs)? Looked earlier at Everstart batteries (or was it Eveready brand?) made by Johnson. I could only find a few batteries but they were sitting on the shelf since last summer (sticker said made 07/2010 !). Are they any good?
Usually in the morning after starting the car, when I put the car into reverse the car stalls. I start it up again and it works fine. It has been doing this for a few months. When I went to get oil change they said I needed to replace battery so I did. Problem is still there. It has done this twice when I try to take off from a red light. I have no check engine lights either. My car has 105,000 miles but cannot really afford to buy a new car at the moment.
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